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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

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PRODUCT REVIEW: THE INKEY LIST POLYGLUTAMIC ACID – BEST HYDRATING SERUM, BEST HUMECTANT SERUM

THE INKEY LIST | POLYGLUTAMIC ACID

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This review was originally part of my blog article titled, Brands I Love: The Inkey List Affordable Skincare - Best Anti-Aging Serums, Best Anti-Aging Moisturizers & More. You can catch the full piece here.

One of the most intriguing products from The Inkey List is the brand’s new Polyglutamic Acid serum.

I had never heard of the active ingredient prior to the introduction of this product — and was intrigued by what Mark shared with me at the pop-up. In fact, the Polyglutamic Acid serum is one of his favorite product creations, and I can understand why.

The ingredient has similar properties to Hyaluronic Acid with superior performance as a humectant, locking in hydration and holding it in the skin to prevent water loss.

As HA, it’s not a direct acid like glycolic, lactic and salicylic are — so there’s no need to go easy with it. I never skimp on Hyaluronic Acid — two or three drops are not nearly enough. I usually use an amount that fills the center of my palm.


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What is the polyglutamic acid?

I found an insightful article about the benefits of polyglutamic acid on Refinery 29 titled, This New Skincare Ingredient Is 10 Times More Hydrating Than Hyaluronic Acid. The piece highlights an interview with Inkey List co-founder Mark Curry. In it, Mark explains the differences between humectant hyaluronic acid and skincare newcomer polyglutamic acid.

From serums to moisturisers, heaps of products contain the star component but there may well be a new contender to knock it off the top spot: polyglutamic acid. With the ability to hold ten times more moisture than hyaluronic acid according to experts, polyglutamic acid (or PGA) sounds like a major game changer.

Derived from fermented soybean mucilage, the ingredient – which is a peptide (aka protein) – does sound a little weird, but its effectiveness has skin experts all over the globe taking note. Hailed as one of the most powerful hydrating ingredients on the market right now, PGA diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, aids the skin's natural exfoliation process, minimises pigmentation, boosts elasticity (more so than topical collagen), and stimulates the skin's natural moisturising processes. Think of it as a jumbo glass of coconut water when you’re suffering from a next-level hangover.

“Polyglutamic acid is an exciting new ingredient that will leave skin smooth, plump and radiant,” reveals cofounder of Be For Beauty and CEO of the The Inkey List, Mark Curry. “What makes it different to hyaluronic acid is that it forms a film on the skin that stops water from evaporating, so not only is it a humectant that draws more water into the cells, it holds it there too.”

This doesn’t mean you've wasted your hard earned cash on hyaluronic acid serums, as Curry advocates using both HA and PGA, claiming they work in synergy with one another. “Hyaluronic acid can still be used as it will hydrate the lower levels of the skin. This has the added benefit of helping the skincare that follows to penetrate deeper. By adding PGA into the mix, you’re hydrating and plumping the top layer of skin and creating a seal that ensures maximum hydration.” In other words, they're a match made in heaven for tight, dehydrated skin, peppered with fine lines and wrinkles.


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That’s why it’s great to have options that are inexpensive. The more you use, the more it will keep your skin hydrated and healthy! Interestingly, Polyglutamic Acid is purported to be an even stronger humectant than the star HA molecule is — with 4x the humectant power.

However, Polyglutamic Acid is not as effective an antioxidant and doesn’t have the skin-soothing abilities of Hyaluronic Acid. What it does bring to the table is a unique occlusive benefit that acts to prevent moisture loss — similar to many common plant oils. This serum’s texture also indicates that it may work well as a lightweight primer.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid for $14.99 here.



The Ingredient List of The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid:

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