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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

EXCLUSIVE SKINCARMA GIVEAWAY! THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY
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I’m a long-time fan of Deciem’s The Ordinary. The democratically priced skincare brand for everyone literally revolutionized skin care.

The Ordinary was one of the first brands that offered a broad range of single-note products — that is, products focused on one primary active ingredient. In doing so, they met the curiosity of consumers to learn about ingredients and how they benefit their skin.

The Ordinary empowers us to weed through the chaos and confusion created by big beauty marketers and truly focus on skin’s unique needs. And to me, The Ordinary is about skin health, first and foremost. During my career in beauty, I have never once participated in a conversation about skin health. That’s just not how big beauty marketing has traditionally worked.

By focusing on specific ingredients like Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide and Vitamin C — and offering them in affordable, well-formulated products — The Ordinary makes it possible for just about everyone to be able to consistently and effectively maintain the health of their skin.

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WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


I first began my not-so-ordinary journey with the brand about four years ago, just as The Ordinary was bursting onto the skincare scene. Early favorites were the Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% serum, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder.

In fact, that entirely basic pure Vitamin C powder was the first-ever Skincarma Product of the Year, in 2018!

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The Ordinary’s five-dollar 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder is a prime example of how Deciem empowers skincare novices and fanatics alike to understand how ingredients work — and just how much we’ve all been hoodwinked by big beauty into paying way more for products than they’re actually worth.

A whole helluva a lot more! It is an industry secret that the Estee Lauder Companies, owner of the ultra-luxury, overpriced skincare brand La Mer, pays an outrageous one dollar for a one-ounce jar of its iconic Crème de la Mer moisturizer. Not so secret is the product’s $195 price tag! What is that, like a 100 gazillion percent mark-up? It’s quite likely the most extreme in the entire industry.

Through The Ordinary, Deciem brings it all back down to Earth. The nonsensical fantasy is exposed for exactly that. Good skin care doesn’t need to be out of reach — nor should it be. The jig is up on a jar of La Mer!

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Recently, the brand introduced its complete collection of skin-health basics, The Balance Set. It’s the perfect assortment of four daily skincare essentials for promoting and maintaining optimal skin health — and all for $29.

What’s in The Ordinary’s “The Balance Set”?

Well, The Balance Set includes two of my all-time faves from The Ordinary — the pore-clearing Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the ooey-gooey skin-licious Squalane Cleanser, one of the best cleansers for dry skin. Come to think of it, it’s a perfectly legitimate cleanser for all skin types, including oily skin, combo skin and sensitive skin. Rounding out the collection are the super-messy-but-worth-it Salicylic Acid 2% Masque and The Ordinary’s only conventional cream moisturizer, Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA.

The Balance Set is the perfect starter kit for those wanting to discover what The Ordinary is all about. And, it’s perfect, too, for travel or for trying something new at an even more affordable price.

Let’s take a look at each of The Balance Set products in detail…


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The Ordinary | Squalane Cleanser

I can’t say enough about The Ordinary’s skin-licious Squalane Cleanser — the one and only face wash that the brand offers. Not only is it dirt cheap (no pun intended!), but it’s a phenomenal cleanser that gets the job done.

Geez, where do I start?

Well, it’s just $7.90 for a 1.7 oz. / 50ml tube. One-point-seven ounces is relatively small for a facial cleanser and Deciem took some slack over it when it launched from die-hard fans of The Ordinary.

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Funny, I found that my first tube of it lasted me only about three weeks. Of course I was so into it I used it twice a day and used it up pretty damn fast.

I’d been using the cleansing oil-cleansing balm hybrid since the day it launched about 18 months ago and had gone through maybe a dozen tubes of Squalane Cleanser before Deciem tripled the size in a new supersized offering. Even with the jumbo tube, they managed to keep the cost below $20!

As part of The Balance Set, the Squalane Cleanser is even more affordable — and one of the best face cleansers for the money (or any money for that matter!).

The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser is aptly named because its star, first ingredient is quite simply Squalane — the super replenishing and emollient non-fragrant plant oil found in olives. Squalane also happens to be found in human skin, meaning it’s bio-compatible — the skin already recognizes it. And skin loves ingredients it already knows!


What is Squalane?

There’s an excellent article crafted by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, What is Squalane Oil and How Does it Benefit Skin? The piece delves into the what makes squalane unique and why it’s so uniquely beneficial to the skin.

What is Squalane Oil?

Squalane oil is an emollient, a type of ingredient that works very much like skin’s own oil (sebum) to prevent moisture loss. Chemically, it’s a hydrocarbon, a group of ingredients made of only hydrogen and carbon. Common skin-friendly hydrocarbons for skin include petrolatum and mineral oil; squalane is the primary one from the plant world, so it’s a good alternative if you want to avoid petrochemicals.

A unique aspect of squalane is that it’s a modified form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum (1, 2). This fact makes squalane an ingredient skin instantly recognizes and knows how to use, but there’s more to the story than simply being an emollient.

Some people wonder if squalane is a vegan ingredient; traditionally, the squalene from which it’s created was derived from shark liver oil. Today, the majority of skin care brands using squalane are choosing a plant-derived, sustainable source. It occurs naturally in olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils (1, 3). Paula’s Choice uses olive-derived vegan squalane. It can also be produced via biotechnology from the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisae, where it’s often referred to as sugar derived.


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Deciem says that, “the formula incorporates Squalane, alongside other lipophilic esters that are gentle, moisturizing, efficient in dissolving makeup and facial impurities and increasing the spreadability of the product.” I couldn’t have described it any better.

The Squalane Cleanser formula functions much like a cleansing balm or cleansing oil. You need to massage a small amount onto dry skin for a truly ritualistic cleansing experience. Its thick, rich texture emulsifies with warm water to remove grime, sunscreen and makeup, if worn. It feels so effective that I often don’t bother to double cleanse after it, feeling that it’s done the job perfectly well. It’s simply a no-brainer for the price.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser for just $7.90 here. Purchase The Ordinary’s The Balance Set for $29 here.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

A COMPLETE $100 SKINCARE ROUTINE WITH THE INKEY LIST, THE ORDINARY, BENTON & MORE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE



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The Ordinary | Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

While I’m a fan The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, admittedly it’s not my go-to Niacinamide serum. That distinction always has, and always will, belong to the OG Niacinamide serum – the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster serum.

Why? Because it’s much, much more than a Niacinamide treatment. It’s a perfectly well-rounded anti-aging product with antioxidant Vitamin C, humectant Sodium Hyaluronate and nourishing phospholipids. IMO the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster the best anti-aging serum ever!

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That’s not to say that The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% isn’t a solid, pro-skin health treatment — because it certainly is. It’s among the best face serums with Niacinamide.

As with most of The Ordinary’s products, it’s a basic, daily treatment. Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is an effective Niacinamide serum with added zinc that effectively flushes out pores, brightens the complexion, and delivers antioxidant protection to the skin.

Perhaps what’s most unique about The Ordinary’s version is the inclusion of one percent Zinc PCA. Zinc is believed to have a potential benefit for acne-prone skin, though the science is unsettled. Whether or not zinc in any form can help relieve blemish prone, Zinc PCA does have proven benefits for the overall health of the skin.

In fact, the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team rate it among the best ingredients for the skin. They describe Zinc PCA as “a synthetic skin-conditioning ingredient derived from zinc. Research has shown it has anti-aging benefits due to its ability to thwart destructive enzymes in skin that can damage its surface and lead to an aged, wrinkled appearance.”

In terms of zinc’s effect on blemishes, there’s an insightful article from the team titled, Does Zinc Help With Acne? — which you can read here.

Whether or not zinc has a direct benefit for acne-prone skin, the high level of Niacinamide in The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% certainly does. One of the most versatile and broadly pro-skin health actives, Niacinamide is highly effective at keeping pores clear. And clear pores don’t clog — a leading cause of acne.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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What is Niacinamide good for?

Every time I talk about Niacinamide, I like to stress the multiple qualities of Niacinamide — and the remarkable benefits that Vitamin B3 can have for the skin. It’s the single active I use both AM and PM. Of course, I turn to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team:

“Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid, niacinamide is a very effective skin-restoring ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging and blemish-prone skin. Among these benefits is the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and a weakened skin surface.

Niacinamide can also mitigate and to some extent help visibly repair damage from UV light and offset other sources of environmental attack, including the negative impact of various types of airborne pollutants. Unlike many beneficial ingredients, niacinamide is stable in the presence of heat and light.”


The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is a relatively simple, effective treatment that seriously amps up any skincare routine with regular, daily (even twice daily use!).

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% for just $5.90 here. Purchase The Ordinary’s The Balance Set for $29 here.


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The

Skincarma Giveaway!

Enter for a chance to win The Ordinary’s The Balance Set, a collection of some of my favorite producst from The Ordinary — including the Squalane Cleanser, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Salicylic Acid 2% Masque and Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA. ($29 value)

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 01/24/2021.


The Ordinary | Salicylic Acid 2% Masque

Look, sometimes masking can be messy. You know the drill: you get mask in your hair, you get it stuck in your eyebrows, some of it ends up on the floor — which is always the case with that ridiculous Dr. Jart’s Shake & Shot rubber mask. More of it ends up on the bathroom floor than on your face!

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If you think that mask is messy, The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Masque is next-level messy. But unlike Shake & Shot, which is more skin gimmick than skin care, the Salicylic Acid 2% Masque has legit benefits for skin.

The Ordinary says that the Salicylic Acid 2% Masque “is formulated to target lackluster tone and textural irregularities. The formula, infused with charcoal and clays, aims to enhance the appearance of smoothness and clarity, leaving the skin feeling refreshed.” In other words, it helps clear skin!

It’s a relatively simple, yet effective formula for all skin types, but particularly acne-prone skins that can most benefit from the power of Salicylic Acid.


What is Salicylic Acid?

According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Salicylic Acid is among the best ingredients for promoting skin health:

“Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, which is a desmolytic ingredient. That means it targets certain protein bonds in skin, known as desmosomes, that keep dead cells clinging to skin instead of sloughing off. Skin’s natural shedding process can become faulty due to age, sun damage, and problems like acne and excess oil. Exfoliating helps restore this natural ability. 

“Salicylic acid is unique because it not only loosens the bonds between dead skin on the surface but also deep in the pore lining, where spent cells mix with oil and debris, becoming trapped below the surface. Left unchecked, all this buildup leads to dull, rough skin and clogged pores, setting the stage for blackheads and bumps.

“Compared to water-soluble alpha hydroxy acids, this type of acid is oil soluble, so it’s able to get through the oil, thinning it so it can flow freely to skin’s surface where your cleanser washes it away. Its oil-soluble nature makes it preferred for oily, breakout-prone skin, and it’s why medicated salicylic acid products for acne work so well; however, all skin types can benefit from this ingredient.”


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The first four ingredients in The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Masque are water, Kaolin, Squalane and Glycerin. That 2% Salicylic Acid comes in somewhere around sixth on the INCI — with charcoal powder a few ingredients later. I have no idea what level of charcoal powder is effective for skin — but it sure is messy!

Apparently, two percent charcoal powder is enough to power a bathroom disaster, creating grayish beads of water that splatter all over the bathroom sink, walls, floor and god-only-knows where else. I love this little messy mask on #selfcaresunday almost as much as I love tacos on Taco Tuesday.

You can catch the #messyaf Salicylic Acid 2% Masque in action on my IGTV here.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque for just $12 here. Purchase The Ordinary’s The Balance Set for $29 here.

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The

Skincarma

Giveaway!

Enter for a chance to win The Ordinary’s The Balance Set, a collection of some of my favorite producst from The Ordinary — including the Squalane Cleanser, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Salicylic Acid 2% Masque and Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA. ($29 value)

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 01/24/2021.


The Ordinary | Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

It’s kinda funny, but I’ve never really gotten into The Ordinary’s Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA — not at the level that I appreciate the brand’s more sophisticated moisturizing, skin-replenishing facial oils.

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The Ordinary’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane is one of my favorite facial oils for dry skin. The 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane is what’s termed a dry oil, meaning it’s not wet and heavy on the skin, doesn’t leave a greasy feel – and is absorbed almost immediately. It’s such a treat!

In classic Ordinary fashion, 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane literally contains just a single ingredient — C13-16 Isoparaffin, or Hemi-Squalane. Doesn’t that sound phenomenally boring? But I love it!

And that’s my point about Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA: it’s kinda boring. Interestingly, it’s not a single-note product. It’s a straight-up basic moisturizer. But a really well-formulated one, and a treasure trove of skin-nourishing actives, including a slew of amino acids and fatty acids, natural components of skin’s own natural moisturizing factors or NMF’s.

Components of the skin’s upper layers like amino acids, ceramides, phospholipids and hyaluronic acid combine to protect the skin barrier and help skin to retain moisture and hydration. Basic skin stuff.

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What are natural moisturizing factors (NMF’s)?

According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, “natural moisturizing factors” are among the best ingredients for promoting skin health. NMF’s are described as,

Substances within skin’s uppermost layers that help keep it smooth, hydrated and healthy-looking. Topical application helps reinforce skin’s surface so skin takes on a younger, replenished appearance.

NMFs make up an expansive group of ingredients that include amino acids, lactic acid, sodium PCA, various sugars and minerals, and peptides. Together with the naturally-occurring lipids in skin (examples would be ceramides, cholesterol, and glycosaminoglycans), NMF’s work to keep skin’s surface intact and supple.

It is worth noting that routine exposure to sensitizing ingredients like drying cleanising agents and denatured alcohol cause serious depletion of skin’s natural moisturizing factors, leading to visibly dry, tight-feeling, flaky skin.


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The Ordinary’s Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA contains everything skin needs from an everyday moisturizer. In addition to multiple aminos, there are humectants Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate as well Linoleic Acid and Oleic Acid — two superb sources of fatty acids.

There’s soothing Allantoin, Urea, Lecithin and Vitamin E, too, making for a light textured, nourishing cream that feels great on the skin.

Think of Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA as that quiet, book smart kid in science class. Keeps his head down, does the work and takes home solid A’s!

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA for just $5.80 here. Purchase The Ordinary’s The Balance Set for $29 here.


That’s it, guys! I hope you’ll take advantage of this great opportunity to try some of my favorite products from The Ordinary. You can’t do better for your skin health!

💟 SKINCARMA



WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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The

Skincarma

Giveaway!

Enter for a chance to win The Ordinary’s The Balance Set, a collection of some of my favorite producst from The Ordinary — including the Squalane Cleanser, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Salicylic Acid 2% Masque and Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA. ($29 value)

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 01/24/2021.


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The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%:

Aqua (Water) solv, Niacinamide cci|sb|aacne|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Zinc Pca aacne|h, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum h|vc, Xanthan Gum vc|emu|surf, Isoceteth-20 emu|surf, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amic
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA:

Aqua (Water) solv, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Cetyl Alcohol emo|emu|vc|surf 2 2, Propanediol solv|h, Stearyl Alcohol emo|vc|emu|surf 2 2, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Arginine sii, Aspartic Acid sii, Glycine sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Valine sii, Isoleucine sii, Proline sii, Threonine sii, Histidine sii|h, Phenylalanine sii, Glucose h, Maltose h, Fructose h, Trehalose h, Sodium PCA sii|h 0 0, PCA sii|h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Urea sii|h, Allantoin so 0 0, Linoleic Acid sii|emo|surf, Oleic Acid emo|emu, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Palmitic Acid sii|emo|emu 0 2, Stearic Acid emo|vc 0 2-3, Lecithin emo|emu, Triolein vc, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Carbomer vc 0 1, Isoceteth-20 emu|surf, Polysorbate 60 emu|surf, Sodium Chloride vc, Citric Acid buff, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Triethanolamine buff 0 2, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin. pres|amic
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque:

Aqua (Water) solv, Kaolin col|abrasive/scrub 0 0, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Silica Cetyl Silylate vc, Salicylic Acid exf|aacne|so|pres, Sodium Polyacrylate vc|emo, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Charcoal Powder abrasive/scrub, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol so|cci|perf, Sclerotium Gum vc, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum vc|emu|surf, Phytic Acid chel, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Chlorphenesin pres|amic, Phenoxyethanol pres
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

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