THE BEST SALICYLIC ACID TREATMENTS FROM THE ORDINARY - WHAT IS SALICYLIC ACID? WHAT DOES SALICYLIC ACID DO TO YOUR SKIN?
Photo credit: ©2022 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
Skincare marketing is a curious thing. As I’ve shared previously, I’ve been a copywriter in beauty, and specifically in skincare, for quite some time now.
Gosh, it’s been 20 years this past May since I first moved to New York City to work for Kiehl’s as their first-ever copywriter.
Familiar with Facial Fuel? That was me. What about the Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate Vitamin C serum? I named that one, too.
In addition to coming up with the two product names, I also crafted the product concepts for each of those Kiehl’s best-sellers. Concepts are essential at the genesis of product development to target claims, hone messaging and position the product for a successful launch – and a successful shelf life. I like to think I was instrumental in creating two new Kiehl’s icons, right up there with the brand’s classic Creme de Corps body lotion for dry skin and Lip Balm #1 – IMO the best lip balm for chapped lips to this day. (Both of those pre-date my work on the brand.)
Since that fateful day in May 2002, I’ve worked with dozens of well-known brands. I’ve named products, helped to flesh out product concepts, developed marketing campaigns and even advised on formulas. (My cat, Orpheus, has been by my side through it all!)
Over my career as a beauty copywriter, in addition to Kiehl’s Since 1851, I’ve written for Skinfix, Ole Henriksen, SkinCeuticals, Peter Thomas Roth, Clarins, Laneige, Dr. Jart — and even Sephora. If you’re familiar with Sephora’s long-running tagline, “Let’s Beauty Together,” well, I worked on that campaign.
So I’ve seen my share of skincare innovations, marketing trends and even entire brands come and go. Skincare marketing fascinates me. But what really intrigues me is how consumers respond to and absorb what marketers put out there. A prime example of this is the average skincare consumer’s understanding of the ingredient Salicylic Acid.
Because there has been such limited innovation in face products for acne, most skincare marketers have focused on face serums, cleansers and moisturizers formulated with Salicylic Acid, one of very few FDA-approved drugs for the treatment of acne. In the United States, acne is considered a medical condition and the products to treat it are heavily regulated. (Hence the lack of innovation!)
I love Salicylic Acid! In my experience, one of the best exfoliating, pore-refining toners with Salicylic Acid is the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. A sweep of it over skin twice a day goes a long way to limiting the occurrence of acne breakouts and helping to heal existing acne blemishes. Catch my review of it on the blog here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA LIQUID EXFOLIANT
And while Salicylic Acid is one of the most effective ingredients for treating acne blemishes, it’s not just for acne-prone skin. That’s where the marketing comes into play. Salicylic Acid happens to be a superior pro-skin health ingredient that should be incorporated into any skincare routine, no matter your skin type or skin concerns. Like Niacinamide and Vitamin C, it’s that versatile. Yet it’s rarely, if ever, taken up by skincare marketers for anything more than acne treatment products.
What Is Salicylic Acid and Is Salicylic Acid Good for Acne?
Salicylic Acid, a beta-hydroxy acid, or BHA, is perpetually the active of choice for controlling acne- and oily-prone skin. And while it’s one of the most effective anti-acne ingredients, it’s so effective at optimizing skin health that it should be a staple in every pro-skin health routine, not just an acne routine.
What does Salicylic Acid do for the rest of us – those who don’t struggle with acne every day? Well, the best BHA happens to be superb at unclogging pores. We all have pores. And all our pores get clogged. For me, Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide form a one-two punch in my daily skincare regimen that keeps my pores clear and my skin fresh. It’s one of the few acids that can effectively dissolve hardened sebum inside pores to release oil, dirt, and bacteria — all of which can result in a blemish. But more than that, by clearing and refreshing pores, skin functions better and is able to respond to both internal and external aggressors more effectively. That translates into healthier skin. Skincare marketers aren’t often interested in that part of the equation.
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Salicylic Acid is among the best ingredients for promoting skin health and specifically the treatment of acne blemishes:
Salicylic acid (also called beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a desmolytic ingredient, which means it is able to exfoliate by dissolving the bonds that hold the dead cells to skin’s surface. Because salicylic acid is oil soluble, it also has the ability to penetrate into the pore lining and exfoliate inside the pore. This makes it especially effective for reducing breakouts, including blackheads and whiteheads.
Salicylic acid is recognized as an over-the-counter topical acne product by the U.S. FDA, when used in concentrations of 0.5-2%. Even though salicylic acid is best known for its ability to address acne-prone skin concerns, it offers many additional properties that any skin type can benefit from. Case in point, by exfoliating the buildup of dead skin on the surface, it also helps reverse the appearance of dull, uneven skin tone, as well as other visible signs of aging skin.
Unlike physical exfoliants (such as a rough facial scrub), salicylic acid offers hydrating properties that enhance the result of smooth, soft skin. Another unique advantage is salicylic acid’s ability to gently soothe aggravated skin thanks to its inherent calming properties.
Salicylic acid works most effectively as a leave-on treatment, ideally within a pH range between 3 and 4. Rinse-off salicylic acid cleansers typically have a higher pH, which likely won’t offer much of an exfoliation benefit, not to mention the contact time with skin is very brief - but the salicylic acid may at least offer skin-calming benefits in this form and can be included in amounts as low as 0.5% to achieve this benefit.
Research shows using salicylic acid starting at a 1-2% concentration is recommended for regular exfoliation within a skin care routine. For more stubborn concerns, higher concentrations can make a dramatic difference. In dermatologic practices, salicylic acid has been safely used in as high as 50% concentrations for removal of warts, corns, pigmented lesions, and other advanced concerns.
Salicylic acid has been found to be safe on all skin tones and ethnicities.
Best Products from The Ordinary
One of the most comprehensive Salicylic Acid collections comes from one of my favorite and most trusted brands, The Ordinary. I have so many favorites from The Ordinary! Among my regular go-to’s are The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toning Solution, the brand’s best Vitamin C serum, Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution, and wildly popular Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% — very likely the top-selling Niacinamide serum in the world.
Don’t quote me on that, it’s just an educated guess from someone who’s been in the business awhile.
The company’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is one of the most popular face serums for oily skin — and likely all skins — on Sephora’s website. I would venture to guess it’s the best-selling acne treatment on Earth.
How Do I Know The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Toner Works as a Deodorant?
Now, that’s not to say that I think The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is the best acne treatment available, but skincare marketers have done such a great job of conditioning us all to think that Salicylic Acid equals acne that I know it’s among the top-selling products in the world.
While the brand’s water-based Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a longtime fave for oily- and acne-prone skin, The Ordinary just introduced a new Salicylic Acid-powered serum, the Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution. It’s an oil-based, or water-free, treatment that uses Squalane as the formula base. It has a really light, velvety texture and functions very much like a moisturizer with Salicylic Acid that helps to clear clogged pores.
Rounding out The Ordinary’s trio of Salicylic Acid treatments is the brand’s super messy but irresistible Salicylic Acid 2% Masque. It’s like that messy friend who causes all kinds of drama but the day after you think you had an amazing time, and at least no one ended up in jail.
I’ll take a deep dive into each of The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid products below. But first, I’m excited to share my latest collaboration with my good friend, photographer Antonio Jefferson of New York-based Antonio Jefferson Studio.
Antonio has shot products for the Skincarma Blog on multiple occasions, including some of 2021’s coolest Vitamin C serums in a blog article last summer titled, New Vitamin C Serums I’m Crushing on from Wander Beauty, Glossier, Kat Burki and More. You can catch the piece, and Antonio’s stunning product shots here.
COLLAB WITH ANTONIO JEFFERSON STUDIO: NEW VITAMIN C SERUMS I’M CRUSHING ON FROM WANDER BEAUTY, GLOSSIER, KAT BURKI & MORE
Several of The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid product shots in the blog are Antonio’s images, including the stunning cover shot for the article. I’ve indicated Antonio’s shots throughout the article and am excited to have the opportunity to share his work again with Skincarma followers.
Be sure to check out Antonio’s portfolio of fashion and product images on his site here — and follow his journey on his IG page, too!
With that, let’s take a look at each of the three products that comprise The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid collection…
Photo credit: ©2022 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
The Ordinary | Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
One of the things I appreciate most about The Ordinary is that the products are uncomplicated – not overly fussy and marketed to death. In fact, when I think about The Ordinary’s popular $5.90 Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, it’s the complete opposite of a product like Dr. Barbara Sturm’s over-hyped $145 Anti-Pollution Drops.
Both products have relatively simple INCI’s, with approximately a dozen or so ingredients. And both are exceptionally pro-skin health. But The Ordinary’s serum doesn’t need to be over-hyped to sell. It’s straightforward, affordable, and appealing in its simplicity and perceived efficacy. It does what you think it’s gonna do: deliver Salicylic Acid deep into your pores to clear them out and prevent acne blemishes.
Photo credit: ©2022 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
On the other hand, the Dr. Barbara Sturm serum is nearly all marketing hype. In fact, without the hype, it wouldn’t sell at all. And, to be honest, it shouldn’t sell at all. It’s not even worth much more in terms of its value for the skin than The Ordinary’s six-dollar serum. That’s not to say that the Dr. Barbara Sturm Anti-Pollution Drops isn’t a terrific humectant serum with a few potent antioxidants. It is. But for $145? Come on! (Psst…I broke it down on my TikTok page here.)
So I appreciate the simplicity, efficacy and accessibility of The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution. It’s been a part of my skincare routine for years now. I’ve recommended it as an acne-clearing treatment to dozens of friends, family and followers and have often urged incorporating it into a regular daily routine – not just during an acne blemish crisis.
The water-based Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a relatively simple formula comprised of just 12 ingredients: Aqua (Water), Saccharide Isomerate, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Salicylic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
What does The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution do? Well, the brand makes no hyperbolic promises: it “decongests and exfoliates.” But there’s more to it than that – and they make no mention of acne. (Due in large part to the regulatory nature of acne claims.)
In truth, while it’s an effective skin surface exfoliator and deep pore de-clogger, there’s something quite special about The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution that’s entirely overlooked. In fact, it’s never even mentioned.
Users of Salicylic Acid often complain that it can dry out their skin. And, I’ve even had people tell me that it can be irritating if used every day. Look, everyone’s skin is different. And everyone’s skin can react differently to various skincare ingredients, especially potent actives like Salicylic Acid. Oftentimes, these reactions are idiosyncratic – specific to you.
But this particular Salicylic Acid serum doesn’t seem to be drying – even when I’ve used it twice a day for multiple days consecutively. Could it be the second ingredient, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water? That’s commonly known as witch hazel a popukar astringent and skin soother.
What I like about it: The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is simple, effective and superbly pro-skin health. It’s one of the best acne serums with Salicylic Acid and even makes an effective pore-clearing, gentle exfoliating treatment for daily use. But what I appreciate most about the formula is how surprisingly non-drying it is.
What I don’t like about it: I love everything about it.
Who it’s for: All skin types, but especially oily and/or acne prone skins.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution for $5.90 here.
The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution:
exf|aacne|so|pres, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Citric Acid buff, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Hydroxyethylcellulose vc, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo
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Photo credit: ©2022 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
The Ordinary | Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution
The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a bit of an icon for acne-prone skin and congested pores. As I said in my product review of it, due to its high humectant content in the form of the bio-compatible carbohydrate Saccharide Isomerate, it’s non-drying – something you can’t say about many face serums with Salicylic Acid.
The original water-based Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is tailored for all skin types, though it’s particularly suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. That’s right, I said “original.” One of The Ordinary’s most popular products, it’s been on the market for quite a few years. I’d even venture to guess that it was among the 27 products that Deciem introduced under The Ordinary brand when it launched in August 2016. It’s the OG.
Recently, The Ordinary introduced an oil-based, water-free version called, Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution. Like so many of The Ordinary’s products, the formula uses Squalane as a base, at ingredient number one of ten.
Best Products From The Ordinary
What is Squalane? It’s a superb, replenishing, non-fragrant plant oil most often extracted from olives. According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Squalane is one of the best ingredients used in skincare:
“Squalane is an emollient that helps prevent moisture loss and restores suppleness to skin. It is also a source of beneficial fatty acids that replenish skin. One unique aspect of squalane is that it’s a modified form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum (oil). This makes squalane a biocompatible ingredient that skin instantly recognizes and knows how to use.
Most skin care brands use a plant-derived source of squalane such as olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils. It can also be produced from Saccharomyces cerevisae (a type of yeast) or animal-derived, but this not the source Paula’s Choice Skincare uses.
Despite its sebum-like nature, squalane feels surprisingly lightweight and non-greasy. Squalane can also help strengthen skin’s barrier to help it be less prone to sensitivity and reactiveness.”
What does anhydrous mean and what the difference between The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution and the original Salicylic Acid 2% Solution?
The wonky term anhydrous means simply, “without water.” And the product does much the same thing. Unlike the original, the new Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution is ideal for dry skin. It’s essentially a moisturizer with Salicylic Acid that gently exfoliates the skin surface and unclogs pores. Of course, those two things are the main benefits of the original water-based Salicylic Acid serum.
Yet while the Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is ideal for all skin types, the new oil-based Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution is more suitable for a drier skin type and particularly dry and very dry skin. There is evidence, as well, that Salicylic Acid is more gentle for sensitive skin when delivered in an oil base. As a direct acid, water can apparently make Salicylic Acid more sensitizing. Humph.
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What Does Anhydrous Mean in Skincare and Is Anhydrous Good for Skin?
Put simply, the term anhydrous means “without water,” where hydro is a derivative of the Greek word for water. And why would you want to go without water if the human body is composed of about 60% water and the element is essential for life? Well, it’s not about us, really. It’s a matter of chemistry.
Generally speaking, if a skincare product is water-free; that is, oil-based, it is often more potent. But not always so. In the labs and in nature, ingredients like Niacinamide, Vitamin C and Salicylic Acid are what are termed “oil-soluble” or “water-soluble.” That means they dissolve in either water or oil.
What are water-soluble ingredients?
An ingredient that is “water-soluble” is one that dissolves in water. Water-soluble vitamins, for example, are more readily absorbed by the body and are put to use more effectively. According to the NIH website, “water-soluble vitamins include Vitamin C and Vitamin B complex (thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid, pyridoxine, biotin, folate, and cobalamin).”
Water-soluble ingredients and water-based products can help to rehydrate the skin and are ideal for all skin types.
What are oil-soluble ingredients?
“Oil-soluble” (also referred to as lipid-soluble and fat-soluble) ingredients can only be dissolved in oil. Among the most common oil-soluble ingredients used in skincare are vitamins like Vitamin A and Vitamin E. These fat-soluble vitamins are similar to oil and are unable to dissolve in water. Abundant in high-fat foods, Vitamins D and K are also oil-soluble.
Oil-soluble ingredients and oil-based products are most appropriate for drier skins as the fats help to replenish and moisturize dry skin.
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution has such a wonderfully replenishing texture. It’s velvety on application, reminiscent of the brand’s Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane and The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane facial oil — which I reviewed on the blog in an article titled, Three Hot Facial Serums From The Ordinary That I'm Crushing On, Too! (If you missed it, you can catch it here.)
If you’re familiar with either of those products, you know all about that velvety texture. They both feel amazing on the skin. And there are very few retinoids in my experience that are as pleasurable to use as the The Ordinary’s Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane. Only the Wander Beauty Do Not Disturb Overnight Repair Concentrate is a more luxurious experience.
A is The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, the new Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution is similarly non-drying. Yet, unlike the water-based version, it’s not as easily layered into a skincare routine. Because of its heavy oily texture, it is best applied as the last step of your regimen – or just before a heavier face cream, if needed. Through my own experience of it, I’d say it’s enough moisture for even a dry skin type, especially in warmer weather.
What I like about it: The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution is the best facial oil with Salicylic Acid that I’ve come across. It’s truly unique and I’m unaware of any similar products like it. What I appreciate most about it is it’s positioned (and formulated!) for drier skin types, not oily and acne-prone skins — the most common target of Salicylic Acid serums. This one is for all skin with pores. And whose skin doesn’t have pores?!
What I don’t like about it: I like everything about it.
Who it’s for: All skin types, except very oily and acne-prone skin. It’s especially ideal for dry skin.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution for $6.50 here.
The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution:
sii|emo 0 1, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Salicylic Acid exf|aacne|so|pres, Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides emo, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol so|cci, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone aox|so, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amicWATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
Photo credit: ©2022 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
The Ordinary | Salicylic Acid 2% Masque
Look, sometimes masking can be messy. You know the drill: you get the mask in your hair, you get it stuck in your eyebrows, some of it ends up on the floor. That was always the case with that ridiculous Dr. Jart’s Shake & Shot rubber mask. More of it ended up on my bathroom floor than on my face!
If you think that mask is messy, The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Masque is next-level messy. But unlike Shake & Shot, which is more skin gimmick than skin care, the Salicylic Acid 2% Masque has legit benefits for skin – benefits you’ll see instantly and over time. It’s the Salicylic Acid for me.
The Ordinary says that the Salicylic Acid 2% Masque “is formulated to target lackluster tone and textural irregularities. The formula, infused with charcoal and clays, aims to enhance the appearance of smoothness and clarity, leaving the skin feeling refreshed.”
In other words, it helps clear skin!
Photo credit: ©2022 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
But the skincare upside comes with a bathroom downside. If you’re not careful, you end up with gray water all over the bathroom sink, mirror and floor. So I’m super careful washing it off and have even gotten into the habit of removing it in the shower.
As messy as it is, it’s a relatively simple, effective clay mask for all skin types, but particularly acne-prone skins that can most benefit from the power of Salicylic Acid.
The first four ingredients in The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Masque are water, Kaolin, Squalane and Glycerin. That 2% Salicylic Acid comes in somewhere around sixth on the INCI — with charcoal powder a few ingredients later. I have no idea what level of charcoal powder is effective for skin — but it sure is messy.
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
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If you manage oily skin from day to day, The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque is ideal as a weekly or bi-weekly treatment that can help flush out pores and moderate sebum production.
Psst…if you’re curious, you can catch the #messyaf Salicylic Acid 2% Masque in action on my YouTube channel here.
I love this little messy mask on #selfcaresunday almost as much as I love tacos on Taco Tuesday. They both refresh mind, body and spirit…
What I like about it: The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Masque is one of my favorite masks for rebooting my complexion. It’s the ideal blend of decongesting clays and pore-refining Salicylic Acid. Glycerin and Squalane soothe, hydrate and moisturize skin. I love how bright and clear my skin looks right after using it.
What I don’t like about it: It’s just so damn messy. Do we really need the charcoal powder?! I’d be down for an alternate version: The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Charcoal Powder-Free Masque?
Who it’s for: All skin types, especially oily and acne-prone skin.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque for $6.50 here.
That’s it guys! Thanks for checking in on the Skincarma Blog! I hope this helps you to understand the unique benefits of Salicylic Acid for the skin — and not just skin experiencing an acne SOS.
Be sure to check out Antonio’s fashion and product photography on his website here — and follow his IG page!
See you next week…
💟 Carmine @skincarma
The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque:
col|abrasive/scrub 0 0, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Silica Cetyl Silylate vc, Salicylic Acid exf|aacne|so|pres, Sodium Polyacrylate vc, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Charcoal Powder abrasive/scrub, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol so|cci, Sclerotium Gum vc, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum vc, Phytic Acid chel, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Chlorphenesin pres|amic, Phenoxyethanol presWATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
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