PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA'S CHOICE YOUTH-EXTENDING DAILY HYDRATING FLUID SPF 50 - How do I choose between mineral and chemical sunscreen? What's the best sunscreen for oily skin?
PAULA'S CHOICE RESIST YOUTH-EXTENDING DAILY HYDRATING FLUID SPF 50
My summer of sunscreens continues! Over the past several weeks I’ve discovered some of my favorite facial sunscreen in my 35-year career in beauty. Among them are many of the best sunscreens for oily skin.
Why oily skin? Well, because we’re all oily in summer. Me included! I’m big on the concept of “seasonal skincare” – I go heavy in winter, light in summer. And when friends, family and followers ask me questions like What’s the best summer sunscreen? and What’s the best sunscreen for oily skin?, my responses to both are the same.
In the summer, your skin needs less oil. That’s true whether you’re an oily skin type or a dry skin type – or somewhere in between – the rest of the year. And at least for me, I don’t want anything on my skin that’s too heavy and uncomfortable – especially when I’m standing on the steaming hot subway platform waiting for a delayed train! Heavier skincare products like a rich face cream for dry skin just don’t absorb into your skin in hot weather. That’s a good indication that your skin doesn’t need (or want!) it.
So right now, light, milky sunscreen fluids are preferable – and even pleasurable. Indeed, I’ve found great pleasure in some of the best sunscreen fluids on the market this summer! Among my top hot weather picks are the Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 and CeraVe’s new Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen SPF 30 for Face and Body – one of the best sunscreens for sensitive skin. Both are reviewed on the blog and can be found in my collection of the best sunscreens for face here.
But even those two superb sunscreen fluids can be outdone. There’s one sunscreen for oily skin that stands out as superior to me this summer. It’s the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen.
THE BEST PAULA’S CHOICE PRODUCTS
And while the Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 and CeraVe Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen SPF 30 are more affordable options at $14 and $18 respectively, the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen is not prohibitively expensive. It goes for $37 on the Paula’s Choice website but is often available for about $29.
It seems that milky, featherlight fluid sunscreens are all the rage this year. And I don’t mind it. There hasn’t been much innovation in facial sunscreens in the US outside of textures so my expectations are relatively low.
In fact, there’s been no real US sunscreen innovation until the recent launch of the Pavise Dynamic Age Defense SPF 30 Sunscreen. Developed by MIT scientists, the new Pavise Dynamic Age Defense SPF 30 is the first-ever 100% mineral sunscreen that’s transparent on all skin tones – including the most melanin-rich skin of color.
I know you’re likely thinking, I’ve used mineral facial sunscreens that blend into my skin okay. Yes, I have as well. But here’s the cold hard truth. In order for a mineral sunscreen to blend into skin with no white cast, particularly on darker skin tones, it needs chemical fillers. And the Pavise formula is a 100% true mineral sunscreen, made with no chemical fillers. That’s why it’s real innovation – and very well may be the most innovative sunscreen in decades. Catch my Pavise Dynamic Age Defense review on the blog here.
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“Clinical signs of aging are essentially influenced by extrinsic factors, especially sun exposure. Indeed UV exposure seems to be responsible for 80% of visible facial aging signs.”
Now I don’t mean to imply that a mineral sunscreen is always superior, or to put down chemical sunscreens. Both types of UV filters are effective at protecting against sun damage and subsequent photoaging. Mineral sunscreens are generally better tolerated by those with sensitive skin.
But there is a significant and important debate going on about whether chemical sunscreen filters penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream. And if they do, what does that even mean for our health more broadly?
But wait. Does chemical sunscreen penetrate skin?
In January 2020, in an article titled, Seven Sunscreen Chemicals Enter Bloodstream After One Use, FDA Says, but Don’t Abandon Sun Protection, CNN reported on a study completed by the Center for Drug Evaluation and Research, a division of the US Food and Drug Administration.
Published in the journal JAMA, “The study discovered four popular chemical sunscreen filters often used in commercial products – avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, and ecamsule – were absorbed from the skin into the bloodstream after a single day of use.”
PRODUCT REVIEW: SKIN PROUD SERIOUS SHADE SUNSCREEN SPF 50
The institution called for further testing by the industry to “determine the safety and effect of systemic exposure of sunscreen ingredients, especially with chronic use. And importantly, implored consumers to continue wearing sunscreen while the testing proceeds.”
It’s a difficult situation to navigate given the damage that unprotected sun exposure causes – including photoaging and skin cancer. A scientific paper published in 2013 by the National Library of Medicine at the NIH clarified the effects of unprotected sun exposure and resultant photoaging on the skin. The study concluded that, “Clinical signs of aging are essentially influenced by extrinsic factors, especially sun exposure. Indeed UV exposure seems to be responsible for 80% of visible facial aging signs.”
Even so, according to the National Cancer Institute at the NIH, only “about 30 percent of women and less than 15 percent of men regularly use sunscreen on both the face and other exposed areas of skin.” That means a whopping 70% of women and 85% of men don’t wear sunscreen every day. Yikes!
As I often say, what’s most important is to find a facial sunscreen you love – one that you enjoy wearing so much that it becomes second nature (and a second skin!). It doesn’t matter if it’s chemical, mineral or a hybrid blend of the two. If you love it, you’re far more likely to use it – and assure that you’re in that exclusive club of men and women who wear sunscreen.
ONE OF MY FAVE NEW SUMMER SUNSCREENS!
Before I get into my detailed product review of the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen below, I wanted to explore some of the most frequently asked questions specific to facial sunscreens and sunscreen for oily skin, in particular...
1. How do I choose between mineral and chemical sunscreen?
Choosing between mineral and chemical sunscreen depends on personal preference, skin type, and your specific needs.
Mineral sunscreens, also known as physical sunscreens, are formulated with the active ingredients zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These mineral UV filters sit on the surface of the skin and reflect or scatter UV rays to prevent skin damage. They provide effective broad-spectrum protection and are generally considered suitable for sensitive skin as they are less likely to cause irritation or allergic reactions. Mineral sunscreens work immediately upon application and are considered safe and effective by the FDA. Their significant drawback is the white cast they leave on the skin, often problematic for darker skin tones.
On the other hand, chemical sunscreens contain organic compounds that absorb UV rays and convert them into heat, which is then released from the skin. These sunscreens often contain active ingredients like avobenzone, octinoxate, or oxybenzone. They are easy to apply and typically have a lighter, more cosmetically elegant texture and very rarely leave a white cast, or film, on the skin. According to the Mayo Clinic, chemical sunscreens take about 20 minutes to become effective after application.
It's important to note that chemical sunscreens may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. Additionally, certain chemical filters, like oxybenzone, have raised concerns about potential environmental impact and hormone disruption. However, more research is needed to fully understand their effects.
Ultimately, the decision between mineral and chemical sunscreen comes down to personal preference, skin sensitivity, and desired formulation. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends choosing a sunscreen with broad-spectrum protection (defense against both UVA and UVB rays) and with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 30 or higher.
Sources: FDA: Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun; Mayo Clinic: Sunscreen: Understand sunscreen options; The Skin Cancer Foundation: All About Sunscreen
2. What's the best sunscreen for oily skin?
Choosing the best sunscreen for oily skin involves considering factors like the formula's texture, ingredients, and potential for clogging pores. Look for sunscreens that are labeled as “oil-free,” “non-comedogenic,” or as having a “matte finish.” These formulations are designed to minimize shine and control excess oil production.
Additionally, consider sunscreens with lightweight, gel, or milky fluid textures that won’t feel heavy or on your skin. According to Byrdie in an article titled, The 11 Best Sunscreens for Oily Skin of 2023, a key recommendation for oily skin is to find a sunscreen with a high SPF in a lightweight, non-greasy formula.
Here are some popular facial sunscreens for oily skin to consider:
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Clear Skin Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 60 - This sunscreen offers broad-spectrum protection, has a matte finish, and is formulated with an oil-absorbing complex to control shine. It is specifically designed for oily and acne-prone skin.
Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen SPF 55 - This popular sunscreen is oil-free, non-comedogenic, and absorbs excess oil with a dry-touch finish. It provides broad-spectrum protection while feeling lightweight on skin.
Cetaphil Pro Oil Absorbing Moisturizer SPF 30 - This sunscreen-moisturizer combo is formulated for acne-prone skin. It is oil-free, lightweight, and designed to control excess oil while providing broad-spectrum protection.
EltaMD UV Clear Facial Sunscreen SPF 46 - This lightweight, oil-free sunscreen is specifically formulated for acne-prone and sensitive skin. It contains niacinamide to help control oil production and reduce redness.
Sources: Byrdie: The 11 Best Sunscreens for Oily Skin of 2023
3. How much SPF is good for oily skin?
Oily skin can be extremely uncomfortable, which is one of the reasons it can be challenging to find a sunscreen you like if you’re oily, very oily, and/or acne-prone. Sunscreens tend to be the most unpleasant skincare product in a routine – no matter your skin type. And, for oily and very oily skins, the problem is compounded by the fact that adding more oil often makes things worse.
But, as with all skin, it is essential to wear enough sunscreen to protect your skin from photodamage and worse. The key is to find a facial sunscreen that works for your skin and that feels comfortable throughout the day – enough so that you enjoy wearing it.
There are numerous oil-free sunscreens for oily skin on the market. Among the most popular are the La Roche-Posay Anthelios Clear Skin Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 60 and EltaMD UV Clear Facial Sunscreen SPF 46.
And, of course, the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen, which I review in detail below, is an excellent option for oily skin. It’s oil-free, mattifying, and has a super lightweight fluid texture that feels like nothing on your skin.
4. Is Paula's Choice sunscreen good?
Yes! In fact, Paula’s Choice consistently ranks among the best skincare brands for everything from basic skincare to targeted facial serums and, yes, facial sunscreen.
Among my favorite Paula’s Choice products are the Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster, the Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant and my favorite skincare product on Earth – the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster. (Psst…I go through two bottles every month!)
The brand offers several excellent sunscreens for face. In my experience, the Paula’s Choice Redness Relief SPF 30 Mineral Moisturizer is one of the best facial sunscreens for sensitive skin. And, the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen which I review just below, is certainly among the best sunscreens for oily skin – and one of my favorite facial sunscreens.
I invite you to explore my top picks of the best Paula’s Choice products here.
5. Product Review
Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating SPF 50 Sunscreen Review
As with everything Paula’s Choice touches, this sunscreen is gold. I know that’s a very loose paraphrasing of the expression, but…
It’s funny that the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen was introduced a while ago and I’m just now getting around to trying it – and I’m hooked. It’s a milky, fluid sunscreen in the same class as the two cult classic J-beauty sunscreen fluids: the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+ and Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk – which I’ve reviewed on the blog here.
But there’s one key difference between this sunscreen and other similar sunscreen fluids. And it’s something that Paula’s Choice brings to every new product: antioxidant defense. There are very few facial sunscreens on the market that deliver the kind of broad environmental protection that high concentrations of antioxidants paired with UV filters can provide.
The Pavise Dynamic Age Defense SPF 30 Sunscreen which I referred to above is one of the best in terms of environmental defense. Its combination of a potent antioxidant cocktail and superior mineral UV filter technology is unrivaled.
Similarly, the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen contains a blend of potent antioxidants – in the form of Green Tea, Black Elderberry, Goji, and Pomegranate Extracts.
Combined with chemical UV filters Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Octisalate, and Octocrylene, the Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid Sunscreen does a great job of delivering both antioxidant and sun protection to defend skin against signs of photoaging.
The concept of photoaging is becoming increasingly popular. But what is photoaging, exactly?
According to the Mayo Clinic, photoaging refers to skin damage caused by prolonged and excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun or artificial UV light sources. It is characterized by various visible signs of aging, including wrinkles, fine lines, uneven pigmentation, sagging skin, and a rough texture.
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UV radiation penetrates the skin and damages the underlying collagen and elastin fibers, which are essential for maintaining the skin’s firmness and elasticity. Additionally, UV radiation triggers the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammation, further contributing to the breakdown of collagen and the formation of wrinkles. Antioxidants help to defend against ROS.
Over time, cumulative sun exposure and inadequate protection against UV rays can accelerate the aging process, leading to premature skin aging, or photoaging. And, as I alluded to earlier, unprotected sun exposure is responsible for at least 80% of the visible signs of skin aging.
What else makes the Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen such an exceptional facial sunscreen? The texture! If you have oily, acne-prone skin – or if you’re oily in summer like me – the product texture is everything.
While the brand doesn’t claim that the formula is oil-free, for all intents and purposes it is. There is Dimethicone in the formula. This form of silicone functions as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent, similar to an oil. However, although Dimethicone has an oily texture, it is not technically classified as an oil. To be clear, there are no plant oils in the formula.
Not only does its fluid texture absorb quickly into the skin, but it has a mattifying quality that helps to control the look of surface oils so you don’t appear (or feel!) greasy.
There’s one other important quality to this Paula’s Choice sunscreen that helps to address the particular needs of an acne-prone skin – and something that people with acne can appreciate. The formula has superb calming abilities to help soothe irritation. Both its high concentration of Green Tea Leaf Extract as well as Oat Bran Extract help to calm redness and other signs of sensitivity.
I don’t know how or why I made it this long without the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen in my life. It’s one of the best anti-aging sunscreens among the more than two dozen that I have in rotation. And, it’s one of the best sunscreens for oily skin and acne-prone skin available today.
6. Pros & Cons
What I like about it: The Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen is one of my favorite sunscreens ever – and my fave discovery of 2023. Its blend of antioxidants and broad-spectrum SPF 50 sun protection deliver a more complete environmental defense against photoaging. The milky fluid texture is everything on a hot summer day!
What I don’t like about it: I love everything about it.
Who it’s for: All skin types, especially oily, very oily and acne-prone skins.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen for $37 here.
The Ingredient List of the Paula’s Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Sunscreen:
Avobenzone 2%, Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 2%, Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Silica, Dimethicone, Tocopherol, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Peucedanum Graveolens (Dill) Extract, Sambucus Nigra (Black Elderberry) Fruit Extract, Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Carbomer, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol.
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