PRODUCT REVIEW: COCOKIND TURMERIC ILLUMINATING SOLUTION – BEST EXFOLIATING TONER FOR SENSITIVE SKIN, BEST TONER WITH MANDELIC ACID
COCOKIND | TURMERIC ILLUMINATING SOLUTION
Be sure to catch my most recent blog article on some of the best exfoliating toners titled, Seasonal Skincare Transitioning: Treatment Toners I Love That Make Me Excited For Cold Weather – Best Exfoliating Toner, Best Toner With Glycolic Acid. You can read it here.
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I love a good exfoliating toner when it’s well-formulated, non-irritating and a pleasure to use. Of course, I would expect nothing but the complete package from Cocokind!
The California-based, sustainable skincare brand consistency blows me away with some of the best clean face creams, hydrating masks, and antioxidant serums that I’ve ever tried. I have so many Cocokind faves, including the Daily SPF Mineral Sunscreen SPF 32 and Chia Bounce Mask, which I featured on my TikTok a few weeks ago. It’s such a treat for dry, dehydrated skin and was literally made for #selfcaresunday!
So I’ve been anticipating trying out Cocokind’s new Turmeric Illuminating Solution. I posted a glimpse of it on my IG page on #skincarmasaturday over the weekend. But I had been using it pretty regularly for about three weeks prior so my opinion of it had been well formed by then.
And I gotta say the Turmeric Illuminating Solution is so wonderful — and surprisingly gentle for an exfoliating toner with Glycolic Acid. Acid treatment toners usually scare the hell out of me. As is the case with so many people, overuse of harsh acids tends to sensitize my skin.
Rather than a harsh, potent complex of acids, the Cocokind Turmeric Illuminating Solution is powered by a gentle, yet effective complex of two AHA’s and a PHA at levels that make it effective for all skin types — and tolerance levels. By that I mean that many people can’t use harsher acid toners with higher levels of Glycolic Acid like 7-10% or more.
And many people overuse these kinds of toners by mistaking them for hydrating toners used after cleansing. So I appreciate when a smart brand like Cocokind offers something that gets it just right for everyone! Truthfully, your skin doesn’t need a lot of exfoliation. It does it quite well on its own in a 28-day cycle of what’s referred to as desquamation.
What Does Desquamation Mean and Why Does Desquamation Occur?
In short, desquamation is the fancy term for cell regeneration, cell death and exfoliation. More specifically, desquamation is the process by which the skin generates new skin cells and 28 days or so later, sheds them. Desquamation essentially encompasses the life cycle of a skin cell.
There’s an excellent, insightful piece on the Very Well Health website titled, Desquamation Process and the Outer Layer of Skin.
According to the health site Very Well Health:
Desquamation is the natural process in which skin cells are created, sloughed away, and replaced. The desquamation process happens in the outermost layer of the skin called the epidermis. The epidermis itself has four unique layers. Each of these layers plays a role in desquamation.
Skin Cells are Born
Sometimes called cell turnover, desquamation happens every second of the day, without you even noticing.
New skin cells are created in the stratum germinativum, which is the deepest layer of the epidermis. This layer is also called the basal layer.
Skin cells begin their life as a single layer of thick, column-shaped cells. These cells are responsible for creating every cell of your skin.
The cells in this layer divide. Half of them stay behind in the stratum germinativum. The other cells begin their migration to the skin's surface.
Cells Reach the Surface, Then Slough Off
The skin cells have reached their final destination — the stratum corneum. Once the cells arrive at this uppermost layer of the skin they are essentially dead.
The cells in the stratum corneum are very flat and tightly packed. These flat, dead cells continuously fall away as newer cells push their way to the surface. In this way, your skin is constantly renewing itself.
Where do all of those dead skin cells go? You might be surprised to know that most of the dust in your home is actually made up of dead skin cells.
The entire desquamation process, from cell birth to sloughing away, takes approximately 14 to 28 days.
So the Turmeric Illuminating Solution offers more gentle exfoliation; it’s not the kind of aggressive acid exfoliating treatment of more potent toners like The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution and the Ole Henriksen Glow2OH Dark Spot Toner with a 20% concentration of the most powerful AHA.
But if you want a brightening boost without sensitizing your skin, then a more gentle treatment toner is the way to go. Cocokind’s Turmeric Illuminating Solution contains 3% Glycolic Acid, 2% Mandelic Acid and 2% Gluconolactone, the most common polyhydroxy acid (PHA).
Unlike Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid is a gentle alpha hydroxy acid. In fact, it’s the most gentle of the AHA’s — at the exact opposite end of the scale as Glycolic. And Mandelic Acid seems to be getting a lot of attention lately. Perhaps it’s because brands are coming to understand that the wave of harsh Glycolic Acid treatments are sensitizing people’s skin and there’s now a market for gentler exfoliating treatments.
Or maybe it’s just another random marketing trend.
What Is Mandelic Acid and What Does Mandelic Acid Do for the Skin?
There’s a very succinct, well-sourced explanation of Mandelic Acid and its exceptional benefits for the skin, and particularly sensitive skin, from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team. Here’s what they have to say…
Mandelic Acid at a Glance
Also known as amygdalic acid
An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that can exfoliate skin
Generally more tolerable for those with sensitive skin
Must be in opaque packaging to maintain its effectiveness
Mandelic Acid Description
Mandelic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). There’s some research showing mandelic acid is an effective exfoliant, although it’s not as effective as glycolic acid due to its larger size (it’s twice as big as glycolic acid) and slower penetration into skin; however, these traits can also make mandelic acid more tolerable for those with sensitive skin. Unlike glycolic acid, mandelic acid is light-sensitive and must be packaged in an opaque container to remain effective. It may be synthetic or derived from almonds. Like other AHAs, mandelic acid is most effective in leave-on products that are within a 3-4 pH range.
A couple studies have shown that mandelic acid and salicylic acid worked well together in a higher-strength peel for use on darker skin tones struggling with discolorations, including post-acne marks. However, what we don’t know is how well mandelic acid would’ve worked on its own—it’s possible the results were more from salicylic acid than the combination of the two acids. Other research has shown mandelic acid can increase sebum (oil) production, which isn’t great for oily skin but would be a benefit for dry skin.
Mandelic Acid References
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, December 2020, Volume 83, Issue 6 and September 2018, pages 503-518
Dermatologic Surgery, March 2016, pages 384-391; and January 2009, pages 59-65
Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, June 2013, pages 140-145
In addition to its complex of exfoliating acids, as the name indicates, the Turmeric Illuminating Solution contains a healthy dose of the potent antioxidant and brightener, Turmeric Root Extract.
I’ve been using the Cocokind Turmeric Illuminating Solution twice a day for several days in a row and seen no irritation — just a fresh, reflective complexion. It’s all a result not only of the formula’s modest acid levels, but the inclusion of humectants and super-soothing Oat Kernel Extract — one of the best actives for calming skin and preventing irritation.
If you’re looking for an effective, gentle treatment toner, Cocokind’s Turmeric Illuminating Solution is a superb option.
What I like about it: The Cocokind Turmeric Illuminating Solution is a terrific exfoliating toner for all skin types, but especially skins susceptible to sensitization. With a more gentle cocktail of acids, it’s more tolerable by a broader range of skin types. I love its brightening effect and, of course, its clean formulation. It’s classic Cocokind. And for just $24, it’s super affordable for such a well-formulated product.
What I don’t like about it: I like everything about this stuff.
Who it’s for: All skin types, even sensitive and sensitized skins.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Cocokind Turmeric Illuminating Solution for $24 here.
The Ingredient List of the Cocokind Turmeric Illuminating Solution:
Water, Glycolic Acid, Gluconolactone1, Mandelic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Sodium Gluconate, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Silica, Calcium Gluconate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract.
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