Greetings from the frozen tundra! It was another blisteringly cold week in NYC. Day after day over the past year, I have longed to be outside. Now ironically, not so much.

I ventured out to weather the cold yesterday to grab a few essentials. In the five minutes it took me to get from my apartment to the Whole Foods across from the Brooklyn Academy of Music, my soul had frozen over.

It wasn’t so much that 25 degrees was all that unbearable. The brutality of it was driven by the damp wind coming at me.

I knew we had crossed over into torture territory when it was simply too cold to scroll through my feed in the IG app on my iPhone. I just couldn’t bear to have my hands out of my pockets for longer than a minute. So I kept my hands safe and warm and met the cold head on as a swiftly walked home. Funny, the chill invigorated me, energized me for my weekly Clubhouse chat, The Skincarma Lounge.

If you haven’t joined Clubhouse yet, I invite you to pop in on an upcoming Saturday morning. I’ve been having so much fun connecting with others who are passionate about skin care — including skincare bloggers, brand founders, skincare and beauty marketers and even dermatologists. The derms are always my faves. How often do you get a chance to talk to a dermatologist outside an office appointment?

Guess what! This coming Saturday you will. I’m hosting Dr. Jen Haley, board certified dermatologist and integrative lifestyle expert in The Skincarma Lounge. We’ll be talking about skin health as a reflection of internal health. It’ll be fun and, I hope, insightful for all!

As much as I’ve been enjoying connecting to others over the Clubhouse social audio app, I dread the daily Zoom calls. I can have up to five a day and sometimes I have three of them video calls back-to-back without a minute to breathe. They’re exhausting. But I found a way to at least lighten the uniformly onerous experience.

Last week, the internet was alight with news of a lawyer who accidentally turned himself into a cat on a Zoom call with a judge. I don’t know what the big deal was, I’ve long wanted to experience life as a cat, to put myself in Orpheus’ shoes (err paws!). So I did just that. I optimized the Zoom app and transformed myself into a cat on a call with a client who happens to be a cool cat himself! It was the least tedious Zoom call in a year.

I’m down for a little levity, for lightening the daily grind a bit by toning down the tedium and living life like a cat as much as I can. Trust me, no one has it all figured out like Orpheus…

The skincare stuff starts here.

This past weekend, I hosted a skincare soulmate in The Skincarma Lounge on Clubhouse — Amy Risely. Amy is the founder of Skinfix, one of my favorite clinical skincare brands. The self-proclaimed chief skin nerd is an expert in skin-barrier health and common skin issues related to a compromised barrier, notably sensitivity and eczema.

Amy and her team of skin experts are focused primarily on protecting, maintaining and enhancing the health of the skin barrier. Skinfix offers some of the best body treatments for eczema, best face serums for rosacea and best face creams for dry skin. And, the brand has a broad range of products that target skin barrier health called simply, Barrier+.

I published an article last week about the Skinfix Barrier+ collection in a piece titled, My Winter Skin Savior: Skinfix Barrier+ Lipid Replenishing Skincare.

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE - BEST FACE CREAM FOR DRY SKIN

The Skinfix Barrier+ products are formulated to replenish and restore lipids in the skin barrier, also known as the moisture barrier or lipid barrier. The cornerstone of the Barrier+ franchise is the increasingly popular Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream — “a lipid filler” rich in vital lipids like ceramides and fatty acids, as well as plumping peptides and humectant Sodium Hyaluronate. The Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream, or TLPC, is clinically proven to help restore skin lipids and support barrier function by reversing lipid depletion — by up to 1% each day. While that sounds minimal, it adds up. Over time, it’s no joke when it comes to skin health and defending skin against dryness.

In fact, I’ve been relying on TLPC to keep my skin from drying out completely in the cold since November — when I first reviewed it in my piece on Winter Moisturizers. It’s one of the best moisturizers for dry skin that helps prevent trans-epidermal water loss — the main cause of skin dehydration and poor skin health year-round, but particularly in winter.

What is trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)?

There’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? available here. In the piece, the author defines TEWL as follows:

“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).
While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.
Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”

MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GHOST DEMOCRACY AND MORE

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While I love my TLPC, the Skinfix product I’m truly obsessed with lately is perhaps the brand’s hidden gem, the Remedy+ 911 Ointment. I first reviewed the unusually unctuous, super thick 911 Ointment in my blog article on maskne titled, Best Maskne Treatments – available to read here.

While I appreciate its benefits for the treatment of maskne, it was Amy who introduced me to the true miracle that is her Remedy+ 911 Ointment — as a slugging treatment.

I know what you’re thinking. Slug, what? Slugging?! That sounds crazy. Yes, it does! But slugging is legit — and one of the most intriguing skincare trends I’ve tapped into over the past several months. (Thank you, Amy!)

The act of slugging is literally one of the most effective means of maintaining skin health in dry climates and during the harsh, cold winter months.

What is slugging, exactly?

Well, slugging is the latest K-beauty skincare trend that calls for the application of a waterless, heavy ointment or balm over the skin to defend against dehydrating TEWL. As with the 7-Skin Method, K-beauty is centered around hydration and preserving skin’s optimal hydration levels as essential to skin health and, as a consequence, skin aging itself.

In K-beauty, hydration is anti-aging!

Did you know that 70% of the human body is composed of water?

According to NASA, “From ancient times, explorers have ‘followed the water.’ Water's unique chemical and physical properties are essential to human survival. Without water, basic physical processes would be impossible. Cells within the human body would die. None of the essential physical functions, such as breathing, digestion, or muscle movement could take place without water. About 70 percent of the human body is made up of water and, coincidentally, more than 70 percent of Earth is covered in water. Water creates an environment that sustains and nurtures plants, animals and humans, making Earth a perfect match for life in general.”

Preserving skin’s hydration levels is everything! And slugging is a cool, easy way to lock moisture in the skin. While its recent origins are in the wild world of Korean skincare, the concept of slugging dates back to the 1960s and 70s when women would apply Vaseline over their skin at bedtime to keep it moist and, whether they knew it or not, prevent TEWL.

You may recall that I conducted a split-face comparison a few years using Vaseline on one side of my face and Creme de la Mer on the other.

Over several days, I compared my results. You are welcome to check out my original blog article titled, The Skincarma Challenge: Vaseline Vs. Creme De La Mer. It’s available to read here.

The term “slugging” has its derivation in the English word slug — a synonym for snail. It would seem to be the next generation of the K-beauty phenomenon of treating dry skin with snail mucin, relied upon for its richly moisturizing and skin-nourishing benefits. (Sorry, I’m no fan of snail mucin but I love escargot!)

Generally, the best slugging treatments are rich in super occlusive petrolatum — the main ingredient in Vaseline and the third ingredient in Creme de la Mer — after seaweed and Mineral Oil. I know petrolatum gets a bad rap, but a bad rap doesn’t make it bad for skin. According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, petrolatum is among the best active ingredients for skin.

“Vaseline is pure petrolatum, and petrolatum is a rich emollient and FDA-approved skin protectant. It is one of the best ingredients for dry to very dry skin, including around the eyes. Although derived from crude oil (thus making petrolatum a natural ingredient), it is highly purified prior to being used in cosmetics, so there’s no risk of exposure to unwanted chemicals. For some unknown and unsubstantiated reason and despite solid research to the contrary, petrolatum has attained a negative image in regard to skin. Topical application of petrolatum can help replenish, soothe and beautifully moisturize skin’s outer layer. It’s widely considered safe and highly effective. Extensive clinical data has shown petrolatum to be a gentle ingredient.”

WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

ARE YOU SLUGGING YET? WATCH AND FIND OUT WHY IT’S THE BEST DRY SKIN SOLUTION!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE

Not only are my friends at Skinfix experts in the treatment of eczema, sensitivity and skin barrier health, but they’re also pros in slugging. After all, slugging is just a simple way to maintain a healthy barrier. There’s an insightful piece about slugging on the Skinfix website titled, What is Slugging? I found this most worth noting:

Is slugging good for your skin?
Yes it is! One of the leading causes of skin-aging and unhealthy skin performance is TEWL. Dehydrated skin loses the ability to bounce back from environmental aggressors. With a weakened skin barrier, skin can become dry, deflated, sensitive and sallow. That adage about drinking eight glasses of water each day? Well, water is essential to your skin health as it is to the rest of your body.
While petrolatum gets an undeserved bad rap, the tried-and-true ingredient is actually safe and gentle on the skin. In fact, the American Academy of Dermatology recommends petrolatum for the treatment of eczema in babies. If it’s gentle enough for a newborn, it’s gentle enough for you.
How often should I slug my face?
There is no hard and fast rule about how often you can and should slug. The frequency of slugging is dependent upon the needs of your skin. We recommend trying it one night and monitoring how your skin feels. If you find that your skin reacts well to slugging, appearing more visibly hydrated, plump and healthy than usual, slug again the following night. Only you know your skin and your skin’s unique needs!

WHAT CAN I USE FOR SLUGGING?

“Slugging requires a petrolatum-enriched product to achieve the level of occlusion required to prevent TEWL and lock in moisture. The Skinfix Remedy+ 911 Ointment is one of the best slugging products. 911 Ointment is an active pharmaceutical ointment clinically proven to improve skin barrier function. It is enriched with petrolatum and active levels of allantoin and cupuaçu butter to help prevent TEWL and deeply moisturize skin for lasting hydration.”

Petrolatum isn’t the only ingredient for an effective slug-fest that leaves your skin plump and hydrated. What’s needed for a successful slug is an unctuous water-free balm. The cult Egyptian Magic All Purpose Skin Cream happens to be one, and also happens to be petrolatum-free.

The Egyptian Magic formula is a rich, occlusive treatment composed of just five ingredients in all — Olive Oil, Beeswax, Honey, Bee Pollen, Propolis and Royal Jelly. Purportedly an ancient beauty secret found in the tombs of ancient Egyptians, there’s actually no magic in it!

Honey is a great ingredient for the skin, delivering moisturizing, antimicrobial and occlusive benefits to the skin. Propolis and Royal Jelly are also natural, nourishing pro-skin health actives with some antioxidant benefits. If the Queen Bee can eat it, you bet your skin will love it too!

Even the beeswax in Egyptian Magic acts as a gentle occlusive substance to prevent dryness and dehydration. All of it has a marvelously occlusive effect on the skin to minimize TEWL.

Let’s take a look at my two favorite slugging treatments — one for day, one for night…

Skinfix | Remedy+ 911 Ointment

I’ve been relying on the Skinfix Remedy+ 911 Ointment as an incredibly effective treatment for soothing mask irritation, or maskne. It’s one of the best maskne treatments and has become part of my arsenal. The 911 Ointment is the perfect emergency salve for soothing the more serious mask-induced irritation around the mouth and nose. In fact, since I began to rely on its skin-soothing benefits, I haven’t suffered from a serious maskne attack. That’s quite a relief!

But, 911 Ointment is also one of the best slugging treatments for face. Perhaps the most distressing symptoms of maskne irritation are the dryness, redness, chafing and peeling around the mouth. It never occurred to me to try it over the rest of my face until just this month.

911 Ointment is a rich, unctuous treatment that instantly soothes chafed, irritated skin — exactly what you need for a serious maskne flare-up and for preventing trans-epidermal water loss day or night.

The waterless balm is formulated with a deeply moisturizing and protective blend of Cupuaçu Seed Butter, Petrolatum, Sunflower Seed Oil, Beeswax and Shea Butter — all superbly pro-skin health.

But perhaps the star active in the 911 Ointment is the 0.5% concentration of Allantoin which Skinfix says, “helps promote optimal healing of minor cuts, scrapes and burns and temporarily protects chapped or cracked skin.”

Similar to Centella Asiatica and Cannabidiol, Allantoin is an effective treatment for soothing sensitive skin and calming irritation. In fact, Allantoin is rated among the best ingredients for skin by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

What is allantoin?

Allantoin is defined by the Paula’s Choice Research Team as a “by-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective skin-soothing and skin-conditioning agent.”

Just a few months ago, there was an intriguing piece in Allure magazine titled, Why K-Beauty Ingredient Allantoin Deserves a Place in Your Sensitive Skin-Care Routine. I found this most notable:

Although allantoin has been around for a while, it's recently risen in popularity in Seoul because many Korean beauty consumers struggle with sensitive skin, Soko Glam’s Charlotte Cho tells Allure. “Allantoin is right up there next to the cica and madecassoside trends — all are skin-soothing, skin-calming ingredients used for sensitive skin-friendly products.”.
How does allantoin benefit skin?
Allantoin’s shortlist of soothing benefits include anti-inflammation and hydration, lists cosmetic chemist Ginger King, making it just the gentle ingredient needed for sensitive skin.
The versatile ingredient also acts as a skin protectant much like petroleum jelly. You can often find it in anti-acne, sun care, and lip products for this reason, as it shields skin from chapping and can help improve minor wounds.

How do you do slugging with the Skinfix Remedy+ 911 Ointment?

A little goes a long way. Simply dispense a small amount on the back on one hand. Then, on clean skin, as the last step of your skincare routine, gently smooth the ointment over the entire face, focussing on the cheeks, which tend to become dryer.

911 Ointment is the ideal slugging treatment at night before bedtime. If you’re not leaving the house during the day, when you would require a sunscreen, try slugging in the morning, too. It helps to prevent dryness and dehydration from both the cold air and the artificial heat that’s keeping you warm.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Skinfix Remedy+ 911 Ointment for $24 here.

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Proude,.jpg — SHOP THE BLOG:

**Skinfix Remedy+ 911 Ointment**
**Skinnies Sungel SPF 30**

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COOL CLEAN FACIAL SUNSCREENS TO KEEP US SAFE AND SMILING IN THE SUN

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Skinnies | Waterless Sungel SPF 30

Slugging is generally thought of as a nighttime treatment to be employed right before bed as the last step in your skincare routine. And as such, the Skinfix Remedy+ 911 Ointment is the perfect slugging option. But if you understand how skin functions and why it loses moisture in dry air, then you understand that preventing trans-epidermal water loss is essential both day and night.

Skin is subjected to the dehydrating forces of cold air in winter whether you’re dead asleep or racing to and from the market up the block. And when you’re home in the heat, your skin is subjected to a double dose of drying. If you’re staying indoors all day and not in need of sun protection, Skinfix’s 911 Ointment is the way to go. But if you’re heading out into the elements, as soothing as this skin protectant is, you’ll need a sunscreen product — and you can’t apply sunscreen over or under the 911 Ointment.

I’m always seeking out the best sunscreen products I can get my hands on. There’s been a lot of innovation in sunscreens over the past year but regrettably, most of it has happened outside the US.

Thank goodness for the internet or I’d be using sunscreen technology that dates back to the 80s. The only sunscreen innovation in the US has come with clean, mineral sunscreens like my personal fave, the Solara Suncare Time Traveler Ageless Daily Face Sunscreen SPF 30.

While innovation in the US is moving at a snail’s (or slug’s) pace, the rest of the world is bringing a lot of newness to the category. The latest sun filters are driven by A-beauty — with Uvinul A Plus and others that protect skin from the most insidious aging UVA rays.

In general, one of the coolest trends in skincare is the removal of a single ingredient that often comprises up to 80% of a skincare product: water. Water is, in fact, useless to the skin and doesn’t offer much to a skincare product either. It’s simply a waste of money — and a waste of resources. And during the winter, you want heavier, water-free formulas that protect skin longer.

And my daytime slugging essential is a waterless sunscreen product from Skinnies, a New Zealand-based brand that’s innovated with waterless sunscreens. The Skinnies Sungel SPF 30 is far thicker and unctuous than most sunscreen products — and a little goes a long way. The water-free Skinnies Sungel is a clean, vegan formula that relies on chemical sun filters for broad-spectrum protection.

What is occlusion of the skin and how do occlusives work in skin care?

In skin care, occlusion in a formula like a waterless balm or ointment means it prevents water and moisture loss by forming a protective film over your skin that functions like a veil, or a temporary skin layer.
The best occlusive face creams prevent water from evaporating through the skin barrier into the dry, low-humidity air around you. In the winter, low humidity turns the air into a magnet that literally sucks the water out of your skin layers throughout the day. That's why skin feels drier in winter — and why we need richer creams, oils and balms in cold weather. By preventing water loss, you're in effect keeping your skin more hydrated, moist and healthy.

From the first time I tried it in the early summer, what was most interesting to me was its staying power. With most sunscreens, when I get home from a long day in the City, I know much of it is gone from my face. And gone with it? The anti-aging protection I had when I left the apartment in the morning. With the waterless Skinnies Sungel, there’s still a veil on my skin at day’s end. And that’s what makes it ideal as a daytime slugging treatment!

So while the latest K-beauty trend has everyone applying an occlusive treatment before bed to protect skin from drying out and prevent TEWL, I’ve got my daytime slugging treatment for effective round-the-clock defense. Thank you, Skinnies!

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Skinnies Sungel SPF 30 for $35 here.

BUY SKINNIES SUNGEL SPF 30

That’s it, guys! I hope you’ll give slugging a try, particularly if you’re in a cold, harsh, dry climate that freezes your soul.

Happy slugging!

💟 SKINCARMA