THE 2024 SKINCARMA PRODUCT OF THE YEAR: LION POSE UNSPOTTED 4X ACID JELLY NIGHT SERUM
This is my seventh annual Skincarma Product of the Year. It’s crazy to me that I first declared a favorite new product back in 2017. That seems like ages ago!
Since my designation of The Ordinary’s 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder as the best product innovation of 2017, I’ve come across hundreds of skincare products. As effective as it is, that Vitamin C powder seems so boring to me now. I haven’t used it in years.
Skincare innovation has come a long way since. And every year, it gets harder and harder to decide which product rises above the rest. I’ve gotten in the habit of paring down my final list of the most innovative and noteworthy products to just six – out of maybe a hundred over the course of a 12-month period.
It’s a process not unlike the one I follow in my work each year as a judge in the Beauty Matter NEXT awards. Curiously, this is the first year that the two have converged. Indeed my pick for the 2024 Skincarma Product of the Year is the Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum. This superb corrective serum for dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation, acne marks and scars, texture irregularities, and more was also honored with the Beauty Matter NEXT award for best new product innovation.
My original deep dive into what makes it so exceptional is just below…
THE SKINCARMA PRODUCTS OF THE YEAR
But before I get into my detailed Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum product review below, I wanted to answer some of the most frequently asked questions about the causes and solutions for dark spots and hyperpigmentation…
1. How do I get rid of dark spots on my face?
If you're looking to get rid of dark spots on your face, there are a number of treatments and products that can help. Importantly, because effectively treating dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation can be challenging, consistency, patience and commitment for the long-term are key. And, of course, sunscreen!
Here are some effective treatment options:
Topical treatments: There are a variety of topical brightening creams and serums for dark spots and hyperpigmentation. These include OTC and prescription creams and serums that are clinically proven to fade dark spots. Look for products that contain high concentrations of ingredients like Hydroquinone, Retinoids, Vitamin C, or Niacinamide as well as newer actives like Tranexamic Acid and Azelaic Acid.
Chemical peels: Chemical peels exfoliate the top layers of skin to reveal the smoother, fresher and brighter skin below. They are a fast, effective solution and can be done at home with broadly available exfoliating serums and masks with Glycolic Acid. For an even stronger chemical treatment, consult with a dermatologist or aesthetician.
Microdermabrasion: Microdermabrasion uses a device to exfoliate the top layers of skin and remove dead skin cells, which can help fade dark spots both instantly and over time. The best microdermabrasion treatments are available through a dermatologist or aesthetician.
Laser treatments: Lasers use focused light to target dark spots and break up concentrated pigment in the skin that appears as hyperpigmentation on the surface. Available through a dermatologist or aesthetician, this is a more expensive option, but it can be among the most effective – particularly for embedded dark spots that have been left untreated.
Sun protection: One of the most important things you can do to prevent new dark spots from forming and existing dark spots from becoming more intense, is to protect your skin from sun damage and subsequent photoaging. Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every day – even on sunless, seemingly cloudy days.
Explore my top picks of the best sunscreens for face here.
Sources: American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) - How to Get Rid of Dark Spots; Healthline - How to Get Rid of Dark Spots on Your Face
2. What causes hyperpigmentation?
While often difficult to treat, hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition. It is generally characterized by specific areas of skin that appear darker than the surrounding skin. Hyperpigmentation can be caused by a variety of factors, including sun exposure, hormonal changes, and certain medications.
When your skin is exposed to the sun, it produces more melanin as a way of protecting itself from UV damage. Over time, this can lead to areas of hyperpigmentation, including dark spots, sun spots, or melasma.
Hormonal changes during pregnancy or menopause can also trigger the overproduction of melanin, leading to visible hyperpigmentation on the surface of the skin. Certain medications, including some antibiotics and chemotherapy drugs, can also cause hyperpigmentation as a side effect.
The most effective way to prevent hyperpigmentation resulting from sun exposure is to wear an effective daily facial sunscreen.
Explore my top picks of the best sunscreens for face here.
Sources: American Academy of Dermatology - Hyperpigmentation: Causes and Treatment; Healthline - What You Should Know About Hyperpigmentation
3. What does tranexamic acid do for your face?
Tranexamic Acid is a medication which is most commonly used for the treatment of bleeding disorders; but it has gained popularity in recent years as a topical treatment for hyperpigmentation.
How does Tranexamic Acid work to fade hyperpigmentation?
According to an article on Dovepress, the active has the ability to inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color.
“It has been demonstrated that tranexamic acid can reverse UV-induced hyperpigmentation. This is because tranexamic acid inhibits the binding of plasminogen to keratinocytes, which in turn reduces the activity of melanocyte tyrosinase, resulting in a decrease in arachidonic acid and prostaglandins. The latter is a well-known inflammatory mediator that leads to melanogenesis, particularly in the face region, which is regarded as a primary contributor to the appearance of aged skin.”
Tranexamic Acid is also believed to have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help to calm and soothe the skin.
Sources: Dovepress - Efficacy and Best Mode of Delivery for Tranexamic Acid in Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: A Systematic Review; PubMed Central, NIH National Library of Medicine - A Systematic Review of Tranexamic Acid in Plastic Surgery: What’s New?
4. Is tranexamic acid better than Vitamin C?
Tranexamic Acid and Vitamin C, or Ascorbic Acid, are both highly effective when used topically to fade the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, unifying skin tone and brightening the complexion. The two powerful actives are not mutually exclusive, meaning they can be used together – either in the same brightening serum or the same skincare routine.
While Vitamin C has been featured in topical skincare for nearly two decades, including the best brightening serums and creams, both actives are supported by clinical research.
Some studies have suggested that Tranexamic Acid may be more effective than Vitamin C for treating certain types of hyperpigmentation, such as melasma. However, other studies have found that Vitamin C can be just as effective, if not more so, than Tranexamic Acid for reducing the appearance of dark spots.
An article published by the National Library of Medicine at the NIH, stated the conclusions of a study comparing the efficacy of each: “At the end of 8 weeks, MASI, PGA and PtGA showed improvement with both tranexamic acid and vitamin C. However the improvement was more with tranexamic acid than with vitamin C, although not statistically significant.”
Ultimately, the best treatment for hyperpigmentation will depend on the underlying cause of the pigmentation irregularities and the individual’s unique skin type and concerns.
Sources: Clinikally - Tranexamic Acid for Skin: Benefits, Side Effects & Uses; PubMed Central, NIH National Library of Medicine - A Split Face Comparative Study of Safety and Efficacy of Microneedling with Tranexamic Acid versus Microneedling with Vitamin C in the Treatment of Melasma
5. Product Review
THE SKINCARMA PRODUCT OF THE YEAR: LION POSE UNSPOTTED 4X ACID JELLY NIGHT SERUM
The product of the year? Yes, it’s that good. And, interestingly, the Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum was a contender for last year’s best new product, though it was a very late discovery for me. I knew it was exceptional, but didn’t have time to really evaluate it – and become infatuated with the results.
Lion Pose seemed to come out of nowhere, emerging on the scene from a dense jungle of skincare products formulated to brighten the complexion. And the brand’s Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum is one of the most impressive brightening serums that I’ve come across.
Which is only more significant given that it was the brand’s first and only product at launch.
In my recollection, it’s the only brightening serum I’ve seen that combines very high concentrations of Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Azelaic Acid and Tranexamic Acid in the top ten ingredients – a blend that the brand asserts is a combined 15% of the formula.
As I’ve often shared, really potent Glycolic Acid serums give me pause. But at least you usually wash them off – as with The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution and the Paula’s Choice 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel. The Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum is intended for use as a leave-on treatment that delivers its brightening oomph while you sleep.
I’m ngl I was really worried the first night I tried it. I had just gotten my hands on Unspotted the same morning and loved its velvety texture. I couldn’t wait. But the INCI was not only impressive, it was alarming. And a leave-on treatment? This could be a recipe for disaster, I remember thinking.
More than a few times, a potent Retinol face serum or Glycolic Acid treatment has sensitized my skin, leaving it red and bumpy in the morning. On more than one occasion it’s been so inflamed that even splashing water on my face hurts.
So at first I intended to just leave Unspotted on for a few minutes to see how my skin would react. That way I could mitigate any sensitization. I carefully smoothed the silky serum over my face, avoiding my eyes. And remarkably, while my skin tingled a little bit, it didn’t become inflamed – or seem irritated in any way.
I hadn’t used any aggressive exfoliating treatments with Glycolic Acid all week so I knew that I wasn’t applying it directly to fresh skin. At least there was a layer of dead surface skin cells to be cleared off! And there was still time to wash it off before bed just in case. Once I was sure I was good, I followed up with a dab of the Skinfix Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream to moisturize and soothe my skin – and seal it in.
What did I see in the morning? The clearest, brightest and calmest complexion in memory! No joke, I really saw a visible difference in the appearance of my skin. It was more even and healthy looking than it normally would be.
I have to admit, Lion Pose’s Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum is the real thing – a legitimately well-formulated exfoliating and brightening serum in one.
Look, I don’t have existing dark spots or hyperpigmentation to fix. I protect and correct dark spots as part of my daily routine. I use sunscreen religiously and apply a Niacinamide serum and Vitamin C face serum twice daily. And I’ve done this for years. My complexion is relatively unified.
So for me to actually see a visible difference in my complexion is a big deal. And without irritation? That’s not by accident. Unspotted has a solid soothing complex composed of Arrow Root Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice.
The best part is that the results have been replicated over and over again. My skin is always clear, bright and healthy looking the morning after. I’ve even used it on consecutive nights and seen no irritation.
And, importantly, I’ve recommended it to friends and followers who report back that they love their own results. If you’re looking for an effective exfoliating and brightening serum to address complexion irregularities, you may want to give Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum a try.
IT’S OKAY TO BE THE VILLAIN SOMETIMES!
6. Pros & Cons
What I like about it: The Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum is one of the most innovative (and coolest!) brightening face serums I’ve come across in a long time. I really appreciate its extensive complex of brightening and exfoliating actives. This is true innovation in a category that is often little more than minimally effective technology spun with sexy marketing campaigns.
What I don’t like about it: I love everything about it.
Who it’s for: All skin types, except very sensitive skins.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum for $79 here.
THE OTHER 2024 CONTENDERS:
PRODUCT REVIEW: DRUNK ELEPHANT C-LUMA HYDRABRIGHT VITAMIN C SERUM
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA'S CHOICE CLINICAL PRO RETINALDEHYDE DUAL-RETINOID TREATMENT
PRODUCT REVIEW: GLOW RECIPE WATERMELON GLOW DEW BALM SUNSCREEN STICK SPF 45
PRODUCT REVIEW: REMEDY FOR DARK SPOTS NIGHTLY ALL IN ONE TREATMENT
PRODUCT REVIEW: UNTOXICATED MOISTURE BOOST HYDRATING CREAM
THE PERFECT EXFOLIATING CREAM FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
The Ingredient List of the Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum:
Water/Eau/Aqua,Lactic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycolic Acid, Maranta Arundinacea Root Extract, Tranexamic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Coconut Alkanes, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glutathione, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract, Orchis Mascula Flower Extract, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.
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