PRODUCT REVIEW: BIOSSANCE SQUALANE + 10% LACTIC ACID RESURFACING NIGHT SERUM – BEST LACTIC ACID SERUM, BEST EXFOLIATING SERUM WITH LACTIC ACID
BIOSSANCE | SQUALANE + 10% LACTIC ACID RESURFACING NIGHT SERUM
This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, 3 Lactic Acid Treatments To Get Your Complexion Lit In The New Year From Drunk Elephant, Biossance And Sunday Riley. You can catch the full piece here.
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Today is the coldest day of the year here in NYC, with temps in the mid-20s. I love the crispy air but that’s a bit much.
When it’s this cold outside, I struggle with dehydration — no matter how much water I drink and how much Hyaluronic Acid I apply.
To keep my body hydrated, I try to follow the simple rule of drinking one ounce of water for every pound of body weight. For me, that’s just over 150 ounces of water a day — about three 1.5 liter bottles.
And, of course, I apply lots and lots of humectants in the form of HA serums, toning mists and hydrating toners. Humectants like Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Glycerin and Centella Asiatica lock moisture in the skin. For a run-down of some of my favorite humectant serums, check out my most recent article titled, New Hyaluronic Acid Serums I Love From Farmacy Beauty, Herbivore, Glossier And More - Best Hyaluronic Acid Serums, Best Hydrating Serums For Face. It’s available to read here.
So I do everything I can to keep my skin feeling hydrated and my complexion looking alive.
NEW HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS I LOVE FROM FARMACY BEAUTY, HERBIVORE, GLOSSIER AND MORE
And nothing kickstarts a dull complexion like a facial!
Yesterday, a good friend and I hit up our fave new-age spa in Manhattan’s Lower East Side, the Kollectiv NYC. In addition to sub-zero cryofacials and cryobody treatments, the Kollectiv offers warm, soothing conventional facials — and I certainly needed to power wash my pores. So I scheduled one with my facialist, Toni, who made no mention this time of how clogged my pores were, which was a good sign that I ended the year with relatively healthy skin.
Rather than the expense of a facial at a local spa or clinic, you can always reach for powerful brightening treatments like Vitamin C serums, Niacinamide serums, and acid toners or masks infused with exfoliating AHA’s, BHA’s and PHA’s like Glycolic and Lactic Acids, Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone.
Last week, I published the first in a series of articles on achieving a brighter complexion in dry, cold weather titled, The Best Fresh Activated Vitamin C Serums To Get Your Complexion Lit in the New Year. You can catch the article here. In it, I featured three of the best Vitamin C serums, each freshly activated for maximum potency and efficacy.
THE BEST FRESH ACTIVATED VITAMIN C SERUMS TO GET YOUR COMPLEXION LIT IN THE NEW YEAR
Among my top picks was the new Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum, an upgrade of the iconic original C-Firma Vitamin C serum. In 2021, Drunk Elephant reformulated their star Vitamin C serum to be freshly activated. I hadn’t even imagined that C-Firma could be improved upon and the new formula is exceptional.
The second of my fresh-activated Vitamin C picks for a brighter complexion is a true classic: the Clinique Fresh Pressed Daily Booster with Pure Vitamin C 10%. I’ve included Fresh Pressed on the blog several times over the years. It’s certainly stood the test of time and was the first fresh-activated Vitamin C serum I experienced. As I’ve said, I think it’s among the best anti-aging serums for face and much more than a Vitamin C-powered brightening serum.
The third of my fresh activated Vitamin C serums for getting your complexion lit in the new year was the goop beauty GOOPGLOW 20% Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Glow Serum. And like the new Drunk Elephant C-Firma, you combine a liquid in one bottle with a pure Vitamin C powder in the other for a potent brightening treatment.
We’re fortunate that today there are multiple skincare treatments for home use powered by active ingredients that instantly brighten a dull complexion when the dry, low-humidity air sucks the life out of our skin.
Both Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Vitamin C are proven skin brighteners with the additional benefit of antioxidant protection, skin strengthening and even retexturizing the skin surface when used at very high levels.
In fact, I use high concentrations of each in my daily skincare routines. And, in the case of Niacinamide, I use multiple products twice daily, including serums, toners and moisturizers that are infused with the antioxidant powerhouse. It’s central to what I refer to as pore maintenance. Daily pore maintenance is the act of deep cleaning pores each day to keep skin functioning at its optimal best — and keep your facialist from criticizing your pore situation.
And I make no secret of the fact that I believe the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster to be among the best anti-aging serums on Earth. It’s the star product at the heart of my daily pore maintenance regimen and not a day goes by that I don’t use it at least once. Which means I go through about a bottle of it a month!
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE 10% NIACINAMIDE BOOSTER – THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM
While Niacinamide serums and Vitamin C serums make superb skin brighteners, they aren’t the only topical skincare products that can get even the dullest complexion glowing with an instant brightening effect. A well-formulated exfoliating acid treatment can, too.
Like vitamin-infused products, acid treatments come in multiple forms. There are acid serums, acid masks and, perhaps the most popular, acid toners infused with exfoliating alpha hydroxy acids, or AHA’s, like Glycolic Acid and my personal fave, Lactic Acid, made from milk.
There are toners infused with beta hydroxy acids, or BHA’s, like Salicylic Acid that power wash pores. Among the best Salicylic Acid toners is the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. As I understand it, it’s the brand’s top-selling product.
There are even toners formulated with both AHA’s and BHA’s; lately many are also made with the newest and gentlest of the exfoliating hydroxy acids, PHA’s — or polyhydroxy acid. Among the new class of PHA’s are Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid.
ACID TONERS – SOME OF THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, FARMACY AND MORE
I love a good acid toner, but have to confess that my skin doesn’t always tolerate them very well. And that’s okay. I’ve made peace with the fact that Glycolic Acid isn’t my BFF. Except when using it to deodorize my underarms as my daily deodorant! So, we’ve found a way to coexist. Psst…you can catch my article on how to use Glycolic Acid as a deodorant, Skincare Hacks: Glycolic Acid Is the Natural Deodorant that Works! on the blog here.
Even though Glycolic Acid is considered the best acid to exfoliate the skin and instantly brighten the complexion, I prefer its kinder, gentler sibling, Lactic Acid. Like Niacinamide, my skin loves Lactic Acid in multiple products, multiple times a day — at any concentration.
What Is Lactic Acid and What Does Lactic Acid Do for the Skin?
Lactic Acid is my favorite of the range of six or seven alpha hydroxy acids. That’s not something I can say about its more powerful AHA partner in crime, Glycolic Acid. But what makes Lactic Acid so uniquely effective? There’s a great piece on the benefits of Lactic Acid written by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, Lactic Acid for Skin. You can catch the full article here. Here is an excerpt:
Lactic acid is a skin care ingredient that quickly delivers numerous benefits when applied in a well-formulated exfoliating product. When used in a pH-correct formula (whether designed to be left on skin or in a high-strength peel that’s rinsed after several minutes), lactic acid works by gently breaking the bonds that hold dead, dry skin cells to the surface.
If you’re using a rinse-off peel with lactic acid, do so once weekly or every other week. Apply the peel to cleansed skin, leave on for the designated amount of time, rinse, and follow with the rest of your skincare routine.
These dead cells shed on their own when we’re young, but sun damage, aging, and certain skin issues can slow or even stop this process, leading to a buildup of dead skin that creates a dull, older-looking complexion. Regular use of an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) like lactic acid can turn this around.
As with other acids, research shows lactic acid’s ability to exfoliate effectively depends on the product’s acid concentration, with amounts between 5-12% having reliably impressive results.
And because I love Lactic Acid-infused products so much, I’ve amassed quite a collection of what I consider the best Lactic Acid serums, toners, moisturizers and masks anywhere. Among my favorites are the Kat Burki Goji Essence — one of the most effective Lactic Acid toners I’ve tried. It’s also an absolute pleasure to use and brings me a ridiculous amount of skincare joy. You can catch my review of it on the blog here.
Which brings me to my top three picks of Lactic Acid serums for FW21-22!
No article about Lactic Acid would be complete without the iconic Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment from Sunday Riley. Hands-down, I consider it to be the OG Lactic Acid serum – the first one I ever experienced. I’m likely not alone; it’s that popular. I’m excited to share about it again below.
PRODUCT REVIEW: KAT BURKI GOJI ESSENCE - BEST LACTIC ACID TREATMENT, BEST FERMENTED ESSENCE
New to the scene, and following in the footsteps of Good Genes, is the peptide-powered Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum. In addition to the C-Firma Fresh Day Serum, I’m a longtime fan of Drunk Elephant’s Protini Polypeptide Cream and believe that, at $68, it’s the most anyone should ever pay for a moisturizer.
The Biossance Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum is also a new Lactic Acid treatment – and really well-formulated. Infused with skin-replenishing and emollient Squalane, I’ve been enjoying its thicker texture; it’s ideal for keeping skin from drying out in the cold, low-humidity air.
With that, let’s take a look at one of my three favorite Lactic Acid serums for getting your complexion lit in the new year…
Biossance | Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum
I’ve only had the opportunity to experience a few Biossance products, something I plan to rectify in 2022. The brand is known for its clean, high-performance skincare infused with sustainably sourced, replenishing Squalane. According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, the non-fragrant plant oil is among the best ingredients used in skincare.
Among the most notable of my Biossance discoveries is one of my favorite brightening facial oils with Vitamin C – Biossance’s Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil. It’s more of a dry oil than a replenishing facial oil for dry skin, making it ideal for most skin type in most climates and at most times of the year. Remarkably, Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil goes on a bit wet but quickly dries down on the skin. It very much reminds of The Ordinary’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane.
Like all of the Biossance products, its star active is Squalane at about a 65-70% concentration of the formula. While I haven’t had much of an opportunity to test drive the brand, what I’ve tried, I’ve enjoyed — including the Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30, which I reviewed on the blog here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: BIOSSANCE SQUALANE + VITAMIN C ROSE OIL - BEST FACIAL OIL FOR DRY SKIN
What Is Squalane and What Does Squalane Do for Skin?
Squalane is a richly replenishing, non-fragrant plant oil with moisturizing and antioxidant benefits for the skin similar to Argan Oil, Jojoba Seed Oil and Sunflower Oil. It’s an effective bio-compatible emollient, easily recognized by the skin, that helps to prevent trans-epidermal water loss. Squalane is most commonly extracted from olives, but can be derived from wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils.
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Squalane is one of the best of the class of plant oils. Here’s what I found most relevant:
Squalane is an emollient that helps prevent moisture loss and restores suppleness to skin. It is also a source of beneficial fatty acids that replenish skin. One unique aspect of squalane is that it’s a modified form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum (oil). This makes squalane a biocompatible ingredient that skin instantly recognizes and knows how to use.
Despite its sebum-like nature, squalane feels surprisingly lightweight and non-greasy. Squalane can also help strengthen skin’s barrier to help it be less prone to sensitivity and reactiveness.
Beyond its moisturizing properties, squalane also functions as an antioxidant. The antioxidant benefit of squalane also helps it protect skin’s oil from what’s known as lipid peroxidation, a process that damages skin’s surface and deeper in the pore lining where oil originates. This peroxidation is also believed to play a role in acne.
Squalane has been in use as a cosmetic ingredient for decades and has a long track record of safety. In 2019, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel determined squalane continues to be a safe ingredient (their report looked a maximum concentration use at 96.8%). Usage levels in skin care vary depending on desired aesthetics and other emollients present.
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
NEW PAMPERING FACIAL OILS THAT WOW ME - FROM KJAER WEIS, BIOSSANCE AND MORE
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So, I was excited to experience another product from the brand, the Biossance Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum. To start, it’s the thickest of the three Lactic Acid treatments I’m reviewing here.
Likely due to its high level of Squalane Oil at a 10% concentration, the Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid serum has a consistency reminiscent of a thick lotion or lightweight face cream. For some, it would be enough moisture, but for me during the colder months, I like to layer a moisturizer or facial oil over it in my PM routine.
With a relatively tight INCI that runs just under 20 ingredients, it’s a clean, simple formula that delivers 10% exfoliating Vegan Lactic Acid along with the moisturizing oils and humectants skin needs to maintain optimal hydration levels. Among its most beneficial actives are Squalane, Glycerin and Sorbitan Olivate — a blend of fatty acids derived from olive oil and a dehydrated sugar known as sorbitol.
Funny, as hard as I tried, I couldn’t find anything from the Biossance brand that clarifies what is meant by “Vegan Lactic Acid” — or how it’s developed. That’s a bummer since, as a vegan, I’m really intrigued by the concept of it.
My googling determined that while Lactic Acid is derived from milk, the vegan alternative is a product of beet sugar or corn starch fermentation.
While there are none of the tried and true skin soothers in the formula like Bisabolol, Allantoin or even Centella Asiatica, the Biossance Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum does seem to be gentle enough on skin. I’ve used it on multiple nights throughout the week and seen no irritation the following mornings.
PRODUCT REVIEW: BIOSSANCE SQUALANE + ZINC SHEER MINERAL SUNSCREEN SPF 30 – BEST ANTI-AGING FACE CREAM
I’m quite fond of the Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum formula, though it’s not perfect. At the very end of the INCI, there are two fragrant ingredients: Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil and Linalool — a naturally occurring terpene alcohol found in numerous flowers and spice plants including lavender and citrus. Both have the potential to sensitize skin or irritate already sensitive skin.
It’s not a deal-breaker for me as the concentrations are likely too low to cause problems in most skins, though if you’re overly sensitive, you may want to consider one of the other Lactic Acid treatments.
What I like about it: The Biossance Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum is a thick, rich Lactic Acid treatment that has the consistency of a heavier moisturizing lotion. It feels wonderful on skin and gently delivers a potent 10% concentration of the AHA for a reliable exfoliating benefit.
What I don’t like about it: There are two fragrant components in the formula that can sensitize skin or irritate already sensitive skin types. Why are they in there?
Who it’s for: All skin types except very sensitive.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Biossance Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum for $62 here.
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The Ingredient List of the Biossance Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum:
exf|h|buff, Squalane 
sii|emo 0 1, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Cetearyl Olivate emu, Propanediol solv|h, Sorbitan Olivate emu, Cetearyl Alcohol emo|vc|emu|surf 1 2, Lespedeza Capitata Leaf/Stem Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 vc, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Gluconate chel|h, Xanthan Gum vc, Phenoxyethanol pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil 
amic|perf, Linalool perfThe Ingredient List of the Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment:
perf, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract so|emo|h, Cypripedium Pubescens Extract, Opuntia Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract h, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate amic|pres, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Lactic Acid exf|h|buff, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer emo, Propanediol solv|h, Butylene Glycol h|solv|vc 0 1, Stearic Acid emo|vc 0 2-3, Dimethicone emo 0 1, Cetearyl Alcohol emo|vc|emu|surf 1 2, Phenyl Trimethicone emo, Disiloxane, Ceteareth-20 emu|surf 3 2, Glyceryl Stearate emo|emu 0 1-2, PEG-100 Stearate surf|emu 0 0, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate so, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract so|sb, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemongrass) Oil, Potassium Hydroxide buff, Phenoxyethanol pres, Xanthan Gum vc, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Chlorphenesin pres|amic, Sodium Phytate chelThe Ingredient List of the Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum:
sii|h 0 0, Lactic Acid exf|h|buff, Dicaprylyl Carbonate emo, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Glycine Max (Soybean) Seed Extract, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil emo, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil h, Sodium PCA sii|h 0 0, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil so|emo, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide h, Tocotrienols, SH-Oligopeptide-1 cci, SH-Oligopeptide-2 cci, SH-Polypeptide-1 cci, SH-Polypeptide-9 cci, SH-Polypeptide-11 cci, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 , Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 cci, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 cci, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 cci, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 cci, Tripeptide-1 cci, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract h, Propanediol solv|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Panthenol so|h 0 0, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Pca sii|h, Alanine sii, Arginine sii, Glycine sii, Histidine sii|h, Isoleucine sii, Phenylalanine sii, Proline sii, Serine sii, Threonine sii, Valine sii, Adenosine cci, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract aox|h, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract, Dextran vc, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil aox|emo, Linoleic Acid sii|emo|surf, Linolenic Acid sii|emo|surf|perf, Butylene Glycol h|solv|vc 0 1, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes emo|solv, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate emo, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Isomalt h, Lecithin emo|emu, Xanthan Gum vc, Aspartic Acid sii, Phytosphingosine sii|cci|aacne|amic, Phospholipids sii|emo, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols emo, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Citric Acid buff, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol vc, Phenoxyethanol pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin , Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenylpropanol perf|solv, Chlorphenesin pres|amic, Carbomer vc 0 1, Glyceryl Caprylate emo|emu, Ethylhexylglycerin pres
