PRODUCT REVIEW: SKINFIX ACNE+ ADAPINOID GEL - What does adapalene do for acne? Is adapalene stronger than retinol?
SKINFIX ACNE+ ADAPINOID GEL
Acne innovation has really accelerated over the last few years. Importantly, it is now commonly understood that a lot of acne is a sign of a damaged, disrupted or otherwise compromised skin barrier.
And it’s a far more complicated disease, requiring different types of approaches.
Skincare marketers and formulators have moved away from aggressive treatments. The best acne face creams and targeted acne treatments today help to calm skin and rebalance the skin barrier, while preventing and treating existing acne breakouts.
It’s cool to see the market mature as much as it has. Only a decade ago, when I was working in-house at Kiehl’s, products like the Kiehl’s Blue Astringent Herbal Lotion and Clinique Clarifying Lotion were some of the bestselling acne treatments. Both products rely on very high concentrations of drying denatured alcohol to attack acne – and damage your skin barrier along the way.
Pro-skin health acne treatments really started to take off three or four years ago. Innovative brands like Balm Labs, Curology, Peace Out and Zitsticka were bringing cool, new products to market that didn’t strip your face and damage your skin barrier to treat a pimple. In fact, the Balm Labs 3-Step System for acne earned its place as the 2020 Skincarma Product of the Year!
Last year, one of the best skincare brands for skin barrier health, Skinfix, introduced its acne+ collection. Initially, the range included just two products, the acne+ 2% BHA Cleanser and acne+ 2% BHA Acne Spot Treatment. Infused with Niacinamide, Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid – all of which have particular benefits for oily and acne-prone skin – the formulas are clinically proven effective at treating acne while being gentle and nurturing to the skin barrier.
But the brand held back the real innovation until just a few weeks ago with the launch of the Skinfix acne+ Adapinoid Gel. It’s a true breakthrough acne treatment – and more. (See below for my detailed product review!)
THE BEST ACNE TREATMENTS
Like many of the skincare actives used in the formula, the Skinfix acne+ Adapinoid Gel has benefits for skin beyond the treatment of acne. Common actives like Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid – as well as retinoids like Adapalene and Retinol – are highly effective at addressing the concerns of an oily and acne-prone skin, but they actually benefit all skins.
Take Salicylic Acid for instance. The most popular of the class of beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) has been pigeon-holed as an FDA-approved drug for the treatment of acne. And it’s true; it’s highly effective at treating acne. But that’s a very narrow focus for a powerful ingredient that benefits all skin types.
It’s so effective for treating acne that marketers rarely consider it for anything or anyone else. They love to promote face creams for acne and even acne spot treatments with Salicylic Acid. It’s always the star ingredient. When well-formulated, the best Salicylic Acid products are often also the best acne treatments available over the counter.
What percentage of people suffer from acne?
Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States, affecting up to 50 million Americans annually.
Approximately 85 percent of people between the ages of 12 and 24 experience at least minor acne.
Acne occurring in adults is increasing, affecting up to 15 percent of women.
Source: American Academy of Dermatology
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA LIQUID EXFOLIANT
Why is Salicylic Acid good for acne?
Because Salicylic Acid has the ability to penetrate pores to dissolve and dislodge hardened sebum, a common concern of oily skin. When your pores become clogged with sebum, they’re hotbeds for trapping bacteria, dirt and pollutants. That’s why clogged pores are one of the most common causes for acne breakouts.
But acne-prone and oily skins aren’t the only ones that benefit from clear pores. We all do!
The truth is all skin needs fresh, clear pores to function at its best. I call this “pore maintenance” – the daily action I take to refine my pores. By focusing on pore health with ingredients like Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide, I’m better able to optimize my overall skin health.
A cornerstone of my daily pore maintenance routine is the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. I use it twice daily after my cleanser and hydrating toner. And guess what! I don’t have oily or acne-prone skin. I credit the bestselling Paula’s Choice product with optimizing my skin health.
PRODUCT REVIEW: SKINFIX BARRIER+ TRIPLE LIPID + COLLAGEN ACTIVATING SERUM
Retinol is another perfect example of an ingredient that delivers benefits for varying skin types. Retinoids like Retinol, Tretinoin and Adapalene are common, effective acne treatments; but they have exceptional benefits for all skins including addressing fine lines and wrinkles.
Why is Retinol good for acne and are retinoids good for acne prone skin?
Yes, Retinol and retinoids in general are superb treatments for acne and acne-prone skin. Derivatives of Vitamin A, retinoids have exceptional skin-renewing properties. The most effective retinoids for acne are Retinol, Adapalene and prescription-strength Tretinoin. They’re proven to help reduce acne breakouts and are often the most effective at treating more severe cases of acne. The strongest of the retinoids, Tretinoin, is commonly prescribed by dermatologists to treat chronic acne.
How do retinoids work? Well, retinoids promote cell turnover and prevent the clogging of pores – key factors in the development of acne. Additionally, Retinoids like Retinol and Adapalene are believed to have anti-inflammatory effects, which can help to reduce the redness and swelling associated with acne breakouts.
PACKS A PUNCH (WITHOUT THE IRRITATION!)
Before I get into my detailed Skinfix acne+ Adapinoid Gel product review just below, I wanted to explore the newest retinoid, Adapalene, and how it compares to Retinol for the treatment of acne…
1. What is the difference between adapalene and adapinoid?
Adapalene is an FDA-approved topical retinoid that is effective for treating acne vulgaris, or common acne. Adapinoid is a precursor of Adapalene and characterized as a “barrier-boosting retinoid” that is also effective at reducing blemishes while helping to balance and normalize the skin barrier.
Adapinoid is a second generation retinoid that has better stability than Adapalene and is less irritating to skin than first-generation retinoids like Retinol and Retinoic Acid. Adapinoid has been reported to increase collagen, reduce signs of photoaging, unify skin tone, soothe inflammation, and diminish the appearance of pores.
The science behind Adapinoid is new and extensive research is ongoing to ascertain its full benefits for the skin – and for acne-prone skin in particular.
Explore my top picks of the best acne treatments on the blog here.
Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine - Acne Vulgaris; Curist - Adapalene vs Retinol; Healthline - The Secrets to Deciphering — and Stopping — Skin Purging
2. What does adapalene do to your skin?
Similar to other topical retinoids, Adapalene works by promoting cell turnover and preventing clogged pores, an important factor in the development of acne. Adapalene is more stable in the presence of light and air compared to prescription Tretinoin, the most common retinoid used in the treatment of acne. Due to its superior stability, it may be a more effective treatment for acne as it can retain its potency for longer.
Adapalene deeply and rapidly penetrates pores, where acne begins. Its efficacy is derived from the fact that it retains high concentration deep in the pores to help clear and prevent acne.
Explore my top picks of the best acne treatments on the blog here.
Sources: Differin - Adapalene: the retinoid for full-on acne domination; MedlinePlus - Adapalene
3. What does adapalene do for acne?
Adapalene is a topical retinoid that functions in much the same way as prescription-strength Tretinoin, yet without the level of irritation that is common to the prescribed drug. Due to its similar efficacy without risk of irritation, it is increasingly popular for the treatment of acne in adults and children 12 years and older.
Adapalene and its precursor Adapinoid work by promoting cell turnover and preventing the clogging of pores. Adapalene rapidly penetrates deep into pores where acne begins.
How do clogged pores cause acne? Clogged pores are one of the most common causes for acne. Bacteria, dirt and pollutants, which penetrate pores during the day, accumulate and become embedded in hardened sebum – a common concern of oily and acne-prone skins. This often leads to acne breakouts, blackheads and whiteheads.
By promoting cell turnover and preventing pores from clogging in the first place, Adapalene is an effective acne prevention treatment that helps to break the acne cycle – without irritation.
Explore my top picks of the best acne treatments on the blog here.
Sources: MedlinePlus - Adapalene; Differin - Adapalene: the retinoid for full-on acne domination
4. Is adapalene stronger than retinol?
Studies show that Adapalene is generally considered to be stronger and more effective than Retinol. While the two retinoids are reliable acne treatments, Adapalene has shown to be less irritating to the skin – particularly when compared to the prescription-strength retinoid Tretinoin.
According to a study published in the journal Clinical Interventions in Aging, Adapalene was found to be more effective than Retinol in reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.
Both Adapalene and Retinol are available in over-the-counter products and are effective at treating and preventing acne while improving skin texture and tone.
Explore my top picks of the best Retinol face creams and serums on the blog here.
Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine - Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety; Byrdie - Retinol vs. Retinoids: We Asked Derms to Explain the Difference
5. Product Review
Skinfix Acne+ Adapinoid Gel Review
As I’ve shared on multiple occasions, I consider Skinfix to be among the best skincare brands for skin barrier health – if not the best. The brand simply offers some of the best barrier-strengthening products and most effective barrier repair creams on the market today. If you have a concern for your skin barrier health, know that Skinfix shares that concern.
Among my favorite barrier-repair skincare products from the brand are the popular Skinfix barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream and relatively new Skinfix barrier+ Triple Lipid + Collagen Activating Serum – which I recently reviewed on the blog here.
The brand’s iconic Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream (TLPC) is among the best replenishing face creams and often the single product I recommend to friends and family who ask for my recommendation of the best moisturizer for their skin. With its lipid-rich texture, the product helps repair, maintain and optimize skin barrier health like no other face cream I’ve tried.
A damaged skin barrier is the root of all evils.
Many of the most common skin concerns can be directly, or indirectly, linked to a damaged barrier. The skin barrier serves as the body’s first line of defense against external irritants and environmental aggressors. When this defensive barrier is compromised, signs can become quickly apparent.
What are the signs your skin barrier is damaged?
One of the most common signs of a damaged skin barrier is increased sensitivity and inflammation. You may experience redness, itchiness, and a tight or stinging sensation. Still another common sign is excessive dryness, as the barrier is unable to hold moisture in the skin, resulting in flakiness, dehydration and rough skin texture.
Additionally, a compromised or damaged barrier may lead to an increase in breakouts, as harmful bacteria and pollutants find their way into the skin more easily through microscopic cracks, tears and breaks in the damaged skin’s surface layer. This is also a leading cause of eczema.
And in the extreme, those with a severely weakened skin barrier may find that their usual skincare products begin to cause stinging or burning sensations, and increased skin sensitivity.
So what causes a damaged skin barrier? Well, in addition to climate, stress, environmental toxins, and allergens, one of the most common causes for skin barrier damage is the use and overuse of aggressive skincare treatments – including harsh Glycolic Acid treatments and retinoid creams to treat acne.
If that sounds like you, you may want to consider a more gentle exfoliating treatment with Glycolic Acid. I recently reviewed the CeraVe Skin Renewing Nightly Exfoliating Treatment on the blog here. It’s one of the best Glycolic Acid treatments for sensitive skin.
THE PERFECT EXFOLIATING CREAM FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
Given that acne is often the result of a damaged or compromised skin barrier, it can be challenging to treat acne without causing further damage. Very often the best acne treatments are also the most irritating. Powerful retinoids like Tretinoin are notorious for irritating and sensitizing the skin.
When you treat acne and damage your skin barrier doing it, you create the conditions for more acne. This is commonly referred to as the acne cycle. When I was a teenager, the best acne treatments available were loaded with drying denatured alcohol. which is one of the most damaging ingredients used in skincare. They weren’t very effective but it’s all I had.
There’s a superb article by the experts on the Paula’s Choice research team titled, Alcohol in Skin Care: The Facts, which explains how and why alcohol is so bad for your skin health. Check it out here.
In order to break the acne cycle and treat acne without damaging your skin barrier further, you need a gentle acne cream that promotes skin barrier health as effectively as it treats acne. And I trust no brand more to do that than Skinfix – which is why I believe the new acne+ Adapinoid Gel might just be the best acne treatment to hit the market in years.
The Skinfix Acne+ Adapinoid Gel is powered by Adapinoid at a concentration of 0.16%. The potent retinoid helps reduce acne blemishes and prevent them from forming by keeping pores clear. The product’s pore-clearing benefit is amplified by a 2% concentration of Niacinamide – one of my go-to actives in my daily pore maintenance routine.
There are also multiple hydrating humectants in the formula that help hold water in the skin to keep the barrier hydrated and balanced. These include an innovative hydrator I’d never heard of called Strataphix Poly. The proprietary active has been clinically shown to combat retinol-induced dryness, redness, and irritation by improving skin hydration by up to 93%.
The pairing of Adapinoid and Strataphix Poly is a simply brilliant formulation strategy. Combined with moisturizing emollients, the formula helps balance the skin barrier, improve skin texture and optimize hydration.
The texture is super light and velvety and melts right into the skin. I’ve been using it in place of my moisturizer in my PM routine.
Similarly to retinoids like Tretinoin, the Skinfix Acne+ Adapinoid Gel is more than an acne cream. It’s also great for repairing sun damage and signs of photoaging, making it one of the best new anti-aging creams of 2023. If you’re not a big fan of Retinol, prescription-strength Tretinoin, or have sensitive or otherwise irritated skin, this is for you!
THE BEST ACNE TREATMENTS
6. Pros & Cons
What I like about it: The Skinfix acne+ Adapinoid Gel is a remarkably innovative acne treatment cream that optimizes skin barrier health while clearing and preventing acne breakouts. This is how you break the acne cycle. I also love its dual use as an effective, gentle anti-aging cream. That’s how I’m using it!
What I don’t like about it: I love everything about it.
Who it’s for: All skin types, even sensitive skins.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Skinfix acne+ Adapinoid Gel for $48 here.
The Ingredient List of the Skinfix acne+ Adapinoid Gel:
sii|emo 0 1, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Pulp Extract, Niacinamide 
cci|sb|aacne|h, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate emu, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract, Oleyl Adapalenate, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract so, Galactoarabinan aox, Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex aox|col, Maltodextrin, Schizophyllan h, Polylysine, Tripeptide-1 cci, Xanthan Gum vc, Sodium Citrate chel|buff, Magnesium Stearate col|h 0 1, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Butylene Glycol h|solv 0 1, Dextran vc, Citric Acid buff, Phenoxyethanol pres
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