BRANDS I LOVE: GHOST DEMOCRACY INTRIGUINGLY CLEAN SKINCARE WITH A TWIST
I barely know what day it is. It doesn’t even matter what day it is — or whether I have any idea what day it is.
Over the past few weeks, my entire life has been turned upside down by the pandemic — like the lives of nearly everyone on the planet.
I’ve tried to spend the time wisely, mastering the “arts” — the art of baking, the art of zooming, and the art of yoga!
Yes, I know you’ve been waiting with bated breath for me to say it: I finally hit the yoga mat. Well, it wasn’t really just me on the yoga mat. You know Orpheus had to join in. He especially loves the deep breathing technique and the exhaling on ohhhmmm. He thinks I’m talking to him, saying something new, something he can’t quite make out. Even when I’m talking to the Universe, he thinks it’s about him!
My friend, Idris, send me an article this morning from The New York Times titled, Stop Trying to Be Productive. The piece really nailed for me a lot of what I’m experiencing mentally. I’m grasping for order in the chaos. Trying to make the best of the free time I’ve got now. And I realized that I’m trying to be productive. Productive?! I’m really just trying to survive.
From the piece:
“It’s like you’re underwater,” Mr. Hasham said.
Dr. Petersen said having compassion during these times is key. “I think that everyone is coping with this differently, and there’s a real tendency to shame people who aren’t coping with it the way you are or have different circumstances,” she said.
Finding small pleasures helps, too. Mr. Bailey offered one suggestion: “Get yourself some Indian food and drink a bottle of wine with your spouse. We’re going through a lot and we all just need to take it easy.”
No one is getting my recipe for my coconut cupcakes! #ijs
So, I’m taking it easy. Baking is easy. Yoga is (kinda) easy. Zooming with friends is easy. Wearing a mask is easy. Taking a daily walk through the park is easy. Go easy on yourself. Stay safe and sane wherever you are, whatever you’re going through.
Just chill! Play with skin care. And pretend every day is #selfcaresunday!
The skincare stuff starts here.
Meet Ghost Democracy!
Last week, in my blog article about my latest Vitamin C discoveries titled, New Vitamin C Facial Serums I Love but You’ve Probably Never Heard Of!, I introduced a particular Vitamin C serum that kinda blew my mind. It was the Ghost Democracy Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum and it’s quite an extraordinary product. So extra-ordinary that I declared it Nirvana in a Bottle!
I’ve been having a ton of fun with Ghost Democracy over the past few weeks. I first reviewed the brand in my blog article about facial oils, Dry Skin and Three of The Best Facial Oils I Think You’d Love, Too! Honestly, this is the coolest skincare brand discovery of 2020.
As the name implies, Ghost Democracy is a democratic skincare brand — along with The Ordinary, The Inkey List and Good Molecules. Unlike the others though, Ghost Democracy’s formulas are all clean — and the mid-range pricing is a reflection of that.
Ghost Democracy formulas are held to “a higher standard of clean” — that is, less chemicals, more actives, and accessibility for all. I think of Ghost Democracy as democratically priced, clean skin care.
Another distinguishing feature of the products is that they use high concentrations of pro-skin health actives — and Ghost Democracy is 100% transparent about what the formulas are comprised of. It’s rare for a brand to tip their hand, revealing the recipes for their product formulas.
I love that, but no one is getting my recipe for my coconut cupcakes! #ijs
As an example, here’s the recipe for the Ghost Democracy Clean Lightweight Daily Face Moisturizer:
Another thing I admire about the brand’s formulation philosophy is the fact that their chemists focus on developing superior skincare products without watering down the formulas. Not only is water in skin care wasteful and nonsensical, it also misses the opportunity to deliver the most pro-skin health benefits possible.
I talked a bit about the benefits of replacing water in skin care in my blog article on Biophile, a brand whose founding formulator, Alison Cutlan, prefers to use nutrient-rich fermented broths in place of water.
Taking it a bit further, Rex Chou, founder of Ghost Democracy Skincare says,
“The future is bright for waterless beauty, as long as other proven active ingredients are involved. Waterless beauty that just replaces water as a base with ‘cucumber water’ or other infusions that have no proven effect is equally detrimental to the industry as overpriced alternatives.”
And that Ghost Democracy “Nirvana in a Bottle”? Nary a drop of water in sight!
Let’s have a look at a few of the Ghost Democracy products that have been bringing me such joy the last few weeks…
Ghost Democracy | Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum
It’s rare to come across a Hyaluronic Acid serum where you know the level of HA in the formula. I recall that the Skin Regimen 1.85 HA Booster I reviewed on my blog here contains, well, 1.85% macro-, micro-, and cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid.
And just last week, in my article about new Vitamin C picks, I mentioned that the Purito Pure Vitamin C Serum is formulated with 84% Sodium Hyaluronate liquid.
Just saying it’s not all that common. Characteristically, Ghost Democracy shares that its Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum is formulated with 2.1% Pure Hyaluronic Acid, which I can only assume is a legit level of the power humectant.
But honestly, I don’t know what the functional level of HA in skin care is. So down a rabbit hole I went.
There’s a rather insightful article on Hyaluronic Acid titled, Why Science Says Hyaluronic Acid Is the Holy Grail to Wrinkle-Free, Youthful Hydration.
What’s Hyaluronic Acid anyway? From the article:
“Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan found throughout the body's connective tissue. Glycosaminoglycans are simply long unbranched carbohydrates, or sugars, called polysaccharides.
HA is the main component of what gives your skin structure, and is responsible for that plump and hydrated look. You may have heard the chatter around collagen, but hyaluronic acid is where it’s at.”
That’s exactly why you read claims on Hyaluronic Acid’s ability to plump skin and treat signs of aging. Plump skin shows fewer visible fine lines and wrinkles. The opposite of plump skin is sagging skin, which naturally shows deeper, more numerous, and more pronounced wrinkles. Fascinating, right?
But what about levels of Hyaluronic Acid, the unknown that lured me down the rabbit hole? I found this in the same article:
“If you're formulating your own products, or purchasing HA products that list the percentage, we recommend keeping the HA concentration below 2 percent. Why?
A very low molecular weight of 5 kDA HA has the ability to penetrate the skin, which means it can potentially carry other unwanted ingredients, chemicals, and bacteria more deeply into the skin. If you have compromised skin, this might be bad news. Thankfully, on its own, HA tends to not cause allergic reactions since our bodies also make it.”
With its 2.1% level of HA, the Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum also contains a nice, healthy level of 4.0% Niacinamide to help brighten skin and flush out pores. Curiously, there’s also 1.3% White Tea Leaf Extract — something I find intriguing. You often see Green Tea Extract in skin care but white tea?
Ghost Democracy shares this about their reasoning behind it: “One of the least processed tea extracts, white tea retains more of the plant’s antioxidants than black and green teas. High concentration of polyphenol and flavonoid content helps to reduce oxidative stress and protect skin.”
Now that’s good clean skin care with a twist!
The Floodgate serum has a thicker, more pulpy texture that’s not the least bit sticky, which I found surprising. Oddly, it has a somewhat unappetizing odor to it which reminds me of the “hot dog water” smell that many people complain about over The Ordinary’s Marine Hyaluronics, one of my all-time favorite humectant serums.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Ghost Democracy Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum for $34 here.
**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF GHOST DEMOCRACY INTRIGUINGLY CLEAN SKINCARE WITH A TWIST…ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
Ghost Democracy | Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum
As a copywriter, imagine how much I love the name Ghost Democracy to begin with. It made me smile the first time I saw it. But as lighthearted and delightful as it sounds, it somewhat belies the serious skin care the brand encompasses.
Los Angeles-based Ghost Democracy is indeed a collection of serious skincare products. And the Ghost Democracy Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum is no joke.
In fact, I consider it the benchmark for well-formulated, maximally effective Vitamin C serums. It’s waterless and, as all of Ghost Democracy products, is formulated without sulfates, silicones, essential oils, denatured alcohol, fragrance, phthalates, parabens, mineral oil, synthetic dyes, propylene glycol, formaldehyde, MEA, DEA, TEA, PEG compounds and EDTA.
So what’s in it, then?
Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Bakuchiol and Bisabolol — four of my favorite, pro-skin health skin actives. And it has an otherworldly texture that’s an utter pleasure to use.
Don’t laugh (or judge!) but the first time I tried the Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum was a Friday night and I had taken a hit off the vape. I was doing my nightly skincare routine and I was sure I had experienced nirvana. You know how that is? You’re high and you think something is nirvana, or the funniest thing ever, or deeply profound.
The next morning, I remember thinking omg was that for real?! So I incorporated it in my AM routine too. And sure enough, it was legit. Indeed, Ghost Democracy’s Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum is Nirvana in a Bottle™.
It’s got an 18% concentration of Vitamin C in the form of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, one of the two forms of the vitamin found in the Allies of Skin formula I reviewed on my blog last week.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, or THD, is a relatively stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that delivers the potency and all the expected benefits of the active.
According to my skincare muse Paula Begoun and team,
“Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a stable form of vitamin C that is considered an analogue of L-ascorbic acid. Unlike pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid), tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is lipid (fat) soluble.
Some researchers believe this form of vitamin C has a greater affinity for skin because its fatty acid component helps aid penetration. It pairs well with other forms of vitamin C and retinol for enhanced effectiveness.”
Ghost Democracy didn’t rest on its Vitamin C laurels. They added in a solid level of moisturizing Vitamin E, stabilizing Ferulic Acid, as well as a .5% concentration of Bakuchiol for additional anti-aging benefits.
And, what really makes me smile when browsing an INCI is Bisabolol — the active component of chamomile that’s a highly effective irritation soother.
Literally, Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum is the benchmark for an excellent, stable, potent Vitamin C. And while that’s surprising, what’s perhaps the most surprising thing of all is the price — just $34 on the Verishop website. If I were you, I’d grab it before it goes ghost. (Sorry, I couldn’t help myself. Blame the quarantine!)
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Ghost Democracy Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum for $34 here.
Softglow Facial Oil
Right as the seasons were beginning to transition earlier than normal, around mid-February here in New York City, I began to transition my skin care — moving from heavier, more occlusive creams and facial oils to lighter treatments that didn’t feel so totally extra.
You know what I’m talking about if you live in a particularly cold climate. There are nights when I can apply a heavy facial moisturizer before bed and literally a facial oil on top of that. Any other time of the year, that wouldn’t be possible — and certainly wouldn’t be necessary!
I crafted an article around the time called Dry Skin and Three of the Best Facial Oils I Think You’d Love, Too! One of the three was Ghost Democracy’s Softglow Facial Oil. While it’s not quite a dry oil, it’s not the least bit greasy. In fact, five or ten seconds after application, it’s completely absorbed.
It’s such a pleasure to use that I’d venture to say it’s my second favorite product from Ghost Democracy — after the Nirvana in a Bottle, of course. The Softglow formula is a 100% natural, non-toxic formula that’s both silicone- and fragrance-free.
With just 14 ingredients, the Softglow facial oil is a clean oil dream. There are numerous common, expected plant oils in the formula, like Sweet Almond Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, and Apricot Kernel Oil and Bisabolol — the active component of chamomile that’s a terrific irritation soother.
I love Bisabolol. You don't see it often enough in skin care, so I love that it’s featured so prominently in the Ghost Democracy Softglow Facial Oil.
A clear, oily fluid extract, Bisabolol has been used in traditional medicine for centuries as it’s long been known to possess potent anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties.
Imagine it’s 1492, the year Christopher Columbus discovered America. You’re aboard the Santa María, the flagship of the historic expedition, and have injured your elbow battening down one of its three masts in a strong wind. It’s beginning to swell and become infected. You amble down to the apothecary in the hull of the ship, where the ship’s doctor applies a bisabolol ointment to treat your swelling wound. Soon after, the swelling recedes and, with the infection under control, he now won't need to amputate your arm.
That’s how amazing Bisabolol is!
Perhaps as surprising is the inclusion of Cloudberry Seed Oil, Meadowfoam Seed Oil, and Abyssinian Seed Oil — all terrific non-fragrant plants oils with potent antioxidant and skin-replenishing benefits.
Where things get really intriguing, though, is at ingredient number nine, Garcinia Mangostana — or Mangosteen Seed Oil. It wasn’t that long ago that I had no idea WTF a mangosteen was. It takes me back to my first trip to Hong Kong in November, 2012. I had never heard of mangosteens in my life — and suddenly they were a thing. And they’re delicious, too!
I had no idea that they’re so nutritious. Rich in vitamins and minerals, mangosteens contain several nutrients with antioxidant activity, including vitamin C. More interesting, mangosteens are rich in xanthones — a unique plant compound known to have strong antioxidant properties, among other benefits.
According to the US National Institute of Health, “Several studies have shown that xanthones possess significant biological properties, including anti-oxidant, anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral activities.”
I’m having fun peeling back the layers of Ghost Democracy as much as I’ve had peeling back the layers of a mangosteen.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Ghost Democracy Softglow Facial Oil for $38 here.
That’s it guys! How fun is Ghost Democracy?! I hope you’ll head over their website and perhaps experience their cool, clean skin care with a twist for yourself. I hate to end it here, but I have to get an Irish Soda Bread out of the oven.
🖤 SKINCARMA
SKINCARMA….
GIVEAWAY!
Enter to win the entire Ghost Democracy 6-piece collection of clean skin care with a twist! It’s an entire skincare regimen, complete with cleanser, humectant and Vitamin C serums, two facial moisturizers and eye cream. ($188 value)
Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 04/12/2020.
**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF GHOST DEMOCRACY INTRIGUINGLY CLEAN SKINCARE WITH A TWIST…ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
Orpheus doesn’t understand why I’m on the floor.
The Ingredient List of the Ghost Democracy Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum:
cci|sb|aacne|h, Propanediol solv|h, Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid) 
sii|h 0 0, Tilia Cordata (Linden) Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract aox|so, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Phytic Acid sb|chel, Xanthan Gum vc|emu|surf, Phenoxyethanol pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres
The Ingredient List of the Ghost Democracy Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum:
aox|sb, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) aox 0 0, Bisabolol so, Bakuchiol cci|amic|aox|emo, Ferulic Acid aox|amic, Tocopherol (Vitamin E) aox 0-3 0-3The Ingredient List of the Ghost Democracy Softglow Facial Oil:
emo 0 1-3, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil emo 0 0, Gossypium Herbaceum (Cottonseed) Seed Oil 2 3, Rubus Chamaemorus (Cloudberry) Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil emo, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Crambe Abyssinica (Abyssinian) Seed Oil emo, Passiflora Edulis (Passionflower) Seed Oil emo, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil emo 0 1-2, Garcinia Mangostana (Mangosteen) Seed Oil, Ximenia Americana (Ximenia) Seed Oil emo, Bisabolol so, Panthenyl Triacetate, Acetyl Rheum Rhaponticum Root Extract sb
