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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

MY FW21 EMPTIES: NIOD MULTI-MOLECULAR HYALURONIC COMPLEX, ALGENIST ALGAE NIACINAMIDE MOISTURE VEIL, SYNERGIE SKIN VITAMIN B 13% NIACINAMIDE SERUM & MORE

MY FW21 EMPTIES: NIOD MULTI-MOLECULAR HYALURONIC COMPLEX, ALGENIST ALGAE NIACINAMIDE MOISTURE VEIL, SYNERGIE SKIN VITAMIN B 13% NIACINAMIDE SERUM & MORE

“When you are enthusiastic about what you do, you feel this positive energy. It's very simple.” -Paulo Coelho

I came across this quotation by one of my favorite authors over the weekend and it really struck me. It would have piqued my interest on any day, at any time; but the fact that I’d seen my energy healer the day before made it resonate all the more!

Throughout my struggle with daily migraines over the last three years, I was always fully aware that I needed to stay positive as much as I was able. It wasn’t easy and sometimes it was even more difficult than the migraine pain itself. But I kept pushing through it, holding off the darkness, with the faith that I would one day find light again, regain my balance and control of my mind.

It all paid off. As I sit here reflecting back on my journey, I see how long the road to my recovery has been, just how far I’ve come. And how I got through it by focussing on what I love most in my life: my cat, Orpheus, my friends and family and, of course, my writing.

I’m grateful for the journey. I know it was my path and what I gained, what I learned, pushed my soul toward real growth…


The skincare stuff starts here.

Writing is, of course, my passion. And writing about skincare is truly the icing on the cake. (Make it the cupcake!) Of the 40-50 blog articles I write over the course of a year, among the ones that are the most fun for me are the four articles on my product empties. Since I try hundreds of products a year, actually finishing one of them is telling.

I love reflecting back on my skincare journey to see which products wowed me the most and what kinds of skincare I was most focused on. In the summer, I’m all about lightweight sunscreens. In wintertime, I love a heavier replenishing face cream. And year-round, humectant serums are always a part of my daily skincare routines. I go through a lot of Hyaluronic Acid serums!

I last explored products I loved so much that I finished them in the early fall in a blog article titled, My Summer Empties 2021: The Inkey List Caffeine Eye Cream, Supergoop! Daily Dose Vitamin C + SPF 40 Sunscreen Serum and More. You can still catch the article here.

MY SUMMER EMPTIES: THE INKEY LIST CAFFEINE EYE CREAM, SUPERGOOP! DAILY DOSE SPF 40 SUNSCREEN AND MORE

My collection of My Summer Empties 2021 included some of my favorite skincare products over the entire year, including the Kat Burki Goji Essence — one of the best Lactic Acid toners I’ve ever come across. It instantly brightens the complexion, is exceptionally pro-skin health, and such a pleasure to use.

Also featured was Herbal Face Food’s The Serum I, perhaps most notable because the product went on to be named the 2021 Skincarma Product of the Year. With its antioxidant potency and seeming ability to reboot the complexion, it’s truly one of the most unique skincare products and continues to be a part of my regular skincare routine. You can catch my year-end review of it here.

The hybrid facial sunscreen Supergoop! Daily Dose Vitamin C + SPF 40 Sunscreen Serum PA+++ is a longtime favorite in my daily sunscreen repertoire — and a real go-to sunscreen in the summer. It has one of the coolest textures for a sunscreen and continues to be a fave that I look forward to using on warmer days.

If you haven’t experienced Daily Dose yet, you’re really missing out. Supergoop! literally has the best sunscreens! It’s so important to find a daily sunscreen that you love so much you would never skip out on using it — and Daily Dose is one of those products. Catch my review of it on the blog here.

PRODUCT REVIEW: SUPERGOOP! ULTRA DAILY DOSE VITAMIN C + SPF 40 SUNSCREEN SERUM PA+++

So I’m excited to share some of my latest skincare empties — four of the products I loved so much that I finished them in the last four months. By no means did I only finish four. I just selected four true standouts.

The collection this time around includes one of the best humectant serums, NIOD’s Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex. Its watery, supremely layerable texture is everything.

In this go-round, there are two Niacinamide serums, the Algenist Algae Niacinamide Moisture Veil and Synergie Skin’s Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum. Like a good Hyaluronic Acid serum, my daily AM and PM skincare routines are never without a great Niacinamide serum. Of course, my longtime favorite is the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster — the best anti-aging serum on Earth. But that’s not to say that I don’t try out others and that I don’t enjoy them enough to finish them!

Lastly, is the Indie Lee CoQ-10 Toner. I really loved this toner and regret that I haven’t tried anything else from the brand yet. I need to get on that!

So let’s take a look back at four of the products that I finished over the past several months, revisit what I said about them initially and if I’m feeling the #fomo


NIOD | Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex

What I said about it: My first introduction to NIOD was what I suspect to be the brand’s most popular product — the Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex. Referred to by the brand and its most ardent followers as MMHC2, Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex is one of the best Hyaluronic Acid serums I’ve come across.

Last week, I published my latest blog article on what I consider some of the best humectant serums titled, My Favorite Humectant Serums From Paula's Choice, The Inkey List, Ghost Democracy And More — which you can catch here. Truthfully, NIOD’s MMHC2 could easily have been included in the collection, but I was saving it for this week’s blog.

MMHC2 is the mother of all Hyaluronic Acid treatments! In my earlier piece on my favorite humectant serums, I discussed the most obvious difference between Hyaluronic Acid serums — the pricer ones are watery, the least expensive ones tend to be thicker and pulpier. That’s no coincidence. It’s a result of the quality of the Hyaluronic Acid itself, the particular form of the molecule used in the formula.

Low-molecular weight HA is a smaller molecule; high molecular weight HA is the larger. Low-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid is more expensive and better able to penetrate the skin barrier, which is constructed for the purpose of keeping everything out — whether good or bad — from bacteria, viruses and free radicals to beneficial skincare actives like Hyaluronic Acid.

MMHC2 is one of the most watery of Hyaluronic Acid treatments. It’s formulated with multiple forms of HA in what NIOD describes as, “15 forms of hyaluronic compounds, hyaluronic precursors and a hyaluronic support technology in a peptide-charged delivery system.” I said it was the mother of all HA serums and I meant it!


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


What Is Hyaluronic Acid for Skin and What Does Hyaluronic Acid Do in Skincare?

I never go without a humectant serum and you shouldn’t either. You need to do everything you can to keep your skin hydrated year-round. In the summer, you sweat the water out of your skin. In the winter, the dry, low-humidity air sucks it out for you.

Preventing trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL, is essential to skin health. Hyaluronic Acid serums run the gamut — from The Ordinary’s perfectly effective $7.50 Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum to the outrageously priced $300 Hyaluronic Serum from Dr. Barbara Sturm. (Please don’t even think of buying that. It’s a joke!)

I recently found an insightful, wonky article on Hyaluronic Acid titled, Why Science Says Hyaluronic Acid Is the Holy Grail to Wrinkle-Free, Youthful Hydration.

This bit on molecular weights stood out to me, in particular:

“The benefits of hyaluronic acid on the skin has to do with its molecular weight and concentration. In this case, size matters! The molecular weight refers to its mass, or how big the HA molecule is. This is measured in something called unified atomic mass units — daltons, or kDa for short.

HA between 50 to 1,000 kDa is the most beneficial for skin, with about 130 kDa being the best, according to the most recent human studies. Anything higher won't make too much of a difference. Anything lower might cause inflammation. How did we get this number? When you look at studies, you'll see a pattern, but one of the most thorough studies looked at HA with different molecular weights, including 50, 130, 300, 800, and 2,000 kDa.

After one month, they found that treatment with 130 kDa HA was the most effective, increasing skin elasticity by 20 percent. Both the 50 and 130 kDa groups had significant improvement in wrinkle-depth and skin roughness after 60 days. All the other molecular weights still improved elasticity and skin hydration, just less so. You can read more about this molecular weight analysis from the original breakdown here.”


According to the nerds at NIOD, MMHC2 is formulated with a “rare direct form of hyaluronic acid.” They go on in great detail, as they often do on the NIOD product pages, stating that, “while several sodium salt forms of hyaluronic acid are included in MMHC2, the formula also includes 1.0% direct hyaluronic acid which appears as "hyaluronic acid" in the ingredient listing. This inclusion is exceptionally rare for a broad range of formulation and commercial reasons. Direct hyaluronic acid offers pro-repair support far beyond basic water hydration that sodium hyaluronate offers, resulting in improvements to the elastic appearance and the general healthy look of skin.”

In addition to this direct form of Hyaluronic Acid, there are several distinct, natural humectant complexes derived from bio-yeast, tamarind, mushroom and locust beans.

The purpose of using multiple molecular weight formats is to deliver a broader, more extensive humectant effect at varying depths in the skin’s upper layers. This helps to more effectively defend skin against trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL.


What Is Trans-epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and What Causes Trans-epidermal Water Loss?

There’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? available here. In the piece, the author defines TEWL as follows:

“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).

While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.

Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”


BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUM, BEST PEPTIDE SERUM

The NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex also contains what the brand refers to as a “Hyaluronic Support System of Adaptogenic Water-Starved Clary Sage Flavonoids, Phenylethanoid Glycosides from Narrow Leaf Plantain and Dermal Amino Acids”.

What?!

This is the kind of imaginative science stuff that I love about NIOD! The complex is purported to enhance the efficacy of the multiple forms of Hyaluronic Acid in the formula to further prevent dehydration.

Maintaining proper hydration levels year-round is the key to preserving skin health and even more important during the colder winter months when the dry air around us sucks the water through our skin barrier like a magnet. I like to think of MMHC2 as a coat of armor for the skin.


What I think now: The NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex is one of my absolute favorite humectant serums and one of the best hydrating serums to fix dehydrated skin. It has a super watery texture that makes it a perfect layering treatment in any skincare routine. And with 15 Hyaluronic Acid compounds that more broadly hydrate the skin’s layers, it’s well worth $35 for 15 mL.

#fomo level: I have pretty much not been without MMHC2 and while I don’t use it every day, when I do run low, I usually stock up on it. There are frequent sales on Skinstore and Cult Beauty, where I often grab a bottle or two.

Who it’s for: All skin types.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex for $35 here.


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex:

Aqua (Water) solv, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract h, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Hyaluronic Acid sii|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate h, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate h, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate h, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate cci, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides h, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum h|vc, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract aox|h, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum emo|vc, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 cci, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract so|aox|amic, Salvia Sclarea Extract so, Arginine sii, Aspartic Acid sii, Glycine sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Valine sii, Isoleucine sii, Proline sii, Threonine sii, Histidine sii|h, Phenylalanine sii, Pca sii|h, Sodium Pca sii|h 0 0, Betaine h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside aox|so, Gallyl Glucoside aox|so, Algae Extract emo|h, Sodium Salicylate pres, Lecithin emo|emu, Polyglucuronic Acid h, Xanthan Gum vc, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Sclerotium Gum vc, Pullulan, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose vc, Propanediol solv|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Citric Acid buff, Magnesium Chloride vc, Silica vc, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Propyl Gallate aox|perf, Dehydroacetic Acid pres, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenoxyethanol pres
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


NEW VITAMIN C SERUMS I’M CRUSHING ON FROM WANDER BEAUTY, GLOSSIER, KAT BURKI AND MORE - BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS



Algenist | Algae Niacinamide Moisture Veil

What I said about it: I’ve been immersing myself in a few cool brands over the past several weeks, among them is bio-tech brand Algenist.

If you didn’t catch my YouTube video for #selfcaresunday yesterday, I amped up my complexion’s glow with Algenist’s Blue Algae Vitamin C Dark Spot Correcting Peel. You can check it out on my channel here.

It’s an effective face peel formulated with a trifecta of beneficial acids — AHA’s, BHA and PHA. Not too harsh, not too mild. Kinda just right. It’s got pure Vitamin C and, of course, the brand’s patented booster Alguronic Acid. Cool stuff!

The brand’s newest innovation is the Algae Niacinamide Moisture Veil — one of the best new Niacinamide serums for oily, blemish prone skin. While The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is popular with oily skin types, there’s no clinical evidence that zinc is actually beneficial for oily skin.

NIACINAMIDE IS THE GAME CHANGER YOU NEED TO DEFEND AGAINST SKIN DAMAGE AND MAINTAIN OPTIMAL SKIN HEALTH

Algenist’s new Niacinamide Moisture Veil is the first I’ve come across that’s formulated specifically to help regulate skin’s natural oil production over time — in ten days, in fact.

Algenist’s Algae Niacinamide Moisture Veil is infused with the brand’s proprietary Alguronic Acid as well as a “Sebum-Fighting Algae Concentrate” that’s proven to help minimize excess sebum on the skin surface to control shine.

There’s about a 5-7% concentration of Niacinamide in the formula in addition to multiple skin-nourishing algae extracts.


What Is Niacinamide and What Does Niacinamide Do for the Skin?

I found a comprehensive article on the form of Vitamin B3 written by the skin experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, titled simply, How Niacinamide Helps Skin. It doesn’t do it justice! They should have titled the article, Niacinamide is the Game Changer You Need to Defend Against Skin Damage and Maintain Optimal Skin Health.

From the piece….

How Niacinamide Helps Skin

Niacinamide is a skin care ingredient worthy of your attention and your skin will love you for using it. Among a handful of other amazing skin care ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C, niacinamide is a standout because of its versatility for almost any skin care concern and skin type.

As many of you know about us, but for those who don’t, the conclusions we make about any ingredient are always based on what the published research has shown to be true—and the research about niacinamide unanimously demonstrates how special it is. New research keeps showing it’s one of the most exciting skin care ingredients around.

What is Niacinamide?

Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface.

Niacinamide also reduces the impact of environmental damage because of its ability to improve skin’s barrier (its first line of defense), plus it also plays a role in helping skin to repair signs of past damage. Left unchecked, this type of daily assault makes skin appear older, dull, and less radiant.

Why You Should Use Niacinamide

As you might have gathered, we’re very impressed with all that niacinamide can do for skin when applied via skin care products like toners, serums, and highly concentrated leave-on treatments. Niacinamide is uniquely compatible with any of the products in your skin care routine, including those that contain retinol, peptides, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHA, vitamin C, and all types of antioxidants.

You can use multiple niacinamide-containing products in your routine, and it will still be non-sensitizing as this ingenious B vitamin is well tolerated by all skin types. It’s even suitable for use by those with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.

Other helpful benefits of niacinamide are that it helps renew and restore the surface of skin against moisture loss and dehydration by helping skin improve its natural production of skin-strengthening ceramides. When ceramides become depleted over time, skin is left vulnerable to all sorts of problems, from persistent patches of dry, flaky skin to increasingly becoming extra-sensitive.

If you struggle with dry skin, topical application of niacinamide has been shown to boost the hydrating ability of moisturizers so skin’s surface can better resist the moisture loss that leads to recurrent dry, tight, flaky skin. Niacinamide works brilliantly with common moisturizer ingredients like glycerin, non-fragrant plant oils, cholesterol, sodium PCA, and sodium hyaluronate.

How does niacinamide help pores? Great question, although the answer here isn’t certain. Simply put, research hasn’t come to a full understanding about how this B vitamin works its pore-reducing magic, but it does! It seems that niacinamide has a normalizing ability on the pore lining, and that this influence plays a role in keeping debris from getting backed up, which leads to clogs and rough, bumpy skin. As the clog forms and worsens, the pores stretch to compensate, and what you’ll see is enlarged pores. By helping things get back to normal, niacinamide use helps pores return to their normal size. Sun damage can cause pores to become stretched, too, leading to what some describe as "orange peel skin". Higher concentrations of niacinamide can help visibly tighten pores by shoring up skin’s supportive elements.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

AMPING UP THE BRIGHTENING WITH ALGENIST FOR SELFCARE SUNDAY

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


What’s most remarkable about the formula is its amazing velvety texture. It looks (and feels!) like liquid gold on the skin. Seriously, one of the coolest and most unique Niacinamide serums to launch in a while — at least since the Paula’s Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment.

If you manage oily or very oily skin, you might want to give the Algenist Algae Niacinamide Moisture Veil a try.


What I think now: The Algenist Algae Niacinamide Moisture Veil is such a unique and fun Niacinamide serum. I love, love, love applying it. If you have oily skin, or even acne-prone skin, this one is for you!

#fomo level: Absolutely, the #fomo is real. And as much as I love it, my bestie loves it even more. On the nights when he’s over and we do our PM skincare routines, Algenist’s Algae Niacinamide Moisture Veil is his favorite product — by far!

Who it’s for: All skin types, particularly oily and acne-prone skins.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Algenist Algae Niacinamide Moisture Veil for $65 here.


The Ingredient List of the Algenist Algae Niacinamide Moisture Veil:


The Best Niacinamide Serums and Treatments



Synergie Skin | Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum

What I said about it: I just discovered this cool clinical science brand from Down Under a few weeks ago. Hey, if I can’t get to Australia, Australia can come to me! Synergie Skin is a range of nerdy, high-potency products in brown glass pharmaceutical bottles with names like XCell B, TriDration B and ÜberZinc — one of the uber-coolest mineral sunscreens I’ve discovered over the past year.

Synergie Skin’s ÜberZinc will definitely be a part of my next sunscreen article, one I anticipate publishing in the fall, around October. (Stay tuned!)

Come to think of it, some of the best sunscreen innovations are coming out of Oceania. This past winter I reviewed one of those — the Skinnies Sungel SPF 30. Based in New Zealand, Skinnies’ waterless sunscreens are truly exceptional and among the best sunscreens for face in the world!

PRODUCT REVIEW: SKINNIES WATERLESS SUNGEL SPF 30 – THE BEST ANTI-AGING SKINCARE IS SUNSCREEN

With really well-formulated skincare that’s certainly pro-skin health, Synergie Skin seems to have nailed it. Nothing could intrigue me more than Synergie Skin’s Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum.

With my undying devotion for the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster, it’s a high bar. While I’m not saying I’m ready to give it up for the Synergie Skin Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum, it’s certainly a contender as one of the best Niacinamide serums I’ve come across. But it has its flaws, unlike Paula’s pitch perfect serum.

The brand’s Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum is a relatively uncomplicated formulation, with just about 15 ingredients; regrettably, the final five of which are drying alcohol, caramel color, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool — three fragrant components of sensitizing essential oils.

All of those are in negligible amounts in the formula, however, leaving a whole ton of goodness — starting with the 13% Niacinamide indicated in the product’s name. Thirteen percent is a solid level for delivering powerful antioxidant protection to the skin as well as the brightening and pore-clearing that Niacinamide is best known for.

But there’s more to the Synergie Skin Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum than that.

Ingredient number one is, of course, water. But, amusingly, it’s not just the plain old water you’d find in most water-based serums, including the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster. It’s “purified Australian rain water”! I don’t know what the benefits of that are, if there even are any, but it sure sounds fun.

BRANDS I'M INTO: SYNERGIE SKIN - CLEAN, CLINICAL, CRUELTY FREE SKINCARE FROM AUSTRALIA

More seriously are the inclusion of a veritable cocktail of pro-skin health actives, including a trio of moisturizers and hydrators — Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Glycerin and Sodium PCA. There’s also a handful of botanical extracts and even replenishing phospholipids — a type of fat composed of fatty acids, glycerol and phosphate. (Lecithin is a phospholipid.)

Aside from the exceptional level of Niacinamide, what intrigues me most about the formula is its phenomenal texture. It’s slightly oily, slightly water and perfectly layer-able, making it a pleasure to use. And I know that because I look forward to using it, the real indicator of a product’s appeal for me.

I’ve only experienced a handful of products from the brand and if Synergie Skin’s ÜberZinc and Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum are any indication of what the brand has to offer, count me in, Synergie Skin!


What I think now: The Synergie Skin Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum is one of my favorite Niacinamide serums. And Synergie Skin is one of my favorite brand discoveries of 2021. Their clean, clinical skincare is next level.

#fomo level: Since it’s one of my faves, I’m always stocking up on it before it runs out. It’s that good.

Who it’s for: All skin types.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Synergie Skin Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum for $85 here.


The Ingredient List of the Synergie Skin Vitamin B 13% Essential Niacinamide Serum:

Aqua (Purified Australian Rainwater), Niacinamide, Glycerin, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Pca, Polysorbate 80, Aroma (Natural), Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phospholipids, Pelargonium Capitatum (Rose Geranium) Leaf Extract, Alcohol (Grain Derived), Caramel (Natural Colour), Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

KEEPING MY SKIN HYDRATED WITH SYNERGIE SKIN’S HYDROLOCK!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE



Indie Lee | CoQ-10 Toner

What I said about it: I am obsessed with toners! All kinds of toners — fermented toners, acid toners, hydrating toners and the super convenient toning mists. It always makes me sad when I hear someone say they don’t use a toner or can’t be bothered using one. Honestly, the two most important steps in a skincare routine come at the very beginning: cleansing and toning.

Using a hydrating toner like the iconic Hada Labo Rohto Hadalabo Gokujun Hyaluronic Lotion Moist from J-Beauty is essential for locking hydration in the skin. And hydration is everything when it comes to skin health. In fact, hydration is inherently anti-aging. Hydrated skin is best able to function optimally.

PRODUCT REVIEW: ROHTO HADA LABO HYALURONIC ACID LOTION - CULT J-BEAUTY TONER FOR DEHYDRATED SKIN

In addition, properly hydrated skin can also more effectively absorb the skincare products during your routine. Even the best antioxidant serums and best anti-aging serums aren’t as effective on dry skin.

A great analogy is to think of two sponges — one wet, one dry. Now imagine soaking up water on the kitchen counter with each. The wet sponge will more quickly absorb the water than the dry sponge.

Why? It’s because water molecules attract one another like a magnet. The same goes for the application of skin care! Damp skin will draw in water-based products more quickly — and more deeply — than dry skin.

I only began to understand the importance of hydration when I left my work inside big beauty at Kiehl’s. Oddly, we never talked about the essential role of hydration in the health of the skin.

Long ago, I learned to use a toner the Japanese way, without cotton. Rather, I pore some of whatever toner I’m using into the palms of my hands and press it into my skin. In K-beauty, the 7-Skin Method is an effective means of deeply hydrating the skin.

When I was shopping the sale, one of the products I was most excited about was toners. I ended up buying three of them and the Indie Lee CoQ-10 Toner was among the bunch. It seemed like the perfect opportunity to not only grab a great, cleanly formulated hydrating toner, but to finally try Indie Lee for the first time.

I’ve long had my eye on Indie Lee and have only heard great things about the brand. It’s clean, natural, and seems to be quite pro-skin health!

Think of Indie Lee’s CoQ-10 Toner as one part antioxidant defense, one part re-hydration. It’s got one of the tightest INCI’s I’ve seen on a toner of any kind – with just 12 ingredients in all. The CoQ-10 Toner is super refreshing on the skin and because it’s a toning mist, you can just spray it right on, making application between skincare steps a cinch. Yes, I re-wet my skin in between applications of a serum and you should too!

Remember the analogy of the sponge.


What Is CoQ10 and What Does Q10 Do in Skincare?

Of course, the star active in the formula is, as the name avers, is C0Q10 or Coenzyme Q10 — a powerful antioxidant naturally found in the body.

What is it exactly and how does it work in skin care? From the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team: “Also known as ubiquinone, it is a vitamin-like, fat-soluble substance naturally present in the body. A handful of studies have shown that coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) may help improve the appearance of signs of aging. There is also research showing that environmental factors deplete the presence of CoQ10 in the skin. The latest research suggests that topical application of CoQ10 has antioxidant and skin-soothing effects.”

I found additional insights on Coenzyme Q10 in the body on the rather authoritative Mayo Clinic website:

Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is an antioxidant that your body produces naturally. Your cells use CoQ10 for growth and maintenance.

Levels of CoQ10 in your body decrease as you age. CoQ10levels have also been found to be lower in people with certain conditions, such as heart disease, and in those who take cholesterol-lowering drugs called statins.

CoQ10 is found in meat, fish and nuts. The amount of CoQ10found in these dietary sources, however, isn't enough to significantly increase CoQ10 levels in your body. CoQ10 dietary supplements are available as capsules, chewable tablets, liquid syrups, wafers and by IV. CoQ10 might help prevent or treat certain heart conditions, as well as migraine headaches.



In addition to Coenzyme Q10, there are a handful of botanical extracts that double as both skin soothers and antioxidants, including Aloe Barbadensis, Chamomile Extract and Cucumber Extract. Plus, Hyaluronic Acid locks water into the skin!

The only drawback to Indie Lee’s CoQ-10 Toner formula is the inclusion of Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil — aka orange essential oil. Fragrant plant oils can be sensitizing to the skin. As I’ve said in the past, fragrance isn’t skin care! The only saving grace is that it’s the ninth ingredient out of the twelve, meaning it’s at a relatively low level.

If you’re not seriously sensitive to fragrance in skincare products, the Indie Lee CoQ-10 Toner is an excellent option for all skin types.


What I think now: The Indie Lee CoQ-10 Toner is one part antioxidant defense, one part re-hydration and I love that about the formula. After all, all skins need hydration and antioxidants! And your skin can’t get enough of either. It’s a good, clean formula. And although it does contain a tiny amount of fragrance in the form of orange essential oil, it’s not enough to be an issue for most skins.

#fomo level: I’ve been out of it for several months now and the fact that I haven’t replaced it kind of says that while I love the formula, it’s not exceptional.

Who it’s for: All skin types, except very sensitive skins.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Indie Lee CoQ-10 Toner for $44 here.


That’s it, guys! I hope you enjoyed my look back at my FW21 product empties. I encourage you to look into each of them to enhance the pro-skin health benefits of your own daily skincare routine. Especially the two Niacinamide serums…

See you next week!

💟 Carmine @skincarma


The Ingredient List of the Indie Lee CoQ-10 Toner:


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