PRODUCT REVIEW: DR. DENNIS GROSS ADVANCED RETINOL + FERULIC TEXTURE RENEWAL SERUM - BEST RETINOL CREAM, BEST RETINOL SERUM
DR. DENNIS GROSS | ADVANCED RETINOL + FERULIC TEXTURE RENEWAL SERUM
I first featured this new and vastly improved Retinol serum from Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare on my IG page two weeks ago on #skincarmasaturday — when I share a glimpse of my new skincare discoveries of the week.
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I’m a big fan of Dr. Gross’ original Ferulic + Retinol range. Though likely a breakthrough when it launched, the Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum has been dated for some time.
To start, Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum wasn’t a clean formula and while I’m okay with skincare that’s not 100% clean, the brand’s original Retinol range had too many essential oils for my taste (and my skin!).
I’m excited to be among the first to try the new, improved Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum and Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum.
Best Retinol Face Creams and Serums
While I’d discovered Dr. Dennis Gross’ Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum years ago, it wasn’t my initial experience with Retinol. That was actually the Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment. Paula’ now iconic anti-aging serum is what made Retinol an indispensable part of my regular skincare routine.
My first experience with the Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment was like playing with fire. Retinol is like that. You have to proceed with caution. Many people build up a tolerance for it that allows them to use it daily.
Not me. I can use a Retinol treatment once, at most twice, a week. You have to find your own balance. It took me a long time to accept that I wasn’t going to get up to daily use — and didn’t need to.
RETINOL, RETINOIDS, RETINOIC ACID: BEST RETINOL SERUMS, BEST RETINOL CREAMS
What Is Retinol and What Does Retinol Do for the Skin?
It’s commonly accepted that Retinol and retinoids, more specifically, are the gold standard in anti-aging. Like Vitamin C and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), the Vitamin A derivative has multiple pro-skin health, anti-aging benefits. Among them are the smoothing of lines and wrinkles, potent antioxidant defense and visible skin firming. As with Niacinamide, topical retinoids — as all derivatives of Vitamin A are referred to — can even minimize the appearance of pores and defend skin against aging environmental damage.
There’s a superb piece on retinoids by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, The Complete Guide To Retinol: The Anti-Aging (And Anti-Acne) Hero — which you can catch here. Here is what I found most salient:
Retinol is classified as a Cell-Communicating Ingredient, which means that it can tell a skin cell how to behave. Retinol ‘tells’ developing skin cell in the lower layers of the skin – called the dermis, to develop normally, instead of a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell. This is how, over time, Retinol can address multiple skin concerns.
Another way Retinol works is also by telling the older cells in the upper layer of skin to die quicker which in turn allows the newer, healthier skin to surface faster. This quicker skin cell turnover rate, paired with cell communicating abilities is what makes Retinol such a superstar!
There are many derivatives and strengths of retinoids available in both over-the-counter (OTC) and prescription products today. The term “Retinol” is the name of the purest form of Vitamin A, and used most often to refer to the non-prescription version of Retinoids.
However, Retinol itself is not active. It has to go through a conversion process in the skin to get to the active form which is then usable by the skin.
Retinyl Palmitate –> Retinol — > Retinaldehyde –> All-Trans-Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)
There are many forms of retinoids used in skincare today and it can get confusing. Brands and their formulators have multiple format options in seemingly infinite concentrations, depending on the formulation and the product’s claims positioning. Here is a breakdown of the most common forms with a brief description.
Retinyl Palmitate
This form of Vitamin A is created by combining Retinol, or pure Vitamin A, and palmitic acid – a saturated fatty acid derived from palm oil. Retinyl Palmitate is actually naturally occurring in the skin. Because of the lengthy conversion process required within the skin, it’s the least effective of the retinoids. As the weakest form, it’s also generally the most well tolerated.
Retinyl Palmitate gets a bad rap and is on the clean beauty ingredient hit lists of both Sephora and Credo, meaning a formula that contains it cannot be classified as “clean”. According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, the claims that it’s unsafe are “based on a study from nearly 20 years ago that has never been reproduced or tested under real-life conditions such as how people use sunscreens that contain this ingredient.”
Retinol
The term “retinol” has become the catch-all for all forms of retinoids in skincare marketing. To be exact, Retinol is the name for the entire vitamin A molecule and the purest form of the antioxidant vitamin. While its anti-aging benefits are proven, it also has legitimate downsides; notably, Retinol can cause extreme sensitization, irritation, redness, dryness and unsightly flaking of the skin.
What causes Retinol irritation? Well, in order to achieve the unparalleled results of Retinol, the molecule must go through a lengthy molecular transformation in the skin as it converts to retinoic acid. It is this conversion process that causes the significant downsides associated with Retinol.
Ironically, while it’s known for causing skin sensitivity, Retinol is also quite sensitive itself. It needs to be packaged in an opaque, air-tight pump as it easily degrades in the presence of light and air. Just like its BFF Vitamin C!
Retinaldehyde (Retinal)
Retinal is even more potent and effective on the retinoid scale than Retinol itself. Interestingly, “Retinaldehyde has promise in being an anti-acne treatment, without the same harsh side effects of its prescription cousins.”
Because it is perhaps the most expensive of the retinoid class, it’s seldom used in topical skincare products — and is reserved for the savvy marketers who want their Retinol treatment to sound unique and to boast the highest efficacy without a prescription. The default is most often to formulate with the less expensive Retinol. Because of its higher potency, Retinaldehyde is used in lower concentrations, which can give the impression that the formula is weaker from a marketing perspective.
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE 0.3% RETINOL + 2% BAKUCHIOL TREATMENT - BEST RETINOL FACE CREAM
Retinyl Retinoate
This synthetic form of Vitamin A is part of a new generation of retinoids. Because of its slower conversion in the skin into Retinoic Acid, studies have shown it to be less problematic for skin than Retinol and pure form of topical Retinoic Acid — more commonly known as Tretinoin or Retin-A.
Because of the serious downsides of using Retinol, Retinyl Retinoate may become increasingly popular in the years ahead.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) or Granactive Retinoid
Marketed as Granactive Retinoid, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is the newest and most promising member of the class of anti-aging retinoids. HPR is an ester of retinoic acid with benefits on par with prescription-strength retinoic acid, commonly known as Tretinoin or Retin-A. The greatest benefit is that HPR is more readily tolerated by the skin, with none of the side effects of Retinol or retinoic acid — including irritation, sensitivity, dryness and flakiness.
How is it possible to have the upside without the downside? In order for the skin to benefit from Retinol, the Vitamin A molecule goes through a transformation process as it converts to retinoic acid in the skin. It is this conversion that leads to the irritation common to Retinol. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate does not require a lengthy conversion in order to achieve the sought-after anti-aging benefits of Retinol, making it far more tolerable.
RETINOL, RETINOIDS, RETINOIC ACID PART TWO: BEST RETINOL CREAMS FROM DRUNK ELEPHANT, SHANI DARDEN & MORE
Tretinoin / Retin-A
With Retinyl Palmitate at the low end of the retinoid scale, Tretinoin (or Retin-A) is at the exact opposite end — the strongest of the retinoids known as retinoic acid, the generic name for synthetic Vitamin A. Tretinoin is only available by prescription in most countries — except notably, Mexico, where its access is quite pervasive. Even I have been caught up in grabbing tubes of Retin-A at the airport before my flights home.
While Tretinoin is commonly used to treat signs of aging including fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots, the versatile medication is also an effective treatment for acne and sun-damaged skin. According to the Healthline website, “It may sound counterintuitive, but tretinoin works by irritating the skin. Tretinoin is able to speed up the life cycle of skin cells. It makes them divide faster and die faster, so newer, healthier cells can take their place.”
Let’s take a look at Dr. Gross’ Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum — among the best Retinol serums for face…
Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum
Meet new Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum, a super smart upgrade of the original — the Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum. Not only does the new serum contain anti-aging Retinol, but there are actually two Retinol alternatives — neither of which were even used in skincare back when the original serum came out.
Included in the new Advanced Retinol + Ferulic formula are Bakuchiol and Rambutan, an extract I’ve now seen in three products this year.
Among the anti-aging products infused with Rambutan is the Alpyn Beauty Wild Nettle & Niacinamide Firming Serum. It’s a superb natural serum and among the best organic anti-aging serums I’ve come across.
While Bakuchiol is a clinically proven Retinol alternative, Rambutan has no clinical studies that prove anything that I’ve seen.
For several years now, Bakuchiol has been a reliable alternative to Retinol — with dozens (maybe hundreds!) of anti-aging face creams and serums now made with it.
Today, the best Bakuchiol serums are ideal for those who are leery of Retinol or can’t tolerate its anti-aging potency. Perhaps the best of these Bakuchiol face creams is the Paula’s Choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment — which is a genius formula that combines Retinol and Bakuchiol.
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE 0.3% RETINOL + 2% BAKUCHIOL TREATMENT - BEST RETINOL FACE CREAM
Dr. Gross’ Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum is packed with pro-skin health actives. There are a few exfoliating AHA’s in the form of Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract – a natural exfoliating extract that mimics the benefits of Salicylic Acid.
The Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum formula also contains and a slew of humectants and antioxidants. Beyond the antioxidant benefits of Ferulic Acid, Bakuchiol and Retinol are Ubiquinone and Morus Alba Bark Extract.
There are several moisturizing, replenishing plant oils — all of them non-fragrant.
To test out the formulas tolerability on my sometimes sensitive skin, I used Dr. Gross’ Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum nightly for two weeks and am happy to report I saw zero irritation. Let’s go 2.0…
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum for $72 here.
The Best Vitamin C Serums and Face Creams
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare | Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum
The Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum is the more intriguing of Dr. Dennis Gross’ two Retinol products for me. Like most sane people, I’m always wary of Retinol around my eyes.
I have to admit that I love the texture of the new Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum!
It’s a surprisingly thick gel so it certainly stays put, if a concern for oozing into your eyes is stopping you from using anti-aging Retinol in the eye area.
Again, as with the Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum, I experienced no irritation around my eyes (and good thing, right?!). This anti-aging eye cream is super refreshing, too.
I don’t think I’ve comes across anything similar to it TBH. It’s that unique and that good.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum for $85 here.
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NIACINAMIDE IS THE GAME CHANGER YOU NEED - THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE & MORE!
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The Ingredient List of the Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum:
Water/Aqua/Eau, Propylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Lactic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Mandelic Acid, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Nephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract, Ferulic Acid, Squalane, Linoleic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Phospholipids, Soy Isoflavones, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharide Isomerate, Ubiquinone, Sodium PCA, Hexylresorcinol, Quercetin, Adenosine, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Panthenol, Glycolic Acid, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Potassium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate.
The Ingredient List of the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare
Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum:
Water/Aqua/Eau, Propylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Bakuchiol, Retinol, Nephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract, Ferulic Acid, Ubiquinone, Quercetin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharide Isomerate, Phospholipids, Centella Asiatica Extract, Caffeine, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Salicylic Acid, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Glycolic Acid, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Tetrapeptide-21, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Mandelic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Maltodextrin, PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492).
