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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: DRUNK ELEPHANT PROTINI POWERPEPTIDE RESURFACING SERUM – BEST LACTIC ACID SERUM, BEST ANTI-AGING PEPTIDE SERUM

PRODUCT REVIEW: DRUNK ELEPHANT PROTINI POWERPEPTIDE RESURFACING SERUM – BEST LACTIC ACID SERUM, BEST ANTI-AGING PEPTIDE SERUM

DRUNK ELEPHANT PROTINI POWERPEPTIDE RESURFACING SERUM

This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, Lactic Acid Treatments I'm into from Sunday Riley, Kat Burki and Drunk Elephant – Best Lactic Acid Serums, Best Exfoliating Serums with Lactic Acid. You can catch the full piece here.

A sub-zero cryofacial, like the ones I get weekly at my favorite new-age spa, isn’t the only way to get your skin lit. Today, there are multiple skincare treatments and active ingredients that can instantly brighten a dull looking complexion. Both Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Vitamin C are proven skin brighteners with the additional benefit of antioxidant protection, skin strengthening and even retexturing the skin surface.

In fact, I use high concentrations of each vitamin in my daily skincare routines. And, in the case of Niacinamide, I use multiple products twice daily, including serums, toners and moisturizers that are infused with the antioxidant powerhouse. It’s central to what I refer to as pore maintenance. Daily pore maintenance is the act of deep cleaning pores each day to keep skin functioning at its optimal best!

And I make no secret of the fact that I believe the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster to be among the best anti-aging serums on Earth. It’s the star product at the heart of my daily pore maintenance regimen and not a day goes by that I don’t use it at least once.

Which means I go through about a bottle of it a month!

PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE 10% NIACINAMIDE BOOSTER – THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM

While Niacinamide and Vitamin C serums make superb skin brighteners, they aren’t the only topical skincare products that can get even the dullest complexion glowing. A well-formulated exfoliating acid treatment does the trick, too.

Like vitamin-infused products, acid treatments come in multiple forms. There are acid serums, acid masks and, perhaps the most popular, acid toners infused with exfoliating alpha hydroxy acids, or AHA’s, like Glycolic Acid and my personal fave, Lactic Acid, made from milk.

There are toners infused with beta hydroxy acids, or BHA’s, like Salicylic Acid that power wash pores. There are even toners formulated with both AHA’s and BHA’s; lately many are also made with the newest and gentlest of the exfoliating hydroxy acids, PHA’s — or polyhydroxy acid. Among the new class of PHA’s are Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid.

ACID TONERS – SOME OF THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, FARMACY AND MORE

I love a good acid toner, but have to confess that my skin doesn’t always tolerate them very well. And that’s okay. I’ve made peace with the fact that Glycolic Acid isn’t my BFF. Except when using it to deodorize my underarms as my daily deodorant! So, we’ve found a way to coexist. Psst…you can catch my article titled, Skincare Hacks: Glycolic Acid Is the Natural Deodorant that Works! on the blog here.

Even though Glycolic Acid is considered the best acid to exfoliate the skin and instantly brighten the complexion, I prefer its kinder, gentler sibling, Lactic Acid. Like Niacinamide, my skin loves Lactic Acid in multiple products, multiple times a day, and at any concentration.

WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


What Is Lactic Acid and What Does Lactic Acid Do for the Skin?

Lactic Acid is my favorite of the range of alpha hydroxy acids. That’s not something I can say about it’s more powerful AHA partner in crime, Glycolic Acid. But what makes it so uniquely effective? There’s a great piece on the benefits of Lactic Acid written by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, Lactic Acid for Skin. You can catch the full article here. Here is an excerpt:

Lactic acid is a skin care ingredient that quickly delivers numerous benefits when applied in a well-formulated exfoliating product. When used in a pH-correct formula (whether designed to be left on skin or in a high-strength peel that’s rinsed after several minutes), lactic acid works by gently breaking the bonds that hold dead, dry skin cells to the surface.

If you’re using a rinse-off peel with lactic acid, do so once weekly or every other week. Apply the peel to cleansed skin, leave on for the designated amount of time, rinse, and follow with the rest of your skincare routine.

These dead cells shed on their own when we’re young, but sun damage, aging, and certain skin issues can slow or even stop this process, leading to a buildup of dead skin that creates a dull, older-looking complexion. Regular use of an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) like lactic acid can turn this around.

As with other acids, research shows lactic acid’s ability to exfoliate effectively depends on the product’s acid concentration, with amounts between 5-12% having reliably impressive results.


And because I love Lactic Acid-infused products so much, I’ve amassed quite a collection of what I consider the best Lactic Acid serums, toners, moisturizers and masks anywhere. I’ve narrowed my recommendations down to a handful and am happy to share a few of them below.

Among my favorites are the Kat Burki Goji Essence — one of the most effective Lactic Acid toners I’ve tried. It’s also an absolute pleasure to use and brings me a ridiculous amount of skincare joy. #iykyk

Perhaps no article about Lactic Acid would be complete without the iconic Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment from Sunday Riley. Hands-down, I consider it to be the OG Lactic Acid serum.

New to the scene, and following in the footsteps of Good Genes, is the peptide-powered Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum. I’m a longtime fan of Drunk Elephant’s Protini Polypeptide Cream and believe that, at $68, it’s the most expensive moisturizer I would ever buy.

PRODUCT REVIEW: DRUNK ELEPHANT PROTINI POLYPEPTIDE MOISTURIZER – BEST ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZER

The fourth and final of my Lactic Acid recos is the microbiome-balancing, supremely pro-skin health Layers Probiotic Serum. The new Layers brand is focused on overall microbiome health — from the inner gut to outer skin surface. I recently reviewed the brand here.

With that, let’s take a look at one of the Lactic Acid products my skin absolutely can’t get enough of…


Drunk Elephant | Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum

Yes, I love Lactic Acid. That sounds kinda weird, doesn’t it? But it’s quite true. For my skin, Lactic Acid is the most effective acid exfoliant. So yeah, I’m a fan.

I’m also a fan of Drunk Elephant — like all serious skincare users. And I’m fond of numerous Drunk Elephant products, among them the Slaai Makeup-Melting Butter Cleanser — one of the best cleansers for dry skin in winter. I also really like Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma Vitamin C Day Serum. It’s quite literally one of the best brightening serums with Vitamin C!

Oh and how could I forget Drunk Elephant’s E-Rase Milki Micellar Water??? I’d never come across a milky cleansing water before it. E-Rase has a thick, milky texture that reminds me very much of the Dr. Jart Ceramidin Liquid.

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PRODUCT REVIEW: DRUNK ELEPHANT E-RASE MILKI MICELLAR WATER – ONE OF THE BEST CLEANSERS FOR DRY SKIN

So with my fanboy love of Lactic Acid and just about anything from Drunk Elephant I was super excited to be among the first to try the brand’s new Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum. If you’ve ever tried the OG Lactic Acid treatment, the Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment, then you know what’s up with this one. (And if you haven’t…what are you waiting for?)

Both the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum and Good Genes are equally effective exfoliating serums powered by my favorite acid exfoliant. I am not 100% certain what the level of Lactic Acid is in Good Genes, but it’s somewhere around a 5% concentration.

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When testing it out, I used the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum nearly nightly for about two weeks and saw no signs of irritation, particularly on my overly sensitive forehead. My forehead is always the indicator that a product is too harsh for my skin as its the only place on my face that’s reactive.

In addition to a 10% concentration of Lactic Acid, the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum formula contains eleven signal peptides, rather blandly referred to as a Signal Peptide Complex.


What Are Signal Peptides in Skincare and What Do Peptides Do for Skin?

As I understand it, signal peptides communicate with cells, prompting them to function more efficiently. Signal peptides can help teach damaged skin to rebuild itself by relocating proteins in the cell membrane. Such wonky science!

There’s a terrific article on all things peptides by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team simply titled, Peptides for Skin. Here’s an insightful excerpt from the piece:

What Are Peptides?

First, we need to start with the science: Peptides are fragments of proteins. On their own, peptides are made up of amino acids. When amino acids are combined in certain formations they create specific peptides (and there are hundreds of peptides), and when peptides are formed in a certain way, they make specific proteins.

Proteins are the fundamental building blocks of skin. Without peptides, skin doesn’t remain intact and the result is loss of firmness, appearance of wrinkles, texture changes, and skin that doesn’t bounce back as it once did.

What’s so fascinating about peptides is that abundant research has clearly shown that each of them works in very specific ways to target an exact skin care need. They also teach skin to do what's required to help revitalize these building blocks, which can help revive aging skin.

Peptides in Skin Care: A Balanced View

Although there are intriguing reasons to consider peptides as a significant part of a skin care formula as we did with our unique PEPTIDE BOOSTER, we also want you to know there's a lot of hype around what they can do. Sadly, the hype is often completely blown out of proportion. Peptides can do amazing things for skin, but they do not replace what cosmetic corrective procedures can do, as many companies have claimed over the years. 

There's no single ingredient solution for all the signs of aging and other skin problems we endure, and peptides are no exception. You would be cheating your skin to think that any single peptide (or any other specific skin care ingredient) is your skin's solo rescuer. We use this multi-ingredient "cocktail" approach when we formulate all Paula's Choice Skincare products, including our PEPTIDE BOOSTER, which contains a mix of eight distinctive peptides, several amino acids, and skin-replenishing ingredients.

Promising new research has us excited about using peptides in skin care products. Their ability to help revitalize skin's building blocks so it becomes more resilient is a wonderful asset for skin, but keep your expectations realistic, or you will be disappointed.


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In addition to anti-aging peptides in the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum, there are multiple amino acids in the formula — as well as a number of powerful antioxidants, including Green Tea Extract and Apple Fruit Extract.

It’s the texture of the Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum for me though! It’s a super light, semi-translucent serum that’s quite easily layered into any skincare routine.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum for $82 here.


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THE YEAR’S BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH THE ORDINARY, CLINIQUE, BEAUTY STAT & MORE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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AMPERNA PROBIOTIC SKINCARE AND TWO OF THE BEST ANTI-AGING SERUMS FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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IT’S A SELFCARE SUNDAY WITH MARIO BADESCU!

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The Ingredient List of the Kat Burki Goji Essence:

KB5™ Complex (Arnica Montana (Arnica), Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola), Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender), Calendula Officinalis (Calendula), Matricaria Recutita (Chamomile)), Goji Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Globularia Cordifolia Callus Culture Extract (Plant Stem Cells), Silk Protein Amino Acid Blend (Sodium Pca, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Lecithin, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine), Matrixyl-3000 (Glycerin, Water, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate-20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green Tea), Ubiquinone (Coq10), Sodium Lactate (Lactic Acid), Bursera Linaloe Wood Oil (Linaloe), Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil (Orange), Citrus Aurantium Leaf Oil (Orange), Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil (Mandarin Orange), Caprylyl Glucoside (Plantasol), Natural Fragrance, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene.

The Ingredient List of the Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment:

The Ingredient List of the Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum:

Water/Aqua/Eau solv, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Lactic Acid exf|h|buff, Dicaprylyl Carbonate emo, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Glycine Max (Soybean) Seed Extract, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil emo, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil h, Sodium PCA sii|h 0 0, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil so|emo, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide h, Tocotrienols, SH-Oligopeptide-1 cci, SH-Oligopeptide-2 cci, SH-Polypeptide-1 cci, SH-Polypeptide-9 cci, SH-Polypeptide-11 cci, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 , Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 cci, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 cci, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 cci, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 cci, Tripeptide-1 cci, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract h, Propanediol solv|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Panthenol so|h 0 0, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Pca sii|h, Alanine sii, Arginine sii, Glycine sii, Histidine sii|h, Isoleucine sii, Phenylalanine sii, Proline sii, Serine sii, Threonine sii, Valine sii, Adenosine cci, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract aox|h, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract, Dextran vc, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil aox|emo, Linoleic Acid sii|emo|surf, Linolenic Acid sii|emo|surf|perf, Butylene Glycol h|solv|vc 0 1, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes emo|solv, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate emo, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Isomalt h, Lecithin emo|emu, Xanthan Gum vc, Aspartic Acid sii, Phytosphingosine sii|cci|aacne|amic, Phospholipids sii|emo, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols emo, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Citric Acid buff, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol vc, Phenoxyethanol pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin , Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenylpropanol perf|solv, Chlorphenesin pres|amic, Carbomer vc 0 1, Glyceryl Caprylate emo|emu, Ethylhexylglycerin pres
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of the Layers Probiotic Serum:

Water, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Stearyl Heptanoate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Orobanche Rapum Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maltodextrin, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Tocopherol, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Fragrance.

PRODUCT REVIEW: PEACE OUT RETINOL EYE STICK - BEST RETINOL EYE CREAM, BEST EYE CREAM WITH RETINOL

PRODUCT REVIEW: PEACE OUT RETINOL EYE STICK - BEST RETINOL EYE CREAM, BEST EYE CREAM WITH RETINOL

PRODUCT REVIEW: SUNDAY RILEY GOOD GENES ALL-IN-ONE LACTIC ACID TREATMENT  – BEST LACTIC ACID SERUM, BEST EXFOLIATING SERUM WITH LACTIC ACID

PRODUCT REVIEW: SUNDAY RILEY GOOD GENES ALL-IN-ONE LACTIC ACID TREATMENT – BEST LACTIC ACID SERUM, BEST EXFOLIATING SERUM WITH LACTIC ACID