DRUNK ELEPHANT | PROTINI POWERPEPTIDE RESURFACING SERUM

This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, 3 Lactic Acid Treatments To Get Your Complexion Lit In The New Year From Drunk Elephant, Biossance And Sunday Riley. You can catch the full piece here.

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Today is the coldest day of the year here in NYC, with temps in the mid-20s. I love the crispy air but that’s a bit much.

When it’s this cold outside, I struggle with dehydration — no matter how much water I drink and how much Hyaluronic Acid I apply.

To keep my body hydrated, I try to follow the simple rule of drinking one ounce of water for every pound of body weight. For me, that’s just over 150 ounces of water a day — about three 1.5 liter bottles.

And, of course, I apply lots and lots of humectants in the form of HA serums, toning mists and hydrating toners. Humectants like Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Glycerin and Centella Asiatica lock moisture in the skin. For a run-down of some of my favorite humectant serums, check out my most recent article titled, New Hyaluronic Acid Serums I Love From Farmacy Beauty, Herbivore, Glossier And More - Best Hyaluronic Acid Serums, Best Hydrating Serums For Face. It’s available to read here.

So I do everything I can to keep my skin feeling hydrated and my complexion looking alive.

NEW HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS I LOVE FROM FARMACY BEAUTY, HERBIVORE, GLOSSIER AND MORE

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And nothing kickstarts a dull complexion like a facial!

Yesterday, a good friend and I hit up our fave new-age spa in Manhattan’s Lower East Side, the Kollectiv NYC. In addition to sub-zero cryofacials and cryobody treatments, the Kollectiv offers warm, soothing conventional facials — and I certainly needed to power wash my pores. So I scheduled one with my facialist, Toni, who made no mention this time of how clogged my pores were, which was a good sign that I ended the year with relatively healthy skin.

Rather than the expense of a facial at a local spa or clinic, you can always reach for powerful brightening treatments like Vitamin C serums, Niacinamide serums, and acid toners or masks infused with exfoliating AHA’s, BHA’s and PHA’s like Glycolic and Lactic Acids, Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone.

Last week, I published the first in a series of articles on achieving a brighter complexion in dry, cold weather titled, The Best Fresh Activated Vitamin C Serums To Get Your Complexion Lit in the New Year. You can catch the article here. In it, I featured three of the best Vitamin C serums, each freshly activated for maximum potency and efficacy.

THE BEST FRESH ACTIVATED VITAMIN C SERUMS TO GET YOUR COMPLEXION LIT IN THE NEW YEAR

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Among my top picks was the new Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum, an upgrade of the iconic original C-Firma Vitamin C serum. In 2021, Drunk Elephant reformulated their star Vitamin C serum to be freshly activated. I hadn’t even imagined that C-Firma could be improved upon and the new formula is exceptional.

The second of my fresh-activated Vitamin C picks for a brighter complexion is a true classic: the Clinique Fresh Pressed Daily Booster with Pure Vitamin C 10%. I’ve included Fresh Pressed on the blog several times over the years. It’s certainly stood the test of time and was the first fresh-activated Vitamin C serum I experienced. As I’ve said, I think it’s among the best anti-aging serums for face and much more than a Vitamin C-powered brightening serum.

The third of my fresh activated Vitamin C serums for getting your complexion lit in the new year was the goop beauty GOOPGLOW 20% Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Glow Serum. And like the new Drunk Elephant C-Firma, you combine a liquid in one bottle with a pure Vitamin C powder in the other for a potent brightening treatment.

We’re fortunate that today there are multiple skincare treatments for home use powered by active ingredients that instantly brighten a dull complexion when the dry, low-humidity air sucks the life out of our skin.

Both Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Vitamin C are proven skin brighteners with the additional benefit of antioxidant protection, skin strengthening and even retexturizing the skin surface when used at very high levels.

In fact, I use high concentrations of each in my daily skincare routines. And, in the case of Niacinamide, I use multiple products twice daily, including serums, toners and moisturizers that are infused with the antioxidant powerhouse. It’s central to what I refer to as pore maintenance. Daily pore maintenance is the act of deep cleaning pores each day to keep skin functioning at its optimal best — and keep your facialist from criticizing your pore situation.

And I make no secret of the fact that I believe the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster to be among the best anti-aging serums on Earth. It’s the star product at the heart of my daily pore maintenance regimen and not a day goes by that I don’t use it at least once. Which means I go through about a bottle of it a month!

PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE 10% NIACINAMIDE BOOSTER – THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM

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While Niacinamide serums and Vitamin C serums make superb skin brighteners, they aren’t the only topical skincare products that can get even the dullest complexion glowing with an instant brightening effect. A well-formulated exfoliating acid treatment can, too.

Like vitamin-infused products, acid treatments come in multiple forms. There are acid serums, acid masks and, perhaps the most popular, acid toners infused with exfoliating alpha hydroxy acids, or AHA’s, like Glycolic Acid and my personal fave, Lactic Acid, made from milk.

There are toners infused with beta hydroxy acids, or BHA’s, like Salicylic Acid that power wash pores. Among the best Salicylic Acid toners is the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. As I understand it, it’s the brand’s top-selling product.

There are even toners formulated with both AHA’s and BHA’s; lately many are also made with the newest and gentlest of the exfoliating hydroxy acids, PHA’s — or polyhydroxy acid. Among the new class of PHA’s are Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid.

ACID TONERS – SOME OF THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, FARMACY AND MORE

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I love a good acid toner, but have to confess that my skin doesn’t always tolerate them very well. And that’s okay. I’ve made peace with the fact that Glycolic Acid isn’t my BFF. Except when using it to deodorize my underarms as my daily deodorant! So, we’ve found a way to coexist. Psst…you can catch my article on how to use Glycolic Acid as a deodorant, Skincare Hacks: Glycolic Acid Is the Natural Deodorant that Works! on the blog here.

Even though Glycolic Acid is considered the best acid to exfoliate the skin and instantly brighten the complexion, I prefer its kinder, gentler sibling, Lactic Acid. Like Niacinamide, my skin loves Lactic Acid in multiple products, multiple times a day — at any concentration.

WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE

What Is Lactic Acid and What Does Lactic Acid Do for the Skin?

Lactic Acid is my favorite of the range of six or seven alpha hydroxy acids. That’s not something I can say about its more powerful AHA partner in crime, Glycolic Acid. But what makes Lactic Acid so uniquely effective? There’s a great piece on the benefits of Lactic Acid written by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, Lactic Acid for Skin. You can catch the full article here. Here is an excerpt:

Lactic acid is a skin care ingredient that quickly delivers numerous benefits when applied in a well-formulated exfoliating product. When used in a pH-correct formula (whether designed to be left on skin or in a high-strength peel that’s rinsed after several minutes), lactic acid works by gently breaking the bonds that hold dead, dry skin cells to the surface.
If you’re using a rinse-off peel with lactic acid, do so once weekly or every other week. Apply the peel to cleansed skin, leave on for the designated amount of time, rinse, and follow with the rest of your skincare routine.
These dead cells shed on their own when we’re young, but sun damage, aging, and certain skin issues can slow or even stop this process, leading to a buildup of dead skin that creates a dull, older-looking complexion. Regular use of an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) like lactic acid can turn this around.
As with other acids, research shows lactic acid’s ability to exfoliate effectively depends on the product’s acid concentration, with amounts between 5-12% having reliably impressive results.

And because I love Lactic Acid-infused products so much, I’ve amassed quite a collection of what I consider the best Lactic Acid serums, toners, moisturizers and masks anywhere. Among my favorites are the Kat Burki Goji Essence — one of the most effective Lactic Acid toners I’ve tried. It’s also an absolute pleasure to use and brings me a ridiculous amount of skincare joy. You can catch my review of it on the blog here.

Which brings me to my top three picks of Lactic Acid serums for FW21-22!

No article about Lactic Acid would be complete without the iconic Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment from Sunday Riley. Hands-down, I consider it to be the OG Lactic Acid serum – the first one I ever experienced. I’m likely not alone; it’s that popular. I’m excited to share about it again below.

PRODUCT REVIEW: KAT BURKI GOJI ESSENCE - BEST LACTIC ACID TREATMENT, BEST FERMENTED ESSENCE

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New to the scene, and following in the footsteps of Good Genes, is the peptide-powered Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum. In addition to the C-Firma Fresh Day Serum, I’m a longtime fan of Drunk Elephant’s Protini Polypeptide Cream and believe that, at $68, it’s the most anyone should ever pay for a moisturizer.

The Biossance Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum is also a new Lactic Acid treatment – and really well-formulated. Infused with skin-replenishing and emollient Squalane, I’ve been enjoying its thicker texture; it’s ideal for keeping skin from drying out in the cold, low-humidity air.

With that, let’s take a look at one of my three favorite Lactic Acid serums for getting your complexion lit in the new year…

Drunk Elephant | Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum

Yes, I love Lactic Acid. That sounds kinda weird, doesn’t it? But it’s quite true. For my skin, Lactic Acid is the most effective acid exfoliant. So yeah, I’m a fan.

I’m also a fan of Drunk Elephant — like all serious skincare users. And I’m fond of numerous Drunk Elephant products, among them the Slaai Makeup-Melting Butter Cleanser — one of the best cleansers for dry skin in winter.

And as I’ve said, I was a longtime user of the brand’s original C-Firma Vitamin C serum and a recent convert to Drunk Elephant’s new, freshly activated C-Firma Fresh Day Serum. It’s a surprising upgrade of the original and quite literally one of the best brightening serums with Vitamin C available. Psst…you can catch my review of it on the blog here.

Oh, and how could I forget Drunk Elephant’s E-Rase Milki Micellar Water? I’d never come across a milky cleansing water before it. E-Rase has a thick, milky texture that reminds me very much of the Dr. Jart Ceramidin Liquid — and it’s quite soothing and comforting in dry, cold weather.

PRODUCT REVIEW: DRUNK ELEPHANT E-RASE MILKI MICELLAR WATER – ONE OF THE BEST CLEANSERS FOR DRY SKIN

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So with my fanboy love of Lactic Acid and just about anything from Drunk Elephant I was super excited to be among the first to try the brand’s new Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum.

Both the new Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum and the classic Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment are equally effective exfoliating serums powered by Lactic Acid. I am not certain of the exact level of Lactic Acid in Good Genes, but it’s somewhere around a 5% concentration; the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum is powered by twice that, at 10%.

When testing it out, I used the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum nearly nightly for about two weeks and saw no signs of irritation, particularly on my overly sensitive forehead. My forehead is always the indicator that a product is too harsh for my skin as it’s the only place on my face that’s reactive.

In addition to its 10% concentration of Lactic Acid, the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum formula contains eleven signal peptides, rather blandly referred to as a Signal Peptide Complex.

What Are Signal Peptides in Skincare and What Do Peptides Do for Skin?

As I understand it, signal peptides communicate with cells, prompting them to function more efficiently. Signal peptides can help teach damaged skin to rebuild itself by relocating proteins in the cell membrane. Such cool, wonky science that.

There’s a terrific article on all things peptides by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team simply titled, Peptides for Skin. Here’s an insightful excerpt from the piece:

What Are Peptides?
First, we need to start with the science: Peptides are fragments of proteins. On their own, peptides are made up of amino acids. When amino acids are combined in certain formations they create specific peptides (and there are hundreds of peptides), and when peptides are formed in a certain way, they make specific proteins.
Proteins are the fundamental building blocks of skin. Without peptides, skin doesn’t remain intact and the result is loss of firmness, appearance of wrinkles, texture changes, and skin that doesn’t bounce back as it once did.
What’s so fascinating about peptides is that abundant research has clearly shown that each of them works in very specific ways to target an exact skin care need. They also teach skin to do what's required to help revitalize these building blocks, which can help revive aging skin.
Peptides in Skin Care: A Balanced View
Although there are intriguing reasons to consider peptides as a significant part of a skin care formula as we did with our unique PEPTIDE BOOSTER, we also want you to know there's a lot of hype around what they can do. Sadly, the hype is often completely blown out of proportion. Peptides can do amazing things for skin, but they do not replace what cosmetic corrective procedures can do, as many companies have claimed over the years.
There's no single ingredient solution for all the signs of aging and other skin problems we endure, and peptides are no exception. You would be cheating your skin to think that any single peptide (or any other specific skin care ingredient) is your skin's solo rescuer. We use this multi-ingredient "cocktail" approach when we formulate all Paula's Choice Skincare products, including our PEPTIDE BOOSTER, which contains a mix of eight distinctive peptides, several amino acids, and skin-replenishing ingredients.
Promising new research has us excited about using peptides in skin care products. Their ability to help revitalize skin's building blocks so it becomes more resilient is a wonderful asset for skin, but keep your expectations realistic, or you will be disappointed.

In addition to the anti-aging peptides in the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum, there are multiple amino acids in the formula — as well as a number of powerful antioxidants, including Green Tea Extract and Apple Fruit Extract that will help skin defend itself against environmental free radical damage.

It’s the texture of the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum for me though! It’s a super light, semi-translucent serum that’s quite easily layered into any skincare routine — and the lightest of the three Lactic Acid serums I’m reviewing here.

What I like about it: The Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum is a near-perfect exfoliating and anti-aging serum developed with a high concentration of 10% Lactic Acid. I really love the texture, which is more reminiscent of a conventional serum, making it quite easy to layer into any skincare routine.

What I don’t like about it: At $82 for one ounce, it’s priced out of the range of most people, though I would imagine that Drunk Elephant fans are accustomed to their higher pricing. At least you’re getting an excellent formula for the cost.

Who it’s for: All skin types, even sensitive, oily and acne-prone.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum for $82 here.

SHOP SEPHORA FOR DRUNK ELEPHANT PROTINI POWERPEPTIDE RESURFACING SERUM