NEW HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS I LOVE FROM FARMACY BEAUTY, HERBIVORE, GLOSSIER AND MORE - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS, BEST HYDRATING SERUMS FOR FACE
It was a relatively chill week. I voted in the NYC mayoral primary, enjoyed a few dinners (and lunches!) out in the City with friends, caught a fun movie (Disney’s Cruella!) and focused a lot on my work. One project, in particular, is a career milestone and I can’t want to share it.
Riding a raw, creative burst of energy, I’m also working on an exciting, new collab with Antonio Jefferson Studio for the end of the month.
If you didn’t catch our project from two weeks ago, you can still explore it in my blog article titled, Collab with Antonio Jefferson Studio: New Vitamin C Serums I’m Crushing on from Wander Beauty, Glossier, Kat Burki and More — which you can see here.
For our upcoming collab, I’m pulling together a few of my favorite products from a handful of my all-time fave brands and featuring Skincarma Summer Skincare at Antonio’s sample sale at his studio. Among the ten or so products, I’ll be featuring the Jaxon Lane Bro Mask hydrogel mask and BeautyStat’s Universal C Skin Refiner — one of the best Vitamin C serums for face that I’ve come across.
It’s gonna be lit. Stay tuned!
Oh, I got my nails done again! It’s funny to hear myself say that. And I’d really just prefer to do them solo at home on my own. But it’s such a nightmare. I’m a literal buffoon when it comes to doing anything but type with my left hand — and even that is only possible when typing with my right hand. Why is that the case? Painting the nails on my right hand whilst holding the brush with my left hand is complete idiocy.
The whole concept of handedness — the preference for using one hand predominantly — has me wondering WTF it’s all about. So I googled it.
According to Science Direct,
Handedness refers to species-wide preference for right-hand use among humans. There is a history of sociocultural bias against left-handedness. Right-handedness reflects left cerebral hemisphere control of language. Left-handers are not mirror images of right-handers; rather, they display more variable brain asymmetry.
While handedness has a genetic basis, there is no evidence for a gene specifically for left-handedness. Although lateral preferences are found in nonhuman species, they are not as strong or consistent as those found in humans. Modern research suggests that the division of humans into strong- versus mixed-handers may be more meaningful than the traditional left–right classification.
The site Live Science suggests that people who are left-handed are at an historical advantage over the rest of us. “There's a leading theory to explain why left-handers have maintained a constant minority: the fighting hypothesis. ‘The idea is that in hand-to-hand combat, or in combat with weapons, there is an evolutionary advantage to being a minority left-hander,’ Uomini said. ‘If you're left-handed, you have a surprise advantage because most people are used to fighting against right-handers.’ That lefty advantage has been shown in one-on-one sports like fencing, scientists reported in 2010 in the journal Laterality.”
I find myself fighting to maintain control and even a modicum of precision when painting the nails on my right hand. With the precision required to handle that tiny brush, it’s just impossible to do my own nails at home. And I love the absurdity in that! Recognizing and even celebrating absurdity is the luxury of a normal routine, of normalcy in a post-Covid era. And as summer seeps into spring, I’m all about doing as much as I can that makes me feel normal.
And I’m down for a smattering of absurdity. It makes me feel alive and well…
The skincare stuff starts here.
One of the most absurd experiences of every New Yorker is riding the subway train on a hot, humid summer day. It can literally be 90 degrees on the subway platform. I’ve taken the subway in Moscow, Hong Kong and Tokyo and believe that all of those cities have air conditioning in their subway stations. Why wouldn’t they? It’s just common sense. There are probably bathrooms in their stations, too. But New York? Nope. Feeling comfortable or somehow cared for in the New York City subway wouldn’t be very New York now would it?
So, I sweat like a marathon runner on the train. Long ago, I began to carry what old-school New Yorkers refer to as a guinea rag in my backpack. “Guinea” being a derogatory term for an Italian-American, a guinea rag is basically a small, gym towel or kitchen rag a guy uses to soak up the sweat on his head.
On those hot days, and we had a few of them this past week, I feel like I sweat out all my body’s water content in an otherwise innocuous 40-minute train ride from Brooklyn to the Bronx.
But there’s a simple remedy for keeping skin hydrated on a hot summer day: a humectant serum.
And I love a good humectant serum! My most recent piece on humectants was right at the beginning of the year in a blog article titled, My Favorite Humectant Serums from Paula's Choice, The Inkey List, Ghost Democracy and More.
MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST AND MORE - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS
Among my favorites featured were the The Ordinary’s Marine Hyaluronics and the Derma-E Ultra Hydrating Alkaline Gel Booster (it’s a mouthful, but worth the experience!). Notably, the Marine Hyaluronics serum from The Ordinary is one of the first two skincare products I use in my day — only minutes after Orpheus and I waken.
A good humectant serum is essential for maintaining skin health on both a hot summer day and during the harsh cold weeks of winter. Among the most effective hydrators (or re-hydrators!) is a well-formulated Hyaluronic Acid serum.
While Hyaluronic Acid is far and away the most popular and most sought-after of humectants, it is by no means the only one. Humectant ingredients that are equally effective at preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and subsequent dehydration include: Beta Glucan, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica, Polyglutamic Acid, Glycerin, Aloe Vera, Snow Mushroom and even common seaweed, or algae.
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
MY 2021 VITAMIN C PICKS + THE BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS TO BRIGHTEN UP THE COMPLEXION!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
What Is Trans-epidermal Water Loss?
There’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? available here. In the piece, the author defines TEWL as follows:
“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).
While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.
Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”
Maintaining proper hydration levels year-round is essential if skin is going to function at its peak. Healthy functioning skin is better able to defend against external aggressors like pollution, UV, and free radical attacks. And healthy skin is better fortified against aging. So while it may seem slick to say that a humectant serum that helps keep skin hydrated is an effective anti-aging product, it’s not really a stretch at all. It’s simple common sense.
With that, let’s take a look at a few new humectant serums for keeping skin optimally hydrated day after day (and especially the really hot ones!).
Farmacy | Filling Good Hyaluronic Acid Plumping Serum
I’m a long-time fan of Farmacy Beauty, in particular the brand’s iconic Honey Potion Renewing Antioxidant Hydration Mask — one of my favorite hydrating treats throughout the cold winter months. When I’m feeling dry, it’s Honey Potion to the rescue!
A few new Farmacy faves include the Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream and Deep Sweep 2% BHA Pore Cleaning Toner with Moringa + Papaya — one of the best Salicylic Acid toners for clogged pores. A little daily pore maintenance is essential to keeping skin healthy, happy and youthful looking and Deep Sweep is ideal for getting deep into pores and clearing out the build-up that can cause a host of pore problems.
PRODUCT REVIEW: FARMACY DEEP SWEEP 2% BHA PORE CLEANING TONER – BEST SALICYLIC ACID TREATMENT
And, the brand’s new Filling Good Hyaluronic Acid Plumping Serum is quite special, too.
I was super excited and even honored to be among the first to test drive Farmacy Beauty’s Filling Good hydrating serum. It’s one of the best humectant serums I’ve come across. First, Filling Good is a pulpier type of serum, similar in texture to The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5. It’s thick and rich and ever so slightly gooey, but not at all sticky.
Farmacy says they infused their new plumping serum with what the brand calls Full-Spectrum Hyaluronic Acid. By that I assume they mean multi-molecular forms of Hyaluronic Acid that penetrate the skin at varying levels. Nice.
But what I think makes it so unique is the honey blend of Honey Extract, Propolis Extract and Royal Jelly Extract. There are a slew of antioxidant botanical extracts; among the most potent is Turmeric Root Extract — which I love in skincare!
And, there’s a new sexy star ingredient that I know nothing about: Thyme Flower Extract. Farmacy thinks it’s so special (and perhaps potent!) that they needed to encapsulate it.
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Thyme Extract is an “extract derived from the leaf or flower of the thyme plant. It can have potent antioxidant properties. Its fragrant component can also cause skin sensitivity, but thyme extract’s beneficial components can benefit skin. Generally speaking, thyme extract should not be one of the chief antioxidants in skincare products; however, in lower amounts and mixed with other antioxidants, it can be a beneficial addition.”
Farmacy Beauty’s Filling Good hyaluronic acid plumping serum is full of intrigue. With its unique silky texture, delicate honey aroma and multi-molecular forms of Hyaluronic Acid, it’s one of the better humectant serums. It’s clean, natural and effective.
And deliciously hydrating on a hot summer day!
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Farmacy Beauty Filling Good for $44 here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: FARMACY CHEER UP BRIGHTENING VITAMIN C EYE CREAM – THE BEST EYE CREAM WITH VITAMIN C
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
NEW SELFCARE TREATS FROM KAT BURKI + FARMACY BEAUTY!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
Herbivore | Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum
Herbivore is a long-time fave of mine and the brand was among the very first “clean” skincare brands I came across. Hands-down, the Herbivore’s Phoenix Rosehip Anti-Aging Face Oil is one of my cold weather faves. It’s super nourishing and moisturizing — and its star ingredient, Rosehip Oil, is one of the best anti-aging oils in the plethora of non-fragrant plant oils.
And I love the super luxurious, skinlicious Pink Cloud Creamy Jelly Cleanser! Its heavy glass bottle gives it that high-end spa feel. But that doesn’t really count for much. It’s what’s inside that matters. Pink Cloud Jelly Cleanser has a relatively tight ingredient list, four of which are humectants — Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate and Tremella Fuciformis Extract aka Snow Mushroom. More on that in a minute!
PRODUCT REVIEW: HERBIVORE PINK CLOUD JELLY CLEANSER – BEST CLEANSER FOR DEHYDRATED SKIN
So I was excited to try the Herbivore Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum. It’s a slightly milky, silky serum loaded with rehydrating goodness for the skin. Like the brand’s Pink Cloud Jelly Cleanser, the new Cloud Jelly serum is infused with Snow Mushroom — a sexy sounding hydrator believed to be a more effective humectant than Hyaluronic Acid itself.
Psst…if you’re unfamiliar with Snow Mushroom, it’s a delicacy in Chinese cuisine and apparently makes a delicious soup, though I’ve yet to try it.
What Does Snow Mushroom Do for Skin?
I found a really interesting article on The Zoe Report called, Snow Mushroom Skincare Products Could Replace All Your Hyaluronic Acid Serums. From the article:
Mushrooms are having what’s known as A Moment. The antioxidant-filled fungi are suddenly everywhere: Chaga and cordyceps mushrooms have made their way into adaptogenic smoothie supplements, powdered lion’s mane mushrooms are today’s healthiest alternative to coffee, and reishi mushrooms are the star ingredient in skincare products like Youth to the People’s Adaptogenic Moisture Cream.
But the latest ‘shroom on the block, snow mushroom, is arguably the best yet. With its capacity for locking in moisture, snow mushroom in skincare products is about to replace hyaluronic acid as the gold-standard.
But don’t let the hype fool you; this is hardly a “new” skincare ingredient. “Snow mushrooms, technically known as Tremella fuciformis, are quite the buzz lately,” Dr. Aanand Geria, a dermatologist at Geria Dermatology in New Jersey, tells The Zoe Report. “But ironically, they date back thousands of years and are used frequently in Asian skincare products.”
Recently, the ingredient has made its way into the U.S. mainstream — in products like AVYA Skincare Day Moisturizer and Olay Active Botanicals Intensive Night Cream — for its “tremendous hydrating capabilities,” Geria says. And as most beauty enthusiasts know, hydration is key for fighting everything from acne to aging, not to mention for a next-level glow.
In addition to Snow Mushroom, there are several other humectants, including Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, and Rose Flower Water.
But perhaps the star active in the Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum is the vegan collagen at ingredient number seven.
Outside the incestuous world of skincare marketing, vegan collagen is a bit controversial among serious chemists and nutritionists.
Case in point, I was participating in a Clubhouse chat a few weeks ago with three clinical nutritionists and the conversation turned to the absurdity that is vegan collagen.
Their thinking went something like this: since collagen is an animal protein, how can it be vegan? Simply, they were mortified at the very idea of vegan collagen. Their position was that it’s a sales scam made up by skincare marketers to ride the wellness wave and trick consumers into thinking that vegan collagen is a viable substitute for animal collagen and its effects on skin suppleneness and a youthful appearance.
I can’t argue with that. It’s exactly what skincare marketers do. They conjure up all kinds of sexy sounding stories about ingredients to create innovation from nothing. I know because I’ve done that hundreds of times as a beauty copywriter!
Yet, according to WebMD, “Some scientists say that they’re able to genetically modify things like yeast and bacteria to create animal-free “vegan” collagen. Others are working on ways to bio-engineer it. But more research is needed on whether it delivers the same type of results as animal-based collagen products.”
The trio of nutritionists were having none of it!
Beyond its humectant and collagen good-for-skin goodness, Herbivore’s Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum also contains a slew of cool botanical extracts that help nourish the skin and deliver antioxidant protection; most notably, Vitamin C-rich Strawberry Extract.
It’s a light, clean humectant serum and a pleasure to use. Oh yeah…summer here I come!
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Herbivore Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum for $48 here.
BRANDS I LOVE: HERBIVORE BOTANICALS' CLEAN FACIAL SKINCARE - BEST FACIAL OILS, SERUMS AND MORE!
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
HERBIVORE BOTANICALS' CLEAN FACIAL SKINCARE - BEST FACIAL OILS, SERUMS AND MORE!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
Glossier | Super Bounce Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin B5 Serum
One of my favorite brand discoveries of 2021 has been cult favorite Glossier. Until this year, I’d been admiring Glossier from afar and I made it my mission over the last several weeks to really take the plunge. As suspected, I like everything I’ve experienced. In particular, the Glossier Solution Exfoliating Skin Perfector has become one of my favorite exfoliating acid toners. That’s even though it can sometimes be too harsh for my sensitive-ish skin.
And I reviewed the brand’s Super Glow Vitamin C + Magnesium Serum just two weeks ago in my collaboration with Antonio Jefferson Studio. For just $28, Glossier’s Super Glow is a pretty solid Vitamin C option, ideal for sensitive or acne prone skin.
Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
But perhaps the product that’s brought me the most satisfaction is Glossier’s Super Pure Niacinamide + Zinc Serum. In the grand scheme of things Niacinamide, it’s not the most potent, the most effective, or the best Niacinamide serum available.
Super Pure is quite a simple formulation — with an INCI that’s just 10 ingredients deep. But it’s a solid formula, a moderate Niacinamide treatment — especially effective if you’re oily or acne prone. And, like the Glossier Super Glow, it’s just $28.
PRODUCT REVIEW: GLOSSIER SUPER PURE NIACINAMIDE + ZINC SERUM - BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM FOR OILY SKIN
So with my experiences with Super Glow and Super Pure in the proverbial bag, it was time to test drive the Glossier Super Bounce Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin B5 Serum. Also priced at $28, the brand’s Hyaluronic Acid serum is a viable option if you’re in the market for a well-formulated hydrating serum.
With a milky, silky texture reminiscent of Herbivore’s Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum, the Super Bounce HA serum is a relatively simple formula with an INCI that’s just about a dozen ingredients deep.
PRODUCT REVIEW: GLOSSIER INVISIBLE SHIELD DAILY SUNSCREEN+ SPF 35 – BEST CHEMICAL SUNSCREEN FOR FACE
Included in the Super Bounce formula is what Glossier terms a 2% Hyaluronic Acid Complex, compromising three molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid for more even, dispersed hydration throughout the skin’s upper layers.
It’s funny though, I can only find one form of Hyaluronic Acid listed: Sodium Hyaluronate.
In addition, there’s Panthenol, or Vitamin B5 — an effective moisturizer and humectant. It’s an unsexy ingredient as old as time and was popular in the tried-and-true formulas of my earlier years as a cosmetic department manager. I feel like every brand had a panthenol cream in the 70s and 80s. I know Kiehl’s did!
What Is Panthenol and What Is Panthenol in Skincare?
Just because it’s not sexy doesn’t mean it’s not effective — or should be overlooked. Panthenol has a broad range of benefits for the skin. In addition to its moisture retention abilities, it can even help to calm redness and irritation.
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team,
Panthenol (sometimes referred to as pro-vitamin B5) is a popular humectant in personal care products due to its ability to attract and hold moisture. When topically applied, it converts to pantothenic acid, which is a naturally occurring substance within the body.
Studies show that 1% panthenol quickly increase skin’s hydration, while decreasing transepidermal water loss (the amount of water that evaporates through skin). The overall result is an improvement in the way skin feels and looks, including a more supple appearance.
Research also shows promise for panthenol’s ability to reduce sensitivity-induced redness in skin.
Topically applied panthenol in amounts between 1–5% has been reported to aid in healing and barrier repair.
Glossier’s Super Bounce Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin B5 Serum is super refreshing, super hydrating and super lightweight — ideal for humid summer weather. If your skin is combination, oily or very oily, Super Bounce makes a perfectly legitimate moisturizer, too.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Glossier Super Bounce Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin B5 Serum for $38 here.
That’s it, guys! With summer right around the corner, I hope you’ll get your hands on a solid humectant serum to replace the water you’ll be sweating through your pores. And try to get your hands on a guinea rag, too. It comes in handy in the heat.
See you next week!
Carmine @skincarma
The Best Sunscreens for Face
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GHOST DEMOCRACY AND MORE
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
The Ingredient List of the Farmacy Beauty Filling Good:
Water/Aqua/Eau, Isoamyl Laurate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Isopentyldiol, Inositol, Glycerin, Inulin, Arginine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Extract, Honey Extract, Propolis Extract, Royal Jelly Extract, Sh-Polypeptide-123, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Diisostearyl Malate, Maltooligosyl Glucoside, Propanediol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Glycogen, Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Phytate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Cellulose, Fructose, Glucose, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Flower/Leaf Extract, Ormenis Multicaulis Oil, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Flavor/Aroma, Arachidyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract, Behenyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Arachidyl Glucoside, Cellulose Gum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Limonene, Linalool, Xanthan Gum.
The Ingredient List of the Herbivore Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum:
so|h, Glycerin 
sii|h 0 0, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch Hydroxyethyl Ether h|vc, Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract aox|h, Vegetable Collagen h, Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract abrasive/scrub|h, Hibiscus Sabdariffa (Hibiscus) Flower Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate amic|pres, Microcrystalline Cellulose vc, Sodium Phytate chel, Cellulose Gum vc 0 0, Gluconolactone exf|chel, Glyceryl Caprylate emo|emu, Arginine sii, Caprylhydroxamic Acid chel, Eclipta Prostrata (False Daisy) Extract, Melia Azadirachta (Neem) Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed Oil emoThe Ingredient List of the Glossier Super Bounce Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin B5 Serum:
, Ethylhexyl Palmitate emo|perf 0 2-4, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Propanediol solv|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Panthenol so|h 0 0, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate emo|emu, Hexylene Glycol solv|emu|perf|surf 0-1 0-2, Xanthan Gum vc, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer vc, Disodium EDTA chel|vc, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Chlorphenesin pres|amic, Sodium Hydroxide buff
