PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY SALICYLIC ACID 2% ANHYDROUS SOLUTION - WHAT IS SALICYLIC ACID? WHAT DOES SALICYLIC ACID DO TO YOUR SKIN?
THE ORDINARY | SALICYLIC ACID 2% ANHYDROUS SOLUTION
Photo credit: ©2022 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, The Best Salicylic Acid Treatments from The Ordinary - What Is Salicylic Acid? What Does Salicylic Acid Do to Your Skin? You can catch the full piece here.
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I’ve seen my share of skincare innovations, marketing trends and even entire brands come and go. Skincare marketing fascinates me. But what really intrigues me is how consumers respond to and absorb what marketers put out there. A prime example of this is the average skincare consumer’s understanding of the ingredient Salicylic Acid.
Because there has been such limited innovation in face products for acne, most skincare marketers have focused on face serums, cleansers and moisturizers formulated with Salicylic Acid, one of very few FDA-approved drugs for the treatment of acne. In the United States, acne is considered a medical condition and the products to treat it are heavily regulated. (Hence the lack of innovation!)
I love Salicylic Acid! In my experience, one of the best exfoliating, pore-refining toners with Salicylic Acid is the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. A sweep of it over skin twice a day goes a long way to limiting the occurrence of acne breakouts and helping to heal existing acne blemishes. Catch my review of it on the blog here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA LIQUID EXFOLIANT
And while Salicylic Acid is one of the most effective ingredients for treating acne blemishes, it’s not just for acne-prone skin. That’s where the marketing comes into play. Salicylic Acid happens to be a superior pro-skin health ingredient that should be incorporated into any skincare routine, no matter your skin type or skin concerns. Like Niacinamide and Vitamin C, it’s that versatile. Yet it’s rarely, if ever, taken up by skincare marketers for anything more than acne treatment products.
What Is Salicylic Acid and Is Salicylic Acid Good for Acne?
Salicylic Acid, a beta-hydroxy acid, or BHA, is perpetually the active of choice for controlling acne- and oily-prone skin. And while it’s one of the most effective anti-acne ingredients, it’s so effective at optimizing skin health that it should be a staple in every pro-skin health routine, not just an acne routine.
What does Salicylic Acid do for the rest of us – those who don’t struggle with acne every day? Well, the best BHA happens to be superb at unclogging pores. We all have pores. And all our pores get clogged. For me, Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide form a one-two punch in my daily skincare regimen that keeps my pores clear and my skin fresh. It’s one of the few acids that can effectively dissolve hardened sebum inside pores to release oil, dirt, and bacteria — all of which can result in a blemish. But more than that, by clearing and refreshing pores, skin functions better and is able to respond to both internal and external aggressors more effectively. That translates into healthier skin. Skincare marketers aren’t often interested in that part of the equation.
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Salicylic Acid is among the best ingredients for promoting skin health and specifically the treatment of acne blemishes:
Salicylic acid (also called beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a desmolytic ingredient, which means it is able to exfoliate by dissolving the bonds that hold the dead cells to skin’s surface. Because salicylic acid is oil soluble, it also has the ability to penetrate into the pore lining and exfoliate inside the pore. This makes it especially effective for reducing breakouts, including blackheads and whiteheads.
Salicylic acid is recognized as an over-the-counter topical acne product by the U.S. FDA, when used in concentrations of 0.5-2%. Even though salicylic acid is best known for its ability to address acne-prone skin concerns, it offers many additional properties that any skin type can benefit from. Case in point, by exfoliating the buildup of dead skin on the surface, it also helps reverse the appearance of dull, uneven skin tone, as well as other visible signs of aging skin.
Unlike physical exfoliants (such as a rough facial scrub), salicylic acid offers hydrating properties that enhance the result of smooth, soft skin. Another unique advantage is salicylic acid’s ability to gently soothe aggravated skin thanks to its inherent calming properties.
Salicylic acid works most effectively as a leave-on treatment, ideally within a pH range between 3 and 4. Rinse-off salicylic acid cleansers typically have a higher pH, which likely won’t offer much of an exfoliation benefit, not to mention the contact time with skin is very brief - but the salicylic acid may at least offer skin-calming benefits in this form and can be included in amounts as low as 0.5% to achieve this benefit.
Research shows using salicylic acid starting at a 1-2% concentration is recommended for regular exfoliation within a skin care routine. For more stubborn concerns, higher concentrations can make a dramatic difference. In dermatologic practices, salicylic acid has been safely used in as high as 50% concentrations for removal of warts, corns, pigmented lesions, and other advanced concerns.
Salicylic acid has been found to be safe on all skin tones and ethnicities.
Best Products from The Ordinary
One of the most comprehensive Salicylic Acid collections comes from one of my favorite and most trusted brands, The Ordinary. I have so many favorites from The Ordinary! Among my regular go-to’s are The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toning Solution, the brand’s best Vitamin C serum, Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution, and wildly popular Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% — very likely the top-selling Niacinamide serum in the world.
Don’t quote me on that, it’s just an educated guess from someone who’s been in the business awhile.
The company’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is one of the most popular face serums for oily skin — and likely all skins — on Sephora’s website. I would venture to guess it’s the best-selling acne treatment on Earth.
How Do I Know The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Toner Works as a Deodorant?
Now, that’s not to say that I think The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is the best acne treatment available, but skincare marketers have done such a great job of conditioning us all to think that Salicylic Acid equals acne that I know it’s among the top-selling products in the world.
While the brand’s water-based Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a longtime fave for oily- and acne-prone skin, The Ordinary just introduced a new Salicylic Acid-powered serum, the Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution. It’s an oil-based, or water-free, treatment that uses Squalane as the formula base. It has a really light, velvety texture and functions very much like a moisturizer with Salicylic Acid that helps to clear clogged pores.
Rounding out The Ordinary’s trio of Salicylic Acid treatments is the brand’s super messy but irresistible Salicylic Acid 2% Masque. It’s like that messy friend who causes all kinds of drama but the day after you think you had an amazing time, and at least no one ended up in jail.
I’ll take a deep dive into each of The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid products below. But first, I’m excited to share my latest collaboration with my good friend, photographer Antonio Jefferson of New York-based Antonio Jefferson Studio.
Antonio has shot products for the Skincarma Blog on multiple occasions, including some of 2021’s coolest Vitamin C serums in a blog article last summer titled, New Vitamin C Serums I’m Crushing on from Wander Beauty, Glossier, Kat Burki and More. You can catch the piece, and Antonio’s stunning product shots here.
COLLAB WITH ANTONIO JEFFERSON STUDIO: NEW VITAMIN C SERUMS I’M CRUSHING ON FROM WANDER BEAUTY, GLOSSIER, KAT BURKI & MORE
Several of The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid product shots in the blog are Antonio’s images, including the stunning cover shot for the article. I’ve indicated Antonio’s shots throughout the article and am excited to have the opportunity to share his work again with Skincarma followers.
Be sure to check out Antonio’s portfolio of fashion and product images on his site here — and follow his journey on his IG page, too!
With that, let’s take a look at one of the three products that comprise The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid collection…
Photo credit: ©2022 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
The Ordinary | Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution
The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a bit of an icon for acne-prone skin and congested pores. As I said in my product review of it, due to its high humectant content in the form of the bio-compatible carbohydrate Saccharide Isomerate, it’s non-drying – something you can’t say about many face serums with Salicylic Acid.
The original water-based Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is tailored for all skin types, though it’s particularly suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. That’s right, I said “original.” One of The Ordinary’s most popular products, it’s been on the market for quite a few years. I’d even venture to guess that it was among the 27 products that Deciem introduced under The Ordinary brand when it launched in August 2016. It’s the OG.
Recently, The Ordinary introduced an oil-based, water-free version called, Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution. Like so many of The Ordinary’s products, the formula uses Squalane as a base, at ingredient number one of ten.
Best Products From The Ordinary
What is Squalane? It’s a superb, replenishing, non-fragrant plant oil most often extracted from olives. According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Squalane is one of the best ingredients used in skincare:
“Squalane is an emollient that helps prevent moisture loss and restores suppleness to skin. It is also a source of beneficial fatty acids that replenish skin. One unique aspect of squalane is that it’s a modified form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum (oil). This makes squalane a biocompatible ingredient that skin instantly recognizes and knows how to use.
Most skin care brands use a plant-derived source of squalane such as olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils. It can also be produced from Saccharomyces cerevisae (a type of yeast) or animal-derived, but this not the source Paula’s Choice Skincare uses.
Despite its sebum-like nature, squalane feels surprisingly lightweight and non-greasy. Squalane can also help strengthen skin’s barrier to help it be less prone to sensitivity and reactiveness.”
What does anhydrous mean and what the difference between The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution and the original Salicylic Acid 2% Solution?
The wonky term anhydrous means simply, “without water.” And the product does much the same thing. Unlike the original, the new Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution is ideal for dry skin. It’s essentially a moisturizer with Salicylic Acid that gently exfoliates the skin surface and unclogs pores. Of course, those two things are the main benefits of the original water-based Salicylic Acid serum.
Yet while the Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is ideal for all skin types, the new oil-based Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution is more suitable for a drier skin type and particularly dry and very dry skin. There is evidence, as well, that Salicylic Acid is more gentle for sensitive skin when delivered in an oil base. As a direct acid, water can apparently make Salicylic Acid more sensitizing. Humph.
The Best Face Creams For Dry Skin
What Does Anhydrous Mean in Skincare and Is Anhydrous Good for Skin?
Put simply, the term anhydrous means “without water,” where hydro is a derivative of the Greek word for water. And why would you want to go without water if the human body is composed of about 60% water and the element is essential for life? Well, it’s not about us, really. It’s a matter of chemistry.
Generally speaking, if a skincare product is water-free; that is, oil-based, it is often more potent. But not always so. In the labs and in nature, ingredients like Niacinamide, Vitamin C and Salicylic Acid are what are termed “oil-soluble” or “water-soluble.” That means they dissolve in either water or oil.
What are water-soluble ingredients?
An ingredient that is “water-soluble” is one that dissolves in water. Water-soluble vitamins, for example, are more readily absorbed by the body and are put to use more effectively. According to the NIH website, “water-soluble vitamins include Vitamin C and Vitamin B complex (thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid, pyridoxine, biotin, folate, and cobalamin).”
Water-soluble ingredients and water-based products can help to rehydrate the skin and are ideal for all skin types.
What are oil-soluble ingredients?
“Oil-soluble” (also referred to as lipid-soluble and fat-soluble) ingredients can only be dissolved in oil. Among the most common oil-soluble ingredients used in skincare are vitamins like Vitamin A and Vitamin E. These fat-soluble vitamins are similar to oil and are unable to dissolve in water. Abundant in high-fat foods, Vitamins D and K are also oil-soluble.
Oil-soluble ingredients and oil-based products are most appropriate for drier skins as the fats help to replenish and moisturize dry skin.
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution has such a wonderfully replenishing texture. It’s velvety on application, reminiscent of the brand’s Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane and The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane facial oil — which I reviewed on the blog in an article titled, Three Hot Facial Serums From The Ordinary That I'm Crushing On, Too! (If you missed it, you can catch it here.)
If you’re familiar with either of those products, you know all about that velvety texture. They both feel amazing on the skin. And there are very few retinoids in my experience that are as pleasurable to use as the The Ordinary’s Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane. Only the Wander Beauty Do Not Disturb Overnight Repair Concentrate is a more luxurious experience.
A is The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, the new Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution is similarly non-drying. Yet, unlike the water-based version, it’s not as easily layered into a skincare routine. Because of its heavy oily texture, it is best applied as the last step of your regimen – or just before a heavier face cream, if needed. Through my own experience of it, I’d say it’s enough moisture for even a dry skin type, especially in warmer weather.
What I like about it: The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution is the best facial oil with Salicylic Acid that I’ve come across. It’s truly unique and I’m unaware of any similar products like it. What I appreciate most about it is it’s positioned (and formulated!) for drier skin types, not oily and acne-prone skins — the most common target of Salicylic Acid serums. This one is for all skin with pores. And whose skin doesn’t have pores?!
What I don’t like about it: I like everything about it.
Who it’s for: All skin types, except very oily and acne-prone skin. It’s especially ideal for dry skin.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution for $6.50 here.
The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque:
col|abrasive/scrub 0 0, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Glycerin 
sii|h 0 0, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Silica Cetyl Silylate vc, Salicylic Acid exf|aacne|so|pres, Sodium Polyacrylate vc, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Charcoal Powder abrasive/scrub, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol so|cci, Sclerotium Gum vc, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum vc, Phytic Acid chel, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Chlorphenesin pres|amic, Phenoxyethanol presWATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
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