A COMPLETE OILY SKIN ROUTINE FROM THE ORDINARY – BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM FOR OILY SKIN, BEST OILY SKIN MASK WITH SALICYLIC ACID
All summer long I’ve been seeking out cool, new unimaginable adventures. If you’ve been following them, you know I kicked things into high gear over the Fourth of July weekend.
I took to the skies over Manhattan Island, hopping on a helicopter for a 15-minute adventure above the City. I’d actually done it three or four times over the years and it never gets old.
Seeing the City from above is surreal. From that high up, you don’t have any sense of the chaos, the energy, the diversity of its people and its worldly food. Instead, you experience its majesty, its promise and its utter improbability. And somehow, subconsciously, you connect it to your own sense of self — to your own majesty. Hovering over the Statue of Liberty, I was reminded that New York City, through everything, remains the greatest, most diverse city on Earth.
A few weeks later, I hit the KAWS exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum for my birthday. The KAWS: WHAT PARTY? exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum features some of the Brooklyn-based artist’s most popular works — as well as a few pieces exclusive to the exhibit. It blew me away. In fact, I loved it so much I went back again the following weekend.
Since experiencing the artist Christo’s The Gates in Central Park in February 2005, I’ve sought out immersive, outdoor art exhibits. I imagine Christo would be supremely gratified to know that he’d had that effect on me! Nearly two decades ago now, I ended up experiencing The Gates twice — once before it had even snowed for the season; the second time was immediately following the first snowstorm. (The accompanying photo is from that day.)
The one art event I’d anticipated most of all this year was the Immersive Van Gogh Exhibit at Pier 36 on the East Side of Manhattan. In the massive event space, majestic projections of Van Gogh’s most famous works were beamed from the high-tech equipment above onto the walls and floor. My friends and I were literally immersed in Van Gogh, seemingly lost inside the artist’s mind. A brilliant light show set to music ensued, reverberating through our hearts, heads and souls.
This past Friday night, I made it to another long-anticipated immersive event — the SuperReal light show at the famous Cipriani in Lower Manhattan. Like the Van Gogh Exhibit, it was exceptional and my friend and I agreed, we actually enjoyed it even more.
SuperReal is described as “an unprecedented projection mapping spectacle that adds a layer of reality to our world. Fusing cutting-edge technology with an iconic venue, visitors are introduced to original art paired with 360° surround sound.”
SuperReal was, in fact, super surreal. To experience the show fully we were seated in oversized beanbag chairs on the floor at the center of the Greco-Roman structure. The space reminded me of multiple visits to the Pantheon in Rome — complete with a rotunda at the center of a coffered concrete dome.
As emotionally, intellectually and mentally stimulating as it was, four days later I haven’t stopped thinking about it. I may just have to get back there again before summer disappears…
The skincare stuff starts here.
As summer winds down here in New York City, I look forward to fall — my favorite season with its sweater weather. I can’t wait to get the hoodies out! Before those days begin to seep in, I look back on July and August with a range of mixed feelings.
I love a warm, pleasant day like everyone. Sure we’ve had our share of them; but we’ve also had a few unbearable scorchers — days when it was so hot and humid that I could be mistaken for believing I had oily skin again.
Truth be told, I haven’t suffered from legitimately oily skin since my early 20s. But when I’m sweating it out on a 90-degree subway platform in July awaiting the 4-train to the Bronx, trust me, I’m a greasy mess. Just like the 16-year-old zitted-out gaggle of Upper East Side teens that always seem to be causing a ruckus on the stairs at Union Square.
In fact, as I do every summer, I published a two-part series on my recommendations for warm weather face creams. Each of the two was titled, Super Lightweight Summer Moisturizers SS21 – Best Brightening Moisturizers, Best Face Creams For Oily Skin (And All Skin In The Heat!).
SUPER LIGHTWEIGHT SUMMER MOISTURIZERS BEST FACE CREAMS FOR OILY SKIN (AND ALL SKIN IN THE HEAT!)
To me, heat is the great skin equalizer!
The first piece featured one of the best face creams for oily skin I’ve ever come across — the Glossier Priming Moisturizer Balance. I joked in the product review that when temps are in the 90s, we’re all oily, making Glossier’s lightest moisturizer perfect for just about everyone with skin. The brand’s Priming Moisturizer Balance is perfectly mattifying and has left my skin comfortable and fresh on many a hot day throughout the summer season. I wish I could dole out a tube of it to each of those greasy teens!
PRODUCT REVIEW: GLOSSIER PRIMING MOISTURIZER BALANCE – BEST MATTIFYING MOISTURIZER
Those two blog articles this year about summer moisturizers got me thinking about the people who actually manage oily skin year-round. Not just those of us who sweat it out in July.
Of course, there are hundreds of great face cleansers, face creams, face serums and sunscreens made for oily skin. But I thought it would be helpful (and fun!) to pull together the best oily skin regimen from The Ordinary — one of my all-time favorite and most dependable brands.
I love skincare ingredients and using targeted serums to address my own skin concerns and the skin concerns of Skincarma followers. The Ordinary was one of the first brands that offered a broad range of single-note products — that is, products focused on one primary active ingredient.
In doing so, they met the curiosity of consumers like me (and you!) to learn about ingredients and how they benefit their skin. Until then, it was rather challenging to adequately target your specific skin concerns — like T-zone oiliness, occasional sensitivity and patches of dryness.
The Ordinary has empowered us to weed through the chaos and confusion created by big beauty marketers and truly focus on our skin’s unique needs. By focusing on specific ingredients like Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide and Vitamin C — and offering them in affordable, well-formulated products — The Ordinary makes it possible for just about everyone to be able to consistently and effectively maintain the health of their skin. That is especially important at the extremes where oily skin and sensitive skin require extra TLC.
I first began my not-so-ordinary journey with the brand about four years ago, just as The Ordinary was bursting onto the skincare scene. Early favorites were the Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% serum, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder.
THE SKINCARMA PRODUCT OF THE YEAR : THE ORDINARY 100% L-ASCORBIC ACID POWDER
In fact, that entirely basic 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder, essentially a pot of pure Vitamin C, was the first-ever Skincarma Product of the Year, in 2018!
Very recently, the brand began to supersize many of its products which, until now, came in rather stingy 30 mL / 1 oz. bottles and tubes. At that size, I literally go through a bottle of The Ordinary’s Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG every three weeks. So I certainly welcome the larger sizes. According to the brand,
We want to encourage good when buying beauty, and so we recently upsized some of our beloved The Ordinary products to offer more of what you love, better value, and a smaller footprint.
Compared to our usual (humbly*) sized products, we're helping to reduce your footprint (and ours) - for each of the larger products, moving from the smaller size to a bigger size can save an average of 35% in packaging weight** and over 15% in shipping emissions**, *, which is one way of hugging the world a little tighter for a more human approach to beauty.
While The Ordinary has yet to “upsize” my beloved Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG, the brand has done so with many of the most popular products, including the ones I’ve targeted for an oily skin routine. How did I come up with them?
To start, I hit The Ordinary regimen builder on the Deciem website and, well, pretended I had oily skin. The products below are the results of my online consultation — and what appears to be the best skincare routine for oily skin composed of some of the best products from The Ordinary.
But first…
What Is Oily Skin and What Causes It?
If there’s one thing we can all agree on, no matter our skin type, it’s that oily skin isn’t fun. If you’re human and have any recollection of your teenage years, you likely struggled with oily skin and every oily skin concern imaginable, the most frustrating of which is acne.
There’s an excellent article on the causes and behaviors of oily skin, and solutions for mitigating the side-effects of excessive oiliness, from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled simply (and quite hilariously!), Help for Oily Skin.
It begins with an expression of true compassion that I find super cool:
If you struggle with the daily annoyance of a face that resembles an oil slick (something our founder Paula has struggled with herself for years), you know how difficult it is to get oily skin under control. Adding to the frustration, whether you know it or not, is the fact that that many of the products claiming to get rid of oil actually make matters worse because they contain ingredients that aggravate skin and trigger more oily shine. We’re here to help—armed with the research-backed facts for what really works.
I had forgotten that my muse, Paula Begoun, was herself an oily skin warrior in the early years of her mission to uncover the truth about skin, skincare and skincare ingredients.
An excerpt from the Paula’s Choice article on oily skin:
Understanding Oily Skin
Oily skin is hard to control because it's something we’re born with, kicking in sometime in our teen years or randomly as we age. Having oily skin is the same as being born with the predisposition for having thick hair or how tall you will be; you can’t stop those things any more than you can stop oily skin.
For those of us with super oily skin, it may be hard to believe a normal balanced oil flow from the pore does good things for skin. For example, it relieves dryness, maintains a healthy skin surface, and keeps skin pliable.
Oily skin obviously becomes maddening when too much oil is produced. This causes pores to become enlarged as they’re stretched beyond capacity to handle the amounts of oil being generated. It gets worse as the pore lining thickens, which blocks oil from getting to skin’s surface, resulting in blackheads and white bumps.
One myth to bust: Oily skin does not age less than dry skin. Oily skin may look less wrinkled because it is often less dry, but the cause of wrinkles is not something oily skin can stop or change.
If you’re curious, the article, Help for Oily Skin, goes into great detail including a recommendation for the best way to fix oily skin. Again, you can read the full piece here.
With a basic understanding of oily skin, let’s take a look at my oily skin product routine from The Ordinary’s regimen builder…
The Ordinary | Squalane Cleanser
I can’t say enough about The Ordinary’s skin-licious Squalane Cleanser — the one and only face wash that the brand offers. Not only is it dirt cheap (no pun intended!), but it’s a phenomenal cleanser that gets the job done.
Geez, where do I start?
Well, it’s just $7.90 for a 1.7 oz. / 50ml tube. One-point-seven ounces is relatively small for a facial cleanser and Deciem took some slack over it when it launched from die-hard fans of The Ordinary. But now you can triple that with the new larger size. At $19.90, The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser is still really affordable.
Psst…as part of the recently introduced The Balance Set, the Squalane Cleanser is even more affordable — and one of the best face cleansers for the money (or any money for that matter!).
Given the brand only offers one cleanser, I know it seems counterintuitive that The Ordinary’s Squalane Cleanser would be ideal for oily skin. And even more so since it’s a cleansing oil-cleansing balm hybrid. But if you subscribe to the belief that oil breaks up oil, then you completely get the reason why the Squalane Cleanser is for you, too.
The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser is aptly named because its first ingredient is quite simply Squalane — the super replenishing and emollient non-fragrant plant oil found in olives. Squalane also happens to be found in human skin, meaning it’s bio-compatible — the skin already recognizes it. And skin loves ingredients it knows!
What Is Squalane and What Does Squalane Do for Skin?
There’s an excellent article crafted by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, What is Squalane Oil and How Does it Benefit Skin? The piece delves into the what makes squalane unique and why it’s so uniquely beneficial to the skin.
What is Squalane Oil?
Squalane oil is an emollient, a type of ingredient that works very much like skin’s own oil (sebum) to prevent moisture loss. Chemically, it’s a hydrocarbon, a group of ingredients made of only hydrogen and carbon. Common skin-friendly hydrocarbons for skin include petrolatum and mineral oil; squalane is the primary one from the plant world, so it’s a good alternative if you want to avoid petrochemicals.
A unique aspect of squalane is that it’s a modified form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum (1, 2). This fact makes squalane an ingredient skin instantly recognizes and knows how to use, but there’s more to the story than simply being an emollient.
Some people wonder if squalane is a vegan ingredient; traditionally, the squalene from which it’s created was derived from shark liver oil. Today, the majority of skin care brands using squalane are choosing a plant-derived, sustainable source. It occurs naturally in olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils (1, 3). Paula’s Choice uses olive-derived vegan squalane. It can also be produced via biotechnology from the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisae, where it’s often referred to as sugar derived.
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Deciem says that, “the formula incorporates Squalane, alongside other lipophilic esters that are gentle, moisturizing, efficient in dissolving makeup and facial impurities and increasing the spreadability of the product.” I couldn’t have described it any better.
The Squalane Cleanser formula functions much like a cleansing balm or cleansing oil. You just massage a small amount onto dry skin for a truly ritualistic cleansing experience. Its thick, rich texture emulsifies with warm water to remove grime, sunscreen, makeup — and excess surface oil.
For me, it feels so effective that I often don’t bother to double cleanse after it, feeling that it’s done the job perfectly well. It’s simply a no-brainer for the price.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser for just $7.90 here.
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The Ordinary | Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
While I’m a fan The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, admittedly it’s not my go-to Niacinamide serum. That distinction always has, and always will, belong to the OG Niacinamide serum – the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster serum.
Why?
Because the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster is much, much more than a brightening Niacinamide treatment. It’s a perfectly well-rounded anti-aging product with antioxidant Vitamin C, humectant Sodium Hyaluronate and nourishing phospholipids. IMO the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster is the best anti-aging serum in the world. Period.
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE 10% NIACINAMIDE BOOSTER – THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM
That’s not to say that The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% isn’t a solid, pro-skin health treatment — because it certainly is. It’s among the best face serums with Niacinamide and is perhaps the best Niacinamide serum for oily skin.
As with most of The Ordinary’s products, it’s a basic, daily treatment. Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is an effective Niacinamide serum with added zinc that effectively flushes out pores, brightens the complexion, and delivers antioxidant protection to the skin.
But perhaps what’s most unique about The Ordinary’s version is the inclusion of one percent Zinc PCA. Zinc is believed to have a potential benefit for acne-prone skin, though the science is unsettled. Whether or not zinc in any form can help relieve blemish prone, Zinc PCA does have proven benefits for the overall health of the skin.
What Is Zinc PCA and What Does Zinc PCA Do for Skin?
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Zinc PCA is “a synthetic skin-conditioning ingredient derived from zinc. Research has shown it has anti-aging benefits due to its ability to thwart destructive enzymes in skin that can damage its surface and lead to an aged, wrinkled appearance.”
There is also some evidence that zinc can have a positive effect on oily skin and the occurrence of acne breakouts. I found an insightful piece on Coveteur titled, Zinc Up Your Beauty Routine For Clearer Skin that I found supportive of the theory.
An excerpt from the Coveteur article:
For an ingredient that’s been around in beauty for legit centuries, zinc has recently become somewhat of a cool kid on the skin-care block. Known best for its use in sunscreens and anti-dandruff treatments, zinc in all its various forms is now popping up in everything from trendy skin supplements to clarifying ranges and sensitive skin creams, all claiming to help clear up breakout-prone skin, reduce redness, and restore a vivacious glow to your complexion. But is it for real? Well, that depends on who you ask.
First, a quick primer on zinc: It’s an essential mineral for your health that helps boost your immune system and can help with wound healing. Our bodies don’t naturally produce it, meaning we need to eat zinc-rich foods or supplements in order to get our recommended daily amounts—8 mg for women, and 11 mg for men.
Additionally, zinc is known for being anti-inflammatory, which is where its place in skin care comes in. “Back in the early 1970s, doctor J. C. Fitzherbert first recognized an improvement in patients’ acne when treated with zinc,” says Dr. Morgan Rabach, board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of LM Medical NYC. It was used regularly on patients during that time, but eventually fell out of favor with derms, she notes, when more effective treatments were discovered.
That doesn’t necessarily mean zinc is old news—there are actually some promising studies being conducted that show there’s more to zinc than history has shown. “Zinc and acne is an interesting avenue,” says Dr. Kenneth Howe, a Manhattan dermatologist at Wexler Dermatology and assistant clinical professor at Mount Sinai. “There is quite a bit of evidence that both topical and ingestible zinc can be helpful, from studies showing it might be toxic to the bacteria that causes acne, to people with acne [possibly having] lower levels of zinc. But this is all fringe stuff—if you do a standard medical search, you don’t get much.”
Adds Dr. Ted Lain, board-certified dermatologist and chief medical officer at Sanova Dermatology, “The exact method of how zinc helps with acne is poorly understood. However, if zinc does help with acne, it may be related to its effect on sebum production, as an antibacterial agent, and/or as an anti-inflammatory. Zinc is well-known to help a few other inflammatory conditions, like seborrheic dermatitis.”
Whether your skin is oily, dry, or somewhere in between, a well-formulated Niacinamide serum should be your skin’s best friend. Of course, Niacinamide isn’t the only powerful active that has the ability to brighten your complexion. There are numerous skin brighteners including, of course, tried-and-true Ascorbic Acid, or Vitamin C.
And while the benefits of topical Vitamin C are broad, including antioxidant defense, collagen building and skin brightening, Niacinamide has the power to do even more. Yes, even more!
What Is Niacinamide and What Does Niacinamide Do for the Skin?
There’s a comprehensive article on the extensive pro-skin health benefits of Niacinamide by the skin experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, titled simply, How Niacinamide Helps Skin. An excerpt from the article:
How Niacinamide Helps Skin
Niacinamide is a skin care ingredient worthy of your attention and your skin will love you for using it. Among a handful of other amazing skin care ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C, niacinamide is a standout because of its versatility for almost any skin care concern and skin type.
As many of you know about us, but for those who don’t, the conclusions we make about any ingredient are always based on what the published research has shown to be true—and the research about niacinamide unanimously demonstrates how special it is. New research keeps showing it’s one of the most exciting skin care ingredients around.
What is Niacinamide?
Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface.
Niacinamide also reduces the impact of environmental damage because of its ability to improve skin’s barrier (its first line of defense), plus it also plays a role in helping skin to repair signs of past damage. Left unchecked, this type of daily assault makes skin appear older, dull, and less radiant.
Why You Should Use Niacinamide
As you might have gathered, we’re very impressed with all that niacinamide can do for skin when applied via skin care products like toners, serums, and highly concentrated leave-on treatments. Niacinamide is uniquely compatible with any of the products in your skin care routine, including those that contain retinol, peptides, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHA, vitamin C, and all types of antioxidants.
You can use multiple niacinamide-containing products in your routine, and it will still be non-sensitizing as this ingenious B vitamin is well tolerated by all skin types. It’s even suitable for use by those with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.
Other helpful benefits of niacinamide are that it helps renew and restore the surface of skin against moisture loss and dehydration by helping skin improve its natural production of skin-strengthening ceramides. When ceramides become depleted over time, skin is left vulnerable to all sorts of problems, from persistent patches of dry, flaky skin to increasingly becoming extra-sensitive.
If you struggle with dry skin, topical application of niacinamide has been shown to boost the hydrating ability of moisturizers so skin’s surface can better resist the moisture loss that leads to recurrent dry, tight, flaky skin. Niacinamide works brilliantly with common moisturizer ingredients like glycerin, non-fragrant plant oils, cholesterol, sodium PCA, and sodium hyaluronate.
How does niacinamide help pores? Great question, although the answer here isn’t certain. Simply put, research hasn’t come to a full understanding about how this B vitamin works its pore-reducing magic, but it does! It seems that niacinamide has a normalizing ability on the pore lining, and that this influence plays a role in keeping debris from getting backed up, which leads to clogs and rough, bumpy skin. As the clog forms and worsens, the pores stretch to compensate, and what you’ll see is enlarged pores. By helping things get back to normal, niacinamide use helps pores return to their normal size. Sun damage can cause pores to become stretched, too, leading to what some describe as "orange peel skin". Higher concentrations of niacinamide can help visibly tighten pores by shoring up skin’s supportive elements.
NIACINAMIDE IS THE GAME CHANGER YOU NEED TO DEFEND AGAINST SKIN DAMAGE AND MAINTAIN OPTIMAL SKIN HEALTH
Among the most important benefits of the form of Vitamin B are brightening, pore-clarifying, antioxidant defense, sebum control (hey, oily skins that’s you!) and smoothing a rough skin texture. As I’ve said, there’s simply nothing as effective — and as broadly beneficial for optimizing the health of your skin that a damn good Niacinamide serum.
My most recent deep dive into all-things Niacinamide was published just as 2020 came to a welcome close. Titled, Niacinamide Is the Game Changer You Need to Defend Against Skin Damage and Maintain Optimal Skin Health, the piece featured five of my favorite Niacinamide serums — some of which continue to be staples in my daily skincare regimen. The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% was among them!
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is a relatively simple, effective treatment that easily amps up any skincare routine with regular, daily (even twice daily use!). And if you’re oily, a Niacinamide serum like this one is mandatory.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% for just $5.90 here.
The Best Niacinamide Serums and Treatments
The Ordinary | Salicylic Acid 2% Masque
Look, sometimes masking can be messy. You know the drill: you get mask in your hair, you get it stuck in your eyebrows, some of it ends up on the floor — which is always the case with that ridiculous Dr. Jart’s Shake & Shot rubber mask. More of it ends up on the bathroom floor than on your face!
If you think that mask is messy, The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Masque is next-level messy. But unlike Shake & Shot, which is more skin gimmick than skin care, the Salicylic Acid 2% Masque has legit benefits for skin.
The Ordinary says that the Salicylic Acid 2% Masque “is formulated to target lackluster tone and textural irregularities. The formula, infused with charcoal and clays, aims to enhance the appearance of smoothness and clarity, leaving the skin feeling refreshed.” In other words, it helps clear skin!
It’s a relatively simple, yet effective formula for all skin types, but particularly acne-prone skins that can most benefit from the power of Salicylic Acid.
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What Is Salicylic Acid?
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Salicylic Acid is among the best ingredients for promoting skin health and for the maintenance of oily, acne-prone skin:
“Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, which is a desmolytic ingredient. That means it targets certain protein bonds in skin, known as desmosomes, that keep dead cells clinging to skin instead of sloughing off. Skin’s natural shedding process can become faulty due to age, sun damage, and problems like acne and excess oil. Exfoliating helps restore this natural ability.
“Salicylic acid is unique because it not only loosens the bonds between dead skin on the surface but also deep in the pore lining, where spent cells mix with oil and debris, becoming trapped below the surface. Left unchecked, all this buildup leads to dull, rough skin and clogged pores, setting the stage for blackheads and bumps.
“Compared to water-soluble alpha hydroxy acids, this type of acid is oil soluble, so it’s able to get through the oil, thinning it so it can flow freely to skin’s surface where your cleanser washes it away. Its oil-soluble nature makes it preferred for oily, breakout-prone skin, and it’s why medicated salicylic acid products for acne work so well; however, all skin types can benefit from this ingredient.”
The first four ingredients in The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Masque are water, Kaolin, Squalane and Glycerin. That 2% Salicylic Acid comes in somewhere around sixth on the INCI — with charcoal powder a few ingredients later. I have no idea what level of charcoal powder is effective for skin — but it sure is messy!
Apparently, two percent charcoal powder is enough to power a bathroom disaster, creating grayish beads of water that splatter all over the bathroom sink, walls, floor and god-only-knows where else. I love this little messy mask on #selfcaresunday almost as much as I love tacos on Taco Tuesday.
If you manage oily skin from day to day, The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Masque is ideal for you as a weekly or bi-weekly treatment that can help flush out pores and moderate sebum production. And if you’re curious, you can catch the #messyaf Salicylic Acid 2% Masque in action on my YouTube channel here.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque for $12 here.
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The Ordinary | Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
It’s kinda funny, but I’ve never really gotten into The Ordinary’s Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA — not at the level that I appreciate the brand’s more sophisticated moisturizing, skin-replenishing facial oils.
The Ordinary’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane is one of my favorite facial oils for the in-between season days when it’s neither very cold nor very warm outside. It’s perfect for hoodie weather in September and October — whether you’re moderately oily or moderately dry. The 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane is what’s termed a dry oil, meaning it’s not wet and heavy on the skin, doesn’t leave a greasy feel – and is absorbed almost immediately. It’s such a treat for all!
In classic Ordinary fashion, 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane literally contains just a single ingredient — C13-16 Isoparaffin, or Hemi-Squalane. Doesn’t that sound phenomenally boring? But I love it!
And that’s my point about Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA: it’s kinda boring.
Interestingly, The Ordinary’s Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA is not a single-note product; rather, it’s a straight-up basic moisturizer. But a really well-formulated one — and a treasure trove of skin-nourishing actives, including a slew of amino acids and fatty acids, natural components of skin’s own natural moisturizing factors or NMF’s.
Components of the skin’s upper layers like amino acids, ceramides, phospholipids and hyaluronic acid combine to protect the skin barrier and help skin to retain moisture and hydration, meaning they prevent dehydrating water loss. Basic skin stuff.
What Are Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF’s) and What Are the Natural Moisturizing Factors of the Skin?
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, “natural moisturizing factors” are naturally occurring in the skin and are among the best ingredients for promoting skin health. Natural moisturizing factors, or NMF’s, are described as:
Substances within skin’s uppermost layers that help keep it smooth, hydrated and healthy-looking. Topical application helps reinforce skin’s surface so skin takes on a younger, replenished appearance.
NMFs make up an expansive group of ingredients that include amino acids, lactic acid, sodium PCA, various sugars and minerals, and peptides. Together with the naturally-occurring lipids in skin (examples would be ceramides, cholesterol, and glycosaminoglycans), NMF’s work to keep skin’s surface intact and supple.
It is worth noting that routine exposure to sensitizing ingredients like drying cleanising agents and denatured alcohol cause serious depletion of skin’s natural moisturizing factors, leading to visibly dry, tight-feeling, flaky skin.
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The Ordinary’s Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA contains everything skin needs from an everyday moisturizer — no matter your skin type. In addition to multiple amino acids, there are humectants Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate as well Linoleic Acid and Oleic Acid — two superb sources of fatty acids. There’s also soothing Allantoin, Urea, Lecithin and Vitamin E, making for a light textured, nourishing cream that feels great on the skin.
The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA is a relatively lightweight face cream that’s ideal for all skin types — with the exception of very oily or seriously acne prone.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA for just $5.80 here.
The Ordinary | Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
True skincare innovations are not nearly as common as you’d think, given the number of new products and brands that launch every year. And when it comes to ingredients, it’s even more rare. Ingredient complexes, blends, combinations, sure. But new skincare ingredients are few and far between.
What’s more common when it comes to skincare actives is the repurposing of ingredients and their use at higher concentrations. It wasn’t that long ago that Niacinamide was relatively unknown. Of course, as a form of Niacin, or Vitamin B3, it’s been around since the dawn of time, like Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Vitamin A — of which Retinol is a derivative.
Introduced in or around 2015, the 10% Niacinamide Booster serum from Paula’s Choice put Niacinamide on the map. With its ability to protect, maintain and restore skin health, it quickly became one of the best anti-aging serums in the world.
PAULA’S CHOICE NIACINAMIDE 20% TREATMENT - THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM TO TREAT CLOGGED PORES
Then, in 2019, the brand introduced the Niacinamide 20% Treatment — with double the Niacinamide potency of the original. At a 20% concentration, Niacinamide not only delivers effective antioxidant defense, brightening of the complexion and skin barrier strengthening, but a surface retexturizing that rivals direct acids like Glycolic Acid — without the redness, sensitivity and irritation.
Until rather recently, it wasn’t widely known or accepted that ingredients like Niacinamide, Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid were particularly useful for moderating oily skin. Azelaic Acid is the new kid on the block and if you’re really oily or acne-prone, don’t overlook this unsung hero.
What Is Azelaic Acid and What Is Azelaic Acid Good for?
Azelaic Acid is one of those hidden gem ingredients that seem to have been repurposed and repositioned as a highly effective, reliable substance for promoting skin health. Like Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid, which are both oily skin essentials, anyone can use Azelaic Acid.
Yet, derived from grains like wheat and barley, Azelaic Acid is ideal for controlling oily skin and one of the most vexing concerns of those with oily skin — acne.
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team,
A type of acid known as a dicarboxylic acid derived from grains that offers numerous benefits when applied to skin. For example, it’s a gentle leave-on exfoliant which helps unclog pores and refine skin texture. Azelaic acid also significantly lessens factors in skin that lead to redness and bumps. Azelaic acid is also an antioxidant.
Research has shown azelaic acid can significantly diminish blemishes, help fade the appearance of post-acne red marks and other discolorations, and reduce the kind of skin sensitivity that leads to redness.
Although azelaic acid can be derived from grains like barley, wheat, and rye, its lab-engineered form is typically used in skincare products because of its stability and effectiveness. Because of this, azelaic acid is considered a synthetic ingredient, but this is a clear case where the synthetic version outperforms the natural version, with no research indicating a risk to skin.
Azelaic acid is available in strengths of 10% or less over-the-counter, and in topical prescription products at concentrations between 15-20%.
For oily skin, The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is seeing some real time in the light — and justifiably so. It’s the perfect layering treatment that’s easily incorporated into an oily skin routine.
With the light creamy texture of a face lotion, it could easily be mistaken for a moisturizer. It is not. In fact, there are no replenishing ingredients in the Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, aside from a small amount of Vitamin E. That’s not going to feed the skin what it needs from a good replenishing moisturizer.
The Ordinary says its Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% “visibly brightens the skin tone, improves the evenness of skin texture, reduces the look of blemishes, and offers antioxidant support.” If your skin tends to be irritated — and many oily and acne prone skins are — then The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is the perfect treatment for rebalancing and soothing your reactive skin.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% for just $7.90 here.
That’s it, guys! I hope you’ll take advantage of The Ordinary’s regimen builder to find your perfect regimen — and the best skincare routine for oily skin, dry skin and every skin in between.
See you next week…
💟 Carmine @skincarma
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The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%:
cci|sb|aacne|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Zinc Pca 
aacne|h, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum h|vc, Xanthan Gum vc|emu|surf, Isoceteth-20 emu|surf, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amicThe Ingredient List of The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser:
sii|emo 0 1, Aqua (Water) solv, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate emo, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Sucrose Stearate emo|emu|surf 0 0, Ethyl Macadamiate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Sucrose Laurate emo|emu|surf, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate h, Sucrose Dilaurate emo|emu|surf, Sucrose Trilaurate emu|surf, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 vc, Isoceteth-20 emu|surf, Sodium Polyacrylate vc|emo, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone aox|so, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Malic Acid exf|buff, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amicThe Ingredient List of The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA:
sii|h 0 0, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Arginine sii, Aspartic Acid sii, Glycine sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Valine sii, Isoleucine sii, Proline sii, Threonine sii, Histidine sii|h, Phenylalanine sii, Glucose h, Maltose h, Fructose h, Trehalose h, Sodium PCA sii|h 0 0, PCA sii|h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Urea sii|h, Allantoin so 0 0, Linoleic Acid sii|emo|surf, Oleic Acid emo|emu, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Palmitic Acid sii|emo|emu 0 2, Stearic Acid emo|vc 0 2-3, Lecithin emo|emu, Triolein vc, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Carbomer vc 0 1, Isoceteth-20 emu|surf, Polysorbate 60 emu|surf, Sodium Chloride vc, Citric Acid buff, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Triethanolamine buff 0 2, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin. pres|amicThe Ingredient List of The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque:
col|abrasive/scrub 0 0, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Silica Cetyl Silylate vc, Salicylic Acid exf|aacne|so|pres, Sodium Polyacrylate vc|emo, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Charcoal Powder abrasive/scrub, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol so|cci|perf, Sclerotium Gum vc, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum vc|emu|surf, Phytic Acid chel, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Chlorphenesin pres|amic, Phenoxyethanol presThe Ingredient List of The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%:
aacne|so|buff, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer emo|vc, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer vc, Polysilicone-11, Isohexadecane emo|solv, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Isoceteth-20 emu|surf, Polysorbate 60 emu|surf, Triethanolamine buff 0 2, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amic
