MY SPRING EMPTIES: PAULA'S CHOICE C15 VITAMIN C SUPER BOOSTER, FARMACY GREEN DEFENSE SUNSCREEN, JOSIE MARAN PINEAPPLE ENZYME CLEANSER AND MORE
What could feel more normal and so 2019 than going to a large outdoor sporting event?
Like a Yankee game.
This past weekend, I did just that. A friend and I stepped out in the Bronx and headed to Yankee Stadium to catch the Yankees play their arch-enemy, the Boston Red Sox.
I grew up in a family of die-hard Yankees fans and, naturally, the Red Sox were the enemy. Any time the two iconic teams played was a big deal.
To this day, when I see someone out on the streets of New York in a blood-red Boston Red Sox cap, I see blood! The feeling is certainly mutual. On a trip to Boston a few years ago, I was going through TSA at Logan Airport and had put my Yankees cap into the security bin along with my wallet and belt. The cap never came out the other side where I was collecting my belongings. The TSA agents were die-hard Red Sox fans and had pulled it. We all got a good laugh out of it!
So to see the two teams meet up in my first baseball game since before the pandemic was nothing short of epic for me. I couldn’t imagine a bigger, better, more meaningful post-Covid comeback!
We had dope seats behind home plate in what was billed as “fully vaccinated seating.” Though in retrospect it was little more than marketing. They required no proof of vaccination at any time; not when checking tickets at the entry gate, and not at our seats. So I’m not sure there was much of a point. Unless the point was to lure vaccinated people to the game who were leery of being around people who are unvaccinated. But even that makes no sense.
No matter, being at the game was super cool and that tiny bit of normalcy was just what I was looking for. That and a dope new Yankees cap!
The skincare stuff starts here.
I love, love, love reflecting back on my skincare journey over the prior three to four months in my quarterly blog articles on the products I’ve emptied. I last explored products I loved so much I finished them up at the beginning of the year in a piece titled, My Winter Empties 2020: Serums, Cleansers And Toners From Drunk Elephant, Skinfix, Paula's Choice And More! You can still catch the article here.
In my collection of Winter Empties 2020, there were products that I’ve now replaced and emptied multiple times over. Among them the Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster — one of the best Hyaluronic Acid serums I’ve come across. At this point, it’s a staple in the Skincarma Vault, aka my floor to ceiling medicine cabinet.
There was also a favorite hydrating toner — Sunday Riley’s Pink Drink Firming Resurfacing Essence. I’ve maybe gone through six bottles of it since it was first introduced by the brand last fall. That’s saying a lot!
There were a couple of products that I used up, too, but have never replaced — including the Drunk Elephant F-Balm Electrolyte Waterfacial. It’s a cool product but not really much of a game changer; and though I liked it, I likely won’t replace it. There just isn’t much F-Balm #fomo.
And that’s really what it’s about for me. I try so many products that it’s really telling if I even finish a product let alone replace it. When it’s gone, the #fomo is real.
So let’s take a look at five of the products that I finished this past spring, review what I said about them initially, whether or not I miss them — and if I’m feeling the #fomo…
NIOD | Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist
What I said about it: I’m always in the mood for a good hydrating face mist. Several weeks ago, just as winter was hitting here in NYC, I crafted an entire blog article titled, Favorite Face Mists For Keeping Skin Hydrated In The Cold – Best Face Mists, Best Hydrating Toners For Dry, Dehydrated Skin. If you’re feeling dry and dehydrated, be sure to check it out here.
Among my faves reviewed in that piece are the Derma E Hydrating Mist, the Skinfix Barrier+ Nutrient Water Misting Tonic and Sunday Riley’s Pink Drink Firming Resurfacing Essence — a fermented dream come true.
As with everything NIOD creates, the Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist isn’t just some run-of-the-mill skincare product; it’s much more than a hydrating toner. As a matter of fact, NIOD denies that SDSM2 is a toner at all.
“SDSM2 is the second generation of SDSM, NIOD's dermal treatment mist–not to be classified mistakenly as a "toner"–that acts as a fundamental daily force against oxidative stress, water loss and the look of inflammation, all of which contribute to loss of visible skin quality over time.”
There’s clearly no accounting for the fact that SDSM2 is used in place of a toner. And, to be honest, I make no distinctions between even the best toners for face and the best hydrating face mists. It’s a matter of how they are dispensed; clearly a mist is easier to apply than a conventional toner. And the sole purpose of each is to restore skin’s hydration levels.
So, while we can agree to disagree on how to refer to SDSM2, what exactly is NIOD’s Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist?
First, as indicated by the product’s very name, SDSM2 is enriched with Superoxide Dismutase — a naturally occurring antioxidant found in the skin that’s the body’s most essential antioxidant to fend off cell damage.
According to the NIOD scientists, “Superoxide is the main reactive oxygen species in each cell and SOD is the body's natural way of out-competing the ongoing and very damaging effect of superoxide in cells. Arguably, SOD is the most important force against oxidation in the human body.”
I had never heard of antioxidant Superoxide Dismutase until discovering this remarkable, ahem, hydrating toner, about three years ago. It’s relatively infrequent to find it in an INCI and when I do I always think about this powerhouse formula.
SDSM2 is certainly a potent skin re-hydrator. But, in classic NIOD fashion, it does so in its own way. There are only low levels of two common humectants in the formula, Glycerin and Butylene Glycol — not exactly power hydrators. Instead of going the easy Hyaluronic Acid route, the NIOD formulators got all wonky in their effort to protect against dehydrated skin.
What’s the Difference between Dry Skin and Dehydrated Skin?
For the answer to that vexing questing, as I most often do, I turned to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team for insights. There’s a superb piece on the Paula’s Choice site titled, What is Dehydrated Skin & How to Choose the Best Products. Here is an excerpt:
Dehydrated skin often looks and feels like dry skin all over your face, but there's a major difference between the two: dehydrated skin is usually a temporary concern (with various surprising causes) and dry skin typically doesn't change over time. If you have dehydrated skin, your skin may also produce a normal or even excessive amount of oil on its surface.
"Dehydrated skin" is something we’re asked about frequently. It seems there’s a lot of confusion about what this skin concern is about. A major part of the confusion is that the term "dehydrated skin" is often used interchangeably with "dry skin" or "combination skin" but they are not the same! Dehydrated skin can occur in all skin types and is not exclusive to those with dry skin or combination skin.
The Difference Between Dry Skin and Dehydrated Skin
Having classically dry skin is easy to recognize. Dry skin frequently feels tight and dry, with no oil anywhere to be seen. This situation rarely fluctuates; skin feels dry all year long. The dryness might get worse depending on the climate, season, or activity, but regardless of those things, without great skin care products, the uncomfortable dry, tight feeling will persist.
As mentioned above, dehydrated skin can look and feel similar, but there’s a major difference: Dehydrated skin tends to come and go, it does not persist.
SDSM2 delivers its humectant oomph to hydrate skin and maintain water levels through a high concentration of Marine Exopolysaccharides. The sustainably-sourced marine polysaccharide apparently has superior water preservation properties to the highest molecule weight Hyaluronic Acid molecules. And as such, “With continued use, the longer-term benefits of preserving hydration are far beyond just hydration itself; however, from a more immediate perspective, this technology increases skin hydration by more than 35% and measurably reduces the look of roughness within 2 hours.”
Call it whatever you want, but don’t call it boring.
What I think now: NIOD’s Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist remains one of my favorite antioxidant hydrating mists and I’m definitely feeling the #fomo on this one.
#fomo level: Like 1,000. It’s about that time for a refill!
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist for $50 here.
Paula’s Choice | C15 Super Booster
What I said about it: I have made no secret of the fact that the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster is my favorite skincare product. Quite simply, it’s the best Niacinamide serum on the market and the best anti-aging serum, too. To understand what makes it so exceptional for me, check out my blog article titled, Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster – The Best Niacinamide Serum To Brighten Skin And Clear Clogged Pores!
But as much as I love that and so many other Paula’s Choice products, I hadn’t gotten around to trying the brand’s C15 Super Booster until very recently. I know that seems so odd, right? I feel like I’ve tried every Paula’s Choice product that the brand offers. I even wrote a blog article titled, Three Of The Best Paula's Choice Products That Make Me Purr Like Orpheus!
Make it four!
Yes, the Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster is that good. Of course it’s clean. But one of the things I love about the 10% Niacinamide Booster is its unique versatility. Both the 10% Niacinamide Booster and C15 Super Booster have super watery textures that make them easy to layer into any skincare routine. They’re best applied immediately following cleansing and toning so that they can be full absorbed into the skin’s layers unimpeded.
As the name indicates, it as a relatively high concentration of 15% Vitamin C. In the case of the C15 Super Booster, it’s in the form of Ascorbic Acid — the purest (and most unstable) form of the antioxidant powerhouse. In fact, the Ascorbic Acid is the second ingredient after water.
Which would normally give me pause — and did. Water is a Vitamin C destabilizer. A quick scan of the INCI and I find Vitamin C’s BFF, the antioxidant Ferulic Acid. The two are quite the pair and the Ferulic helps to keep the Vitamin C from breaking down. The air tight dropper component and opaque class bottle help as well.
What Does Vitamin C Do for Skin?
There’s an excellent article on the remarkable benefits of Vitamin C for the skin from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, What is Vitamin C and How Does it Benefit Skin?
Vitamin C is one of the most exciting, research-proven ingredients you can apply to skin (1). This water-soluble antioxidant is a natural component of healthy skin. When we’re young, vitamin C levels in skin’s outermost two layers (epidermis and dermis) are abundant, but as we age, these levels naturally deplete. Unprotected sun exposure (UV damage) and pollution can accelerate this decline, leading to skin looking and feeling dull, uneven, and less firm than it once was (2).
Luckily, there are topical skin care solutions that can help mitigate this damage, so skin looks and feels healthier and younger longer.
Vitamin C Benefits for Skin
Vitamin C’s benefits for skin are vast, including its ability to even out skin tone and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (3). While this powerhouse ingredient is well-known for its skin-brightening benefits, research also shows it can shield skin from the visible impacts of environmental stressors, including free radical damage (4). This synergy of mitigating problems both before and after they occur makes vitamin C a force to be reckoned with.
There’s a whole lot more going on with the Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster than just the power pair of Vitamin C and Ferulic Acid. There’s humectant Sodium Hyaluronate as well as the skin-replenishing actives Vitamin E, Glycerin, Lecithin and Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate — a synthetic peptide that helps speed up desquamation (skin’s natural shedding process) for a consistently fresher looking complexion.
Notably, there are a pair of tried-and-true skin soothers to help ameliorate the irritation associated with a 15% concentration of Vitamin C, including Panthenol (Vitamin B5) and Bisabolol — the active component of chamomile.
Seriously, I don’t know what took me so long. The Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster is such a phenomenal option and one of the best Vitamin C serums for face.
What I think now: The Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster is one of those indispensable Vitamin C serums. If you’re looking for a potent, effective and well-formulated Vitamin C serum that’s worth the money, this is it.
#fomo level: Oh it’s real, real. I’ve always got one on hand in the Skincarma Vault!
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster for $49 here.
Farmacy | Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
What I said about it: I’ve had a secret crush on Farmacy Beauty for years. Every winter, one of my favorite dry skin treats is the Farmacy Honey Potion Renewing Antioxidant Hydration Mask. If you haven’t experienced Honey Potion, you’re really missing out. It’s super gooey, super soothing and superbly nourishing on the skin. When my skin is dry, irritated, uncomfortable — and looking like it — Honey Potion works its magic to ease my complexion back to a healthy vibrancy.
Get yourself a pot here before the cold sets in!
I recently reviewed Farmacy’s Deep Sweep 2% BHA Pore Cleaning Toner in my article about the best exfoliating toners titled, Acid Toners – Some of the Best BHA / AHA Toners for Face from Paula's Choice, Farmacy and More. (You can catch the full piece here.)
It’s a terrific, clean formulation with an ideal pH level — right in the range for its beneficial acids to exfoliate the skin. That’s not something I can say about many treatments formulated with Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid — including two of them that I reviewed in the article. Boo on them! All too often, they’re way off the mark, minimally effective — and bordering on nonsensical skin care. There’s certainly a lot of that out there.
But not from Farmacy! The Deep Sweep formula effectively exfoliates the skin and deep cleans (make that sweeps!) pores, clearing them of any build-up that can stretch them out and make them appear more visible.
Farmacy just gets it. It’s a cool name, but what’s the brand about? Well, that pure ingredients matter; that clean formulas matter. When these things are prioritized by a brand, skin care can truly benefit the skin. Farmacy locally sources and cultivates pure, natural ingredients for its clean skin care. And I’m consistently wowed by the brand’s products.
So, of course, I was excited when Farmacy recently came out with a new, clean mineral sunscreen — the Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen.
To start, Green Defense is thicker than I was expecting. Surprisingly so — and the precise reason it’s perfect for a collection of seasonal sunscreens.
The first time I slathered it on, I worried that it would leave a white cast. How could it not; it’s kinda thick and has a glowy iridescence to it. But, it blended right in and left me with a nice, healthy radiance.
It’s an interesting formula. With a combination of the two common mineral filters, Zinc Oxide (5.82%) and Titanium Dioxide (2.4%), it offers broad-spectrum SPF 30 protection — which will defend skin against 97% of UV rays. But it’s so much more than just its mineral sunscreen filters.
Green Defense is a wonderful melange of beneficial botanical extracts and nourishing oils. Some are expected, like the Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil and Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil. But, there are several natural extracts that I’ve rarely, if ever, seen in a skincare INCI! These include: Echinacea Purpurea Root Extract, Aronia Melanocarpa Fruit Extract, and Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower.
What’s the Difference between Mineral and Chemical Sunscreens?
For some real insights, there’s an excellent article by the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, Mineral vs. Synthetic Sunscreen Ingredients available here. In the piece, the experts explain the differences and benefits between mineral and chemical sunscreens — and even dispel a myth or two:
“The two types of sunscreen ingredients are mineral and synthetic [chemical], and both are equally protective. Further reassuring is that each can be included in formulas created for every skin type. For example, if you have normal to oily skin, there are weightless, non-greasy options; if you have normal to dry skin, it’s possible to find skin-smoothing, hydrating SPF products.
What’s the Difference Between Mineral and Synthetic Sunscreen Ingredients?
The differences aren’t about which type is more effective; rather, it comes down to personal preference and how sensitive your skin is—mineral sunscreens are considered the most gentle options.
Mineral sunscreens: There are only two mineral sunscreen ingredients: titanium dioxideand zinc oxide. They work in skin's uppermost layers to both absorb and, to a lesser extent, deflect and scatter the sun’s harmful rays. These mineral ingredients are sometimes referred to as physical sunscreens or physical blockers, although that’s not a factual representation of how they work.
Synthetic sunscreens: There are over 30 synthetic sunscreen ingredients, all of which absorb into the top layers of skin, where they work similar to mineral sunscreens: by scattering and deflecting the sun’s harmful rays, and by converting UV rays into heat and “deactivating” them. (Don’t worry, you won’t feel a thing.) Common synthetic sunscreen ingredients include oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, and avobenzone. These are sometimes labeled “chemical sunscreens,” which is both misleading and false. All skin care ingredients, even water, are chemicals.
Echinacea, of course, is a natural treatment for the common cold. I’ll assume it has some sort of detoxifying effect in addition to offering antioxidant protection. Verbascum Thapsus Flower, commonly known as mullein, is able to “harvest UV radiation and transform it into new visible light to appear brighter, becoming more visible in the meadow and therefore, having a greater chance to attract insects.” Wild, right?
But the Aronia Melanocarpa Fruit Extract, or Black Chokeberry, is most intriguing to me. I knew I’d seen it once before and recalled that I came across it in the COSRX Triple C Lightning Liquid. It’s a terrific antioxidant, and more.
What Is Black Chokeberry?
Black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) fruits are among the richest sources of polyphenols and anthocyanins in plant kingdom and suitable raw material for production of functional foods. The popularity of chokeberries is not only due to their nutritional value but also to the constantly emerging evidence for their health-promoting effects.
The current study presents detailed information about the content and composition of sugars, organic acids, and polyphenols in 23 aronia samples…Organic acids were represented by substantial amounts of quinic acid, malic acid, and ascorbic acid.
All this to say that while Farmacy’s Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen is defending skin against environmental damage with effective UV filters and antioxidants, it’s restoring and promoting skin health with nourishing natural substances.
Green Defense is everything you want in a mineral sunscreen — and more. It’s perfect for slathering on in the morning and hitting the ground running. Seriously, unless your skin is super dry, it’s all you need in a moisturizer, too!
What I think now: The Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen was the perfect winter sunscreen for me! Thick, rich and protective — from UV and dry air.
#fomo level: For sure. I know once that fall chill starts to creep back in I’ll be longing for a refill of my Green Defense.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen for $36 here.
The Skincarma Product Of The Year: Balm Labs Serum Hydrator
What I said about it: Both the Clear Balm Serum Hydrator and the brand’s exfoliating Power Elixir contain 300 mg of CBD to help sooth irritation and restore equilibrium in the surface microbiome. Personally, I really noticed a difference in how my skin behaved within 24 hours after using the brand’s regimen the very first time. I was literally glowing — and not in the same way I glow when I’m enjoying a cupcake!
CBD in skincare has exploded over the last 18 months with the more established brands like Paula’s Choice, Herbivore, and Josie Maran offering new, innovative CBD facial skin care.
Last spring, the beauty gurus at Allure published an article titled, The 17 Best CBD Skin-Care Products to Try Right Now.
Right at the top that Allure list? The Herbivore Botanicals Emerald CBD + Adaptogens Deep Moisture Glow Oil — which I reviewed on my blog here. (I’m proud to have noted its exceptional qualities on the Skincarma Blog first!)
Beyond the well-known brands, new entrants founded entirely around CBD products have emerged — among them Saint Jane Beauty, Prima and Balm Labs.
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What Does CBD Do for Skin?
That’s really been the question of the year! So, what makes it more than the gimmick it would seem to be at first? For the answer, I turned to the trusted experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, as I so often do. According to the Paula’s Choice Research Team:
“Cannabidiol has been shown to offer numerous benefits related to calming skin. Skin has specific receptor sites for cannabinoids (referred to as its endocannabinoid system). It seems CBD can “talk” to these receptor sites on skin, sending unique signals to stop firing the wrong messages, which in turn leads to healthier, better-looking skin. This benefit makes cannabidiol an intriguing ingredient for interrupting the progression of damage within skin’s uppermost layers that can lead to visible problems; however, more research needs to be done to gain a greater understanding of how CBD works on skin.
Research has also shown, though isn’t entirely clear on how this works, that CBD seems to visibly reduce oily skin. It’s also a very good antioxidant, on par with vitamins C and E.”
For more, there’s a fantastic article about CBD in skin care in the Skincare Advice section on the Paula’s Choice website titled, CBD Oil's Benefits for Skin: Can it Help With Acne, Anti-Aging, & Other Skin Issues? — which you can read here.
The Balm Labs Serum Hydrator is a really cool formula that’s easily layered into any and every existing skincare routine. As I said, I often slot it in at the humectant serum step in my own daily regimen — immediately following cleansing and toning.
It’s a terrific blend of antioxidant botanical extracts, non-fragrant plant oils and brightening Niacinamide that illuminates the complexion and gives you that signature #balmlabsbombglow!
The Serum Hydrator has a light, milky texture that sinks right in. It’s natural, deeply nourishing and such a pleasure to use. Really good stuff to rebalance the skin and restore skin health — and the place to start your Balm Labs journey.
What I think now: The Balm Labs Clear Balm Serum Hydrator and the entire Balm Labs collection remain among the best skincare for acne prone skin that I’ve come across. I continue to recommend the regimen regularly.
#fomo level: Definitely up there. It’s just so pro-skin health that I can’t get enough of it — and don’t wanna be out of it.
SHOP THE BLOG: For a limited time, save 15% on all skin care from Balm Labs with code SKINCARMA15. Purchase the Balm Labs Clear Balm Serum Hydrator for $71.40 (reg. $84) here.
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
THE SKINCARMA PRODUCT OF THE YEAR: BALM LABS 3-STEP REGIMEN - BEST ACNE REGIMEN, BEST CBD SERUM
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
Josie Maran | Pineapple Enzyme Pore Clearing Cleanser
What I said about it: Fresh off my blog article on the Josie Maran Skin Dope collection of CBD skincare, I’m excited to share my experience with Josie’s new Pineapple Enzyme Pore Clearing Cleanser!
You probably know what a cleanser freak I am. (If you don’t, I’m a cleanser freak!) This baby is certainly a keeper. It has this wonderfully lightweight gel texture that isn’t sticky or gooey as a conventional gel cleanser would be. It feels more like 100% Aloe Vera gel. Interestingly, while the Pineapple Enzyme Pore Clearing Cleanser does contain Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, it’s quite a way down the INCI.
The clean, vegan and cruelty-free formula does contain enzymes in the form of Pineapple Fruit Extract for an ultra gentle exfoliating effect if left on skin for a minute or two. There’s also Josie’s signature 100% pure Argan Oil — as well as multiple antioxidant botanical extracts including Marshmallow Root, which helps soften skin and “restore skin’s balance to prevent stripping during cleansing.”
For a pore-clearing affect, there’s a blend of Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, and Willow Bark Extract — which has the properties of Salicylic Acid. Honestly, it’s gentle enough to leave on as an enzyme mask.
I’m no fan of cleansers that foam very much and the Pineapple Enzyme Pore Clearing Cleanser has only a light bubbling effect. What I love most is how quickly and easily it rinses off the skin. It’s quite remarkable, actually.
If you have acne-prone skin, oily skin, even normal or combination skin, this cleanser is perfect for you. In fact, I’d say it’s one of the best cleansers for oily skin that I’ve experienced. Truthfully, all skin types would be made happy by this one.
If you missed it, you can read all about the Josie Maran Skin Dope collection on the Skincarma Blog in my article titled, Products I Love: Josie Maran Skin Dope Clean Facial Skincare with CBD. It’s available to read here.
What I think now: Josie Maran Pineapple Enzyme Pore Clearing Cleanser is certainly an effective cleanser for all skin types. You can’t go wrong with it, particularly if you love really lightweight cleansers. It’s kind of ideal for the summer heat.
#fomo level: Not very serious. It’s a nice light summery gel cleanser but they’re quite common.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Josie Maran Pineapple Enzyme Pore Clearing Cleanser for $28 here.
That’s it, guys! I hope you enjoyed my look back at my spring product empties. I’ll see you again in the late summer, early fall!
💟 Carmine @skincarma
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
JOSIE MARAN’S SKIN DOPE CLEAN FACIAL SKINCARE WITH CBD
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