PRODUCT REVIEW: THE INKEY LIST POLYGLUTAMIC ACID DEWY SUNSCREEN SPF 30 - What Is Polyglutamic Acid? Is Polyglutamic Acid Better than Hyaluronic Acid?
THE INKEY LIST | POLYGLUTAMIC ACID DEWY SUNSCREEN SPF 30
I first came across The INKEY List nearly four years ago, just after the UK-based brand launched on the Cult Beauty website.
And I was hooked from the start! In fact, I bought the entire INKEY range which at the time comprised maybe a dozen products. I remember that unboxing like it was yesterday. There was INKEY everywhere!
My first INKEY haul included several faves that didn’t quite catch on. Among these was the obscure, pungent Turmeric Cream, which the brand discontinued last year. (Ugh, I have one tube of it left in my stash!)
I was also an early adopter of the brand’s Bakuchiol Moisturizer – one of the first products of its kind on the market. Since the introduction of this unique anti-aging face cream, Bakuchiol has become commonplace and face creams with Bakuchiol are today accepted as viable alternatives to Retinol face creams – minus the irritation and sensitivity. I’m not sure I ever believed all that hype.
But I believed in INKEY from day one. I’ve incorporated numerous products from the brand into my regular daily skincare routines over the years. The one product that I’ve missed and longed for from the brand? Sunscreen!
I’m excited to be among the first to test out The INKEY List’s Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30. It’s such a unique formula and has quickly skyrocketed to the top of my list as one of the best daily sunscreens for face. And, well, it’s like $15.
Best Products from The Inkey List
INKEY has been among the most innovative skincare brands since the brand’s launch in 2018. They’re always at the leading edge of ingredient innovation. Yes, INKEY was among the very first to formulate with Bakuchiol. In fact, I included The INKEY List’s Bakuchiol Moisturizer in an article nearly four years ago titled, Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Anti-Aging Serums from The Inkey List, Herbivore & More!
INKEY has introduced me to several breakthrough skincare ingredients in the years since. Among them are Succinic Acid, Fulvic Acid and Polyglutamic Acid. I had never heard of any of these ingredients, let alone experienced skincare products made with them, before INKEY added them to my medicine cabinet – and to my skincare routine.
Never heard of Succinic Acid either? Well, The INKEY List’s Succinic Acid Acne Treatment happens to be one of the few new acne treatment innovations in ages. It’s a gentle acne spot treatment formulated with a blend of two proven actives for the treatment of acne: Sulfur Powder and Salicylic Acid – which are combined with Succinic Acid.
PRODUCT REVIEW: THE INKEY LIST SUCCINIC ACID ACNE TREATMENT
What is Succinic Acid and what does Succinic Acid do for your skin?
Well, Succinic Acid is an organic acid that is naturally found in a variety of foods; it is also produced by the body. When it comes to skincare, Succinic Acid is utilized for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making it useful for treating acne and other skin conditions. It can also help promote cell turnover and can even improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as improve the skin’s overall texture and radiance.
I told you The INKEY List Succinic Acid Acne Treatment was innovative! Catch my review of it on the blog here.
Another cool INKEY ingredient introduction was Polyglutamic Acid. Sure, it’s the star ingredient in The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30, which I review just below. But this isn’t the first time the brand has used it.
New to The Inkey List’s Polyglutamic Acid Serum? The brand first introduced this unique hydrating serum in late 2021. It’s a super lightweight, watery serum that delivers more humectant power than even the best hydrating serum with Hyaluronic Acid. You can catch my review of it here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: THE INKEY LIST POLYGLUTAMIC ACID SERUM – BEST HYDRATING SERUM
And, yes, INKEY introduced me to Polyglutamic Acid, too! Also referred to as PGA, I had never heard of the powerful humectant molecule before. Similar to Hyaluronic Acid and Palmitic Acid, Polyglutamic Acid isn’t a direct acid; that is, it has no exfoliating benefits.
There are a few different types of “indirect acids” commonly used in skincare, including humectants like Hyaluronic Acid and Polyglutamic Acid. On the other hand, several common direct acids work as exfoliants and can help to remove dead skin cells, improve texture, and brighten the complexion. Among the most common direct acids are Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid and even Ascorbic Acid.
What is Polyglutamic Acid and is Polyglutamic Acid more effective than Hyaluronic Acid?
As I like to do, I first seek out skincare truths from the experts on the Paula’s Choice research team. You can access their full assessment of the Polyglutamic Acid ingredient here. Following is an excerpt:
Polyglutamic acid is a water-soluble humectant capable of attracting and holding water within skin and on its surface. It’s a polymer of the amino acid glutamic acid that’s made via bacterial fermentation using various types of skin-friendly Bacillus, a gram-positive, rod-shaped bacteria. The resulting ingredient has been shown to rival hydrating results of hyaluronic acid; in fact, some studies indicate it surpasses hyaluronic acid, although it does not have that ingredient’s antioxidant or skin-soothing properties, nor is polyglutamic acid naturally found in skin.
THE SECRET WAS KILLING ME!
Before I get to my The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 product review just below, I wanted to dig deeper into Polyglutamic Acid and explore its unique hydrating benefits that are on par with Hyaluronic Acid. To do so, I sourced the artificial intelligence technology at you.com for expert answers to a few key questions. Here’s how the AI responded to my queries:
1. What Is Polyglutamic Acid?
Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a naturally occurring biopolymer composed of repeating units of the amino acid glutamic acid. It is produced by a number of species of Bacillus bacteria, including B. subtilis and B. licheniformis [1]. PGA has a high molecular weight, high water solubility, and forms a viscous solution, which makes it useful in a variety of applications, including as a humectant in skincare products, in the food industry as a thickening or gelling agent, and as a potential wound dressing material due to its antimicrobial properties [2][3][4].
Sources: [1] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3777423/ [2] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4567033/ [3] https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ics.12261 [4] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0141813019336347
2. What Does Polyglutamic Acid Do to the Skin?
Polyglutamic acid (PGA) helps to hydrate and moisturize the skin by increasing its ability to retain water. It also enhances the skin's natural exfoliation process, making it softer and smoother. PGA has been found to be more effective than hyaluronic acid in terms of its ability to hold and retain moisture in the skin. PGA is also known for its antioxidant properties that protect the skin from environmental stressors that can cause premature aging [1][2][3].
Sources: [1] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4567033/ [2] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3777423/ [3] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0190962216300010
3. Is Polyglutamic Acid Better than Hyaluronic Acid?
Yes, polyglutamic acid (PGA) has been shown to be more effective than hyaluronic acid (HA) in terms of its ability to hold and retain moisture in the skin. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that PGA increased skin hydration and barrier function more than HA [1]. Another study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that topical application of PGA improved the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, skin firmness, and elasticity in human subjects [2].
Sources: [1] https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ics.12261 [2] https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.12187
4. What Type of Sunscreen Is Best for Sensitive Skin?
For sensitive skin, it is important to choose a sunscreen that is fragrance-free, hypoallergenic, and non-comedogenic (meaning it won’t clog pores). Physical sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are generally better tolerated by sensitive skin than chemical sunscreens. Here are some recommendations:
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Ultra-Light Fluid SPF 50: This sunscreen contains 100% mineral UV filters and is formulated to be suitable for sensitive skin [1].
Neutrogena Sensitive Skin Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50: This sunscreen is formulated with 100% zinc oxide and is free of fragrances and oils [2].
EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46: This sunscreen contains 9% zinc oxide and 7.5% octinoxate and is designed for acne-prone and sensitive skin [3].
Sources: [1] https://www.laroche-posay.us/sunscreen/sunscreen-product-type/ultra-light-fluid-mineral-sunscreen-spf-50-3337875543014.html [2] https://www.neutrogena.com/sun/sensitive-skin/sensitive-skin-face-mineral-sunscreen-broad-spectrum-spf-50/6811084.html [3] https://eltamd.com/product/uv-clear-broad-spectrum-spf-46/
5. Product Review
The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 Review
In true INKEY fashion, the brand brought the innovation with the introduction of their long awaited facial sunscreen. And let me tell you, it was worth the wait. Worth all those mediocre affordable sunscreens that came before it, including several from authoritative suncare brands like La Roche-Posay and Neutrogena.
I love a facial sunscreen with Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, emollient plants oils – any pro-skin health actives, really. Why not maximize your skin health by pairing sun filters like Zinc Oxide and Octocrylene with other powerful ingredients?
I’m a huge fan of the Supergoop! Daily Dose Vitamin C + SPF 40 Sunscreen Serum PA+++ which I’ve reviewed on the blog here. But no one ever really thought to put Polyglutamic Acid in a sunscreen before. At least I’ve never seen it on an INCI.
Priced at just about $15, The INKEY List’s Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 is one of the coolest, most affordable sunscreens for face I’ve ever come across. Think of it as one part SPF, one part brightening moisturizer. And by brightening, I don’t mean by way of Vitamin C or alpha hydroxy acids. Not even Niacinamide. With the new Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen, it’s all about hydration. Lots of it. Oh, and this ridiculously dewy glow.
CATCH MY FIRST IMPRESSION
OF IT
As I said earlier, it’s important to make a distinction between direct acids and indirect acids. Similar to Hyaluronic Acid and Palmitic Acid, Polyglutamic Acid is an indirect acid. Again, indirect acids have no harsh exfoliating properties. So don’t be fooled by the word acid in the name. It’s all good. The Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen is super gentle and perfectly wearable by all skin types – even sensitive, oily and acne-prone.
In fact it’s a pleasure to use! One of the top reasons consumers give for not wearing sunscreen every day is that they tend to be unpleasant; they’re uncomfortable on the skin. The INKEY List’s Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 feels great on your face from application to the time you wash it off in the evening. The only reminder you have it on? You’re face never stops glowing.
And what really stands out about it is that crazy glowing effect. It comes across as a healthy radiance that lasts all day long. Every time I wear it, I inevitably catch myself in the mirror at some point in the day. It’s just this exceptional finish that leaves me looking fresh AF.
What’s driving the otherworldly dewiness? Well, it’s what INKEY describes as an “8% Hydration Trio,” comprised of Polyglutamic Acid, Glycerin, and Squalane. The combo is ridiculously long-lasting without feeling greasy on your skin.
So the finish is exceptional. But what about the texture? Well, it’s kind of rich at first, but it blends perfectly into your skin. After about 15-20 seconds, what you feel is kind of a smooth, soft-to-the-touch veil over your skin. And, again, it feels like there’s nothing on your face at all.
I know you’re wondering: Is The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen a chemical sunscreen or a mineral sunscreen?
The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 is a chemical sunscreen designed with a blend of chemical filters. If you’re not a fan of chemical sunscreens, or prefer to use a mineral facial sunscreen, this one isn’t for you. I invite you to explore my top picks of the best sunscreens for face on the blog here.
Personally, I prefer mineral filters. But, as I often say, what’s most important is that you find a sunscreen you love so much you wouldn’t even think to skip it in your morning routine. Not even on cloudy, seemingly sunless days!
What percent of UV does sunscreen block?
SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays
SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays
SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays.
So, the difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 is about 1 percent.
So we’ve got a blend of chemical UV filters and that 8% concentration of humectants and emollients that help to keep skin hydrated and moisturized throughout the day. What else does The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 boast?
Well, there’s also some nourishing Saccharomyces Ferment – a natural fermented active derived from saccharomyces yeasts. The soothing, antioxidant active is popular in Korean skincare and is a feature of some of the most iconic products.
Among the most notable skincare with Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate are Missha’s Time Revolution First Treatment Essence and the Good Molecules Niacinamide Brightening Toner – one of my favorite brightening toners with Niacinamide. (I’ve reviewed on the blog here.)
There’s also a smattering of soothing botanical actives – and nary a drop of drying alcohol or fragrance – never a concern with INKEY. Combined with the Saccharomyces Ferment and humectants, The INKEY List’s new sunscreen is an effective skin soother that helps defend against irritation and redness. It certainly doesn’t cause any, unlike many La Roche-Posay sunscreens.
The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 is simply one of the best facial sunscreens under $20 – or any price for that matter!
6. Pros & Cons
What I like about it: The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 is a superb brightener, hydrator and facial sunscreen in one. I love its ridiculously dewy finish that lasts all day. And, unlike so many facial sunscreens, it’s free of fragrance, drying alcohol and is super comfortable on the skin. At about $15, it’s one of the best sunscreens for the price.
What I don’t like about it: Honestly, I love everything about it. I wouldn’t change a thing.
Who it’s for: All skin types, even sensitive.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 for $14.99 here.
The Ingredient List of The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30:
Water (Aqua / Eau), Octocrylene, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Triheptanoin, Saccharomyces Ferment, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Squalane, Hectorite, Lauroyl Lysine, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Dimethiconol, Polysorbate 60, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Oryza Sativa (Purple Rice) Hull Extract, Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis (Purple Tea) Leaf Extract, Ipomoea Batatas (Purple Sweet Potato) Root Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate.
IS IT REALLY A SCAM?
Find out on my TikTok channel.
MY TOP VITAMIN C PICKS FW21: NEW VITAMIN C SERUMS I’M CRUSHING ON FROM ALGENIST, NATURIUM AND MORE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUMS FOR CLOGGED PORES AND A BRIGHTER COMPLEXION
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
SKINCARE HACKS: GLYCOLIC ACID IS THE NATURAL DEODORANT THAT WORKS!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GHOST DEMOCRACY AND MORE
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
COOL CLEAN FACIAL SUNSCREENS TO KEEP US SAFE AND SMILING IN THE SUN!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
THE OPULUS BEAUTY LABS RETINOL SYSTEM – THE COOLEST RETINOL INNOVATION I’VE EVER SEEN
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
MY 2021 VITAMIN C PICKS + THE BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS TO BRIGHTEN UP THE COMPLEXION!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
A COMPLETE K-BEAUTY ROUTINE WITH THE BEST FACIAL SKINCARE FROM PURITO, COSRX, MISSHA & MORE!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
THE YEAR’S BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH PAULA'S CHOICE, SUNDAY RILEY, THE INKEY LIST AND MORE!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
A SELFCARE SUNDAY NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART – WITH THE PAULA’S CHOICE 25% AHA PEEL!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
