NEW VITAMIN C FACIAL SERUMS I LOVE BUT YOU’VE PROBABLY NEVER HEARD OF! - BEST BRIGHTENING SERUMS FOR FACE
Week three of our Coronavirus semi-lockdown in New York City and it feels like week 103.
I’ve spent the time both productively and unproductively — refining my recipe for lemon cookies and bingeing on very bad TV. I’m mortified to say that I finished the entire Netflix series Love is Blind and it made me feel dumber. Like huh, corona shmona.
But, I’ve certainly mastered “coronavirus chic” roaming Fort Greene Park in search of freedom from all the monotony.
Not only have I been staring at the walls, I’ve been staring at the yoga mat — yes, the new yoga mat I bought to get some more exercise going. So far, no success. It’s not like I’m in any hurry.
Focus, focus…this is a blog about skin care.
And a blog article about one of my favorite skincare topics: Vitamin C serums! Last fall, I wrote about my top Vitamin C product picks of the year in an article titled, The Year’s Best Vitamin C Serums with The Ordinary, Clinique, Beauty Stat & More! If you missed it, you can catch it here. The five Vitamin C products I reviewed were quite simply the best of the best.
In the weeks since, I’ve had my eye out for what’s new, what’s next, and what’s extraordinary in the world of Vitamin C. One of the most notable exceptions is the dearth of dedicated Vitamin C products from the world of K-beauty. I’m excited to have the opportunity to share that I’ve finally discovered one! And I couldn’t imagine a better brand to bring it to market than my clean Korean skincare fave, Purito. After all, who’s the world’s biggest #puritofanboy?!
Among the five new picks, there are two Vitamin C serums from brands that are relatively new to me, Skin Deva and Allies of Skin — both of which I discovered at the beginning of this year. Allies of Skin is particularly interesting with some really intriguing and innovative products. It doesn’t hurt, either, that I’m obsessed with their super edgy, modern, masculine packaging.
One product has literally blown me away — and is the benchmark for what a great Vitamin C serum should look like IMO. It’s the Ghost Democracy Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum. The formula’s velvety, dry oil texture took my breath away. You may recall that I introduced Ghost Democracy three weeks ago in my article, Dry Skin and Three of The Best Facial Oils I Think You’d Love, Too! I’m super excited about this brand.
Lastly, comes a new Vitamin C moisturizer from one of my fave brand discoveries of 2019, The Glow Maker. In fact, if you’re here for the giveaway, you can see the details at the bottom of the page!
With that, let’s take a look at the best of the Vitamin C newness to kick off 2020…
Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C Collagen Rebuilding Serum
Naturally, the first thing that stands out about the Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C Collagen Rebuilding Serum is that thirty-five percent claim. AOS heralds it as “the world’s first waterless 35% Vitamin C serum.”
Honestly, I can’t dispute that. While I’m not 100% certain that it’s the most potent in the world, I do know that it’s the highest concentration of Vitamin C I’ve ever seen. The brand has apparently achieved that level of Vitamin C by combining two of the most potent forms of the substance — 25% Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid and 10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
The next thing that stands out to me about the 35% Vitamin C Collagen Rebuilding Serum is the formula INCI. There are just ten ingredients in the waterless formula. I love that. Sometimes in life, the simpler, the better. That’s as true for skin care as it is for lemon cookies.
What’s notable is that more than 50% of the Allies of Skin formula is powered by highly effective, potent antioxidants, including the two stable forms of Vitamin C as well as Glutathione and Superoxide Dismutase — an enzyme that helps break down harmful oxygen molecules in skin cells for an anti-oxidant benefit.
According to my skincare muse, Paula Begoun, Glutathione is especially noteworthy. It’s a “powerful, non-enzymatic antioxidant which naturally occurs in the skin where it serves to help defend it against the visible effects of environmental damage. The gradual decline of the natural supply of glutathione in the body is believed to be a key marker of many outward signs of aging.”
Go figure.
I’ve spoken about the special nature of Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid numerous times, most notably in discussions of The Ordinary’s Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution. In short, Ethylated Ascorbic Acid performs in similar fashion to pure Ascorbic Acid and is close in molecular weight to actual Vitamin C.
Ethylated Ascorbic Acid is, I believe, the most stable form of Vitamin C used in skin care and was thus an excellent choice for the chemists at Allies of Skin. Why every brand doesn’t make the same choice is beyond me.
That said, Ethylated Ascorbic Acid is oil-soluble and while I prefer oil-based Vitamin C serums, there are certainly terrific water-based serums — including one of my all-time favorites, the Clinique Fresh Pressed Daily Booster with Pure Vitamin C 10%.
The texture of the 35% Vitamin C Collagen Rebuilding Serum is actually very similar to the vastly more affordable Ordinary option — that of a light, dry oil that absorbs fully into the skin’s surface in about 30 seconds.
Allies of Skin says the “formula repairs on a cellular level, and forms a protective shield against photoaging damage and pollutants while paving the way for brighter, firmer skin. Over time, collagen production is boosted; dark spots are cleared, and skin glows with a brilliant smoothness.”
While that is certainly true of Vitamin C, all of this begs the question:
Do you need a 35% concentration of Vitamin C to maintain skin health?
Perhaps that’s the reason there aren’t any out there. Thirty-five percent is a lot. A helluva lot. I love Vitamin C like I love cupcakes. But do I need three cupcakes, or is just one cupcake enough? (Sorry, I’m apparently missing cupcakes during the quarantine.)
Oh, one more thing. Allies of Skin’s 35% Vitamin C Collagen Rebuilding Serum won the 2019 “Best Wrinkle Preventing Serum” at the CLEO Beauty Hall of Fame.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C Collagen for $118 here.
**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF THE FIVE NEW VITAMIN C SERUMS I LOVE BUT YOU’VE PROBABLY NEVER HEARD OF!…ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
Purito Pure Vitamin C Serum
Yes, I’m the world’s biggest #puritofanboy, having reviewed upwards of a dozen products from the clean Korean skincare brand.
Among my many favorites are the Purito From Green Cleansing Oil which, you may recall, played the crucial role of cleanser in my Complete Green Skincare Routine last fall.
I’m also quite fond of Purito’s Niacinamide serum, the Galacto Niacin 97 Power Essence — one of the most well-formulated, and well-rounded Niacinamide products available; and right up there with the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster, though it’s not nearly as potent as Paula’s OG serum.
As I alluded to earlier, Purito’s Pure Vitamin C Serum is literally the first-ever dedicated Vitamin C serum from a Korean skincare brand. That’s not to take anything away from the COSRX Triple C Lightning Liquid, but that formula was developed by the US-based K-beauty emporium Soko Glam exclusively for the US market.
Purito’s option isn’t the Vitamin C powerhouse that the Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C is — with a conservative concentration of 5% Vitamin C. Not all skins need massive quantities of any specific substance and higher percentages aren’t always essential. What is essential is balance and feeding your skin what it needs to stay healthy. I know many people who simply cannot and do not use Vitamin C because their skin doesn’t tolerate it well.
Guess what! Purito’s Pure Vitamin C Serum may be the ideal option for you if you’re one of those people.
A deep dive into the INCI of the clean, natural formula and the first thing that stands out is ingredient number one — Sodium Hyaluronate liquid. I assume that’s simply a blend of the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid and, well, water. Interesting though. And, according to Purito, it comprises 84% of the formula.
What’s left of the remaining 11%? Niacinamide, an Amino Acid or two and a slew of pro-skin health, antioxidant botanical extracts including Apple Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract and even Broccoli Extract, something you don’t often see in a skincare INCI.
The texture is something of a watery, lightweight gel due to the high content of the aforementioned Sodium Hyaluronate liquid. It’s lovely though. The one drawback to the formula is the intense, unappealing odor it gives off. It’s not off-putting to me, but I imagine many would find it so.
That’s par for the course if you’re looking for a 100% natural, fragrance-free and fragrant plant oil-free Vitamin C treatment. This stuff definitely doesn’t smell like a crisp burst of orange!
SHOP THE BLOG: You can purchase the Purito Pure Vitamin C Serum for $18.90 here — and have some money to spare for cupcakes.
Skin Deva 20% Vitamin C+ E + Ferulic Acid Serum
Speaking of well-formulated, water-based Vitamin C serums that are a delight to use, permit me to introduce you to Skin Deva. I first came across Skin Deva through my DMs on my IG page. The brand reached out to me and after carefully poring over their formulas, I was like hell yeah!
I don’t know much about the brand, but what I’ve seen and experienced so far is promising. Skin Deva offers numerous clinical-grade serums at relatively reasonable prices ranging from $20-$35.
From the brand,
“It all started with an endeavor to use only natural ingredients for taking care of our skin. SkinDeva was formed with the vision of giving people the chance to save their skin from the abuse of chemicals and let it breathe the natural elements and look and feel beautiful. With time, the vision took a concrete shape and Skin Deva became one of the leading brands of skincare products that depended on natural ingredients only.”
I’ve been playing around with two Skin Deva products the last few weeks, including the 20% Vitamin C + E + Ferulic Acid Serum and 20% Argireline + Matrixyl 3000™ + Hyaluronic Acid Serum — which I use around my eyes before moisturizer both AM and PM. It’s good stuff!
The Skin Deva 20% Vitamin C+ E + Ferulic Acid Serum is also good stuff. Again, a tight formulation, with just 11 ingredients in all.
Skin Deva’s chemist followed the rules with this formula for maintaining optimum stability.
Paired with pure Vitamin C, L- Ascorbic Acid, is Ferulic Acid, which I joke is Vitamin C’s BFF. Ferulic Acid is a potent antioxidant that has the remarkable ability to prevent oxidation and keep Vitamin C from freaking out. (I could use a little of that in my life right now!)
The 20% Vitamin C+ E + Ferulic Acid Serum is a slightly oily, watery serum that’s quite easily layered. And, remarkably it’s just $24.99 on the brand’s website. I’d venture to say it’s a legit dupe for a certain $166 cult classic. But that’s just me.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Skin Deva 20% Vitamin C+ E + Ferulic Acid Serum for $24.99 here.
Saturday, April 4th is National Vitamin C Day!
SkinCeuticals founded National Vitamin C Day to celebrate the research and proven benefits of vitamin C. The research of Dr. Sheldon Pinnell, founding scientist of SkinCeuticals, established the parameters for effective vitamin C antioxidant delivery to the skin, allowing SkinCeuticals to pioneer the emergence of cosmeceuticals.
The Registrar at National Day Calendar proclaimed the day to be observed on April 4th annually. - National Day Registry
Ghost Democracy Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum
How much do I love the name Ghost Democracy for a skincare brand? It made me smile the first time I saw it. And as lighthearted and delightful as it is, it somewhat belies the serious skin care it encompasses.
Of the dozen or so brands I’ve recently met, Ghost Democracy Skincare is one of the most intriguing. As the name implies, it’s a democratic skincare brand that believes in “a higher standard of clean” — that is, less chemicals, more actives, and accessibility for all.
Los Angeles-based Ghost Democracy is indeed a collection of serious skincare products. And the Ghost Democracy Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum is no joke.
In fact, as I alluded to earlier, it’s that I consider the benchmark for Vitamin C serums. It’s waterless and formulated without sulfates, silicones, essential oils, denatured alcohol, fragrance, phthalates, parabens, mineral oil, synthetic dyes, propylene glycol, formaldehyde, MEA, DEA, TEA, PEG compounds and EDTA.
So what’s in it, you ask?
Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Bakuchiol and Bisabolol — four of my favorite, pro-skin health skin actives. And it has an otherworldly texture that’s an utter pleasure to use.
Don’t laugh (or judge!) but the first time I tried the Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum was a Friday night and I had taken a hit off the vape. I was doing my nightly skincare routine and I was sure I had experienced nirvana. You know how that is? You’re high and you think something is nirvana, or the funniest thing ever, or deeply profound.
The next morning, I remember thinking omg was that for real?! So I incorporated it in my AM routine too. And sure enough, it was legit. Ghost Democracy’s Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum is Nirvana in a Bottle™.
It’s got an 18% concentration of Vitamin C in the form of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, one of the two forms of the vitamin found in the Allies of Skin formula I reviewed earlier. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, or THD, is a relatively stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that delivers the potency and all the expected benefits of the active.
According to Paula Begoun and team,
“Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a stable form of vitamin C that is considered an analogue of L-ascorbic acid. Unlike pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid), tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is lipid (fat) soluble.
Some researchers believe this form of vitamin C has a greater affinity for skin because its fatty acid component helps aid penetration. It pairs well with other forms of vitamin C and retinol for enhanced effectiveness.”
Ghost Democracy didn’t rest on its Vitamin C laurels. They added in a solid level of moisturizing Vitamin E, stabilizing Ferulic Acid, as well as a .5% concentration of Bakuchiol for additional anti-aging benefits. And, what really makes me smile when browsing an INCI is Bisabolol — the active component of chamomile that’s a highly effective irritation soother.
Literally, Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum is the benchmark for an excellent, stable, potent Vitamin C. And while that’s surprising, what’s perhaps the most surprising thing of all is the price — just $34 on the Ghost Democracy website. If I were you, I’d grab it before it goes ghost. (Sorry, I couldn’t help myself. Blame the quarantine!)
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase Ghost Democracy’s Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum for $34 here.
The Glow Maker Vitamin C Facial Moisturizer
I saved this dope Vitamin C moisturizer for last. You probably know that I’m a big fan of The Glow Maker, having reviewed the brand on my blog several weeks ago. If you missed it, you can still catch it here.
Born and raised in sunny Southern California, the brand’s founder and lead chemist knows a thing or two about how to make a terrific skincare formulation. And this is really good stuff.
First, I like that the level of Vitamin C isn’t crazy high. Because you really can overdo it if you’re using a dedicated Vitamin C serum along with a moisturizer that contains a lot of Vitamin C as well.
I know I’ve overdone it when my face turns a “healthy” shade of red — and there’s nothing I’m particularly embarrassed about!
The Glow Maker Vitamin C Facial Moisturizer is formulated with six percent Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, which the brand (and the lead chemist) says translates to 15% Vitamin C bioavailability in the skin.
Vitamin C Facial Moisturizer is a rich blend of beneficial actives — just about everything skin needs to stay healthy. There’s moisturizing Panthenol, Vitamin E and organic Hyaluronic Acid in the form of low-molecular weight Sodium Hyaluronate — the salt form of HA that’s more skin compatible and thus a more effective humectant.
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FOR A LIMITED TIME! SAVE 20% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM THE GLOW MAKER AT THEGLOWMAKER.COM. ENTER CODE SKINCARMA20 AT CHECK-OUT.
In addition, there are multiple antioxidant botanicals including wild-harvested Kakadu Plum and Camu Camu Fruit extracts — both of which are powerful sources of Vitamin C. There are also a slew of non-fragrant plant oils and butters including anti-aging fave organic Rosehip Seed Oil, organic Sunflower Seed Oil, organic Shea Nut Butter, and organic Mango Kernel Butter.
You can’t go wrong with this stuff. It’s a but heavier than I had initially expected so a little goes a long, long way. And, get this: it’s just $20 on the Glow Maker website.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Glow Maker Vitamin C Facial Moisturizer for $20 here.
Go ahead, grab a bottle — and be sure to enter the giveaway below. Either way, you gotta try it for yourself!
That’s it guys. Stay safe. Stay sane. Do something to make the downtime meaningful — and make positive memories for the post-apocalypse period. I, for one, will be looking back fondly on my yoga sessions and longing for fresh-baked lemon cookies.
🖤 SKINCARMA
SKINCARMA….
GIVEAWAY!
Enter to win the new Vitamin C Facial Moisturizer from my friends at The Glow Maker! It’s got 15% Vitamin C bioavailability), Vitamins B5 and E, organic Hyaluronic Acid — and numerous non-fragrant plant oils. You’ll love it! ($20 value)
Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 04/05/2020.
**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF THE FIVE NEW VITAMIN C SERUMS I LOVE BUT YOU’VE PROBABLY NEVER HEARD OF!…ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
He has no idea what’s going outside…and I love that about him!
The Ingredient List of the Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C Collagen Rebuilding Serum:
aox|sb, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate aox|sb, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Isodecyl Neopentanoate emo, Glutathione (L), Superoxide Dismutase aox, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenoxyethanol presThe Ingredient List of the Purito Pure Vitamin C Serum:
sii|h 0 0, Ascorbic Acid (5%) 
aox|sb|buff, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Niacinamide cci|sb|aacne|h, Arginine sii, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Magnolia Liliflora Bud Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Tuber Magnatum Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract h, Panax Ginseng Root Extract aox|emo, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract so|h, Curcuma Longa (Tumeric) Root Extract aox|so|sb|perf, Sodium Polyacrylate vc|emo, Adenosine cci, Disodium EDTA chel|vcThe Ingredient List of the Skin Deva 20% Vitamin C+ E + Ferulic Acid Serum:
aox|sb|buff, Propylene Glycol h|solv|vc 0 0, Vitamin E aox 0-3 0-3, Polysorbate 80 emu|surf 0 0, Panthenol so|h 0 0, Ferulic Acid aox|amic, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Dehydroacetic Acid presThe Ingredient List of the Ghost Democracy Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum:
aox|sb, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) aox 0 0, Bisabolol so, Bakuchiol cci|amic|aox|emo, Ferulic Acid aox|amic, Tocopherol (Vitamin E) aox 0-3 0-3
The Ingredient List of The Glow Maker Vitamin C Facial Moisturizer:
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: 6% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (estimated 15% Vitamin C bioavailability*),Panthenol (Provitamin B5),Vitamin E (Natural, Non-GMO),
Organic Hyaluronic Acid (Low Molecular Weight Sodium Hyaluronate),MSM (Organic Sulfur). BASE: Organic Aloe Vera Juice,Organic Bulgarian Rose Distillate,Organic Witch Hazel Extract. BOTANICAL EXTRACTS: Kakadu Plum (Wild Harvested),Camu Camu Fruit,Organic Green Tea,Organic Roman Chamomile,Organic Gotu Kola,Arnica Flower. NATURAL OILS & BUTTERS: Organic Rosehip Seed Oil,Organic Sunflower Seed Oil,Organic Shea Nut Butter,Organic Mango Kernel Butter. Scent: Clementine Essential Oil.
