PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA'S CHOICE TRIPLE ACTIVE TOTAL REPAIR SERUM - Can you mix retinol and niacinamide? What's the difference between retinol and retinoid?
PAULA'S CHOICE | TRIPLE ACTIVE TOTAL REPAIR SERUM
Skincare innovation has really entered an exciting new phase! It seems every other day, there’s a new clinically proven face serum for hyperpigmentation, a dermatologist-recommended dark spot treatment with Retinol, or a Niacinamide serum for oily skin, rough skin texture, clogged pores – or just about every daily skin concern.
Product formulators and brand marketers are having a field day with actives like Niacinamide and Retinol. For a long time, Niacinamide has played a central role in my own daily anti-aging skincare routine.
I’ve made no secret of the fact that the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster is my favorite skincare product. And IMO the best anti-aging face serum for dark spots, wrinkles and clogged pores. You name it, the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster can address it. Admittedly, I go through 2 bottles of the stuff a month – and my skin has never been healthier!
Like both The INKEY List and The Ordinary, the Paula’s Choice brand has been an innovation machine over the past serveral months. This year alone has seen the introduction of the Paula’s Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster, the Phytoestrogen Elasticity Renewal Serum and one of my favorite brightening eye creams with Vitamin C – the Paula’s Choice C5 Super Boost Eye Cream.
But it’s the brand’s new Retinol-Niacinamide fusion serum that really has my attention. While I use a clinical strength Retinol serum or face cream daily, I haven’t really used one in the daytime. While it’s not the first-ever Retinol treatment for day, the Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum is the first Retinol day serum I’ve used consistently – and I love it.
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That begs the question: Can I use retinol serum during the day? Most of us have been conditioned to believe Retinol is too aggressive for morning use – with the potential to irritate the skin. In fact, I’d go so far to say that even experienced Retinol users are wary of using it in their morning routines – right before going out into the sun. Scientific experts and dermatologists certainly back that up.
A 2010 review published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology recommends using retinoids at night to avoid potential irritation and photosensitivity. However, some sources suggest that it may be beneficial to use retinol during the day if paired with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect against UV damage, irritation and sensitization.
So if you’re asking yourself should I put retinol in the morning? the answer is: it depends.
And it depends on several factors. First and foremost is knowing what your skin’s tolerance for Retinol is. How experienced are you and is your skin accustomed to Retinol use?
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Importantly, if you’re going to use a Retinol face cream or serum in your AM routine, you have to be as serious about using sunscreen, too. That goes for every day, not just on the days when you’re using a Retinol treatment – whether that’s in the morning or the night before.
Personally, I’ve always looked at Retinol as a nighttime thing. A mid-strength Retinol treatment with a 0.3% concentration is most often central to my PM skincare routine. On days when my skin is feeling really good, I’ll ramp it up to a 0.5% or 1% Retinol face cream. But if my skin is acting up, I’ll skip Retinol entirely.
Generally, I try to include a face serum with Retinol as part of what I refer to as my ABC skincare philosophy. The Skincarma ABC method puts Retinol (Vitamin A), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Vitamin C at the core of a PM skincare routine. Three dedicated serums are best, layered in the order of thinnest to thickest, water-based to oil-based.
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE 10% NIACINAMIDE BOOSTER
Retinol is always best applied on dry skin. It’s something I learned years ago and I’ve always stuck with it. But why do you put retinol on dry skin?
Well, according to the experts at the health website Healthline, Retinol is best applied on dry skin because damp or wet skin can dilute the potency of the product, reducing its effectiveness. Additionally, wet or damp skin is more susceptible to irritation and sensitivity as your pores are more open, which can exacerbate the potential side effects of Retinol use.
Thus it is best to apply retinol to clean, dry skin right before moisturizing. And for me and my ABC method, the order is more like BCA! But that’s not as catchy though, is it? :)
What Retinol products actually work? Well, I’ve sure tried my share of Retinol face creams and serums. And among my favorite mid-strength Retinol face creams is the Paula’s Choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment. In fact, it’s my go-to. I simply trust its exceptional anti-aging effcacy. In addition to a 0.3% concentration of Retinol are Bakuchiol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C), ceramides and peptides. It’s a great formula for both Retinol beginners and those of use who don’t like to over-do it. Catch my Paula’s Choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment review on the blog here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE 0.3% RETINOL + 2% BAKUCHIOL TREATMENT
When it comes to more intense Retinol serums and creams, the one or two nights per week that I go hard, I usually reach for the Paula’s Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment or the Revision Skincare Retinol Complete® 0.5 – a dermatologist favorite with a 0.5% concentration of anti-aging Retinol.
And of course, I always protect my skin the day after with a daily sunscreen! I’m a die-hard suncare fanatic. It may sound crazy but I even wear sunscreen on cloudy, seemingly sunless days. In fact, because my morning workout takes me on a bike 10 miles across Brooklyn, I actually have to apply sunscreen twice in the AM. (I wash it off when I get home from my rides then reapply.)
Yet even while my skin is ideally protected from photodamage (aka sun damage), I’ve steered clear of Retinol in my morning routine. That is until I came across the new Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum – formulated for use AM and/or PM.
But before I get to my review of this innovative new serum below, I wanted to explore some of the most frequently asked questions about using Retinol.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS ARE LASTING IMPRESSIONS!
1. What's the difference between retinol and retinoid?
Retinol is a sub-class of retinoids, which are chemical compounds derived from vitamin A. Retinoids are typically stronger in terms of their efficacy in treating skin concerns but can also cause greater skin irritation.
The Retinol molecule is a weaker form of retinoid and is available over the counter in popular products like the Paula’s Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment and the CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum – which I reviewed recently on the blog here.
Retin-A (tretinoin), adapalene, tazarotene, and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) are examples of prescription-strength retinoids. It is important to note that the terms ‘retinol’ and ‘retinoid’ are often used interchangeably or collectively to describe products with vitamin A derivatives, but they do have distinct differences in terms of strength and formulation. (You may notice that I even use them interchangeably in this article.)
Sources: [1] https://www.byrdie.com/hpr-retinoid-5089108 [2] https://www.healthline.com/health/retinoids-vs-retinol [3] https://www.verywellhealth.com/all-about-retinol-4163868 [4] https://www.byrdie.com/retinoid-vs-retinol-3013508
2. Can you mix retinol and niacinamide?
Well, I certainly do! There is some debate among skincare experts regarding the use of retinol and niacinamide together, as some sources suggest that combining these ingredients may lead to irritation or other adverse effects. You have to gauge your skin’s reaction to the skincare products you apply, which is why it is smart to add one new product at a time. That way you know what the culprit is if your skin does act up.
There are also advocates who suggest that using retinol and niacinamide together can be safe and effective for improving the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging.
According to a 2020 article published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, niacinamide has been found to have anti-inflammatory effects and may help reduce some of the irritation and redness associated with Retinol use. Additionally, a 2019 study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology found that using a niacinamide-based product together with a retinoid cream was safe and effective for improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Still a third study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that combining niacinamide with tretinoin (a prescription-strength retinoid) can be effective for reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
Overall, it appears that using retinol and niacinamide together may be safe and effective for improving the appearance of aging and hyper-pigmented skin. However, it is important to start with lower concentrations of each ingredient and gradually increase usage over time to minimize the risk of irritation or other adverse effects. Additionally, it is best to consult with a dermatologist to determine the best treatment plan for your individual skin concerns.
Browse my top picks of the best Niacinamide serums here. You can also find my recommendations of the best Retinol face creams and serums on the blog here.
Sources: [1] https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.13565 [2] https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961619P1298X/1/ [3] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2918339/
3. Can you use retinol in the morning?
It really depends on whether your skin tolerates Retinol in the day, when you’re exposed to the sun’s UV radiation. Whether you’re using Retinol in the day or night, you have to use an effective daily sunscreen. (Check out my top picks of the best sunscreens for face on the blog here.)
Dermatologists commonly state that Retinol is best used at night, as the anti-aging active can increase sensitivity to sunlight and UV damage. A 2010 review published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology recommends using retinoids at night to avoid potential irritation and photosensitivity. However, some sources suggest that it may be possible to use retinol during the day if paired with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect against UV damage.
It’s important to note that the use of retinol during the day is not recommended for those with very sensitive skin or those who are new to using retinoids. (Psst…the new Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum may be an exception to the sensitive skin standard.)
As with any new skincare ingredient, it’s best to start slowly and gradually increase usage over time to minimize the risk of irritation or other adverse effects. It's also important to consult with a dermatologist or other skincare expert to determine the best treatment plan for your individual skin concerns.
Sources: [1] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20684150 [2] https://www.byrdie.com/can-you-use-retinol-in-the-morning-3013583
4. Can you do retinol twice a day?
Using retinol twice a day is not recommended, as it can increase the risk of skin irritation and sensitivity. According to a 2020 review published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, using retinoids once daily is generally sufficient to achieve the desired anti-aging and skincare benefits without causing excessive irritation or dryness.
It’s important to note that the frequency and dosage of retinol use will vary depending on your skin type, age, and other factors like your skin’s tolerance for Retinol. Those with sensitive or dry skin may need to use retinol less frequently, while those with oily or resilient skin may be able to use it more frequently. It's best to start with a low concentration of retinol and gradually increase usage over time – and to consult with a dermatologist or skincare expert to determine the best treatment plan for your individual skin concerns.
If you’re accustomed to using Retinol, it may be possible to use it twice daily.
Source: [1] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7400895/
5. Product Review
Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum Review
The new Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum is the first Retinol face serum I’ve ever incorporated into my morning skincare routine. And while the Triple Active Total Repair Serum is designed with a mid-strength 0.3% retinoid (in the form of retinyl propionate), it’s actually much more than a standard Retinol treatment.
I like to think of the brand’s newest innovation as a multi-benefit anti-aging serum with antioxidants that prevents and corrects multiple complexion irregularities. The Triple Active Total Repair Serum is powered by a trio of potent actives (hence “triple” in the name): Retinyl Propionate, Niacinamide and Hexylresorcinol – a synthetic antioxidant that helps to fade dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmenation.
Like sunscreen, antioxidants are best used in your AM skincare routine as they help to defend your skin from environmental aggressors while you’re out in the elements. It doesn’t mean that your skin doesn’t benefit from an infusion of antioxidants late in the day. But in the morning, sunscreen filters and antioxidants combine to deliver broad defense against photodamage – a leading cause of the most common signs of skin aging, including dark spots, uneven skin tone and wrinkles.
RETINOL FOR DAY? YES!
What exactly does the Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum do? Well, it addresses the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone – and can even prevent and correct the look of lines and wrinkles in your complexion and stimulate collagen production and cell turnover. If any of these are concerns for you, then this new Paula's Choice anti-aging serum is worth your attention. The stuff is gold!
How does it achieve all of these things at once? The Triple Active Total Repair Serum blends two tried and true ingredients at elevated levels – 0.3% retinoid and 5% Niacinamide – with an uncommon, yet powerful synthetic antioxidant called Hexylresorcinol. It’s actually a very smart, innovative formula.
And skincare innovation is firing on all cylinders this year. Especially hot are innovations that address dark spots and Paula's Choice isn’t alone on this front. Last week, I posted my The Ordinary Aloe 2% + NAG 2% Solution review – a new product introduced by the brand just last month. As I said in my product review, The Ordinary’s Aloe 2% + NAG 2% Solution is one of the coolest new innovations for the treatment of acne marks, uneven skin tone, dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation.
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At $14.50, the new Aloe 2% + NAG 2% Solution diverges from traditional solutions for dark spots (most dark spot serums rely on Vitamin C) – with an innovative approach to spots and marks in the complexion with its NAG technology. N-acetyl glucosamine, or NAG, is a biotechnology-derived active that’s been shown to target numerous types of spots and uneven skin tone.
Likewise, the Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum is attempting to deliver exciting new innovation. I think the trend originates from the frustration of consumers who feel that even the best dark spot serums aren’t actually best at doing much of anything. In fact, they’re more marketing spin than anything else.
Products like Clinique’s repeatedly revamped Even Better Clinical™ Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter Serum and the Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective™ Dark Spot Solution haven’t delivered much beyond marketing hype, even though they’ve been the two bestselling dark spot serums for more than a decade.
At $57 for one ounce, the Clinique Even Better serum only gets a 3 1/2 star rating out of 5 on the Sephora website. That’s despite the fact that the brand claims you’ll “see a 39% visible reduction in dark spots in 12 weeks.” (Funny, Kiehl’s claims the exact same thing.)
Both dark spots serums rely on traditional solutions for spots and hyeprigmentation. The Kiehl’s product is formulated with about a 2-3% concentration of Vitamin C paired with 1% Salicylic Acid. Both concentrations are relatively low and may be one reason it takes 12 weeks to do what it’s meant to do. You had one job!
On the other hand, the Clinique dark spot serum relies on a fake marketing complex called CL302 Brightening Complex™ – essentially a combination of Vitamin C, Salicylic Acid and an unpronounceable Chinese herb with antioxidant properties.
But the Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum takes a different approach to treating texture irregularities. And that’s where the Retinoid-Niacinamide-Hexylresorcinol combination comes into play.
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Key to its innovative efficacy is the retinoid. Retinoids like Retinol and Retinyl Propionate help to stimulate collagen production and accelerate cell turnover so that fresh cells appear on the skin surface. Notably, Retinyl Propionate is a more gentle, non-irritating form of Retinol that is suitable for sensitive skin. It helps to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin texture, and reduce hyperpigmentation.
Niacinamide is a clinically proven workhorse as well and one of the most effective skin brighteners with the ability to even out skin tone and fade dark spots – particularly at a 5% concentration. It also helps prevent new spots from forming.
And what does Hexylresorcinol do for your skin? According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice research team, Hexylresorcinol helps prevent collagen breakdown, preserving skin’s firmness while its powerful antioxidant properties help prevent environmental aging. As a solution for dark spots, Hexylresorcinol “plays a role in interrupting specific pathways in skin that lead to hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, thus improving the uniformity of skin’s surface color.”
The Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum does also contain two non-fragrant plant oils to replenish moisture as well as Glycerin, a functional though unsexy humectant. Along with the Niacinamide, the actives combine to help prevent trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL – the leading cause of dehydration.
I’m obsessed with the texture of the Triple Active Total Repair Serum. It’s thicker than a serum, lighter than a lotion. I guess that makes it a serum-lotion?! It’s relatively easy to layer, making it ideal for morning use. I don’t know about you, but I need all the time I can get in the morning.
I’ve been using it daily as part of my morning routine and have even used it twice daily – AM and PM. Because it’s so much lighter than my other Retinol face creams, it will make an ideal Retinol treatment for summer. Now I have one more thing to be excited about as the temps rise!
6. Pros & Cons
What I like about it: The Paula's Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum is the first Retinol serum I’ve ever used in the day time. I’ve used it every day religiously for the past 6 weeks and have seen no irritation or other signs of sensitivity during the day. I love its combination of Retinyl Propionate, Niacinamide and Hexylresorcinol – all at high concentrations that deliver proven results. No fake complex names, or skimping on the Vitamin C.
What I don’t like about it: Well, the most obvious is the potential for sensitization due to its mid-strength concentration of the retinoid Retinyl Propionate. There are no apparent skin soothers in the formula, though the Retinyl Propionate is believed to be gentle enough for sensitive skin.
Who it’s for: All skin types.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Paula’s Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum for $48 here.
The Ingredient List of the Paula’s Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum:
Water/Aqua/Eau, Isopropyl Myristate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Hydroxystearic Acid, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Tocotrienols, Retinyl Propionate, Hexylresorcinol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Leaf Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Dilauryl Thiodipropionate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Phytate, BHT.
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