SEASONAL SKINCARE TRANSITIONING: THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY AND NIOD THAT GET ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER!
Happy Slowvember!
I’m a long-time fan of both Deciem’s The Ordinary and NIOD brands.
Notably, democratically-priced The Ordinary made great skincare accessible to everyone, literally revolutionizing skin care.
The Ordinary was one of the first brands that offered a broad range of single-note products — that is, products focused on one primary active ingredient. In doing so, they met the curiosity of consumers to learn about ingredients and how they benefit their skin.
The Ordinary empowers us to weed through the chaos and confusion created by big beauty marketers and truly focus on skin’s unique needs. And to me, The Ordinary is about making optimal skin health possible for everyone.
I first began my not-so-ordinary journey with the brand about five years ago, just as The Ordinary was bursting onto the skincare scene. A few early favorites were the Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% serum, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder. In fact, that entirely basic pure Vitamin C powder was the first-ever Skincarma Product of the Year, in 2018!
THE SKINCARMA PRODUCT OF THE YEAR : THE ORDINARY 100% L-ASCORBIC ACID POWDER
And, over the years I’ve become somewhat of a superfan of Deciem’s high-science NIOD brand. With unique, potent skincare and wildy nerdy names, several of the brand’s products are regular staples in my pro-skin health regimen.
Among these is the brand’s intriguing Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist. Referred to more simply as SDSM2, it isn’t just some run-of-the-mill skincare product; and it’s much more than a hydrating toner. A the name indicates, SDSM2 is enriched with a substance called Superoxide Dismutase — a naturally occurring antioxidant found in the skin that’s the body’s most essential antioxidant to fend off cell damage.
According to the NIOD scientists, “Superoxide is the main reactive oxygen species in each cell and SOD is the body's natural way of out-competing the ongoing and very damaging effect of superoxide in cells. Arguably, SOD is the most important force against oxidation in the human body.”
PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE SACCHARIDE MIST (SDSM2)
During the month of November, which Deciem brilliantly refers to as Slowvember, the company is once again breaking the mold by discounting all of its skincare products by 23%.
The annual Slowvember sales event began two years as a way to combat the blatant consumerism of Black Friday. And I’m so excited to see the company now making a tradition of it! Three years makes it a tradition, right?
Deciem’s Slowvember is here again!
Welcome to Slowvember. A journey into a new, gentle world, after an isolated year. For the month of November, we will focus on bringing soothing experiences, creating moments of calm, and allowing space for the appreciation of small things. We hope this comfortable environment will encourage deliberate, considered purchases, allowing you to truly benefit from our 23% saving.
BYE-BYE BLACK FRIDAY.
On the day formerly known as Black Friday, the DECIEM website and stores will pause. We will use the time to focus on connections over transactions, sharing experiences and events such as live music and workshops that encourage a comfortable pace, and celebrating the beauty in slowing down.
DOING THE RIGHT THING.
We believe that beauty is between us and the world around us. That’s why we’re continuously working to have a positive impact on people, animals, and the planet. You can read more about how we respect small and big things here.
FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER
GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!
CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT
Last year, I celebrated Slowvember with a feature on oily skin and The Ordinary’s curated assortment of solutions for oily skin types — The Balance Set. The brand had just introduced this first complete collection of skin-health basics. The Balance Set contains four daily skincare essentials for promoting and maintaining optimal skin health — and all for $29. Psst…during Slowvember, The Balance Set is just $23.33!
THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – SOME OF THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY
What’s in The Ordinary’s “The Balance Set”?
Well, The Balance Set includes two of my all-time faves from The Ordinary — the pore-clearing Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the ooey-gooey skin-licious Squalane Cleanser, one of the best cleansers for dry skin. Come to think of it, with the texture of a cleansing balm, it’s a perfectly legitimate cleanser for all skin types — including oily skin, combination skin and especially sensitive skin.
Rounding out the collection are the super-messy-but-worth-it Salicylic Acid 2% Masque and The Ordinary’s only conventional cream moisturizer, Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA.
The Balance Set is the perfect starter kit for those wanting to discover what The Ordinary is all about. And, it’s perfect, too, for travel or for trying something new at an even more affordable price. $23.33 for a complete skincare regimen is a steal!
This year, the brand offers three additional sets, among them is The Daily Set — a trio of bestsellers that includes Squalane Cleanser, the super popular Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA.
You can check out all four sets here.
For Slowvember 2021, I thought it would be cool to feature a few of my favorites from both The Ordinary and NIOD — as part of my “seasonal skincare transitioning” articles, which I kicked off a few weeks ago with a two-part series titled, Moisturizers I Love That Make Me Excited For Cold Weather.
SEASONAL SKINCARE: MOISTURIZERS I LOVE THAT MAKE ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER
This year’s Slowvember picks include two products from The Ordinary — the Squalane Cleanser and the 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane, a personal fave dry facial oil.
From NIOD, I featured three of my favorites. The brand’s Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2) is one of the best Hyaluronic Acid serums I’ve ever come across. I’ve probably been through two dozen bottles of it over the years!
Also in the mix is one of the most unusual products in the NIOD catalogue, the brand’s Hydration Vaccine (HV). It’s weird, but once you understand it, you appreciate it. And rounding out this year’s Slowvember picks is NIOD’s wildly intriguing, peptide-powered mask-serum hybrid, Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1 % (CAIL).
Let’s take a look at my Slowvember picks from The Ordinary and NIOD that hydrate, moisturizer and plump my skin — and actually get me excited for colder weather…
The Ordinary | Squalane Cleanser
I can’t say enough about The Ordinary’s skin-licious Squalane Cleanser — the one and only facial cleanser that the brand offers to this day. Not only is it dirt cheap (no pun intended!), but it’s a phenomenal cleanser that gets the job done.
To start, the Squalane Cleanser is just $7.90 for a 1.7 oz. / 50ml tube. (And just $6.08 during Slowvember!) The size is relatively small for a facial cleanser and Deciem took some slack over it when it first launched. Thinking back on it, I recall that my first tube lasted me about three weeks. Of course I was so into it I used it twice a day and used it up pretty damn fast.
Since then, The Ordinary has tripled the size of its cleansing oil-cleansing balm hybrid. Even with the jumbo tube, Deciem managed to keep the cost of the Squalane Cleanser below $20 — at just $19.90 or $15.32 for Slowvember.
The Ordinary’s Squalane Cleanser is aptly named because its star, the first ingredient is Squalane — the super replenishing and emollient non-fragrant plant oil found in olives. Squalane also happens to be found in human skin, meaning it’s bio-compatible — the skin already recognizes it. And skin loves ingredients it already knows.
What Is Squalane and What Does Squalane Do for the Skin?
There’s an excellent article crafted by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, What is Squalane Oil and How Does it Benefit Skin? The piece delves into what makes Squalane unique — and why it’s so uniquely beneficial to the skin.
What is Squalane Oil?
Squalane oil is an emollient, a type of ingredient that works very much like skin’s own oil (sebum) to prevent moisture loss. Chemically, it’s a hydrocarbon, a group of ingredients made of only hydrogen and carbon. Common skin-friendly hydrocarbons for skin include petrolatum and mineral oil; squalane is the primary one from the plant world, so it’s a good alternative if you want to avoid petrochemicals.
A unique aspect of squalane is that it’s a modified form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum (1, 2). This fact makes squalane an ingredient skin instantly recognizes and knows how to use, but there’s more to the story than simply being an emollient.
Some people wonder if squalane is a vegan ingredient; traditionally, the squalene from which it’s created was derived from shark liver oil. Today, the majority of skin care brands using squalane are choosing a plant-derived, sustainable source. It occurs naturally in olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils (1, 3). Paula’s Choice uses olive-derived vegan squalane. It can also be produced via biotechnology from the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisae, where it’s often referred to as sugar derived.
If you’re curious, you can read the entire piece here.
Deciem says that, “the formula incorporates Squalane, alongside other lipophilic esters that are gentle, moisturizing, efficient in dissolving makeup and facial impurities and increasing the spreadability of the product.” I couldn’t have described it any better.
The Squalane Cleanser formula functions much like a cleansing balm or cleansing oil. You simply massage a small amount onto dry skin for a truly ritualistic cleansing experience. Its thick, rich texture emulsifies with warm water to remove grime, sunscreen and makeup, if worn. It feels so effective that I often don’t bother to double cleanse after it, feeling that it’s done the job perfectly well.
Grab a tube of Squalane Cleanser during the Slowvember sale. It’s simply a no-brainer for the price.
SHOP THE BLOG: For the month of November only, purchase The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser for just $6.08 (reg. $7.90) here.
FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER
GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!
CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
THE ORDINARY BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
The Ordinary | 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane
Nobody does Squalane like The Ordinary. The chemists at Deciem use it in multiple products including, of course the Squalane Cleanser — one of the best facial cleansers for dry skin and all skin types in the cold.
In fact, Squalane is one of my favorite non-fragrant plant oils, too. I love its rich, emollient texture, making it ideal for treating dry or very dry skin. What makes Squalane such a remarkably effective, replenishing oil is the fact that it’s bio-compatible; the skin recognizes it as a friendly substance, allowing it to work to its full potential. Remember, the skin barrier’s role is to keep out foreign substances. Squalane is an ally.
IMO, Squalane Oil is one of the better plant oils — along with Argan Oil, Almond Oil and Jojoba Oil — with excellent moisturizing and replenishing benefits for the skin.
Classified as one of the “best” ingredients for the skin by Paula Begoun and her team of researchers, Squalane is “the saturated portion of emollient ingredient squalene, which is a natural component of human skin sebum (oil). It is a wonderfully moisturizing ingredient as well as being a source of replenishing fatty acids and antioxidants.”
The one drawback to Squalane is that it can feel too rich, too heavy on the skin — and isn’t an ideal oil for oilier skin types, or on warmer days. I wouldn’t be caught dead applying just about any Squalane-rich facial oil in July. Which is why I love The Ordinary’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane!
“Hemi-Squalane” is similar to Squalane but with a lower molecular weight so the oil is not as heavy or greasy on the skin. In fact, it’s much lighter than standard Squalane with a consistency that’s barely thicker that water.
The brand’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane is what’s termed a “dry oil,” meaning it doesn’t leave a greasy feel and is absorbed almost immediately by the skin.
What Is a Dry Oil and What Is the Difference between Oil and Dry Oil?
In terms of texture, think of a dry oil as somewhere between an oily serum and a conventional facial oil. There’s an excellent piece on the Healthline website about dry oils titled, What Is a Dry Oil?
Here is an excerpt…
When you first hear the term “dry oil,” you might picture an oil that’s been boiled down to a powder. But it actually doesn’t refer to the oil’s texture. Instead, it describes the way the oil acts when it comes into contact with your skin.
Any oil that your skin absorbs quickly can be referred to as a dry oil. Oils that leave a residue on your skin, on the other hand, are often called wet oils.
Most dry oils are made from vegetables, herbs, or seeds that contain polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic acid.
They’re typically used as lightweight moisturizers for your hair, skin, or nails. Some common types of dry oils include:
In this article, we’ll dive into the potential benefits of these oils and look at situations when using them might be a better choice than using a wet oil.
What are the benefits of using a dry oil?
Dry oils offer the same moisturizing benefits as wet oils, without leaving a sticky residue on your skin or hair. Many people prefer dry oils because they absorb into your skin within seconds of application.
Some potential benefits of a dry oil include:
Moisturizes skin. Most dry oils, such as sunflower and safflower, contain linoleic acid. This fatty acid may keep your skin moisturized by helping it maintain its water permeability barrier.
Increases collagen production. A 2013 study performed on rats found that applying avocado oil to skin may increase the production of collagen (collagen synthesis) and decrease inflammation.
Improves dry or cracked skin. A 2011 studyTrusted Source shows that applying avocado oil is an excellent way to moisturize dry, damaged, or chapped skin.
Helps fight signs of aging. Research on rats suggests that sesame oil’s high number of antioxidants might help reduce oxidative stress of the skin. In theory, this could help protect your skin from premature aging.
Reduces sun damage. Rosehip oil contains large amounts of antioxidants that may protect your skin from damage caused by the sun’s ultraviolet rays.
Promote skin barrier repair. Research has found that the linoleic acid in sunflower oil may help repair the skin barrier and maintain the skin’s integrity.
Helps manage eczema. The moisturizing properties of dry oils might help manage dry and itchy skin caused by eczema.
PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY CAFFEINE SOLUTION 5% + EGCG – THE BEST EYE CREAM FOR PUFFINESS
In classic Ordinary fashion, the brand’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane literally contains just a single ingredient — C13-16 Isoparaffin, or Hemi-Squalane.
It’s defined by Deciem as a “non-polar hydrocarbon that is produced from the fermentation of sugar-based feedstock” — such as sugar cane and sugar beets. And, you know I love a good fermented active!
The Hemi-Squalane facial oil is one of the best face oils for dry skin. It’s superbly spreadable on the skin, leaves no oily film, and is even an excellent treatment for frizzy hair.
SHOP THE BLOG: For the month of November only, purchase The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane for $3.04 (reg. $3.95) here.
FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER
GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!
CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT
NIOD | Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex
My first experience with NIOD was what I suspect to be the brand’s most popular product — the Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex. Referred to by NIOD and its most ardent followers (me among them!) as MMHC2, Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex is one of the best Hyaluronic Acid serums I’ve come across. Over the years, I’ve likely emptied two dozen bottles of MMHC2.
Earlier this year, I published a blog article on what I consider some of the best humectant serums titled, My Favorite Humectant Serums From Paula's Choice, The Inkey List, Ghost Democracy And More — which you can catch here. Truthfully, NIOD’s MMHC2 should have been included in that collection, but I was saving it for a special deep-dive into the brand titled, Brands I Love: NIOD High-Science Skincare - Best Hyaluronic Acid Serum, Best Peptide Serum. Catch it here.
BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUM, BEST PEPTIDE SERUM
MMHC2 is the mother of all Hyaluronic Acid treatments! In my piece on my favorite humectant serums, I discussed the most obvious difference between Hyaluronic Acid serums — the pricier ones are watery, the less expensive ones tend to be thicker and pulpier. That’s no coincidence. It’s a result of the quality of the Hyaluronic Acid itself, the particular form of the molecule used in the formula.
Low molecular weight HA is a smaller molecule; high molecular weight HA is the larger. The low molecular weight form of Hyaluronic Acid is more expensive and better able to penetrate the skin barrier, which is constructed for the purpose of keeping everything out (whether good or bad!) — from bacteria, viruses and free radicals to beneficial skincare actives like Hyaluronic Acid.
MMHC2 is one of the most watery of Hyaluronic Acid treatments. It’s nearly as thin and light as water itself. MMHC2 is formulated with multiple forms of Hyaluronic Acid in what NIOD describes as, “15 forms of hyaluronic compounds, hyaluronic precursors and a hyaluronic support technology in a peptide-charged delivery system.”
I said it was the mother of all Hyaluronic Acid serums and I meant it!
What Is Hyaluronic Acid and What Does Hyaluronic Acid Do to Your Face?
Hyaluronic Acid is one of the most Googled ingredients in skincare. The popular humectant is found in so many skincare products that it’s become a virtual skincare staple. But what is Hyaluronic Acid and what does it actually do to promote healthy skin?
I found an excellent article about Hyaluronic Acid on the Healthline website titled, Why Science Says Hyaluronic Acid Is the Holy Grail to Wrinkle-Free, Youthful Hydration.
This is what intrigued me most:
“The benefits of hyaluronic acid on the skin has to do with its molecular weight and concentration. In this case, size matters! The molecular weight refers to its mass, or how big the HA molecule is. This is measured in something called unified atomic mass units — daltons, or kDa for short.
HA between 50 to 1,000 kDa is the most beneficial for skin, with about 130 kDa being the best, according to the most recent human studies. Anything higher won't make too much of a difference. Anything lower might cause inflammation. How did we get this number? When you look at studies, you'll see a pattern, but one of the most thorough studies looked at HA with different molecular weights, including 50, 130, 300, 800, and 2,000 kDa.
After one month, they found that treatment with 130 kDa HA was the most effective, increasing skin elasticity by 20 percent. Both the 50 and 130 kDa groups had significant improvement in wrinkle-depth and skin roughness after 60 days. All the other molecular weights still improved elasticity and skin hydration, just less so. You can read more about this molecular weight analysis from the original breakdown here.”
According to the nerds at NIOD, MMHC2 is formulated with a “rare direct form of hyaluronic acid.” They go on in great detail, as they often do on the NIOD product pages, stating that, “while several sodium salt forms of hyaluronic acid are included in MMHC2, the formula also includes 1.0% direct hyaluronic acid which appears as "hyaluronic acid" in the ingredient listing. This inclusion is exceptionally rare for a broad range of formulation and commercial reasons. Direct hyaluronic acid offers pro-repair support far beyond basic water hydration that sodium hyaluronate offers, resulting in improvements to the elastic appearance and the general healthy look of skin.”
In addition to this direct form of Hyaluronic Acid, there are several distinct, natural humectant complexes derived from bio-yeast, tamarind, mushroom and locust beans. It sounds crazy, but it’s all seriously pro-skin health.
The purpose of using multiple molecular weight formats is to deliver a broader, more extensive humectant effect at varying depths in the skin’s upper layers. This helps to even out skin’s hydration levels and more effectively defend skin against dehydration resulting from trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL.
What Is Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and How Do I Stop Transepidermal Water Loss?
There’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? available here. In the piece, the author describes TEWL as follows:
“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).
While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.
Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”
FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER
GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!
CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT
The NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex also contains what the brand refers to as a “Hyaluronic Support System of Adaptogenic Water-Starved Clary Sage Flavonoids, Phenylethanoid Glycosides from Narrow Leaf Plantain and Dermal Amino Acids”.
What?!
This is the kind of imaginative science stuff that I love about NIOD! The complex is purported to enhance the efficacy of the multiple forms of Hyaluronic Acid in the formula to further prevent dehydration.
Maintaining proper hydration levels year-round is the key to preserving skin health and even more important during the colder winter months when the dry air around us sucks the water (and life!) through our skin barrier like a magnet. I like to think of MMHC2 as a coat of armor for the skin.
So, you see NIOD isn’t just offering a standard Hyaluronic Acid acid serum. If you want that, you can get it from sister brand The Ordinary and their popular Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 for $6.80 — or $5.24 during Slowvember.
SHOP THE BLOG: For the month of November only, purchase the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex for $26.95 (reg. $35) here.
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
HAPPY SELFCARE SUNDAY! DETOXING WITH NIOD’S FLAVANONE MUD – ONE OF THE BEST CLAY MASKS EVERRRRR!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
NIOD | Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1%
If you’re a fan of NIOD, you know the brand doesn’t introduce products often. As I’ve said, I look to NIOD for more intriguing, hard-science products like the brand’s copper peptide-powered Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1, or CAIS2.
The cool, electric blue two-step CAIS2 serum you mix yourself makes me feel like I’m back in my high school chemistry class paired up with my prom date, Carla Pia Mills (I have to find those pictures!).
Psst…the brand recently introduced a pre-mixed version which, while not as fun to use, is equally effective. Check out the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (CAIS3) here.
So when NIOD came out with their new copper peptide moisture treatment, Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% (CAIL), I was intrigued from day one.
CAIL was NIOD’s only new product introduction of the last year. And the stuff, as expected, is just so weird.
The Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% is tough to characterize — classic NIOD. It’s formulated for evening use and has a thick gooey, glue-like texture that feels like it should be used alone. It’s pretty impossible to layer.
Deciem says the CAIL formula is a “pro-collagen, pro-lipid, pro-fat formula [that] branches from the concept of NIOD’s multi-award-winning Copper Amino Isolate Serum, with the additional benefits of building and enhancing skin barrier function, elasticity and integrity via lipophilic pathways.”
You know I was like, okay where am I, on the Starship Enterprise getting a facial on the holo-deck? Lipophilic pathways don’t seem like they should be blocked by anything.
What Are Copper Peptides and What Are Peptides in Skincare?
Peptides are quite fascinating things. And I think most people, even die-hard skincare users, would have a hard time explaining what peptides are and what role they play in the skin. I found an insightful piece on peptides, and specifically copper peptides, on the Byrdie website titled, Copper Peptides Are Like Nature's Botox, Here's How to Use Them.
Over the past few years, we've noticed a major trend gaining ground within the beauty industry and among skincare enthusiasts like ourselves: From 24 karat gold–infused facial oils to diamond dust–encrusted setting powders to colloidal silver eye masks, metallics are taking over.
And most recently, copper—specifically copper peptides—has repeatedly caught our eye as we peruse the ingredient lists of our favorite serums. And apparently, we aren't alone. We spoke to experts Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD, founder of Mudgil Dermatology in NYC; Joanna Vargas, celebrity facialist and founder of Joanna Vargas Salons and Skin Care; Marie Hayag, MD, Board Certified Dermatologist and Founder of 5th Avenue Aesthetics; and Nancy Pellegrino, NP and co-founder of THE ROUTE.
“Copper peptides are well known in the skincare world with decades of data as a skin restoring ingredient causing skin improvement including skin firmness, smoothness, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, by promoting collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycan (think HAs) and improved antioxidant activity,” says Pellegrino. They're increasingly popular—for instance, in just one month, ‘copper peptides serums’ was searched more than 1000 times on Google. And considering the acclaimed benefits of this particular kind of peptide (like the collagen-increasing and wrinkle-reducing), we're not all that surprised by the apparent fascination.
The Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% is a weirdly cool treatment that really is best used alone as the last and only step of your skincare routine. I’ve certainly had my share of nights where I don’t feel like doing anything, but don’t want to wake up looking like I did nothing! CAIL is the perfect skincare cheat. Wash your face, apply a hydrating toner, slop on some CAIL — and go to bed!
In addition to the skin-plumping and fortifying copper peptides, there’s a significant level of plant-derived Squalane in the CAIL formula at ingredient number one. It has this remarkable occlusive benefit to it that really does keep skin moisturized throughout the night. (More on occlusion below.)
I have to say I was, and remain, befuddled by Deciem’s advice that CAIL should be applied before Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex or, I would assume, your humectant serum. So, I DM’d Deciem directly. Apparently it has to do with the molecular sizes of the formula’s ingredients. I was totally trippin’ on this for weeks then realized some things are better left alone.
So, I use CAIL alone and get my zzz’s…
SHOP THE BLOG: For the month of November only, purchase the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% for $69.30 (reg. $90) here.
FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER
GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!
CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT
NIOD | Hydration Vaccine
Not so long ago, Hydration Vaccine from Deciem’s NIOD brand upturned how I think about moisturizing and hydrating my skin. For years in skincare marketing at Kiehl’s I thought of moisture and hydration as essentially the same thing. They are not. And understanding their differences goes a long way toward advancing the health of your skin.
NIOD’s Hydration Vaccine relies on the concept of preventing loss of water and moisture in skin, referred to as trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL. Again, according to the International Journal of Pharmaceutics,
“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).
While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.
I think of Hydration Vaccine as a skin sealant. By sealing and holding water in the skin, you keep your skin hydrated longer; and as a consequence, you prevent dehydration and maintain the health of your skin at a higher level.
A good hydrating toner will, of course, hydrate your skin, but even the best hydrating toners cannot prevent dehydration — particularly during the low-humidity months of the year. One of my favorite toners is NIOD’s Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist (SDSM2). You can catch my product review of SDSM2 here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE SACCHARIDE MIST (SDSM2) - BEST HYDRATING TONER
You know what NIOD’s Hydration Vaccine reminds me of? A sleeping mask! While it's directed by Deciem for use as part of both an AM and PM skincare regimen, Hydration Vaccine functions exactly like an overnight sleeping mask is intended to work. That is, it relies on occlusive technology to seal your skin and prevent loss of water and moisture.
A few years back, you may have noticed this whole new category of skincare products coming into play that were being marketed as “sleeping masks” or “overnight masks”. For a while, it looked like just another trendy marketing gimmick. As they began to proliferate, retailers like Sephora made a big push into the category and suddenly I had sleeping masks in my nightly routine in fall and winter.
I didn’t quite understand their purpose at first, then it hit me. Occlusion! Last winter, a skincare trend called slugging really took off. Again, as with sleeping masks, slugging requires occlusive products that lock moisture in the skin. (If you’re curious, check out my article on slugging here.)
MY #SLUGGING ESSENTIALS: SKINFIX 911 OINTMENT AND SKINNIES WATERLESS SUNGEL SPF 30 - BEST SLUGGING CREAM
What Does Occlusive Mean and Are Occlusives Bad for Skin?
Occlusive? What the heck does that even mean? Well, “to occlude” means to close, plug, block — as in the passage or flow of something. It comes from the Latin “occlūdere : to shut up, close up, equivalent to oc- oc- + -clūdere, combining form of claudere to close.”
So, skincare that is occlusive blocks, or occludes, the escape of water or hydration through the skin barrier, thus preventing trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL.
I found an insightful piece on the Good Housekeeping website titled, What You Need to Know About Occlusives in Skincare.
From body lotions and face moisturizers to lip balms and everything in between, a quick scan of skincare products that pass through the Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty Lab shows it's hard to find a skin hydrator that's formulated without the category of ingredient known as "occlusives."
You won't find these workhorse ingredients leading any trends (they've been around a long time), but they remain an invaluable part of any healthy skincare routine and dermatologist practices. Occlusives have proven to be a godsend for dry, dehydrated skin, and help with skin aging, sun damage, and wound healing.
So what exactly is an occlusive in skincare?
The medical definition: "Occlusives are moisturizing agents that work by forming a protective layer on the surface of your skin and create a barrier to prevent moisture loss," explains Olay Scientific Communications Senior Director Frauke Neuser Ph.D.
By mimicking the skin's natural lipid barrier, they also have protective properties. "Occlusive ingredients help protect the skin from external irritants, including friction, cold wind, and pollen," she explains. Some occlusives, such as petrolatum and shea butter (yes, shea butter is a good occlusive!), are multitaskers that can smooth and soften skin, acting as emollients, another type of moisturizing agent.
Hydration Vaccine has a unique silicone-rich texture. It takes a bit of getting used to as it’s like nothing you’ve ever applied to your skin before. In order to appreciate it, you need to get past the fear that heavy silicones are going to clog your pores and lead to irritation and breakouts.
In fact, in the years since I first experienced it, I’ve noticed zero sign of that when using Hydration Vaccine. I've actually grown to love its weird texture. Likely as a consequence of the fact that I really get it and appreciate what it’s doing for my skin — especially in the cold. When I use Hydration Vaccine, my skin simply feels healthier, more hydrated, plumper and, of course, less dry. In the cold winter months in NYC, this stuff is a godsend.
NIOD’s directions for Hydration Vaccine read: “Apply a small amount all over face in the AM and PM after the application of serums (ideally NIOD CAIS and MMHC) but before the application of any other creams and/or sunscreen formulations.”
I've actually adjusted that slightly on days when the air is colder and dryer by applying a lighter moisturizer before I apply HV. Again, at first, I was concerned it may be going too far and lead to breakouts. It does not.
Hey, I get that Hydration Vaccine isn't for everyone. Quite a few people are averse to silicones for one reason or another. I don't happen to be one of them. But NIOD isn’t the brand for everyone; it’s the brand for skincare nerds.
As with nearly all of NIOD’s formulas, Hydration Vaccine is about real science. It’s not for skincare beginners or casual skincare users. If you’re serious about your skin care and fully understand the link between skin health and hydration, I recommend giving NIOD’s Hydration Vaccine a try!
SHOP THE BLOG: For the month of November only, purchase the NIOD Hydration Vaccine (HV) for $42.35 (reg. $55) here.
That’s it, guys! I hope you’ll take advantage of Deciem’s annual Slowvember sales event and save on all of your favorite products from The Ordinary and NIOD. And, with my recommendations, perhaps find one or two new favorites!
See you next week…
💟 Carmine @skincarma
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The Ingredient List of The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane:
The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser:
sii|emo 0 1, Aqua (Water) solv, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate emo, Glycerin 
sii|h 0 0, Sucrose Stearate emo|emu|surf 0 0, Ethyl Macadamiate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Sucrose Laurate emo|emu|surf, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate h, Sucrose Dilaurate emo|emu|surf, Sucrose Trilaurate emu|surf, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 vc, Isoceteth-20 emu|surf, Sodium Polyacrylate vc|emo, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone aox|so, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Malic Acid exf|buff, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amicThe Ingredient List of the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2):
h, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Hyaluronic Acid sii|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate h, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate h, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate h, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate cci, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides h, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum h|vc, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract aox|h, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum emo|vc, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 cci, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract so|aox|amic, Salvia Sclarea Extract so, Arginine sii, Aspartic Acid sii, Glycine sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Valine sii, Isoleucine sii, Proline sii, Threonine sii, Histidine sii|h, Phenylalanine sii, Pca sii|h, Sodium Pca sii|h 0 0, Betaine h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside aox|so, Gallyl Glucoside aox|so, Algae Extract emo|h, Sodium Salicylate pres, Lecithin emo|emu, Polyglucuronic Acid h, Xanthan Gum vc, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Sclerotium Gum vc, Pullulan, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose vc, Propanediol solv|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Citric Acid buff, Magnesium Chloride vc, Silica vc, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Propyl Gallate aox|perf, Dehydroacetic Acid pres, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenoxyethanol presThe Ingredient List of the NIOD Hydration Vaccine (HV):
sii|h 0 0, Propanediol solv|h, Sodium Polyacrylate vc|emo, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract aox|so|h, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate h, Proline sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Xylitol h, Xylitylglucoside h, Anhydroxylitol h, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract emo, Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome Extract aox|h, Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract h, Sphagnum Magellanicum Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract so|h, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Tocopheryl Acetate aox 0 0, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter emo, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil emo 0 1, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Lecithin emo|emu, Hexamethyldisiloxane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate emo, Cyclopentasiloxane emo|solv, Dimethicone emo 0 1, Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer vc, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer vc, Xanthan Gum vc, Citric Acid buff, Sodium Phosphate buff, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Gluconolactone exf|chel, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Sodium Benzoate pres, Potassium Sorbate pres, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amicThe Ingredient List of the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1 % (CAIL):
sii|emo 0 1, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Aqua (Water) solv, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate h, Glycolipids, Sucrose Laurate emo|emu|surf, Propanediol solv|h, Copper Tripeptide-1 (Palmitoyl) cci|so|aox, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran, Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Extract perf, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract h, Sucrose Stearate emo|emu|surf 0 0, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Phenoxyethanol pres
