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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA'S CHOICE CLINICAL PRO RETINALDEHYDE DUAL-RETINOID TREATMENT - What is Retinaldehyde? Which is better, Retinol or Retinaldehyde? Is Retinaldehyde good for beginners?

PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA'S CHOICE CLINICAL PRO RETINALDEHYDE DUAL-RETINOID TREATMENT - What is Retinaldehyde? Which is better, Retinol or Retinaldehyde? Is Retinaldehyde good for beginners?

PAULA'S CHOICE PRO RETINALDEHYDE DUAL-RETINOID TREATMENT

I’m a long-time fan of the Paula’s Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment. How long? Well, it was the first Retinol treatment I ever tried – going back almost 10 years.

And it nearly burned my face off.

I had no idea what I was doing and literally slathered it on like a moisturizer. I woke up with a face so red and sensitive to the touch that I couldn’t even wash it.

And while my first experience with Retinol was scary, once I went through the acclimation process I became a fan for life.

Today, the Paula’s Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment is one of my “top-shelf” Retinol creams – those I reach for when I want a well-formulated, pro-strength Retinol treatment in my nightly anti-aging routine.

I’m also fan of the mid-strength Paula’s Choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment and the Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum – more of a Retinol serum for beginners, or those looking for a Retinol treatment for day. (Yes, you can use Retinol in the morning!)

The Paula’s Choice brand really owns the category for anti-aging creams and serums with Retinol.

Over the past year, numerous brands have introduced more powerful anti-aging treatments with Retinaldehyde – a next-generation retinoid molecule that is the closest to prescription-strength Retinoic Acid. And the new Paula's Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment is an innovative treatment for signs of aging. My detailed review is just below.

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Retinaldehyde seems to have come out from of the blue. Also known as Retinal, the active has appeared in numerous new product innovations over the past 12 months.

I first experienced Retinal last year in the Maelove Moonlight Retinal Serum and Naturium’s Retinaldehyde Cream Serum – which I reviewed on the blog here. Both products are a pleasure to use and I’ve never seen any adverse effects.

Since those early days of Retinol redness and irritation, my skin has certainly adapted. I can now tolerate retinoids of all kinds – any molecule, any intensity. And, yes, I often use a Retinol serum in my morning routine. With sunscreen, of course!

It’s all about getting your skin adjusted properly and being consistent with it. When you’re inconsistent, your skin reverts back to the beginning and you see irritation.

Like anything that requires dedication, it’s about finding what works and finding what you love. When you do, you’re well positioned to take full advantage of the power of retinoids to reverse damage and optimize your skin’s youthful qualities…


DON’T EVEN THINK OF SKIPPING SPF WHEN USING RETINOL!


Before I get into my detailed Paula's Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment product review just below, I wanted to explore some of the most frequently asked questions about Retinaldehyde – the advanced retinoid technology behind the new Paula's Choice anti-aging face serum.


1. What is Retinaldehyde?

Retinaldehyde is a retinoid, similar to prescription Tretinoin and alternative OTC actives like Retinol and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR). Retinoids, including Retinaldehyde, help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a unified and more even skin tone.

Short for Retinal (with an A), Retinaldehyde is considered a mid-strength retinoid between Retinol and Retinoic Acid and is less irritating than other forms of retinoids. Because it’s less likely to sensitize the skin, it’s a better option for those with sensitive skin or an intolerance for potent Retinol face creams or prescription treatments.

Upon application, Retinaldehyde is converted into Retinoic Acid in the skin where it gets to work delivering its skin-restoring anti-aging benefits.

Explore my top picks of the best Retinol creams and serums on the blog here.

Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine - Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety; Byrdie - Meet Retinaldehyde: Retinol’s More Potent Relative

2. Which is better, Retinol or Retinaldehyde?

Generally, Retinaldehyde is considered to be better than Retinol. Not only is it a more potent form of retinoid than Retinol, but it is less irritating and sensitizing to the skin.

According to a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Retinaldehyde was found to be more effective than Retinol in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin elasticity while being better tolerated by the skin. Both Retinaldehyde and Retinol have been shown to be equally effective in stimulating collagen production and improving skin texture and tone.

An article in The Zoe Report titled, What Is Retinaldehyde — & Is It Really Stronger Than Retinol? states that, “Retinaldehydes are retinoids up to 20 times more powerful than retinol due to [their] closer proximity to retinoic acid.”

Ultimately, the choice between Retinol and Retinaldehyde may depend on your individual skin sensitivity and product preference.

Explore my top picks of the best Retinol creams and serums on the blog here.

Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine - Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety; Healthline - Retinoids for Wrinkles: Effectiveness, Safety, and Product Picks; The Zoe Report - What Is Retinaldehyde — & Is It Really Stronger Than Retinol?

3. Is Retinaldehyde good for beginners?

Yes, Retinaldehyde can be good for beginners – and people at all stages in their Retinol journey.

As with Retinol, it’s important to start low and go slow. Begin with a lower concentration like 0.05% Retinaldehyde. The Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% is a great starting point. And remember, consistency is crucial as you build tolerance for retinoids. If you stop or skip too many days between applications, your skin cannot adapt appropriately and you will continue to sustain sensitivity. Many people see this as a sign that they simply can’t use Retinol.

For true beginners, some brands offer products with even lower concentrations of 0.01% or 0.03% – including Medik8. The Medik8 Crystal Retinal Serums 1 and 3 offer both concentrations for beginners and sensitive skins.

Explore my top picks of the best Retinol creams and serums on the blog here.

Sources: Medik8: Retinaldehyde Skincare: What is It? How to Use it & Benefits;

4. Is Retinaldehyde more irritating than Retinol?

No, Retinaldehyde is considered to be less irritating to the skin than other forms of retinoids like Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (aka Granactive Retinoid or HPR) and prescription Tretinoin.

According to a study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Retinaldehyde was found to have a lower likelihood of skin irritation and sensitization compared to other retinoids. This makes it a better option for those with sensitive skin or an intolerance for the most potent anti-aging creams with Retinol.

However, as with any clinical-strength active ingredient, sensitivity can vary from person to person. Thus, it is always a good idea to patch test new products on the skin opposite your elbow before applying them to your entire face.

Explore my top picks of the best Retinol creams and serums on the blog here.

Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine - Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety


5. Product Review

As I’ve said, consistency is key when it comes to retinoids. You have to stick with a product in order to allow your skin to adjust to it appropriately. As with anything, when you don’t commit to it, you don’t benefit.

Using retinoids like Retinol and Retinaldehyde is like going to the gym or eating better. If you love your gym and it’s convenient, you’re more likely to go. When switching up your diet, it’s important to enjoy the foods you’re eating. Especially if you love to eat!

So finding, a retinoid that works for you starts with one that’s well-formulated. Of course, Paula's Choice products are some of the best and most reliable. And the new Paula's Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment is among the best Retinal face serums on the market today. Period.

With a 0.1% concentration of Retinaldehyde (Retinal), the Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment is a strong, high-potency retinoid serum. It’s important to note, though, that Retinaldehyde is not ideal for beginners or those who can’t commit to a daily Retinol regimen.

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What does Retinaldehyde do for your skin? Well, as with more potent retinoids, you can expect to see a brighter, more even skin tone and improved skin texture with less surface roughness.

But the anti-aging effects of Retinaldehyde are where you’ll really benefit from the greater efficacy offered by the Paula's Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment. Retinaldehyde has powerful anti-aging properties. These include the stimulation of collagen production, improved skin elasticity and a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the surface.

Notably, the powerful retinoid helps to thicken the dermis to slow the formation of new, deeper wrinkles and improve moisture retention. And, as with Retinol and prescription Tretinoin, Retinaldehyde is beneficial for acne-prone skin.

If your skin is acclimated to retinoids, the new Paula's Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment is a great step up. The formula is actually a blend of two advanced retinoid molecules, Retinaldehyde and Adapinoid – a next-generation topical retinoid that has been marketed as ideal for acne-prone skin.

I reviewed one of the first Adapinoid acne treatments on the blog last year – the Skinfix acne+ Adapinoid Gel. If you’re curious about the benefits of Adapinoid, and the Skinfix product in particular, catch my review here.



I’ve been using the Paula’s Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment regularly for the past two months and it’s become one of my go-to retinoid treatments. I’ve used it as often as every other night for two consecutive weeks and seen minimal irritation, though it wasn’t a deal-breaker.

I tend to test out a lot of products, so it’s hard to say if the mild redness was the result of this particular retinoid product alone or a combination of actives. But, in general, my skin has tolerated it well.

With several emollient plant oils, it has a thicker texture than a conventional serum; it’s more like a lotion. In fact, since I began using it in the heat of summer, on many nights it doubled as my moisturizer.

If you’re in the mood to amp up your anti-aging routine, the new Paula’s Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment is a great option for you. If you’re just starting out, consider one of the less aggressive retinoids I alluded to throughout the article.

Whatever you do, remember consistency is key!


6. Pros & Cons

What I like about it: The Paula’s Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment is one of the most well-formulated retinoids I’ve tried. It layers well and has a very pleasant feel. It’s a serious anti-aging treatment, on par with prescription-strength Tretinoin.

What I don’t like about it: I wouldn’t change a thing.

Who it’s for: Most skin types, except sensitive skin. This product is not for beginners.

SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Paula’s Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment for $68 here.


FIND OUT WHICH SERUM PERFORMED BETTER – AND BY HOW MUCH!


The Ingredient List of the Paula's Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment:

Water (Aqua/Eau), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Retinal, Oleyl Adapalenate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Albatrellus Confluens (Mushroom) Extract, Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyapatite, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Glyceryl Ether, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Sodium Polyacrylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Hydroxystearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Oleate, Naringin, Citric Acid, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).



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