THE INKEY LIST | MADECASSOSIDE MASK

Be sure to catch my YouTube video on The Inkey List’s new Madecassoside Mask. It’s available on the Skincarma YouTube channel here.

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Yes, I know I’m the world’s biggest #inkeyfanboy. My love affair began ages ago with Inkey’s Turmeric face cream and it has never let up.

Of course, my favorite product from The Inkey List is probably the Glycolic Acid Toner — which I use as my daily deodorant.

Psst…If you aren’t using Glycolic Acid as a deodorant yet, check out my deep dive into this hack on my blog article titled, Skincare Hacks: Glycolic Acid Is The Natural Deodorant That Works! You can catch it here.

So I have no problem being labeled an #inkeyfanboy. Admittedly, I experience what can only be described as irrational #fomo whenever Inkey introduces a new product. I’ve probably reviewed more than two dozen Inkey List products on the blog and there’s no end in sight!

The Inkey List’s Madecassoside Mask sounds a little crazy with its 87-letter long name that literally no one can pronounce. But I rehearsed it before filming yesterday’s #selfcaresunday video for my YouTube channel. If you didn’t catch it, check out the link in bio.

So, What Is Madecassoside and What Is Madecassic Acid in Skin Care?

At its most basic, Madecassoside is one of the active components of Centella Asiatica, or Cica. And much like Bisabolol is an active component of common chamomile, it’s super soothing on the skin.

According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, “Madecassoside is of four principal bioactive compounds in the plant extract Centella asiatica. One double-blind study has shown even small amounts of this compound (0.1% in one case) combined with vitamin C have antioxidant benefit when applied to skin, and it serves as an antioxidant in its own right. Studies also show it is non-sensitizing and can help revitalize skin’s surface.”

I found a really interesting article on Madecassoside on the Byrdie website titled, Dermatologists Say Madecassoside Is a Promising Ingredient for Sensitive Skin. Here is an excerpt:

You've probably never heard of madecassoside, but you likely have heard of Centella asiatica. Also known as Tiger Grass or gotu kola, the medicinal plant is the star of skin-soothing cica creams galore—and madecassoside is one of the primary, most active compounds in centella asiatica. Unlike centella asiatica, madecassoside is still somewhat of a new ingredient on the scene. Still, the effects it can have on the skin—everything from soothing properties to antioxidant benefits to hydration—make it one that dermatologists say has some serious promise. We asked Y. Claire Chang, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York City, Beverly Hills dermatologist Onyeka Obioha, MD, and New York City board-certified dermatologist Whitney Bowe, MD, to share what they know about this madecassoside, and what it can potentially do for skin.
Benefits of Madecassoside for Skin
First and foremost, it's worth noting that all of the dermatologists we spoke with agree that more studies need to be done to confirm madecassoside's range of potential skin benefits. That being said, the list of possibilities is extensive. "This is a new ingredient that's definitely on my radar," says Bowe, "the data is sparse but promising."

Offers antioxidant protection: Madecassoside has been shown to reduce skin-damaging free radicals formed by exposure to environmental factors such as UV rays and pollution.
Has anti-inflammatory properties: "Small, preliminary studies suggest that madecassoside can dial down inflammatory cellular messengers called cytokines, including those that are typically turned on during an acne flare," explains Bowe. She says that this is why she can foresee this being a beneficial ingredient not only for those with dry or sensitive skin but those with acne-prone skin, as well.
Improves skin hydration: Lab studies suggest that madecassoside can increase the skin's natural hyaluronic acid production, says Bowe.
Offers additional anti-aging benefits: According to Chang, lab-based studies have also shown that it enhances collagen synthesis. And, going back to those aforementioned antioxidant properties, it works synergistically with vitamin C, a proven anti-ager. "One small clinical study of 20 female patients showed that using topical vitamin C and madecassoside for six months resulted in an improvement in wrinkles, skin firmness and texture, and skin hydration," she says.

My skin is always all aggie during the colder months no matter what I do so The Inkey List’s Madecassoside Mask, with its unique soothing properties, couldn’t have come at a better time. Way to go, Inkey!

Inkey says their intriguing new mask “provides instant cooling & hydration to stressed or overworked skin in need of some TLC, and can be used as a leave on treatment for maintaining skin barrier health.”

I gotta say the stuff does feel great on my face! And, it felt so good that I left it on for double the recommended 10 minutes. It has a silky smooth texture reminiscent of a clay mask, though there is no clay in The Inkey List’s Madecassoside Mask.

What else is in the Madecassoside Mask? Well, a whole lot of new ingredient complexes I’d never heard of. Talk about Inkey innovation!

1% Poly Fructol Plus: “helps to provide instant and long-lasting hydration and prevents moisture loss within the epidermis”
0.1% Frescolate: “creates a gentle cooling effect on the skin to provide instant relief for up to 25 minutes after using.”
0.2% Symrelief: “an incredibly efficient ingredient that helps to provide instant relief and calm skin by inhibiting the 3 main skin pathways that causes redness and irritation.”

Of course it’s acessibly priced at just $9.99. I say give it a try!

What I like about it: The Inkey List’s Madecassoside Mask is a terrific skin-sooting facial mask for pretty much all skin types. I love the innovation behind the formula and, of course, it’s affordability, making it accessible to most skincare users.

What I don’t like about it: There’s a moderate amount of fragrance in the formula in the form of menthyl lactate, classified by the Paula’s Choice Research Team as poor for use ion skincare. According to the team the ingredient is sensitizing: “The ester of menthol and lactic acid, this ingredient is used as a cooling or flavoring agent and fragrance in cosmetics. This derivative of menthol is supposed to be less sensitizing than menthol, but there’s no substantiated, pubsliehd research supporting this notion.” I don’t understand its purpose in a soothing mask. It seems quite counterintuitive.

Who it’s for: All skin types.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the The Inkey List Madecassoside Mask for $9.99 here.

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