THE INKEY LIST | OMEGA WATER CREAM MOISTURIZER

This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, Products I'm Into: New Stuff from The Inkey List. You can catch the full piece here.

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I love discovering new things. Whether it’s cool TikTok beauty hacks, innovative skincare treatments or delicious vegan treats, it’s the little things that make my days delightful.

Just ahead of vegan donuts on the delight scale are innovative skincare products. And when it comes to cool, new stuff I’d never imagined, let alone heard of, The Inkey List has long been an innovation machine.

One of my favorite new Inkey products over the past year is the brand’s Succinic Acid Acne Treatment. I’m always seeking out new acne products — and particularly gentle, effective blemish serums and creams that don’t dry out the skin and compromise the delicate microbiome. That only perpetuates the acne cycle; it’s the reason so many people struggle with acne longterm.

The Inkey List’s Succinic Acid Acne Treatment is a blend of two tried-and-true, proven acne treatment actives, Sulfur Powder and Salicylic Acid. By themselves, they’re not innovative. But combined with Succinic Acid, an ingredient I’d never heard of until Inkey imagined it, you’ve got acne innovation. In the year since the product launched, I’ve seen Succinic Acid in several other acne products. The Inkey List didn’t event it, but they kicked off a trend!

PRODUCT REVIEW: THE INKEY LIST SUCCINIC ACID ACNE TREATMENT – BEST GENTLE ACNE TREATMENT

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What Is Succinic Acid and What Does Succinic Acid Do for Skin?

In my initial review of The Inkey List’s Succinic Acid Acne Treatment, I wanted to know more about the mysterious sounding ingredient and found an insightful piece on the Refinery29 website titled, I Used Buzzy Ingredient Succinic Acid For 4 Weeks & It Changed My Skin.

What is succinic acid and how can it treat acne, fine lines and wrinkles?
“Naturally found in amber or sugar cane, succinic acid is sustainably obtained through a process of fermentation and is similar in aim to salicylic acid. It has skin-softening and bacteria-inhibiting properties and helps to control sebum, therefore reducing shine and excess oil, which can potentially lead to breakouts. It also restores the skin’s pH balance – something some skincare products (such as foaming cleansers or harsh exfoliating acids) can disrupt, causing redness, dryness and cracked skin.
“Although new to us in the beauty industry, succinic acid has been used in European countries for many years for its medicinal properties. Its skincare properties are especially intriguing, though. ‘As succinic acid balances oily and congested complexions, it’s ideal for patients with acne,’ says skin expert and facialist Renée Lapino. ‘This leads to fewer spots and blackheads. But succinic acid also reverses the visible signs of ageing, and is especially useful for those with sensitive skin that gets red or irritated easily.’”

The Succinic Acid Acne Treatment has become one of my go-to blemish treatments for my occasional breakouts. It’s quite effective — and never dries out my skin. I have Inkey innovation to thank for that!

Over the last several weeks, the brand has been on a roll with multiple new product introductions and I’ve been excited to give them all a try. Three of them stand out to me, featured in the blog.

The Inkey List Omega Water Cream Moisturizer is a wonderfully light, refreshing lotion that’s slightly thicker than a conventional gel-cream. With the change of seasons and warmer weather ahead, it couldn’t have come at a better time.

I love a good cleanser! Among my favorites for warmer weather is a gel type cleanser. Often, however, even the best cleansing gels can dry out the skin. Inkey infused their new Hyaluronic Acid Cleanser with an innovative complex of humectants and hydrators to infuse skin with moisture and prevent dryness. It’s so cool and such a pleasure to use!

Last is The Inkey List Mandelic Acid Treatment for the treatment of acne marks — one of the most vexing acne-related conditions to treat. Even I deal with leftover signs of acne in the days and weeks after the blemish has been eradicated. Mandelic Acid is hot in skincare right now and this new treatment really intrigues me.

Let’s take a look at one of The Inkey List’s latest innovations for SS22 in more detail…

The Inkey List | Omega Water Cream Moisturizer

With the change of seasons upon us here in NYC, I’ve been switching up my skincare to lighter, fresher, more comfortable textures. Over the course of the winter, when the low-humidity air sucks the water (and the life!) out of my face, I rely on rich, lipid-replenishing and occlusive moisturizers.

Among the best face creams for dry skin and all skins in the cold is the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream. Since October, I used up three jars of Skinfix’s best-selling product and one of the most popular moisturizers on the Sephora website. The brand’s TLPC is clinically proven to replenish lipids like ceramides and fatty acids, essential to defending against trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). In fact, TEWL is the leading cause of dehydration and one of the key causes of skin aging — right behind unprotected sun exposure.

PRODUCT REVIEW: SKINFIX BARRIER+ TRIPLE LIPID-PEPTIDE FACE CREAM AND TRIPLE LIPID-BOOST 360° EYE CREAM

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What Is Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL)?

Trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL, is the leading cause of dehydration — or insufficient water in the skin’s layers. Just as the body needs sufficient quantities of water each day to survive, the skin needs water to function in an optimally healthy manner. Dehydrated skin compromises skin barrier function, diminishing the skin’s ability to fortify itself against external aggressors.

For a deep-dive into trans-epidermal water loss, there’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? It’s available to read here. In the piece, the author explains TEWL as follows:

“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).
While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.
Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”

PRODUCT REVIEW: SKINFIX BARRIER+ SKIN BARRIER RESTORING GEL CREAM – BEST FACE CREAM FOR OILY SKIN

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Skinfix knows the change of seasons means lighter textures and the brand recently introduced its new Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream, which I reviewed on the blog here.

The Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream has a super light gel-cream texture that glides on easily and is immediately absorbed into the skin. The texture makes it the ideal face cream for oily skin. While the texture isn’t unique as far as lightweight face creams go, IMO it’s likely the best gel-cream moisturizer on the market.

So I was eager to try out The Inkey List’s Omega Water Cream Moisturizer, which was recently introduced. Similar to the Skinfix Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream, the new gel-cream moisturizer from The Inkey List has a light, refreshing texture that feels like nothing on the skin – perfect for a warm spring day.

And not unlike the Skinfix TLPC, the Omega Water Cream Moisturizer is formulated with bio-compatible lipids that the skin craves — and soaks right up. The Inkey List has infused their new, velvety gel-cream with what the brand identifies as a 0.5% concentration of “Ceramosides.” I believe these appear in the formula INCI as both glycosphingolipids and glycolipids.

What are glycolipids? Well, according to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, glycolipids are a lipid, or fat, that’s composed of both lipids and sugar. I don’t know that glycolipids are any more beneficial for the skin than other more common lipids like ceramides and fatty acids. Skin (like taste buds!) loves fats of all kinds.

What Are Skin Lipids and Are Lipids Good for Skin?

There’s an insightful article on the Dermstore website titled, The Role of Lipids—Cholesterol, Ceramides and Fatty Acids—in the Aging Process which you can read here.

Lipids in Your Skin
In a nutshell, lipids are skin’s natural fats. They are essential components of skin and play a crucial role in maintaining the strength of the skin’s protective barrier, which holds moisture, protects the skin from damage and keeps dirt and impurities out. They also aid the skin’s natural repair process. While there are many types of lipids, these three are the most prevalent—and important—for the skin.

Cholesterol: This lipid helps accelerate the skin barrier’s recovery and improve the appearance of skin elasticity. Visible skin aging is often caused by cholesterol deficiency on the skin. It’s important to note that cholesterol on your skin is different from the cholesterol found in the blood, and having more of it on your skin won’t cause your blood pressure to spike.
Ceramides: This type of lipid is proven to increase the skin’s hydration and barrier function. Ceramide deficiency is the main cause of dry skin.
Fatty acids: Abundant in young, healthy skin, fatty acids help maintain the skin’s lipid balance.

The Role of Topical Lipids
Healthy, youthful skin has an abundance of these naturally occurring lipids. As we age, lipid production declines, and this can result in rough surface texture, uncomfortable tightness, dullness and loss of facial fullness. A compromised skin barrier is also more prone to irritation and water loss. This is why it’s important to counter the effects of lipid loss with a topical treatment—but not just any topical treatment.

A basic moisturizer for just about $10, The Inkey List’s Omega Water Cream Moisturizer is the best face cream the brand has offered to date. In addition to the pro-skin health, replenishing glycolipids that help to prevent trans-epidermal water loss, it’s infused with humectants that help to bind to and hold water in the skin.

But what I love most in the INCI is the 5% concentration of brightening, antioxidant Niacinamide. That’s a significant amount of Niacinamide, which is generally at or below the recommended 2% for a face cream. Bravo Inkey!

What I like about it: The Inkey List Omega Water Cream Moisturizer is IMO the best face cream the brand has offered to date. I love its light, refreshing texture that’s quickly absorbed by the skin. Its blend of occlusive and water-binding lipids and humectants is ideal for preventing TEWL. And, the 5% concentration of antioxidant Niacinamide is exceptional for a moisturizer.

What I don’t like about it: I like everything about it. It’s a simple, affordable and effective moisturizer for everyone. Could it use a few protective antioxidants? Sure. But that would bump up the price.

Who it’s for: All skin types, especially oily skins.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Inkey List Omega Water Cream Moisturizer for $9.99 here.

SHOP SEPHORA FOR THE INKEY LIST OMEGA WATER CREAM MOISTURIZER