ACID TONERS – SOME OF THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, FARMACY AND MORE
Aside from one significant change in my daily life, it’s been a relatively uneventful week.
Hah! This is the week that I began to notice a shift in my migraines — which for the past year have been a daily battle. A battle of coping, a battle of mitigating pain, a battle of prevention. And a battle to live my life as best I can while the inside of my head feels like it’s on fire.
Just over a year ago, what had been a regular occurrence of headaches from childhood suddenly escalated into much more severe and frequent migraines.
People ask me all the time the difference between a migraine and a headache. If you know, you know. Migraines are far more intense and are a complete overload of your body’s senses. A headache is usually simply “head ache” — pain isolated in the head. Headaches are usually treatable with five-dollar OTC medications like Advil, Tylenol and Paracetomol. And I had always treated them that way. I ate Advil like candy.
But a migraine is a next-level experience. Often, the intense pain is accompanied by sensory overload that causes light and sound sensitivity. For me, the phonobobia — sensitivity to sound — is the most intense, the most unbearable. The train brakes on a subway care are the worst thing imaginable.
So last August, I sought out a neurologist for the first time. I don’t need, or want, to go into the failings of the U.S. healthcare system. But the battle with my health insurance company, the hospital bureaucracy, and sheer ineptness of pharmacist after pharmacist have often been as harrowing as the migraines themselves.
Today, I’m finally getting the treatments I needed a year ago to manage what has, no joke, sometimes been 31 migraine days a month. That’s right, every day. Not just a single migraine that lasts a day or two. But multiple migraines that span multiple days.
And this past week, all the supplements, migraine meds and Botox treatment for migraines have begun to take effect. It’s still a daily battle, but the intensity and duration of my migraines has markedly diminished.
I feel like I’ve begun to breathe again! That’s significant.
I went up to Connecticut this past weekend for a visit and lunch with my mother. Her two Persian kittens are a riot and I’ve somehow become the one who clips their nails. I guess I’ve perfected that art with Orpheus after 11+ years and if I can get him to comply, I can get any cat to comply.
In the beginning, Orpheus was super resistant. I literally had to catch him off-guard while he was sleeping and try to get as many nails clipped as I could before he became aware of what was going on. The average was three! It was an all-day endeavor. Good thing he sleeps 80% of the time! Today, he barely notices. One day in the not so distant future, I hope to get Sylvester and Babette to that level of cooperation, too.
The skincare stuff starts here.
I’ve been putting off this blog article about acid toners for a while — hemming and hawing about whether or not I even wanted to write it. There are so many things I love about skincare and how skincare products work with the skin. But there’s one entire skincare habit which, while popular, is quite out of control.
And that’s exfoliation and the overuse of exfoliating treatments.
Unlike so much of what we do for our skin — including moisturizing, cleansing and protecting from sun damage — the one thing skin does pretty well on its own is what’s termed desquamation.
According to the health site Very Well Health:
“Desquamation is the natural process in which skin cells are created, sloughed away, and replaced. The desquamation process happens in the outermost layer of the skin called the epidermis. The epidermis itself has four unique layers. Each of these layers plays a role in desquamation.”
Every skin cell originating in the lower levels of the skin rises to the surface within 28 days, where it’s freed from the body — like pollen gently floating from wild poppy flowers and disappearing into the air over the horizon.
Because the desquamation process is so efficient and methodical, I don’t believe skin needs or can generally tolerate daily exfoliation — whether chemical or physical. Even if your skin tolerates it, it doesn’t need it very often. In fact, our skin doesn’t need us to do anything when it comes to exfoliation.
For the record, I don’t use a chemical exfoliant more than thrice weekly.
That said, the kind of exfoliation you can achieve with popular, iconic products like the Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment helps to speed up the process of desquamation. Doing so, leaves the complexion free of dead skin. Dead skin cells aren’t doing you any favors. Truth is, they’re simply not as reflective as fresh skin, meaning the natural build-up of dead surface skin cells can result in a lackluster complexion. Exfoliating treatments brighten the complexion by immediately removing dead skin cells so skin naturally glows. Even healthy skin can appear dull. And who wants that?
As is the case with skin care in general, not all exfoliating products are good for your skin. In fact, physical exfoliators, or face scrubs, can be quite harmful to the skin and can damage the delicate skin barrier.
If you’re using a face scrub, please stop.
Always a terrific resource for skincare tips, education, insights and guidance, the Paula’s Choice website features an excellent article titled, Exfoliation: The Skin Care Step You Never Knew You Needed.
In the piece, the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team seek to educate on the differences between chemical and physical exfoliation and the dangers of using a scrub.
“Daily, gentle exfoliation with a leave-on product is a complete game-changer for every skin type and skin concern. Adding this one step to your routine is the fastest, most effective way to get radiant, smooth, hydrated, blemish-free, even-toned skin.
“AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) and BHA (beta hydroxy acid) exfoliants help skin shed dead cells more quickly, the way it did before age and environmental factors began to slow that process. These acids are also the gentlest way to exfoliate, and they nourish and transform the look of your skin in ways no brush or scrub can.
“Despite the popularity of facial scrubs, most are too harsh and abrasive; they can cause tiny tears that damage skin over time, even if that damage isn’t immediately visible. Even the best scrubs, while they do have benefits, can’t produce the same results as an AHA or BHA exfoliant.”
While AHA and BHA-powered chemical exfoliators are the best acid treatments available, they’re not always the most gentle. And sometimes are no more exfoliating that a hydrating toner. The potency and efficacy of an acid toner is dependent on the pH level of the formula and which of the six alpha hydroxy acids are being used; the most potent being Glycolic Acid, the least, Mandelic Acid.
Hot in skincare of late is the newest of the hydroxy acid molecules, Poly Hydroxy Acids, or PHAs. PHAs are acids that work more slowly with the skin, meaning they’re more gentle — and more favorable for sensitive skin prone to irritation and redness. If you deal with sensitivity, excessive dryness, eczema or rosacea, a PHA-powered treatment would be your best bet.
I do want to stress that if you’re planning to incorporate an acid toner into your skincare routine, or are using one now, it is not a replacement for a hydrating toner. Don’t be tripped up by the loose marketing term “toner”. Application of an acid toner should immediately follow cleansing and toning — and precede the use of any water-based serums.
With that, let’s take a look at five acid toners that have caught my eye over the last several weeks…
Glow Recipe | Watermelon Glow PHA +BHA Pore-Tight Toner
I’ve long been a fan of Glow Recipe’s clean K-beauty skin care with a twist. A fruit twist, that is. In particular, I love the brand’s Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask and the Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask — which I reviewed in an article titled, Dry Skin Saviors that Keep Skin Perky and Glowy. You can catch it here.
As I recall, the Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask was Glow Recipe’s first-ever product. I know because I scooped up a jar the day it launched. They’ve since gone on to introduce something like 87 watermelon-infused products, including the Pink Juice Oil-Free Moisturizer and Watermelon Glow Ultra-Fine Mist.
Clearly, if you’re a fan of the superbly hydrating, thirst-quenching summer fruit, Glow Recipe owns the market for watermelon skin care.
The newest introduction into Glow Recipe’s juicy watermelon fruit collection is the Watermelon Glow PHA +BHA Pore-Tight Toner — one of the best acid toners for exfoliating the skin.
Umm, let me get one thing out of the way at the outset.
You cannot shrink your pores.
You can’t actually tighten them either. You can make them feel tighter and, with acid exfoliation or a well-formulated Niacinamide serum, you can unclog them so they don’t appear as visible — and aren’t the first thing a date sees from across the room.
Like all of the brand’s watermelon-infused products, the Pore-Tight Toner smells like watermelon, though it’s not nearly as strong as in the other products in the range. I know a lot of people find it too sickly sweet. I’m cool with it though. Pore-Tight Toner is a water-light treatment that also happens to be relatively gentle for an acid toner.
The first thing I notice about the Watermelon Glow PHA +BHA Pore-Tight Toner is that co-founders Christine and Sarah, with whom I worked at L’Oreal, had the smarts to replace useless water in the formula with Cactus Extract — which is far more hydrating for the skin. In fact, water doesn’t offer any benefits to skin beyond a temporary humectant effect.
The second ingredient is the brand’s signature Watermelon Fruit Extract, which is deeply hydrating and loaded with nourishing vitamins and amino acids.
In terms of acids, Glow Recipe opted for Gluconolactone, a gentle PHA that does triple duty as an exfoliant, moisturizer and antioxidant — and which I estimate is at about a 5% concentration. At a pH between 6-7, the Pore-Tight Toner is in the sweet spot for PHA’s to do their thing.
In addition to Gluconolactone, the brand included Willow Bark Extract, a popular, natural form of Salicylic Acid that can penetrate deeply into the pores to flush out dirt, gunk and hardened sebum— precisely what makes pores appear larger than they actually are. Salicylic Acid requires a lower pH to be most effective, but the Pore-Tight Toner seems just right to me.
Not surprisingly, the Watermelon Glow PHA +BHA Pore-Tight Toner is a pleasure to use!
I’m no fan of pink skin care, but I recognize the appeal of the brand’s girlie packaging. Glow Recipe certainly has that in spades — and it’s paid off for them, too.
Funny, I rarely tell this story but pink packaging was the final motivation for me to launch the Skincarma Blog in the first place. I had been scrolling my personal Instagram feed one morning three years ago when I came across a shelfie comprised of all pink products.
As if pink somehow indicated that the product was good for the skin. Seriously?! Not only did the poster of the shelfie seem to believe that, but her followers did too. The praising comments made me sick. I was mortified, but not surprised. That’s the raw power of big beauty marketing working as intended.
At least if the packaging is pretty, what’s inside ought to be good for your skin. And I have to say, Glow Recipe’s Watermelon Glow PHA +BHA Pore-Tight Toner is quite pro-skin health. It’s got a gentle exfoliating effect, and an extreme hydrating benefit, too.
About tightening those pores, though? That’s just as nonsensical as pink packaging…
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA +BHA Pore-Tight Toner for $34 here.
Saturday Skin | Pore Clarifying Toner 10% Glycolic Acid + Pore Control Complex
If the Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA +BHA Pore-Tight Toner belies its shallow, pretty-in-pink packaging with a good-for-skin treatment, Saturday Skin’s Pore Clarifying Toner 10% Glycolic Acid + Pore Control Complex lives up to the silliness — and nothing more.
There’s so much wrong with this acid toner I was afraid to use it on my face. It can in no way be described as one of the best AHA toners for face; in fact, it may be one of the worst. With something that could best be described as skincare terror, after using it on my face just once, I opted to test it on my arms and hands instead.
To start, it’s got a 10% level of Glycolic Acid, the strongest and harshest of the AHAs. While that may sound potent and even appealing to some, the formulation can’t deliver the exfoliating benefits of Glycolic Acid. Not even close.
Why? Because it’s got a pH level between 5-6. The ideal pH level for Glycolic Acid to work its magic is around pH 3.5. In fact, at a pH 7.0, 100% of the Glycolic Acid is neutralized to salt.
So with a pH of around 5.5 in my estimation, the Saturday Skin Pore Clarifying Toner delivers barely any exfoliating benefit to the skin.
Oddly, it feels gentle on the skin. And that’s mainly because the Glycolic Acid has been neutered. It feels more like a conventional hydrating toner.
Except it doesn’t even do that very well.
The relatively inactive glycolic isn’t the only thing wrong with the formula — and it’s almost a good thing that the pH level isn’t below 4, where the Glycolic Acid would be a potent, effective exfoliant for the skin. Were it so, the irritation the formula would likely induce would be awful.
The Saturday Skin formula contains a slew of fragrant plant oils that on a normal day and in just about any skincare product can be potential irritants. Among them are known skin irritants Orange Peel Oil, Grapefruit Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Leaf Oil, and perhaps the worst for skin — Lavender Oil.
Who’s the fool who formulated this stuff?
Combined, the Saturday Skin formula’s complex of fragrances is likely at about 10% of the formula — on par with its weak Glycolic Acid component.
Interestingly, Saturday Skin got something right: the inclusion of multiple peptides. There are actually seven peptides in the formula — the last seven ingredients in the INCI. Bravo to the chemist!
As for the brand’s claim of pore control, I can’t vouch for that since I was afraid to use it on my face. What a sad, sad Selfcare Saturday this product makes…
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Saturday Skin Pore Clarifying Toner 10% Glycolic Acid + Pore Control Complex for $30 here.
Farmacy | Deep Sweep 2% BHA Pore Cleaning Toner with Moringa + Papaya
Back to sanity, the Farmacy Deep Sweep 2% BHA Pore Cleaning Toner with Moringa + Papaya is a good, clean acid toner — among the best Salicylic Acid treatments for face. It’s a safe-for-skin, refreshing, effective formula and a pleasure to use.
With a 2% concentration of Salicylic Acid and a pH of between 3-4, Farmacy’s BHA toner certainly does what a good acid toner should do. It exfoliates the skin and deep cleans — or make that sweeps — pores, clearing them of any build-up that can stretch them and make them appear more visible.
Again, you cannot shrink your pores; rather, you can clarify them so that they appear smaller in size and aren’t as noticeable on the complexion.
Interestingly in the Deep Sweep formula, situated between water and the 2% concentration of Salicylic Acid, is the amino acid Arginine.
It seems to come outta left field and I’m not quite sure why the Farmacy chemists included it in Deep Sweep, particularly at that level. But I’m glad they did!
Amino acids are really great for the skin. They’re bio-compatible and are the building blocks of peptides and proteins. They can even help maintain hydration levels and promote skin health. Such miracle workers!
What are Amino Acids?
Of course, the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team have the most informed insights on amino acids:
“There are many amino acids, but most scientists agree that there are 20 that are important to our health, divided into two types: essential and non-essential. The “non-essential” term doesn’t mean that those amino acids aren’t important; rather, it means that your body can make them on its own, so it’s not “essential” for you to get them elsewhere, such as from food or supplements.
“Essential” amino acids, on the other hand, are essential because they must be obtained from foods or supplements; a deficiency in even one of them can result in health problems.
“There are nine essential amino acids: histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan, and valine…the 11 non-essential amino acids, which the body can make on its own, include alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, proline, serine, and tyrosine.”
Beyond the intriguing inclusion of Arginine in the INCI, there are numerous nourishing ferments and botanical actives in Deep Sweep, including Lactobacillus/Papaya Fruit Ferment Extract, Moringa Oleifera Leaf Water and Extract and Radish Root Ferment Filtrate. There’s also a hint of PHA Gluconolactone, a naturally occurring antioxidant with gentle exfoliating benefits.
Notably missing from the formula are any known skin irritants like denatured alcohol, synthetic preservatives, fragrance or fragrant plant oils. I’ve been really into Farmacy’s Deep Sweep and had been reaching for it whilst testing it 2-3 times a week, especially on notably hot, humid days.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Farmacy Deep Sweep 2% BHA Pore Cleaning Toner with Moringa + Papaya for $28 here.
*WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF SOME OF THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
Beauty Bay | Acid Trip Exfoliating Toner
The Beauty Bay Acid Trip Exfoliating Toner is not the best acid toner for exfoliating and brightening the skin, but it’s not the worst either. (I’ve reserved that distinction for the Saturday Skin Pore Clarifying Toner 10% Glycolic Acid + Pore Control Complex!)
Beauty Bay’s Acid Trip has a relatively tight INCI with 15 ingredients in all — some good, some not so good.
With a pH that I estimate to be between 3-4, the formula is right in the sweet spot for optimal acid efficacy of its AHA’s — and you can certainly feel it in action. Don’t let that frighten you. The first time I tried it, I applied it the same day I’d shaven and it really packed a punch!
Acid Trip contains a complex of AHA’s, including Glycolic, Lactic and Citric Acids, totaling about 10-12% of the formula.
There’s also a healthy amount of PHA Gluconolactone — with its exfoliating, moisturizing and antioxidant benefits.
The only real drawback to the formula is the inclusion of Sweet Orange Peel Oil, Witch Hazel Leaf Extract and Limonene, all three of which have the potential to irritate the skin. And that’s a shame in a potent acid toner with a true exfoliating benefit. Glycolic Acid, in particular, can be highly sensitizing. (I’m speaking from first hand experience here, even on days that I' haven’t shaven!)
The last thing you want when using an acid toner is known irritants like fragrance in the formula. That said, it irritated my skin as I’d expect any potent Glycolic Acid treatment to do.
If your skin tolerates Glycolic Acid well, it will very likely also tolerate the low level of fragrance in Beauty Bay’s Acid Trip exfoliating toner.
About that Witch Hazel.
The common astringent has long gotten a pass in skin care. In fact, it’s not very good for the skin long-term.
Witch Hazel has often been compared to alcohol in skin care and is purported to be a more gentler astringent. It’s a favorite of big beauty marketers because it’s cheap and has a soothing, astringent effect on the skin that gives the illusion that the product is doing something. Marketers love when consumers thing the product is working. Sadly, that something is often irritation in action.
The experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team rate witch hazel among the worst ingredients for the skin.
What is witch hazel?
Witch hazel is a…
“commonly used plant extract that can have potent antioxidant properties and some soothing properties. However, witch hazel’s high tannin content (tannin is a potent antioxidant) can also make it sensitizing if used repeatedly on skin. The bark of the witch hazel plant has a higher tannin content than the leaves. Producing witch hazel water by steam distillation removes the tannins, but the plant’s astringent qualities are what most believe give it benefit.
Alcohol is added during the distillation process, the amount typically being 14–15%. Witch hazel water is distilled from all parts of the plant; therefore, you never know exactly what you’re getting, although the alcohol content remains.
Depending on the form of witch hazel, you’re exposing your skin either to a sensitizing amount of alcohol or to tannins, or both. Moreover, witch hazel contains the fragrance chemical eugenol, which is another source of sensitivity. For a deeper dive into the research on witch hazel, see our in-depth analysis here.
So, again, Acid Trip is a mixed bag. It certainly has the oomph you want in an acid toner; but if your skin is sensitive or easily sensitized like mine, it’s not the best option. But for $8 for 5 oz. (150mL), it’s certainly tempting.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Beauty Bay Acid Trip Exfoliating Toner for $8 here.
Paula’s Choice | Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
And so, admittedly, I’ve saved the best for last — as I am often wont to do. Quiet simply, the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is the OG of exfoliating acid toners — and the very first that I ever used.
I’d venture to say that it’s Paula’s best selling treatment. Many people swear by the stuff. It’s just that good. Newsflash: Earlier today, I coincidentally received an email from Paula’s Choice touting the fact that one Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is sold every sixty seconds! Funny, when I was at Kiehl’s the marketers used to say that one Lip Balm #1 one was sold every minute. I wonder of those are the same people!?
With a pH of about 4, Paula’s Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is in the optimal range for the formula’s Salicylic Acid to work wonders both on and in the skin.
It’s also a relatively simple formula — with just eight ingredients in all. Among them, is a two-percent concentration of tried-and-true, clogged pore-busting Salicylic Acid; power antioxidant Green Tea Leaf Extract; and hydrating Methylpropanediol — which enhances the penetration of the Salicylic Acid into the skin.
What is Salicylic Acid?
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Salicylic Acid is among the best ingredients for promoting skin health:
“Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, which is a desmolytic ingredient. That means it targets certain protein bonds in skin, known as desmosomes, that keep dead cells clinging to skin instead of sloughing off. Skin’s natural shedding process can become faulty due to age, sun damage, and problems like acne and excess oil. Exfoliating helps restore this natural ability.
“Salicylic acid is unique because it not only loosens the bonds between dead skin on the surface but also deep in the pore lining, where spent cells mix with oil and debris, becoming trapped below the surface. Left unchecked, all this buildup leads to dull, rough skin and clogged pores, setting the stage for blackheads and bumps.
“Compared to water-soluble alpha hydroxy acids, this type of acid is oil soluble, so it’s able to get through the oil, thinning it so it can flow freely to skin’s surface where your cleanser washes it away. Its oil-soluble nature makes it preferred for oily, breakout-prone skin, and it’s why medicated salicylic acid products for acne work so well; however, all skin types can benefit from this ingredient.”
Even if your skin isn’t oily or acne-prone, Salicylic Acid is a wonderful active for enhancing skin health. I use a Salicylic Acid treatment regularly along with my daily Niacinamide serum.
The combination works effectively to flush out my pores and keep my complexion looking bright. It prevents those large pores on my nose from appearing any larger than they need to.
If you aren’t incorporating a Salicylic Acid treatment into your daily regimen, the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is the ideal way to do so. Get yourself a bottle and slot it into your AM and/or PM routine right after cleansing and toning — before the application of water-based serums.
Trust me, you’ll see a difference within days…
SHOP THE BLOG: For a limited time, purchase the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant for $25.07 here. (Regular price $29.50)
That’s it guys! I hope you’ve learned something you didn’t know about the value of additional exfoliation and the process of desquamation. If you incorporate an acid toner into your routine, take it easy — and remember that it’s not a replacement for a hydrating toner. Monitor your skin and don’t ever be hesitant to dial things back, as I regularly do.
And, be sure to enter my late summer giveaway for a chance to win the OG acid toner — the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant!
For details, see just below…
🖤 SKINCARMA
*WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF SOME OF THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
The Ingredient List of the Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA +BHA Pore-Tight Toner:
The Ingredient List of the Saturday Skin Pore Clarifying Toner 10% Glycolic Acid + Pore Control Complex:
Saturday Skin Pore Clarifying Toner 10% Glycolic Acid + Pore Control Complex
The Ingredient List of the Farmacy Deep Sweep 2% BHA Pore Cleaning Toner with Moringa + Papaya:
Farmacy Deep Sweep 2% BHA Pore Cleaning Toner with Moringa + Papaya