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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY MULTI-PEPTIDE EYE SERUM - What Do Peptides Do for the Skin? Can A Face Cream with Peptides Fix Signs of Aging?Why Can’t You Use Vitamin C and Peptides Together?

PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY MULTI-PEPTIDE EYE SERUM - What Do Peptides Do for the Skin? Can A Face Cream with Peptides Fix Signs of Aging?Why Can’t You Use Vitamin C and Peptides Together?

THE ORDINARY | MULTI-PEPTIDE EYE SERUM

This certainly seems like The Year of the Peptide. Over the last several weeks, I’ve come across so many interesting new face creams with peptides, anti-aging serums with peptides, even peptide eye creams. And they just keep coming!

For years now, the most popular ingredients in Google searches have centered around the vitamins – Vitamin C, Niacinamide and Retinol – and what these powerful antioxidant substances do for your skin.

I’m sure the hottest searches of 2023 now include questions like, “What are peptides?”, “What do peptides do for skin?” and “Do peptides really work on skin?” I have to admit, I’m blown away by the trend! It’s not exactly as if peptides are new. My favorite moisturizer of all time, the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream came out a few years ago.

In fact, TLPC has been my go-to skin savior for three winters in a row now. I can’t imagine maintaining my skin health in the cold without it. You can catch my review of what I consider the best face cream for dry skin and all skins in winter on the blog here.

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On the blog three weeks ago, I featured one of my favorite new face cream discoveries – the Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer. As one of the most affordable, well-formulated and intriguing new moisturizers, it’s really impressed me on so many levels.

As I said in my review of it here, “The Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer is IMO one of the best anti-aging moisturizers under $20. In fact, I haven’t come across many $20 face creams that are this loaded with pro-skin health actives. I’m super impressed with its infusion of three peptides, Niacinamide, and one of the most potent forms of Vitamin C. Naturium really nailed it with this one; it’s their most innovative moisturizer to date.”

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If you’re a fan of The Ordinary, you’ve probably heard that the brand repackaged, repositioned and relaunched its popular “Buffet” peptide serum. It was reintroduced two months ago as Multi-Peptide + HA Serum. Why ditch the catchy “Buffet” name? Well, it’s because it’s powered by peptides and you can’t tell that from the name.

The Ordinary’s newly positioned Multi-Peptide + HA Serum is the same exact formula as “Buffet” – powered by three proprietary peptide complexes that combine to stimulate collagen production to plump skin and smooth the look of surface lines and wrinkles. For just $17.50 The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum is now one of the best peptide serums under $20. Catch my review of it on the blog here.

PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY MULTI-PEPTIDE + HA SERUM - BEST PEPTIDE SERUM

With all this peptide mania, you’re likely wondering what peptides do and why you should add a peptide serum or anti-aging cream with peptides to your routine.

I presented the question of what peptides are and how they function to the AI at my now favorite search engine you.com. Unlike Google’s iconic search feature, it’s powered by OpenAI’s Chat GPT. Here’s how the groundbreaking artificial intelligence technology responded to three specific questions I asked about peptides:

What are peptides and what do peptides do for the skin?

Peptides are amino acid chains that act as messengers for the skin, helping it to function optimally. They can help increase collagen production, improve skin barrier function, reduce wrinkles, make skin more elastic, and ease inflammation. Peptides can also help clear breakouts, reduce inflammation, aid in wound healing, and relax facial muscles to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles [1].

1. How Peptides Work to Reverse the Signs of Aging; Peptides for Skin: Benefits, What to Look for, and Side Effects; Peptides for Skin: What They Are and What They Do

Can a face cream with peptides fix signs of aging?

Yes, face creams with peptides can help to reduce the signs of aging. Peptides are protein fragments that can help to stimulate collagen production, which can help to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, as well as improving skin tone and elasticity. Additionally, peptides also have antioxidant properties, which can help to protect against environmental damage and further reduce the appearance of aging.

Wrinkle creams: Your guide to younger looking skin - Mayo Clinic

Are all peptides the same and how many different peptides are there?

No, not all peptides are the same. There are many different types of peptides, including dipeptides, tripeptides, and polypeptides. The number of different peptides depends on the number of different amino acids that are used to make them, but it is estimated that there are millions of different peptides in the human body.

Peptide: What it is, Types, Functions, Uses

Antimicrobial Peptides: Classification, Design, Application ... - Frontiers

What Is the Difference Between a Peptide and a Protein? | Britannica



On the heels of The Ordinary’s relaunch of the Multi-Peptide + HA Serum, the brand introduced its new Multi-Peptide Eye Serum. Somehow I can’t imagine it being called “Buffet” Eye Serum or “Buffet” for Eyes. That sounds like a promotional tagline for Sunday brunch at Cracker Barrel.

But you can see the brilliant marketers at The Ordinary at work here. Clearly they felt a pressing need to reposition their iconic peptide serum by refocusing it around its core ingredient technology: peptides. After all, that’s how the brand approaches everything else, including The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Oil Control Serum and Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension Brightening Cream – two of my all-time favorites.

The Ordinary’s new Multi-Peptide Eye Serum feels like quite a different formula than its peptide-powered predecessor for the face. In fact, it’s packed with additional beneficial actives, including Niacinamide and Caffeine, that specifically target concerns of the eye area like dark circles and puffiness.

Let’s take a closer look at The Ordinary’s new peptide eye treatment for dark circles, puffiness, crows feet and just about every concern of the eye area…


The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum

Like their iconic Multi-Peptide + HA Serum for the face, The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide Eye Serum is a water-based serum. If you’re familiar with the original “Buffet” peptide serum, you know the formula is light and pulpy, absorbing quickly into the skin.

The new Multi-Peptide Eye Serum has a more watery and even silky texture that feels wonderful around the eyes. I’ve been using it nearly every night as a layering serum before applying a night cream. Why? Because the Multi-Peptide Eye Serum isn’t a cream; it’s not occlusive and doesn’t deliver much in the way of moisture to combat dry skin around the eyes.

In fact, my analysis of the INCI leaves me wondering why The Ordinary doesn’t declare it oil free. I guess it doesn’t much matter. It’s intended to be layered beneath your eye cream, or under a gentle face cream around the eyes. Which begs the question, Is it okay to use a moisturizer around your eyes?

The answer is…it depends. It’s perfectly fine to use your moisturizer all over your face, including in your immediate eye area, if it’s gentle enough for the eyes. And, if you don’t have any specific eye-area concerns like dark circles and puffiness.

So go for it! I often do! And if you do use your facial moisturizer around your eyes, The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide Eye Serum is perfect to layer beneath it. Just smooth some of the serum around the entire eye area, then slather your face cream (or eye cream) over it.

What makes The Ordinary’s new peptide serum for eyes so special that the brand is charging $25 for it? Well, it’s the peptides. There are numerous peptide technologies in the Multi-Peptide Eye Serum that the brand says combine to “help reduce the appearance of crow’s feet and under eye wrinkles, eye bags, puffiness, and dark circles, leaving the eye area looking brighter, smoother and less puffy.”

Among the four-peptide cocktail in The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide Eye Serum are Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate. Most notable is that first peptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, at ingredient number eight. You may know it by its trade name, Matrixyl Synthe'6.

Best Products from The Ordinary


What Is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and What Does Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 Do?

I first consulted the experts on the Paula’s Choice research team for answers. Here’s what they had to say about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, aka Matrixyl Synthe'6: “Studies relating specifically to palmitoyl tripeptide-38 have shown that it helps improve the appearance of multiple signs of aging, including fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and dullness. This research also shows that palmitoyl tripeptide-38 is even more effective in this capacity when combined with other skin-beneficial ingredients such as antioxidants and hyaluronic acid.”

Not to be outdone, I also consulted my AI friend:

“Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a peptide derived from the tripeptide KMK naturally found in collagen VI and laminin [1]. It is a matrikine-mimetic compound that regulates cell activity [2], wound repair, and collagen tissue remodeling. It is often used in cosmetic products to reduce wrinkles, lines, and signs of aging.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 is sometimes referred to as Matrixyl Synthe'6, which is the trade name under which it is manufactured by the brand Sederma.”


SKINCARMA ON TIKTOK

Catch my first impression of it!

Beyond its four peptides, what else does The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide Eye Serum offer that benefits your eye area? Well, there’s a good amount of the multi-purpose antioxidant Niacinamide, which I guess to be at between 1-2%. While that’s a sufficient amount of Niacinamide for an antioxidant benefit and even a bit of brightening, it’s not enough to do what I depend on Niacinamide for: skin strengthening.

In terms of its antioxidant potency, Niacinamide isn’t the only one included in the formula. Similarly to The Ordinary’s Caffeine 5% + ECGC Depuffing Eye Serum, the new eye serum contains both depuffing Caffeine and the antioxidant Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside (ECGC) – a catechin or type of natural phenol derived from antioxidant-rich green tea.

Perhaps most impressive are the brand’s clinical results for the Multi-Peptide Eye Serum:

Clinical evaluation of the efficacy of The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide Eye Serum showed a significant improvement in crow’s feet and under-eye wrinkles of the eye area in just 4 weeks, with further improvement seen after 8 weeks.

Regarding eye bags, a 20% reduction in the look of eye bags was seen at 4 weeks, with a 50% reduction at 8 weeks. The look of dark circles was also significantly reduced by 28% at week 4 and 53% at 8 weeks.



What I like about it: The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum is a peptide lover’s dream come true. I love its powerful blend of four peptides which combine to address signs of aging in the eye area, including crow’s feet wrinkles. It also addresses my main eye-area concerns, puffiness and dark circles. The texture is perfect, allowing for easy layering before an eye cream or moisturizer for face.

What I don’t like about it: I like everything about it – even if it’s a bit pricy for The Ordinary!

Who it’s for: All skin types.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum for $25 here.


The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum:

Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Acetyl Glucosamine, Niacinamide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Caffeine, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Silanetriol, Arginine, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Propyl Gallate, Maltodextrin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.




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