HYDRATING SERUMS I'M INTO FROM NATURIUM, YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE, PURITO AND MORE - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS, BEST HYDRATING SERUMS FOR FACE
This past week was quite cold here in NYC. Cold, damp and dreary with lots of overcast skies and cold rain, the worst kind. When the temps are hovering just above freezing, I’d really rather it just snow! At least fresh snow is pretty and doesn’t get you so wet.
There I was walking in the freezing rain to jury duty at the Brooklyn Superior Court House, about 30-minute walk. It was miserable.
Jury duty lasted all of three hours before I was sent home to return in a year. Let’s hope it’s snowing that day!
Cold wet rain takes me back, all the way back, to that time I rode my bike across Alaska. I know. It sounds as crazy for me to write that as it does for you to hear it. Me, on a Bianchi racing bike. For hundreds of miles. In freezing cold rain.
It was nothing I did on a whim, trust me. It was part of my role in the first copywriting gig of my career. I was working for a big fundraising event for charity called the AIDS Rides. The company I worked for created, organized and operated long distance cycling events to raise large sums of money for HIV/AIDS service organizations coast to coast.
While I had worked on dozens of the events over the course of my work with the company, I had never actually ridden in one of our events. And I thought the Alaska AIDS Ride should be the one. I had trained for months leading up to the ride and had raised a significant amount of money, more than $8,000 as I recall.
But nothing could prepare me for that first day’s ride. It was a cold, rainy morning in Fairbanks, Alaska, with temperatures in the mid-20s. How it was raining and not snowing is beyond me. Alas, we were soaked to our skin through our ride jerseys from the moment we set out on that 50-mile first day.
Racing through the bucolic Alaska countryside, helmet on, camelback hose keeping me hydrated, I had no protection from the elements, no protection from the cold, unforgiving rain. I made it all of 10 miles before I began to shudder, shaking violently on the bike. I could barely squeeze the brakes. Swerving side to side, I began to lose control of my bike.
I pulled over and sought immediate attention from the ride’s medical crew. Sure enough, I was experiencing hypothermia. Not exactly the start to the seven-day ride for charity I had imagined. But it was the only bad day. The rest of the ride was one of the most exhilarating and rewarding experiences of my life.
And life is like that, isn’t it. Really awful, exhausting days often precede really amazing, exhilarating ones....
The skincare stuff starts here.
A cold January day in New York City can feel oddly exhilarating. It didn’t used to be that way for me. I always loathed the cold growing up. And until very recently, a matter of three years ago, I dreaded winter. As I entered into what can best be described as male menopause, complete with migraines and hot flashes, I began to appreciate and even long for cold air.
Yet while the cold now numbs my head on a migraine day, it’s also quite dehydrating, which can quickly make a migraine more intense. So I do what I can to stay hydrated. That means lots and lots of water. However, drinking the recommended amount of water each day is not enough to prevent your skin from dehydrating — and to defend against the visible effects of dehydration on your face.
There’s a simple remedy for keeping your skin optimally hydrated on a cold, dry, low-humidity day: a well-formulated humectant serum. And I love a good humectant serum!
My most recent piece on humectants was in the middle of summer, when a hot July day can be just as dehydrating as a cold January day. The blog article was titled, New Hyaluronic Acid Serums I Love from Farmacy Beauty, Herbivore, Glossier and More.
NEW HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS I LOVE FROM FARMACY BEAUTY, HERBIVORE, GLOSSIER AND MORE
Among my favorites featured were Farmacy Beauty Filling Good Hyaluronic Acid Plumping Serum — a wonderfully hydrating blend of Honey Extract, Propolis Extract and Royal Jelly Extract. As I said, Farmacy Beauty’s Filling Good hydrating serum is full of intrigue. With its unique silky texture, delicate honey aroma and multi-molecular forms of Hyaluronic Acid, it’s one of the best humectant serums to fix dehydrated skin.
Another favorite humectant serum I featured in the article was the Herbivore Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum. It’s a slightly milky, silky serum loaded with rehydrating goodness for the skin. Like the brand’s Pink Cloud Jelly Cleanser, the Cloud Jelly serum is infused with Snow Mushroom — a sexy sounding hydrator believed to be a more effective humectant than Hyaluronic Acid itself. In addition to Snow Mushroom, there are several other humectants, including Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, and Rose Flower Water.
Psst…you can catch my review of Herbivore’s Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum on the blog here.
So a good humectant serum is essential for maintaining skin health on both a hot summer day and during the harsh cold months of winter. Among the most effective hydrators (or re-hydrators!) is a well-formulated Hyaluronic Acid serum.
While Hyaluronic Acid is far and away the most popular and most sought-after of humectants, it is by no means the only one. Humectant ingredients that are equally effective at preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and subsequent dehydration include: Beta Glucan, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica, Polyglutamic Acid, Glycerin, Aloe Vera, Snow Mushroom and even honey and common seaweed, or algae.
Seasonal Skincare Transitioning: The Best Products for Cold Weather
Throughout my FW21 series on seasonal skincare transitioning, I’ve talked about what I refer to as the Skincarma Lock & Block strategy. What I’m referring to are the two measures necessary for preventing trans-epidermal water loss and subsequent dehydration. They are locking water in the skin with humectants and blocking the escape of moisture through the skin barrier with occlusive products like heavier facial oils and creams.
The Skincarma “Lock and Block” Prevents Dehydration
To start, preventing dehydration in the first place requires drinking enough water. That differs for each of us based on our weight, the foods we eat, and the climate we live in. It’s even more important during colder periods.
A good rule is to drink one ounce of water each day for every pound of body weight. So, if you weigh 150 lbs., you’ll need to drink 150 ounces of water each and every day to keep your body and your skin optimally hydrated.
Then, employing skincare to treat and prevent dehydration requires what I refer to as a “lock and block” strategy.
It begins with a dedicated humectant serum applied to the skin in both your AM and PM routines that helps to lock water in. Follow with a moisturizer composed of a healthy balance of both humectants and oils to block and prevent the trans-epidermal water loss that can lead to dehydration.
SEASONAL SKINCARE: MOISTURIZERS THAT MAKE ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER - BEST FACE CREAMS FOR DRY SKIN
What Is Trans-Epidermal Water Loss and What Causes Trans Epidermal Water Loss?
For a deeper dive (no pun intended!) into trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL, there’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? It’s available to read here.
In the piece, the author explains TEWL as follows:
“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).
While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.
Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”
Maintaining proper hydration levels year-round is essential if skin is going to function at its peak. Healthy functioning skin is better able to defend against external aggressors like pollution, UV, and free radical attacks. And healthy skin is better fortified against aging. So while it may seem slick to say that a humectant serum that helps keep skin hydrated is an effective anti-aging product, it’s not really a stretch at all. It’s simple common sense.
With that, let’s take a look at a few new humectant serums for keeping skin optimally hydrated day after day — in both harsh heat and bone-chilling cold....
Youth To The People | Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum
I say it all the time, but I LOVE Youth to the People. YTTP is seriously one of the coolest skincare brands. Their products are clean, vegan and seriously fun to use.
YTTP has a cool, laid back vibe reminiscent of my days in Los Angeles. It makes complete sense as Youth To The People is LA born and bred. I’ve reviewed many of the cleanly formulated brand’s products — including the Youth to the People Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream and the Superfood Air-Whip Moisturizer with Hyaluronic Acid — honestly, one of the best face creams for oily skin and all skin types on a hot summer day.
But perhaps my favorite of the brand’s products is the new treatment toner — the Youth To The People Mandelic Acid + Superfood Unity Exfoliant. In classic Youth To The People fashion, the formula is a winner in my book — and one of the most gentle exfoliating toners with AHA’s, ideal for those with sensitive skin.
The Superfood Unity Exfoliant is a powerhouse treatment toner formulated with sensitive and sensitized skin in mind. The formula blends two gentle, effective exfoliating acids, the PHA Gluconolactone and the least aggressive of the alpha hydroxy acids, Mandelic Acid. I use it liberally without ever having to worry that things can go awry, that it will irritate my skin like a harsher Glycolic Acid toner often does.
PRODUCT REVIEW: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE MANDELIC ACID + SUPERFOOD UNITY EXFOLIANT – BEST TONER FOR OILY SKIN
“We believe in youth. The optimism in it and the courage to act to protect our future. We believe in being Good To The People. Our Giving arm is a foundry for people who care about people and the planet. Giving initiatives support non-profits and activists working to amplify diverse voices and increase inclusivity, build a more just world, and save the planet. Giving takes action. As the charitable arm of YTTP, Giving invests in shaping a better future for everyone.”
— Joe and Greg, co-founders
Throughout the fall and winter, Youth To The People’s new cleansing balm, Superberry Dream Cleansing Balm, has been a go-to. With its super rich, pampering texture and the drier air here in NYC, the Superberry Dream Cleansing Balm literally came at the perfect time.
YTTP always nails it and the Superberry Dream Cleansing Balm is no exception. In fact, it’s exceptional! With nourishing Sunflower, Moringa and Jojoba Seed Oils, YTTP describes it as “a flash-melting cleansing balm that rapidly dissolves long-wear makeup, water-resistant sunscreens, and oils while hydrating skin long after rinsing.”
PRODUCT REVIEW: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE SUPERBERRY DREAM CLEANSING BALM - BEST CLEANSER FOR DRY SKIN
So, naturally I’m excited (and honored!) to be among the first to try the new Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum. And, as with the Superberry Dream Cleansing Balm, it couldn’t come at a better time. January and February are the coldest, driest months of the year here and I’m in a constant battle to keep my skin hydrated.
And what a name. I feel like I’m a world away from any sort of cactus in a desert oasis. But I can fantasize!
The Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum is like a Hyaluronic Acid serum on steroids. YTTP describes it as “a potent, triple-peptide-infused, hyaluronic-acid serum that intensely hydrates and visibly plumps and firms to sustain bouncy, youthful skin.”
Indeed, the Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum is a humectant powerhouse with four Hyaluronic Acid molecules for a more evenly dispersed humectant benefit throughout the skin’s upper layers.
But, as the name indicates, it’s much more than a natural hydrating serum with Hyaluronic Acid. There are three peptides in the formula at surprisingly high concentrations. Ingredients six through eight are Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-28. Peptides aren’t cheap and you rarely see them listed high on an INCI.
Peptides are portions of amino acids, or proteins that are naturally occurring in the skin. And they are essential for strong, healthy skin. While there are dozens of peptides with varying benefits for the skin, the right ones can improve your skin’s resiliency and maintain a firm, youthful plumpness.
What are Peptides in Skincare and What Do Peptides Do for Skin?
Of course, there’s a superbly insightful article on the Paula’s Choice website from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team. Titled What Are Peptides and What Do They Do for Your Skin?, the article goes deep into everything from what peptides are to how they benefit the skin — and what makes them among the best anti-aging skincare ingredients.
Peptides are one of the most talked-about ingredients in the field of anti-ageing skincare. When applied to your skin, they demonstrate remarkable benefits, revitalising your skin and making it more resilient and stronger. But peptides do not possess magical properties, as some brands claim. The fact is that there is no single ingredient that will address all the signs of skin ageing - and peptides are no exception. Peptides are a great asset to your skin, but it’s best to be realistic in your expectations to avoid disappointment. Peptides have amazing benefits for skin but the results will never be the same as a cosmetic procedure.
What are Peptides?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin. These proteins are the foundations of your skin and are responsible for its texture, strength and resilience. Without peptides, our skin is less intact which can lead to a loss of firmness, the appearance of wrinkles, a change in texture and less ‘bounce’.
When applied topically to the skin, peptides act as little messengers, triggering skin cells to perform specific functions such as building collagen and elastin, encouraging skin to look and act younger.
Extensive scientific research has proven that peptides can support your skin on multiple levels, for example firming, soothing and hydrating the skin.
In addition to its complex of firming peptides and multiple forms of Hyaluronic Acid, the Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum formula contains a slew of botanical extracts that double as hydrators and antioxidants.
Among the most notable of its hydrating natural extracts are Watermelon Fruit Extract, Apple Fruit Extract, and Prickly Pear Cactus Extract — which, according to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team is not only a potent antioxidant, but “also contains polyunsaturated fatty acids and amino acids which deliver replenishing and hydrating benefits to skin.”
Youth To The People’s Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum has a lovely texture that’s slightly thicker than water; it’s not as pulpy as I expected. The serum literally absorbs instantly into the skin, soaked up within seconds. Of course, my skin is drier than at any other time of the year and it soaks up anything I apply to it!
Again, the Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum couldn’t have come at a better time.
What I like about it: The Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum is a superb vegan, natural formula and a humectant powerhouse with four molecular sizes of Hyaluronic Acid for a more evenly dispersed humectant benefit throughout the skin’s upper layers. It’s perfect for the dry, dehydrating winter cold.
What I don’t like about it: At $54 for one ounce, the Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum is not exactly affordable and, thus, out of reach of most skincare users, which bums me out because it’s so good for the skin.
Who it’s for: All skin types, even oily or acne-prone.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum for $54 here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE SUPERFOOD AIR-WHIP MOISTURIZER - BEST NATURAL FACE CREAM
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NEW SELFCARE TREATS FROM KAT BURKI + FARMACY BEAUTY!
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Naturium | Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%
Naturium is definitely one of my favorite brand discoveries of 2021. Haven’t tried it yet? Naturium is a clean, affordable (make that super affordable!) skincare brand with the kind of “single-note” serums that have been popularized by brands like The Ordinary, Good Molecules and The Inkey List.
If you want to know more about this curious little brand with some of the best hydrating serums and antioxidant vitamin serums for protecting skin, check out this deep-dive into Naturium on the Allure website titled, 9 Naturium Skin-Care Products Our Editors Can’t Get Enough of.
Here is an excerpt:
Because the options are endless, consumers are becoming more discerning, more educated, and as a result, more determined to find products that actually work (and won’t cost them their entire rent check). It makes sense, then, why scientifically-backed, highly-effective, yet affordable brands like Naturium (available at Target) are finding huge success among skin-care newbies and devotees alike.
“Over the last couple of years, we’ve seen the interest in easy-to-digest skin-care education and results-driven products increase on social media,” Susan Yara, co-founder of Naturium, tells Allure. “What seemed to be lacking from the market was a brand that offered the education and the results, paired with elegant, well-rounded formulas and packaging at an accessible price.”
Yara should know — she’s been a popular beauty content creator for years, reviewing hundreds of skin-care products on her YouTube channel and listening closely to what her viewers were looking for to complete their skin-care regimens. “That’s what we offer with Naturium. Everyone that buys from us knows our products will work well, feel great, and fulfill our mantra that skin-care is self-care.” Naturium’s advising board-certified dermatologist Dr. Alexis Stephens supports Yara’s claim. “I like that Naturium makes highly effective, beautifully formulated products feel more accessible to everyday consumers. They use ingredients that are proven to help even skin tone, decongest pores, and encourage healthier skin in general. There’s a product that works for everyone,” Stephens tells Allure.
PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM NIACINAMIDE SERUM 12% PLUS ZINC 2% - BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM OILY SKIN
Over the last several months, I’ve been exploring Naturium’s most popular, affordably priced serums. Not surprisingly, the Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2% has become a personal fave. With a solid 12% concentration of antioxidant Niacinamide, the Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2% has a silky, ever-so-slightly-sticky texture.
It makes sense since the formula pairs Niacinamide and Zinc — an ingredient with potential for regulating sebum in oily skin. It’s not off-putting and I really love the simple efficacy of the product. You can catch my review of it here.
Another of my Naturium go-to’s is the brand’s $20 Vitamin C Complex Serum — one of the best Vitamin C serums for the price. It’s a water-based Vitamin C serum powered by a duo of pure Ascorbic Acid and the Vitamin C derivative, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate.
Notably, the formula also contains a healthy dose of Glutathione, a powerful antioxidant naturally produced by the body. You can’t go wrong with the Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum. I invite you to discover it on the blog here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM VITAMIN C COMPLEX SERUM - BEST VITAMIN C SERUM, BEST BRIGHTENING SERUM
So I’ve been eager to try Naturium’s Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%. At just $16, this Hyaluronic Acid serum is on par with other democratically priced HA serums, including The Inkey List’s Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum at $7.99 and the iconic $7.50 Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum from The Ordinary.
Except, the Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5% is actually a better formula than those two wildly popular hydrating serums. Why? Because it’s formulated with multiple forms of HA at four different molecular weights. What that means is you get a broader, more effective humectant benefit through this skin’s uppermost layers.
What Is Hyaluronic Acid and What Does Hyaluronic Acid Do for the Skin?
Naturally occurring in the body, Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is a polysaccharide, or sugar, found in skin tissue. HA is essential for skin health and for keeping skin hydrated. The body’s store of the substance varies due to aging, climate, and other environmental factors.
One of HA’s most important roles in the skin is as a humectant, with the ability to lock onto water molecules to prevent trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL, and keep skin optimally hydrated and healthy. Over time, the skin’s levels of Hyaluronic Acid are depleted, leaving it more vulnerable to dehydration and resultant signs of aging.
I love this article on Hyaluronic Acid on the Healthline website titled, Why Science Says Hyaluronic Acid Is the Holy Grail to Wrinkle-Free, Youthful Hydration. It’s wonky and full of insights. Check this part out:
“The benefits of hyaluronic acid on the skin has to do with its molecular weight and concentration. In this case, size matters! The molecular weight refers to its mass, or how big the HA molecule is. This is measured in something called unified atomic mass units — daltons, or kDa for short.
HA between 50 to 1,000 kDa is the most beneficial for skin, with about 130 kDa being the best, according to the most recent human studies. Anything higher won't make too much of a difference. Anything lower might cause inflammation. How did we get this number? When you look at studies, you'll see a pattern, but one of the most thorough studies looked at HA with different molecular weights, including 50, 130, 300, 800, and 2,000 kDa.
After one month, they found that treatment with 130 kDa HA was the most effective, increasing skin elasticity by 20 percent. Both the 50 and 130 kDa groups had significant improvement in wrinkle-depth and skin roughness after 60 days. All the other molecular weights still improved elasticity and skin hydration, just less so. You can read more about this molecular weight analysis from the original breakdown here.”
In addition, unlike The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum, the Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5% contains more pro-skin health actives, something you couldn’t get at an ultra-low price point.
The formula actually contains both Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) and Vitamin C in the form of oil-soluble Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, THD Ascorbate is “a highly stable form of vitamin C that is considered an analogue of L-ascorbic acid. Enzymes within skin convert this form of vitamin C to pure vitamin C, ascorbic acid.”
The Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5% has a lightweight, slightly puppy texture that absorbs into the skin relatively quickly, making it easily layered before oil-based serums and heavier face creams and facial oils — essential for locking in moisture in the Skincarma Lock & Block.
What I like about it: At just $16, the Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5% is super affordable humectant serum with multiple molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid. I also love the addition of both Vitamin E and Vitamin C. It’s such a superb pro-skin health serum for the price.
What I don’t like about it: Honestly, there’s nothing I don’t like about it.
Who it’s for: All skin types, even oily or acne-prone.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5% for $16 here.
MY TOP VITAMIN C PICKS FW21: NEW VITAMIN C SERUMS I’M CRUSHING ON FROM ALGENIST, NATURIUM AND MORE
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HERBIVORE BOTANICALS' CLEAN FACIAL SKINCARE - BEST FACIAL OILS, SERUMS AND MORE!
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Purito | DermHA-3 Serum
Like so many, I was a superfan of Purito’s super popular Centella Green Level Safe Sun 50+ — discovered to have nothing close to the SPF level that was claimed right on the packaging. As it turned out, Centella Green Level Safe Sun 50+ actually delivered something around an SPF 19 protection — far below what I consider adequate sun protection on even a cloudy day.
Nearly two years have passed since the Purito sunscreen controversy burst out into the open. And, with the controversy behind it, Purito recently introduced its replacement of their iconic sunscreen, the Purito Daily Go-To Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++. The new Daily Go-To Sunscreen formula is a blend of chemical and mineral filters with an SPF 50+.
It’s a fantastic facial sunscreen and has become a personal favorite of mine. I made it my go-to sunscreen on a recent trip to Cancun, Mexico. If you’re curious, you can catch my review of Purito’s Daily Go-To Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ on the blog here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: PURITO DAILY GO-TO SUNSCREEN SPF 50+ PA++++ - BEST FACIAL SUNSCREEN
Many Purito products have made it to my daily skincare routines and I’ve had my eye on the Purito DermHA-3 Serum for a while now. I was super excited to finally get my hands on it several weeks ago and to include the humectant DermHA-3 Serum in my latest collection of hydrating serums ideal for dry, cold weather.
Like the Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%, the Purito DermHA-3 Serum is infused with a blend of multi-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acids, including Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate — the salt form of HA that’s more compatible with human skin. As I’ve said, a complex of low, medium and high molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid are more effective at hydrating the skin’s upper layers.
The Purito DermHA-3 Serum is, of course, much more than a straight up HA serum. Unlike The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum, which does little more than lock moisture in the skin, the Purito DermHA-3 Serum is infused with multiple skin soothers, humectants and even firming Copper Tripeptide-1. Copper peptides are hot in skincare lately. Perhaps the most popular (and well-formulated!) copper peptide serum is the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (CAIS3), which I’ve reviewed several times on the blog.
PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD COPPER AMINO ISOLATE SERUM 3 1:1 (CAIS3) – BEST ANTI-AGING SERUM FOR WRINKLES
Purito’s DermHA-3 Serum is such a complex formula and it’s almost a shame that it’s marketed as just a hydrating Hyaluronic Acid serum. Sure, I love the inclusion of the anti-aging copper peptides and its broad range of low, medium and high molecular Hyaluronic Acid.
But I also love the multiple skin-soothing actives in the formula, including an exceptionally high concentration of Panthenol. Panthenol, or Vitamin B5, is such and unsung hero skincare ingredient. It has multiple benefits for the skin, including hydrating, moisturizing and soothing redness and irritation.
What Is Panthenol and What Is Panthenol in Skincare?
Just because it’s not sexy doesn’t mean it’s not effective — or should be overlooked. Panthenol has a broad range of benefits for the skin. In addition to its moisture retention abilities, it can even help to calm redness and irritation.
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team,
Panthenol (sometimes referred to as pro-vitamin B5) is a popular humectant in personal care products due to its ability to attract and hold moisture. When topically applied, it converts to pantothenic acid, which is a naturally occurring substance within the body.
Studies show that 1% panthenol quickly increase skin’s hydration, while decreasing transepidermal water loss (the amount of water that evaporates through skin). The overall result is an improvement in the way skin feels and looks, including a more supple appearance.
Research also shows promise for panthenol’s ability to reduce sensitivity-induced redness in skin.
Topically applied panthenol in amounts between 1–5% has been reported to aid in healing and barrier repair.
In addition to the soothing Panthenol in the Purito DermHA-3 Serum formula, there are four components of the K-beauty favorite Centella Asiatica: Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid. Combined with multi-molecular Hyaluronic Acid, itself an effective skin soother, the DermHA-3 Serum is a dream come true for sensitive skin.
Purito DermHA-3 Serum has a super lightweight, watery texture that’s more reminiscent of a toner than a serum. It is literally instantly absorbed by the skin, making it a perfect layering treatment after cleansing and toning and before oil-based serums and moisturizers.
And at just about $21, it’s affordable and attainable to a broader range of skincare enthusiasts. If you struggle with sensitive skin, even oily skin, this one is for you.
What I like about it: The Purito DermHA-3 Serum is a fantastic soothing and hydrating serum with multi-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid for a more effective humectant effect. But what I love most about the formula is its broad range of proven skin soothers, including a high concentration of Panthenol and four components of Centella Asiatica. And at $21, it’s attainable to a broader range of skincare users.
What I don’t like about it: There’s nothing I don’t like about it. The only thing I would improve upon is to add more antioxidants into the formula and package it in an opaque bottle. But that would only increase the cost.
Who it’s for: All skin types, particularly sensitive skin.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Purito DermHA-3 Serum for $21.11 here.
Ghost Democracy | Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum
I’ve enjoyed so many products from clean, affordable Ghost Democracy over the last two years. I first reviewed the brand in a blog article about facial oils, Dry Skin and Three of The Best Facial Oils I Think You’d Love, Too! With just 14 ingredients, Ghost Democracy’s cleanly formulated Softglow Facial Oil has been a favorite facial oil for two winters now.
I declared Ghost Democracy my coolest skincare brand discovery of 2020 and followed up that initial review of the Softglow Facial Oil with a deep dive into the brand in an article titled, Brands I Love: Ghost Democracy Intriguingly Clean Skincare With A Twist. You can catch it on the blog here.
BRANDS I LOVE: GHOST DEMOCRACY INTRIGUINGLY CLEAN SKINCARE WITH A TWIST
If you’re unfamiliar with Ghost Democracy, it’s a democratically priced skincare brand — along with The Ordinary, The Inkey List and Good Molecules. Unlike the others though, Ghost Democracy’s formulas are all clean — and its mid-range pricing is a reflection of that.
Ghost Democracy formulas are held to what the brand describes as “a higher standard of clean” — that is, less chemicals, more actives, and accessibility for all. I view Ghost Democracy as perhaps the most affordable clean skincare available.
Another distinguishing feature of the brand’s products is the use of high concentrations of pro-skin health actives — and the fact that Ghost Democracy is 100% transparent about what those concentrations are. Two years ago, it wasn’t as common as it is today. It’s been rare for a brand to tip their hand, revealing the precise recipes for their formulas.
Characteristically, Ghost Democracy shares that its Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum is formulated with 2.1% Pure Hyaluronic Acid, a legit level of the hydrating humectant. Interestingly, there are only 12 ingredients in the entire Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum formula: Water, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid), Tilia Cordata (Linden) Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Glycerin, Phytic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, and Ethylhexylglycerin.
Did you see that second ingredient in the INCI? Niacinamide! This is why it’s so important to look closely at an ingredient list. You wouldn’t otherwise know that there was such a high concentration of brightening, skin-strengthening Niacinamide in Ghost Democray’s Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum. You can’t get enough Niacinamide in your skincare routine.
What is Niacinamide and What Does Niacinamide Do for the Skin?
I love this highly comprehensive article on Niacinamide, a form of Vitamin B3, written by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, Niacinamide Benefits: What Does Niacinamide Do for Skin? An excerpt from the article:
What is Niacinamide?
Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax or stretched out pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface.
Niacinamide also reduces the impact of environmental damage because of its ability to improve skin’s barrier (its first line of defense), plus it also plays a role in helping skin to repair signs of past damage. Left unchecked, this type of daily assault makes skin appear older, dull, and less radiant.
What Does Niacinamide Do for Your Skin?
Niacinamide is most famous for its ability to reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.Research hasn’t come to a full understanding about how this B vitamin works its pore-reducing magic, but it seems that niacinamide has a normalizing ability on the pore lining, and that this influence plays a role in keeping oil and debris from getting backed up, which leads to clogs and rough, bumpy skin.
As the clog forms and worsens, the pores stretch to compensate, and what you’ll see is enlarged pores. Routine usage of niacinamide helps pores return to their natural size. Sun damage can cause pores to become stretched, too, leading to what some describe as "orange peel skin". Higher concentrations of niacinamide can help visibly tighten pores by shoring up skin’s supportive elements and often dramatically improving orange peel texture.
Other benefits of niacinamide are that it helps renew and restore the surface of skin against moisture loss and dehydration. When ceramides become depleted over time, skin is left vulnerable to all sorts of problems, from persistent patches of dry, flaky skin to increasingly becoming extra-sensitive.
If you struggle with dry skin, topical application of niacinamide has been shown to boost the hydrating ability of moisturizers so skin’s surface can better resist the moisture loss that leads to recurrent dry, tight, flaky skin. Niacinamide works brilliantly with common moisturizer ingredients like glycerin, non-fragrant plant oils, cholesterol, sodium PCA, and sodium hyaluronate.
How does niacinamide help discolorations and uneven skin tone? Both concerns stem from excess melanin (skin pigment) showing on skin’s surface. Niacinamide in concentrations of 5% and greater works via several pathways to keep new discolorations from appearing. At the same time, it also helps reduce the appearance of existing discolorations, so your skin tone looks more even. Research has shown NIACINAMIDE AND TRANEXAMIC ACID work particularly well together, and as mentioned above, it can be used with other discoloration-reducing ingredients such as all forms of vitamin C, licorice, retinol, and bakuchiol.
With its 2.1% concentration of Hyaluronic Acid and 4.0% level of Niacinamide, the Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum will both hydrate and brighten while helping to flush out pores to keep skin healthy and clear. Curiously, there’s also 1.3% White Tea Leaf Extract — an intriguing antioxidant addition to the formula. More often, you see Green Tea Extract in skin care but white tea? Not so much!
Ghost Democracy shares this about their reasoning behind their inclusion of White Tea Leaf Extract: “One of the least processed tea extracts, white tea retains more of the plant’s antioxidants than black and green teas. High concentration of polyphenol and flavonoid content helps to reduce oxidative stress and protect skin.”
Now that’s good, clean skin care with a twist!
The Floodgate serum has a thicker, more pulpy texture that’s not the least bit sticky, which I found surprising. Oddly, it has a somewhat unappetizing odor to it which reminds me of the “hot dog water” smell that many people complain about over The Ordinary’s Marine Hyaluronics, one of my all-time favorite humectant serums.
What I like about it: As with so many skincare products, the Ghost Democracy Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum is much more than its name implies. With a 4% concentration of Niacinamide and super clean formula, it’s a skin-brightening, antioxidant powerhouse that’s supremely pro-skin health. It’s well worth $34.
What I don’t like about it: I do wish it were housed in an opaque glass bottle. Exposing its sensitive antioxidants to light will only diminish their potency over time. Boo!
Who it’s for: All skin types.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Ghost Democracy Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum for $34 here.
That’s it, guys! I hope this helps you to find your ideal humectant serum — and that you’re staying warm and hydrated wherever you are.
See you next week!
Carmine @skincarma
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The Ingredient List of the Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum:
sii|h 0 0, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem (Prickly Pear Cactus) Extract 
so, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 cci, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 cci, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-28, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate h, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate h, Synthetic Sapphire, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract aox, Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract h, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract h, Nephelium Lappaceum Peel (Rambutan) Extract, Sodium PCA sii|h 0 0, Glutathione, Malachite Extract aox, Citric Acid buff, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose surf|vc 0 1, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate chel, Polyglutamic Acid h, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Carbomer vc 0 1, Propanediol solv|h, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Hydroxyethylcellulose vc, Xanthan Gum vc, Phenoxyethanol pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Potassium Sorbate pres, Disodium Phosphate buff, Polysorbate 60 emu|surf, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Glyceryl Caprylate pres, Sodium Formate buff|pres, Sodium Glycolate buff, Sodium Phosphate buff, Benzoic Acid presThe Ingredient List of the Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%:
sii|h 0 0, Propanediol solv|h, Hyaluronic Acid sii|h, Sphingolipids emo, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid h, Honey so|h|amic, Magnolol aox|sb, Hexylene Glycol solv|emu|perf|surf 0-1 0-2, Kaempferol aox|emo, Phospholipids sii|emo, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate aox|sb, Tocopheryl Acetate aox 0 0, Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters emo|emu|surf, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate emu, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer vc, Sorbitan Palmate emo, Potassium Sorbate pres, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate pres, Xanthan Gum vc, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Citric Acid buff, Phenoxyethanol presThe Ingredient List of the Purito DermHA-3 Serum:
sii|h 0 0, 1,2-Hexanediol (Solvents) solv, Panthenol (Strengthens Skin Barrier) so|h 0 0, Glycerin (Humectant) sii|h 0 0, Glyceryl Glucoside (Moisturizing Agent) h, Caprylyl Glycol (Skin-Conditioning Agent) h|emo, Pentylene Glycol (Skin-Conditioning Agent) solv|h, Hydroxyethylcellulose (Viscosity Increasing Agents) vc, Allantoin (Skin-Conditioning Agent) so 0 0, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Skin Protectant) so|h, Disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent) chel, Malachite Extract (Skin-Conditioning Agents) aox, Copper Tripeptide-1(Skin Firming Agent) cci|so|aox, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant) h, Hydroxyacetophenone (Antioxidants) aox, Ethylhexylglycerin (Skin-Conditioning Agent) pres, Madecassoside (Strengthens Skin Barrier) aox|so, Asiaticoside (Skin-Conditioning Agent) aox|perf, Asiatic Acid (Skin-Conditioning Agent) , Madecassic Acid (Skin-Conditioning Agent) , Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate (Humectant) hThe Ingredient List of the Ghost Democracy Floodgate Hyaluronic Acid Serum:
cci|sb|aacne|h, Propanediol solv|h, Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid) sii|h 0 0, Tilia Cordata (Linden) Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract aox|so, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Phytic Acid chel, Xanthan Gum vc, Phenoxyethanol pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres
