MY WINTER EMPTIES : NIACINAMIDE SERUMS, VITAMIN C FACE SERUM, BAKUCHIOL MOISTURIZER & MORE!
At this point, most of us around the world are on some sort of self-quarantine or other restrictive measures to stem the spread of the Coronavirus.
Here in New York City, we’ve been asked to stay indoors with a few exceptions. We can venture outdoors to get exercise, purchase medicines and food — and to work in an essential business like a food market or utility. And, of course, when we do, we must practice “social distancing.” The whole thing is surreal, scary and uncertain.
Since I’m spending about 90% of my time inside my apartment, I’m challenging myself to use the time to learn and do new things — like baking cookies! Not since I was a child have I baked cookies. Except maybe using those cookie doughs that are pre-made and come in an elongated can. And even that was back in LA in the 90s.
So, I decided to bake homemade cookies from scratch. Lemon sugar cookies made with coconut flour and a light lemon glaze. They’re vegan, gluten-free and super lemony! They came out great, are really delicious, if I do say so myself. But the irony is I have no one to share them with! I literally have two dozen lemon cookies for me, party of one.
I also bought a yoga mat online yesterday since I haven’t been able to go to the gym. Interestingly, while all gyms in NYC closed down a week ago, I had been refraining from my morning workout for over a month as the rush of blood to my head with an accelerated heart rate was triggering migraines. So, yoga it is!
Funny, too, is that unbeknownst to most of us, winter slipped passed us this past weekend, and it’s now spring in New York. And that means it’s time to have a look back at my winter empties!
It feels like years since I last used some of these products and the look back is an interesting one this time for sure. I really do miss a few of them, others not so much. Let’s have a look back at seven skincare products I used up over the last three months — from a silky Bakuchiol moisturizer to one of my favorite Vitamin C serums ever.
The Inkey List Bakuchiol Cream
What I said about it: Two of my Bakuchiol pick-ups are more lotion than serum. That’s the case with the Bakuchiol moisturizer from one of my fave indie brands, The Inkey List — the most versatile of the group [that I reviewed in my Bakuchiol series here.]
Sure, this one is more of a moisturizer than the others with a high level of Squalane (ingredient #2) and even something called Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, or Sacha Inchi oil. Sacha inchi nut oil is extracted from the seeds and fruit of the Plukenetia volubilis, or pracaxi — a tree native to the Amazon region.
This oddly sounding oil is purported to fight depression, reduce cholesterol levels, prevent heart disease and aid in diabetes management. Rich in Omega 3, I imagine it functions like so many non-fragrant plant oils — oils like Argan, Marula, Jojoba and Almond — nourishing the skin with perhaps some antioxidant benefits tossed in for good measure.
The Bakuchiol level in Inkey’s vegan formula is at 1% — the industry standard. It’s light, silky and quite comfortable on the skin. Though not considered 100% clean like the Herbivore serum, it is free of sulfates SLS and SLES, parabens, formaldehydes, formaldehyde-releasing agents, phthalates, mineral oil, retinyl palmitate, oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone, triclosan, and triclocarban — and contains less than one percent of synthetic fragrances.
While it’s super comfortable on the skin, it’s also comfortable on the wallet at just $9.99 for 1 oz. | 30 mL. Inkey’s option is a great place to start if you’re a Bakuchiol novice!
What I think now: It’s been exactly six months since my original blog article on what I called the Bakuchiol Five. (You can catch it here if you missed it!) Since that time, the Inkey Bakuchiol moisturizer has stood the test of time. I’ve continued using it and find it quick and easy when I’m layering other serums. This one doubles as my moisturizer. Now that the temps are back up again, it’s a perfect option for the spring.
Do I miss it?: I haven’t stopped using it!
Good Molecules Niacinamide Serum
What I said about it: Remember when I said that skin needs antioxidants and vitamins to maintain healthy functions? Well, Vitamin B3, also known as Niacinamide, happens to be one of the most potent antioxidant vitamins there is. It’s a true powerhouse when it comes to skin health. Just ask my muse Paula Begoun, founder of fan-fave skincare brand Paula’s Choice. Regrettably, we couldn’t afford the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster. As perfect as it is, it’s $44.
About Niacinamide, straight from Paula’s mouth:
Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid, niacinamide is a very effective skin-restoring ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging and blemish-prone skin. Among these benefits is the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and a weakened skin surface. Niacinamide can also mitigate and to some extent help visibly repair damage from UV light and offset other sources of environmental attack, including the negative impact of various types of airborne pollutants. Unlike many beneficial ingredients, niacinamide is stable in the presence of heat and light.
So you see, Niacinamide is a must-have. The trick was finding an affordable one that was well-formulated, too. That’s how we discovered Good Molecules!
Think of Good Molecules as one of those super affordable skincare brands that make access to good skin care easy. Yes, democratic skin care! Similar to The Inkey List and The Ordinary, Good Molecules offers a range of targeted treatments — like a Hyaluronic Acid serum, Squalane Oil and even a cleanser at a crazy low cost.
By no means is the Good Molecules Niacinamide Serum a perfect formula like the Paula’s Choice option. But, the second ingredient is Niacinamide, putting it on par with the level of the vitamin in that Paula’s Choice serum — about 10%. Honestly, that’s what we cared about most [when Michael and I were putting together our Complete $100 Skincare Routine].
At just $6, the Good Molecules Niacinamide Serum does contain both Phenoxyethanol and Chlorphenesin, preservatives that are restricted above certain amounts, but they’re likely at low enough levels as to be innocuous, with little chance of compromising skin health or irritating the skin.
What I think now: I’ve continued to advocate for more and more clean skin care. The reality is that the more skin care you use with potential irritants like Phenoxyethanol and Chlorphenesin, the more sensitized your skin becomes over time. There are far better alternatives out there — including for Niacinamide serums. (See the Purito option below!)
Do I miss it?: No, I don’t.
Garden of Wisdom Vitamin C 23% Serum & Ferulic Acid
What I said about it: The necessity of Vitamin C to a pro-skin health routine goes without saying. Honestly, if you’re not already using a separate, well-formulated Vitamin C serum in your skincare regimen, I hope you’ll select one of the year’s best Vitamin C Serums!
Earlier in the year, I wrote a blog article about the benefits of Vitamin C. Feel welcome to read it here.
In my original piece I said that, “Vitamin C is old news. I get it. But, fortunately for all of us, it’s made a real resurgence lately as marketers and consumers alike have begun to focus on tried-and-true ingredients rather than sexy product launches powered by massive marketing campaigns.”
As I said, Vitamin C loathes three common elements — sunlight, air and water. In its most potent forms, including a water-free Ascorbic Acid powder, it can even be sensitive to peptides. If you’re using a Vitamin C serum that contains Ascorbic Acid, as all of the options in my top picks, you would be wise to either separate them by regimen (perhaps Vitamin C in the evening, peptides in the morning) — or at least wait 10-15 minutes after applying the Vitamin C serum before you apply peptides.
Often quite needlessly, Vitamin C serums are costly and the five I’ve recommended run the gamut — from a simple $5 powder to a super innovative $80 suspension. When assembling my recent complete $100 skincare routine, selecting the perfect Vitamin C serum was fun — with so many well-priced, well-formulated options.
It’s no stretch to say that my collaborator Michael and I scoured the world for the perfect Vitamin C — perfect in formulation, perfect in price. We settled on indie brand Garden of Wisdom. Sure it sounds so smart and cool, but beyond that the Garden of Wisdom Vitamin C 23% Serum & Ferulic Acid happens to be a really solid option that costs just $12.47.
The GOW serum has a relatively tight formulation with just nine ingredients. The texture is super light and easily absorbed, making layering a cinch. It comes in an air tight, opaque bottle with a pump (bravo!) and is stabilized by Vitamin C’s all-time BFF Ferulic Acid — a potent antioxidant that has the remarkable ability to prevent oxidation.
Garden of Wisdom isn’t readily available in the US yet, so I had to pay to have it shipped from the UK. (Hey, Garden of Wisdom, I waited nearly five weeks to receive it; that’s hardly wise!) Shipping woes aside, if their top-shelf Vitamin C serum is any indication, I’m looking forward to discovering more of what the brand has to offer.
You can get it on the Victoria Health website here. Yeah, it’s worth the wait.
What I think now: I’ve recommended the Garden of Wisdom Vitamin C 23% Serum & Ferulic Acid to dozens of people since this initial review. In fact, I declared it one of my top Vitamin C picks of the year in December. If you missed that, you can still catch it here. This one has sure stood the test of time. Though I’m flummoxed that GOW has not yet cracked the US market. I’m waiting…
Do I miss it?: Hell yeah, I do! It remains one of the best I’ve come across.
**WATCH VIDEO REVIEWS OF MY FAVORITE PRODUCTS AND BRANDS ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
Bioeffect EGF Essence
What I said about it: The Bioeffect EGF Essence is one of the two new products that [my skinfluencer friend] Nikita and I were among the first to experience. The other was the super cool Imprinting Hydrogel Mask.
I gotta say I love using the essence.
Sure, it’s super refreshing — as an essence should be. But it’s also an intriguing formulation. In addition to the brand’s EGF extract and, again, the antioxidant Barley Seed Extract, there are two humectant actives at high levels. The first, Glycerin, is as common and effective as it gets. Not so noteworthy, but a true skincare workhorse.
It’s the second humectant that caught my eye: Isopentyldiol. I’ve never heard of it until coming across it in the EGF Essence INCI!
So down a Google rabbit hole I went…
Isopentyldiol is a “fully water-soluble, colorless, odorless humectant liquid ingredient. It behaves as a hydrotrope and provides with emollience along with a dry, non-tacky skin feel.” It’s rated EWG green for safety yet is rarely used in skin care. According to EWG it’s only found in the Estee Lauder Idealist pore-minizing serum and two Tony Moly products.
The EGF Essence also contains Sorbitol which, according to Paula Begoun, is a type of sugar similar to glycerin. What’s more, “its sugar component makes sorbitol an intriguing prebiotic, an ingredient that can ‘feed’ the probiotics that make up a person’s skin microbiome, thus helping it become balanced. Specifically, sorbitol’s breakdown by certain probiotics can create beta-glucan, a skin-calming antioxidant.”
It appears, too, that the combination of Isopentyldiol with Sorbitol helps boosts moisturization in the skin — an often under-appreciated, yet essential part of a healthy skincare routine.
I think Bioffect’s intent here is, in fact, to prep skin for the application of the EGF by effectively restoring hydration levels. Optimally hydrated skin is better able to absorb skincare treatments. A great analogy is to think of two sponges — one wet, one dry. Now imagine soaking up water on the kitchen counter with each. The wet sponge will more quickly absorb the water than the dry sponge. Why? It’s because water molecules attract one another like a magnet. The same goes for the application of skin care! Damp skin will draw in water-based products more quickly — and more deeply — than dry skin.
Bioeffect says that the EGF Essence “enhances EGF efficacy.” I can certainly agree with that assertion. For sure, this one’s a win in my book.
What I think now: It’s still such good stuff. A really well-formulated, pro-skin health treatment essence that’s a pleasure to use. I love how easy it is to layer EGFs into any skincare routine with the Bioeffect EGF Essence.
Do I miss it?: I do miss it. I really do!
“So powerful is the light of unity that it can illuminate the whole earth.”
- Baha'U'Llah
Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion
What I said about it: First, I’m not even sure what this product is called. And it’s not entirely because I don’t speak much Japanese beyond a few cuisine related terms, basic greetings — and introducing myself by name: カーマイン. I picked up a few things when I taught ESL to Japanese students back in LA. My students called me Carmine-sensei (teacher) and dasai (geek). So disrespectful! And, Tokyo is up there among my fave cities, along with London and NYC.
On Amazon, this unusual J-Beauty Hyaluronic Acid-powered toner is listed as Hada Labo Rohto Hadalabo Gokujun Hyaluronic Lotion Moist. I’ll just go with the name used by the informed blog I recently read about it on, Simple Skincare Science.
The Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion has been around a while, but I wasn’t paying much attention to it until I was researching forms of Hyaluronic Acid for an upcoming blog. It’s actually quite an intriguing formula with a surprising velvety texture.
It has a very tight ingredient list with just 11 ingredients, 3 of which are forms of HA including Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate. A high level of Glycerin also helps power its efficacy. It contains no proven skin irritants like fragrance, fragrant plant oils and alcohol — only Butylene Glycol can be a potential irritant, though it rarely is.
The Hado Labo formula also has a pH of 5.0, making it highly compatible with skin’s average pH level of 4.7. With its hydrating, humectant potency, I cannot help but be wowed by it — and completely get why it’s an A-Beauty cult fave!
What I think now: I still love the simplicity and true efficacy of the formula. It just has this otherworldly (dare I say it, alien technology!) feel to it that makes it difficult to put your finger on. Again, there’s no doubt in my mind why this is such a J-Beauty must-have. I’d love to know how many Japanese women consider this simple yet elegant formula to be indispensable in a skincare routine. In my time at Kiehl’s, we always used to say that one Lip Balm #1 was sold every minute around the world. I bet this is up there, too!
Do I miss it?: Yes, that surprising velvety texture is everything.
Purito Galacto Niacin 97 Power Essence
What I said about it: I follow skin care and skincare ingredient trends very closely. In 2017, the most googled skincare ingredient search in China was “Vitamin C”. In 2018 and well into 2019, it was “Niacinamide.”
Cherished for its brightening power, Niacinamide has not been popular in skincare products in either A-beauty or Western beauty until recently.
For brightening, in particular, K-beauty has relied on plant extracts including Glycyrrhiza Glabra (licorice) Root Extract, Kojic Acid and Ellagic Acid — an antioxidant found in pomegranates, raspberries and strawberries.
The Purito Galacto Niacin 97 Power Essence is one of the best Niacinamide serums I’ve come across since the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster.
First, it’s a clean formula devoid of toxic irritants. Second, it’s a super watery formula — which means it’s extremely easy to layer into a skincare routine. Purito’s Galacto Niacin 97 Power Essence contains just twelve ingredients, three of which are ferments — Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate and Lactobacillus Ferment.
The second ingredient is power brightener Niacinamide, which in my estimation puts it at between 5-10% of the formula — a good amount. There are also two nourishing amino acids and soothing Allantoin.
It’s seriously good stuff! And at about $20, it doesn’t get better!
What I think now: As far as Niacinamide serums go, the Purito Galacto Niacin 97 Power Essence is a superior formula. The fact that it’s relatively inexpensive for what you get still surprises me. Anyone in the market for a well-formulated Niacinamide serum should take a serious look at this one.
Do I miss it?: Nope, I’m on my fourth bottle!
Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Dew It Right Eye Gel
What I said about it: The Hyaluronic Marine Dew It Right Eye Gel from Dr. Dennis Gross is a light, silky lotion that comes in an elongated, airless pump. Of course, no brand should ever — and I mean ever! — package an eye cream in a jar. So, I appreciate this first and foremost. Dr. Gross’s formula targets a multitude of concerns simultaneously, including puffiness, dehydration, dryness and fine lines.
It’s a nice blend of humectants, antioxidants, depuffing Caffeine Extract and even one of those Hanbang ingredients I mentioned with Hanyul — Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract to brighten the eye area. It’s got high levels of both Sodium Hyaluronate and Glycerin to help prevent water loss — and claims to keep skin hydrated for up to 72 hours. (No, I’m not testing that out either!)
One of the more, ahem, eye opening ingredients in the INCI is something called Sea Whip Extract. Like what?! Yet again, I had to Google it or I wouldn’t be able to sleep tonight.
Sea Whip Extract is an “extract from a creature (Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae) that inhabits coral reefs, known for its skin-soothing properties, which makes it useful for all skin types, especially sensitive or redness-prone skin.”
Enough said.
What I think now: I love the lightweight, silky texture of this eye cream. It’s perfect for oily skin types all year round — and the rest of us normal and dry skins during the warmer months. I appreciate, too, how easily absorbed it is by the skin. That’s helpful in the mornings when I don’t have time to wait before applying sunscreen in my eye area. (For one of my newest eye sunscreen product discoveries, check my IG page here.)
Do I miss it?: I kinda do.
Hey, guys, please stay safe wherever you are. And just as important as staying safe, is staying sane. Bake something you’ve never baked before. Try a fun, new engaging app like Houseparty that keeps you connect to others. And try to get as much exercise as you can. I, for one, have no desire to emerge from this looking like a lazy fat ass that sat around on the couch for three months.
Or, discover some cool, new skincare!
🖤 SKINCARMA
**WATCH VIDEO REVIEWS OF MY FAVORITE PRODUCTS AND BRANDS ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
Orpheus loves his #solaraglow too!
The Ingredient List of the The Inkey List Bakuchiol Cream:
Water (Aqua), Squalane, Glycerin, Propanediol, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil (Sacha Inchi oil), Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Bakuchiol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Caproyl Prolinate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 60, Phytic Acid, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol.
The Ingredient List of the Good Molecules Niacinamide Serum:
Water/Aqua/Eau, Niacinamide, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Betaine, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Triethylhexanoin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Hydrogenated Lecithin.
The Ingredient List of the Garden of Wisdom Vitamin C 23% Serum & Ferulic Acid:
Distilled Water, L-Ascorbic Acid 23%, Alkyl Benzoate, Panthenol-D, Carbomer, Ferulic Acid, Sclerotium Gum, Optiphen, Hyaluronic acid.
The Ingredient List of the Bioeffect EGF Essence:
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Isopentyldiol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Seed Extract, Egf (Barley Sh-Oligopeptide-1).
The Ingredient List of the Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion:
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Disodium Succinate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxyethycellulose, Methylparaben, PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Succinic Acid.
The Ingredient List of the Purito Galacto Niacin 97 Power Essence:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Leaf Extract, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Allantoin, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA.
The Ingredient List of the Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Dew It Right Eye Gel:
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharide Isomerate, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Sea Whip Extract, Smilax Aristolochiifolia Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Caffeine, Panthenol, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Disodium Rutinyl Disulfate, Stearyl Heptanoate, Sodium PCA, Lactic Acid, Trehalose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sodium Citrate, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Tin Oxide (CI 77861), Mica (CI 77019), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).
