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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA'S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 6% MANDELIC ACID + 2% LACTIC ACID LIQUID EXFOLIANT - Is Mandelic Acid good for sensitive skin? Which is better Salicylic Acid or Mandelic Acid?

PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA'S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 6% MANDELIC ACID + 2% LACTIC ACID LIQUID EXFOLIANT - Is Mandelic Acid good for sensitive skin? Which is better Salicylic Acid or Mandelic Acid?

PAULA'S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 6% MANDELIC ACID + 2% LACTIC ACID LIQUID EXFOLIANT

I’m a relatively cautious exfoliator. I love a bright, clear complexion as much as anyone, but I try not to overdo it. I said try. I don’t always succeed.

When it comes to regular use of an AHA exfoliating treatment, it’s been trial by fire – literally. That’s especially true for really strong exfoliating treatments with Glycolic Acid.

You know the drill. When your skin is dull AF, there’s no better way to light up your complexion more quickly than a potent Glycolic Acid toner, serum or mask.

It wasn’t that long ago that I first discovered The Ordinary’s iconic AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution. It’s very likely the best-selling exfoliating serum on the market today and it scares the hell out of me. In fact, it scares me so much that I’ve never reviewed it on the blog.

Five percent less scary (haha!) is the Paula’s Choice 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel – which I have reviewed on the blog. Like The Ordinary’s fire-in-a-bottle, it’s a super effective AHA treatment. And of course, the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant with Salicylic Acid is one of my daily go-to’s. Along with the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster, the two are at the heart of my daily pore maintenance regimen.

So I’m excited to be among the first to try the new Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant. Powered by the mildest of the AHAs, Mandelic Acid, I’ve found it to be the ideal exfoliating toner for those who don’t want anything too aggressive – like me.

More on this innovative new formula from Paula’s Choice below…

BEST PAULA’S CHOICE PRODUCTS

The funny thing about using an AHA exfoliating toner, serum or other treatment is that it’s the one product you least need in your routine. I know a lot of people think a hydrating toner is skippable, but it’s actually the exfoliating treatment that’s unnecessary.

Sure, during the cold, low-humid weeks of winter skin needs help with hydration – and a toner is one of the best ways to prevent dehydration and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). On the other hand, exfoliation is one of the things that skin does quite efficiently on its own – every day of the year.

Your skin is exfoliating itself as you’re reading this!

The process is known as “desquamation.” It’s a natural function of the skin in which the outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum, sheds dead skin cells as they rise to the surface. The innate process is a key component of your skin’s renewal cycle, where old skin cells are continually replaced by new ones. This cycle of perpetual cell renewal generally takes place over 28 days, meaning it takes about a month for skin cells to rise to the surface where they can either shed naturally or be sloughed off by you with an exfoliant.

So do you need to exfoliate your face? Sure! It’s smart to exfoliate about once a week with an AHA treatment formulated with a high concentration of acids. If your skin can tolerate Glycolic Acid, go for it. Even lighter exfoliation daily is beneficial to skin health – as with a 2% Salicylic Acid toner like the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant.

But the key is not to overdo it…

PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA'S CHOICE 25% VITAMIN C + GLUTATHIONE CLINICAL SERUM


Before I get into my detailed Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant product review just below, I wanted to explore some of the most frequently asked questions about Mandelic Acid – the gentlest of the AHAs and the core technology behind the new Paula's Choice formula...


1. What does Mandelic Acid do to your skin?

Similar to other alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) – including Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Malic Acid – Mandelic Acid is an efficient exfoliating acid that helps to remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. By sloughing away dead cells, your complexion appears brighter, smoother and more even. Importantly, removing dead skin cells also helps prevent them from embedding in and clogging your pores, which can lead to acne breakouts, irritation and sensitivity.

Extracted from bitter almonds, Mandelic Acid has a larger molecular size than Glycolic or Lactic Acids, which allows for a more gentle exfoliation, more shallow penetration through the skin barrier and, importantly, less irritation.

In addition to its exfoliating properties, Mandelic Acid also possesses antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties beneficial to sensitive skin and acne-prone skin.

Mandelic Acid is particularly effective for addressing acne concerns and the multiple signs of skin aging. It can even help unify and even out skin tone and diminish the appearance of dark spots, though not as efficiently or effectively as a more potent AHA like Glycolic Acid.

Explore my picks of the best Paula’s Choice products on the blog here.

Sources: Healthline: Benefits and Uses of Mandelic Acid; WebMD: Are There Health Benefits to Mandelic Acid?

2. Is Mandelic Acid good for sensitive skin?

Yes, Mandelic Acid is actually the best AHA for sensitive skin. Due to its larger molecular weight, Mandelic Acid does not penetrate the skin barrier as deeply as Glycolic Acid – the most potent AHA with the smallest molecular weight. Because of this, it is less irritating to the skin and thus better tolerated by sensitives skin types.

But just because Mandelic Acid is the best alpha hydroxy acid for sensitive skin doesn’t mean that it’s right for your skin. It’s still an acid! And your skin may not tolerate a strong AHA exfoliating treatment. The best you can do is test it out. Patch test the product on your wrist or the inside of your arm (anywhere but your face!) before incorporating it into your skincare routine. And, start with a lower concentration of the acid, or use the product less frequently, to minimize the risk of irritation or sensitization.

If Mandelic Acid is too strong for your skin, consider an exfoliating toner or serum with poly hydroxy acid. PHAs are generally better tolerated than AHAs and offer a similar exfoliating and brightening benefit.

Explore my picks of the best Paula’s Choice products on the blog here.

Sources: Paula’s Choice: Mandelic Acid; Byrdie: Meet Mandelic Acid, an AHA Suited for Sensitive Skin

3. How often to use Mandelic Acid for sensitive skin?

How often you use a serum, mask or toner with Mandelic Acid depends on the formula potency, your own skin concerns, and your level of sensitivity.

If you have sensitive skin, incorporating Mandelic Acid into your skincare routine can be an effective way to exfoliate your skin and improve its tone and texture without the risk of irritation. Due to its larger molecular size compared to other AHAs, Mandelic Acid is more tolerated by sensitive skin types.

Follow the instructions on your Mandelic Acid treatment closely; but even then, it’s a good idea to patch test the product on your wrist or the inside of your arm (anywhere but your face!) before incorporating it into your skincare routine. And, start with a lower concentration, or use the product less frequently, to minimize your risk of irritation.

Remember, the risk of sensitization always exists when using a potent AHA exfoliating toner. It’s often not necessary to use an exfoliating toner more than a couple of times a week.

Explore my picks of the best Paula’s Choice products on the blog here.

Sources: Health: What Is Mandelic Acid?; Women’s Health: Here’s Why Mandelic Acid Is the Go-To Exfoliating Acid for Sensitive Skin

4. Which is better Salicylic Acid or Mandelic Acid?

The two acids, Salicylic Acid and Mandelic Acid, are not mutually exclusive. While both possess exfoliating properties with benefits ideal for oily and acne-prone skin, they do have additional benefits that are unique to each. A well-rounded skincare routine can include separate products formulated with each acid.

Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its ability to penetrate deep into pores where it is effective at breaking down and dissolving sebum, or oil. Hardened sebum within your pores is like glue, trapping dirt and oil – a leading cause of acne breakouts, irritation and sensitivity. This is the main reason that Salicylic Acid is often included in the broad range of cleansers, face serums, moisturizers and spot treatments for acne. Its anti-inflammatory properties can also help calm redness and soothe acne-induced inflammation.

On the other hand, Mandelic Acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), is a gentler option that delivers effective exfoliation of dead surface skin cells – the very ones that become embedded in your pores if you don’t clear them out with a Salicylic Acid toner or a Niacinamide serum. In my experience, a Mandelic Acid treatment will brighten your complexion and smooth out your skin texture more quickly and effectively than a BHA toner.

With antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, Mandelic Acid is a great option for sensitive skin. Due to its larger molecular weight, it does not penetrate the skin barrier as deeply as Glycolic Acid, which is infamous for its tendency to sensitize skin and cause extreme irritation.

Explore my picks of the best Paula’s Choice products on the blog here.

Sources: Naturium: Mandelic Acid vs Salicylic Acid; National Library of Medicine, PubMed Central: Comparative study of efficacy and safety of 45% mandelic acid versus 30% salicylic acid peels in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris


5. Product Review

Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant Review

As I’ve shared 87 million times over the past 7 years, my go-to daily exfoliant is the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. Along with the brand’s 10% Niacinamide Booster, the two form the core of my daily pore maintenance routine.

If you aren’t focused on keeping your pores clear, as much as you are in protecting your skin from photodamage with a daily sunscreen, then you aren’t optimizing your skin health. Clogged pores are often the root cause of both acne breakouts and irritation.

Yes, a good cleanser can clean your pores of dirt and oil, but even the best cleanser for oily skin won’t keep your pores clear of dead surface skin cells. It’s simply not enough to wash your face and, well, call it a day.

To properly clear out your pores you need Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide – twice a day, every day!

PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA LIQUID EXFOLIANT

A BHA treatment can work wonders for your pore health; but for deeper, broader and more effective exfoliation you need an AHA toner. And a well-formulated exfoliating toner formulated with alpha hydroxy acids like Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Mandelic Acid does more than just clear out your pores.

I’m not a chemist so I don’t know what level of skin exfoliation Mandelic Acid provides in comparison to Salicylic Acid. But I’m not ready or willing to give up my 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. It’s simply too important to my skin health.

That’s where the new Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant comes into play. I’ve made it a part of my regular skincare routine over the past several weeks – inserting it into my PM routine twice a week in place of the BHA toner.

Twice weekly exfoliation seems like the right cadence to me. (I’ve tried it on consecutive days and have seen no change in my skin’s reactivity.) While I wouldn’t recommend using the Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant every day, it’s gentle enough on skin if you wanted to. In fact, the brand recommends to “apply once or twice daily after cleansing and toning.” That’s a lot!



But here’s why I appreciate the new Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant as much as I do: I’m not a big fan of Glycolic Acid. I’m mentally scarred from my initial experiments with it years ago and have never gotten over it.

I know I’m not alone. Glycolic Acid – especially when formulated at a low, optimum pH – is a serious exfoliant. But just because it’s the strongest AHA doesn’t mean it’s always the best. Not everyone’s skin can tolerate intense exfoliation. And as I’ve pointed out, skin really doesn’t need it. So with the new 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant you get solid exfoliation with less risk of sensitization.

If you’re familiar with the Paula’s Choice classic 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, know that the new toner is even more lightweight and really has the texture of water. Use it with a cotton pad or, as I do, by pouring some into your palms and patting it into your skin. Cotton just wastes product – and gets caught in my beard hair.

If you’re looking for more gentle, but effective exfoliation (and are not a fan of Glycolic Acid!), the new Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant is spot on.


6. Pros & Cons

What I like about it: The Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant is a gentle, reliable exfoliating treatment that doesn’t scare me like a Glycolic Acid toner would. I love that it gives me just the right level of weekly exfoliating without the risk of overdoing it and leaves me skin smoother and brighter. It’s also super lightweight with the texture of water, making it easy to apply – even without cotton.

What I don’t like about it: I like everything about it.

Who it’s for: All skin types, even sensitive.

SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant for $37 here.



THIS PAULA’S CHOICE SUNSCREEN IS EVERYTHING!



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