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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

THE BEST BRIGHTENING SERUMS TO EVEN OUT SKIN TONE AND LIGHT UP YOUR COMPLEXION
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I’m finally sensing a light at the end of the tunnel. I ventured outside the Brooklyn borders twice this week — for the first time in more than two months. I literally took two separate trips to Connecticut to visit my mother, to just get away from here.

She lives five minutes from the ocean and the ocean breeze felt like it was whisking away months of buildup — emotional strain, physical stress and utter disorientation.

She has these two beautiful Persian kittens, Sylvester and Babette, that just delight your soul. I felt a little sad being away from Orpheus — but he was asleep most of the six or so hours I was away anyway and probably barely noticed I was gone. Funny, the second I walked in the door, Orpheus was like “what’s that smell?!” Oops!

So, the literal and figurative “breath of fresh air” has lifted my spirits and restored some sense of my pre-pandemic past life. I know we’re all craving that. As I said last week, our individual mental health is crucial to recovering. While most of us have escaped Covid intact, we’re all mentally scarred by the experience to some degree.

And of course, a trip to Connecticut wouldn’t be complete without my cherished Connecticut lobster roll!

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But perhaps the highlight of the week was the fact that I completed Deepak Chopra’s 21-day meditation challenge! I went from never having meditated a day in my life to doing it every day for three weeks straight. That’s pretty cool. Now, I have to stick with it, maybe find other meditation exercises I can use to refresh my mind and reboot my spirit. Hey, if you have any ideas for daily meditation, perhaps your personal experience, please drop thoughts in the comments below. I would appreciate your suggestions!

On top of my daily yoga and numerous baked masterpieces, I feel like I’ve achieved what I set out to do at the start of this whole nightmare. That is, to have positive memories of the experience as well.

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Now, when I look back on the spring of 2020 during the spring of 2030, I can say it was the period in which I began to meditate, do yoga each day, and really learned how to bake.

Oh, I know what you’re thinking. So what did you bake this week, Carmine?

Well, I baked a Japanese soufflé pancake, another apple cobbler, made a fresh batch of oatmeal coconut cookies for my mom — and a homemade pizza.

Last night, I thought to myself that I’d finally mastered the homemade pizza sufficiently that it’s just as good as delivery from Not Ray’s — the iconic Fort Greene pizzeria up the block from me. (I may have been just a little high on the medical marijuana, come to think of it.)

The skincare stuff starts here.

I know that what’s you're here for: skin care. I am, too! But if you noticed how bright and clear my complexion appears in the photo with Sylvester above, you’re onto something. I’ve been playing around with brightening products and the experiment has really lit up my complexion.

In fact, one of my favorite people in the world mentioned the other day that my skin looks as clear as glass. I can’t shout her out because she’d kill me. Suffice to say any time I hear the Bowie song The Jean Genie, I think of her.

But that compliment was such a cool moment for me because I’ve always wanted to achieve what the Koreans refer to as yuri pibu — or glass skin.

There’s an excellent article titled, A 7-Step Guide to Glowing “Glass Skin” From a K-Beauty Insider here. Essentially, glass skin is a bright, clear, reflective complexion. It’s what every Korean woman strives for. For the record, I’m not a Korean woman. But I do appreciate their yuri pibu more than words can express.

There was a time not too long ago where if you wanted something to brighten your complexion, it was called a flashlight. Not any more! There are numerous face brightening serums on the market today that actually move the needle. That is to say, they work.

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These products are powered by brightening actives and technologies that really weren’t available previously. Some of them are familiar to most of us, like Vitamin C and even Vitamin B3, Niacinamide.

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But there are new brightening actives on the scene today, among them Azelaic Acid and Tranexamic Acid, that weren’t available in facial skincare products until very recently. And if they were, they were out of reach, exclusive to professional grade products available at the dermatologist’s office.

So, I thought it would be cool to share my secrets for obtaining glass skin — and solutions for treating hyperpigmentation, acne marks, dark spots, sun spots.

Speaking of sun spots, none of this matters, none of these products are worth your money if you’re not using a well-formulated, preferable mineral sunscreen each and ever day.

For my the best facial sunscreens check out my most recent recommendations in my article titled, Cool Clean Facial Sunscreens to Keep Us Safe and Smiling in the Sun.

With that, have a look at some of the best brightening serums and innovative spot treatments available today…

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Paula’s Choice | Niacinamide 20% Treatment

Very few of us are lucky enough to have no real pore problem. For most of us, they can easily get clogged, congested and loaded with gunk. As you get older, your pores tend to stretch and sag like the rest of your face. That makes them larger and more prone to trapping dirt, debris and sebum. But clogged pores can be hell at any age.

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The first thing to understand is that you can’t shrink the size of your pores — you can only minimize how large they look to the world you face each day! That’s why you often see brands describe their products as “diminishing the look of pores”. Skincare products don’t shrink pores, they simply make them appear less visible.

The most common question I get in my DM’s and in my IG Live sessions has to do with pores.

How do I keep them from getting clogged? How do I make them look smaller?

The answer is simple: Niacinamide (Vitamin B3). If you aren’t using a Niacinamide treatment, you aren’t effectively treating your pores — and employing one of the best actives for brightening the complexion and achieving the coveted yuri pibu!

When it comes to pores, there is no greater expert than Paula Begoun. Not that she has particular large pores that I know of. But she’s the expert on how to treat pores effectively, to keep them invisible and clear.


What is Niacinamide?

Every time I talk about Niacinamide, I feel the duty to impress upon Skincarma readers the indispensable qualities of Niacinamide and the remarkable benefits that Vitamin B3 can have for the skin.

And, of course, nobody knows more than the experts of the Paula’s Choice Research Team:

“Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid, niacinamide is a very effective skin-restoring ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging and blemish-prone skin. Among these benefits is the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and a weakened skin surface.

Niacinamide can also mitigate and to some extent help visibly repair damage from UV light and offset other sources of environmental attack, including the negative impact of various types of airborne pollutants. Unlike many beneficial ingredients, niacinamide is stable in the presence of heat and light.”


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Paula’s Choice was the first to come to market with what I consider the OG Niacinamide serum with 10% of the vitamin. So I was crazy excited when Paula’s namesake brand came out with Niacinamide 20% Treatment.

The new Niacinamide 20% Treatment is a “highly concentrated niacinamide (vitamin B3) serum that effectively tightens and minimizes the look of sagging pores and rough bumps caused by age or sun damage.”

Two small drops 2x daily does the trick. You get the powerful brightening benefit of the Niacinamide, plus the pore-clearing and retextrurizing of Niacinamide at such a high level.

Of course, you don’t need to race out and get the most effective Niacinamide treatment on the market if your concern is the occasional clogged pore. I find that The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is quite effective — particularly for blemish-prone skin. 

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Paula’s Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment for $48 here.



**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF THE BEST BRIGHTENING SERUMS TO EVEN OUT SKIN TONE AND LIGHT UP YOUR COMPLEXION…ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**


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The Ordinary | Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is one of the most unusual and likely most misunderstood skincare products in The Ordinary’s vast catalogue of democratically priced skin care. As big a fan as I am of the brand, even I overlooked this tiny tube of miraculousness.

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Found in grains, Azelaic Acid is produced naturally by bacteria that thrives in our skin’s surface microbiome. It’s somewhat of a miracle worker — with the ability to treat numerous conditions that can leave the complexion appearing lackluster and spotted.

Think of Azelaic Acid as a superior antioxidant that also happens to fade post-acne marks over time. That’s significant and new on the skincare scene.

Many of us, yours truly among them, have those dastardly acne marks that never seem to go away until we forget they’re there. Suddenly, one day months, even years later, they’re gone, right? But it’s nice to now have some control over that prolonged period of time and fuhgeddaboudit mentality.


What’s Azelaic Acid?

“A type of acid known as a dicarboxylic acid derived from grains that offers numerous benefits when applied to skin. For example, it’s a gentle leave-on exfoliant which helps unclog pores and refine skin texture. Azelaic acid also significantly lessens factors in skin that lead to redness and bumps. Azelaic acid is also an antioxidant.

Research has shown azelaic acid can significantly diminish blemishes, help fade the appearance of post-acne red marks and other discolorations, and reduce the kind of skin sensitivity that leads to redness.

Although azelaic acid can be derived from grains like barley, wheat, and rye, its lab-engineered form is typically used in skincare products because of its stability and effectiveness. Because of this, azelaic acid is considered a synthetic ingredient, but this is a clear case where the synthetic version outperforms the natural version, with no research indicating a risk to skin.

Azelaic acid is available in strengths of 10% or less over-the-counter, and in topical prescription products at concentrations between 15-20%.”

- The Paula’s Choice Research Team


The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension is formulated with a ten-percent concentration of the power active. It’s contained in a thick cream form — a silicone “suspension”. If you’re no fan of silicone in your skin care, this isn’t for you. But perhaps, you dislike post-acne marks even more than you dislike silicone. If that’s the case, look no further than this Azelaic Acid treatment.

A dab of this on acne marks twice a day for a week or two and you’ll begin to see your troubles fade before your eyes.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% for $7.90.


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**EXCLUSIVE SKINCARMA GIVEAWAY**

ENTER BELOW FOR A CHANCE TO WIN THE NEW KPS ESSENTIALS RENU LUMIN TREATMENT…AND SEE RESULTS FOR YOURSELF!


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Rohto | Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence

I’ve made no secret of the fact that I’m a big fan of Rohto’s Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk SPF 50. That fantastic, otherworldly sunscreen played the part of sun protection selection in my Complete $100 Skincare Routine a few weeks back. So J-Beauty brand Rohto holds a special place in my heart.

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Rohto is a Japanese health and beauty company with deep science behind iconic brands, among them SkinAqua and Hada Labo — the J-beauty brand behind the cult Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion that I reviewed in my blog article about my winter empties here.

New to the scene is the brand’s Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence. And, like the Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk, it’s got an out-of-this-world texture that makes me suspect it’s formulated with alien technology.

Touted as “ the cult classic and best selling Vitamin C serum from Japan,” Melano CC comes in a long, slender silver tube that looks like something Dr. McCoy would prescribe you on Star Trek for hyperpigmentation resulting from a trip too close to the sun. Inside the mysterious package is a silky, unctuous treatment powered by pure Vitamin C — Ascorbic Acid.

It’s a rather tight ingredient list, comprising just 11 ingredients in all. The straightforward, no-nonsense INCI kicks off with Ascorbic Acid and Tocopherol Acetate, a derivative of moisturizing antioxidant Vitamin E. There’s also a favorite of Asian beauty skincare formulas, Licorice Root Extract.

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The Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence is intended for use as a spot treatment that “fades dark spots, acne scarring, and PIH [post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation], while also fighting against new acne.”

Honestly, it’s a remarkable, and remarkably effective formula that’s oddly a pleasure to use. I’m not sure why. Perhaps it’s the unusual unctuousness. It’s such a cool, innovative product — alien technology or not.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Rohto Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence for $14.95.


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The Inkey List | Tranexamic Acid Hyperpigmentation Treatment

One of the more intriguing new brightening ingredients on the scene is also the hardest to spell, speak and remember: Tranexamic Acid.

To start, Tranexamic Acid, or TXA, comes from the world of medicine where it’s commonly used to help control bleeding after trauma. TXA is a synthetic amino acid derived from lysine that also happens to have a remarkable effect on hyperpigmentation and skin discoloration. Its efficacy is being compared to Hydroquinone, the controversial active that’s commonly misused and misunderstood as a skin bleaching agent.

Over the past year or so, several skincare brands have introduced brightening products powered by Tranexamic Acid. Notably, SkinCeuticals introduced Discoloration Defense — a $98 skin-brightening serum clinically proven to correct dark spots.

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Cosmeceutical brand Murad launched their $65 Replenishing Multi-Acid Peel with a potent complex of AHAs, BHA and TXA. While “faux-cosmeceutical” brand Peter Thomas Roth came out with the $88 PRO Strength Niacinamide Discoloration Treatment, a trio of potent acids for brightening the skin, including Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid and Kojic Acid.

And then there’s democratically priced The Inkey List which recently introduced the Tranexamic Acid Hyperpigmentation Treatment. It’s $14.99.

Tranexamic Acid is so hot now, online beauty site Byrdie recently featured what they consider the best Tranexamic Acid serums for brightening the skin in a piece titled, Tranexamic Acid Is the Newest "It" Acid — Here's What You Should Know, available to read here.


What is Tranexamic Acid?

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic amino acid derived from lysine. Topically, tranexamic acid works by interrupting at least two pathways in skin that, left unchecked, can lead to discolorations, including larger patches known as melasma. Tranexamic acid also seems to work within skin’s surface layers to make skin color less susceptible to UV light exposure (but of course, you still need sunscreen) and may also reduce redness.

Recent, double-blind and comparative research has shown that topical tranexamic acid in amounts between 2-5% rivals results of over-the-counter amounts of hydroquinone, long considered the gold standard for fading skin discolorations. If you’re using a hydroquinone product for lightening, you can add a product with tranexamic acid and potentially see even better results.

Comparative studies have shown tranexamic acid has greater tolerability than hydroquinone, although the latter is generally well tolerated when used as directed.

Research has shown that tranexamic acid is safe when applied to skin every day for several months. Topical concentrations between 2-5% typically shows results after two to three months of once- or twice-daily usage.

Note: Because tranexamic acid is a water soluble ingredient, it needs to be used in skin care products with oil-soluble ingredients designed to improve its penetration into skin.”

- The Paula’s Choice Research Team


Inkey’s Tranexamic Acid Hyperpigmentation Treatment is the most affordable of the numerous recent TXA offerings. Positioned as an overnight treatment, the gel-like serum is formulated with 2% Tranexamic Acid, 2% Açai Berry Extract and 2% Ascorbyl Glucoside — a stable form of Vitamin C that is combined with glucose and converts to Ascorbic Acid in the skin.

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Inkey’s Tranexamic Acid is a relatively simple, clean targeted treatment that helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone when used regularly. The thicker texture allows you to isolate spots on the skin. It’s efficient, effective and affordable — a great place to start if Tranexamic Acid is appealing to you.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Inkey List Tranexamic Acid Hyperpigmentation Treatment for $14.99.


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Banish | Banish Oil Vitamin C Serum

Meet Banish — the first brand I’ve come across that specifically focuses on the treatment of post-acne scars. Banish was founded in 2013 by Daisy Jing, a woman who knows a bit about acne scarring. Daisy struggled with cystic acne throughout her childhood and teen years — and the subsequent mental and physical scarring that resulted from it.

She tried everything, seeking the advice of numerous dermatologists, splurging on skincare that didn’t quite solve the problem, even watching hours and hours of YouTube videos. Until she started her own YouTube channel to help others manage similar skin conditions. The Acne Channel both inspired others and helped Daisy gain the confidence and determination to later create products that target and treat acne marks — products that actually worked. And Banish was born.

The Banish range is a collection of both conventional and unconventional treatments, all of which are intended to target acne marks, erase acne scars, treat uneven skin tone and fade hyperpigmentation. I’ve been exploring the brand and am intrigued by Banish’s innovative solution centered around its Banisher 2.0 device.

Banisher 2.0 is a unique micro-needling tool constructed of 24k gold plated titanium bristles. As with a derma roller, you employ it to prick the skin to enhance the penetration of actives — actives like high-potency pure Vitamin C that help to fade acne marks. It’s kind of genius.

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Unlike an unwieldily derma roller, the Banisher 2.0 allows for more precise, targeted treatment of a specific area of the face. And, unlike a derma roller, it allows for more sustained pressure that, again, targets a specific acne marks, dark spots or patches of hyperpigmentation.

Banish asserts that the Banisher “improves the appearance of acne scars, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles by naturally promoting collagen and skin renewal.

And, just as a conventional derma roller, the Banisher increases the efficacy of topical skin care by enhancing penetration deeper into the skin’s surface.

Banish recommends pairing the Banisher device with the brand’s Banisher Oil, a potent, water-free Vitamin C serum formulated with pure Vitamin C — L-Ascorbic Acid. The unwieldy, notoriously unstable form of Vitamin C is often stabilized in an oil base with a combination of Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E. And Banish did exactly that.

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The Banish Oil is one of the best Vitamin C serums available — a top shelf formulation right up there with Ghost Democracy Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum and The Ordinary’s Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution.

Seriously, it’s that good!

In fact, had I discovered it sooner, it would have made the cut of my top Vitamin C serums in by blog article from March — New Vitamin C Facial Serums I Love but You’ve Probably Never Heard Of!

If you struggle with acne marks, acne scars, dark spots, or visible hyperpigmentation, check out Banish and the brand’s innovative Banisher system.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Banish Oil Vitamin C Serum for $49 here and the Banisher 2.0 micro needling device for $69 here. For limited time, save $5 off with code SKINCARMA.


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KPS Essentials | Renu Lumin

I’ve long been a fan of KPS Essentials, In fact, the brand’s founders Natalie Novak-Bauss and Ron Webb were some of the earliest supporters of Skincarma. I first wrote about the brand in January 2019 in an article titled, Brands I Love and Believe In: KPS Essentials Science-Based Facial Skin Care here.

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I trust Natalie, an oncology aesthetician, and Ron, a rocket scientist, to create really well-formulated skincare. The brand’s Antioxidant Eye Repair Serum remains one of my favorite eye creams of all time!

So, I’m excited to be among the first to try the new KPS Essentials Renu Lumin treatment. Lumin contains KPS’s proprietary barrier-strengthening technology, a blend of organic non-fragrant plant oils, Sodium Hyaluronate, and other botanical extracts that address problem spots on the complexion, dullness, dehydration and multiple signs of aging.

Lumin has a tight ingredient list with just 15 ingredients, the majority of which are organic extracts and oils. Among its high concentration of replenishing plant oils are organic Argan Nut Oil, organic Olive Fruit Oil, and organic Jojoba Seed Oil. In addition, there’s moisturizing Vitamin E and Co-EnzymeQ10 (CoQ10), or Ubiquinone — a potent, bio-compatible antioxidant that’s naturally occurring in the body.


FOR A LIMITED TIME

ENJOY 10% OFF ALL KPS SKINCARE

CLICK HERE AND ENTER CODE SKINCARMA AT CHECKOUT


The Paula’s Choice Research Team describes CoQ10 this way: “also known as ubiquinone, it is a vitamin-like, fat-soluble substance naturally present in the body. A handful of studies have shown that coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) may help improve the appearance of signs of aging.”

“There is also research showing that environmental factors deplete the presence of CoQ10 in the skin. The latest research suggests that topical application of CoQ10 has antioxidant and skin-soothing effects. As such, it is one of many helpful antioxidants for skin, but it is not the only one or the “best.”

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FOR A LIMITED TIME

ENJOY 10% OFF ALL KPS SKINCARE

CLICK HERE AND ENTER CODE SKINCARMA AT CHECKOUT


But perhaps the star ingredient blend in the Lumin formulation is the brand’s signature DermaNu Technology, a complex of actives clinically proven to stimulate the skin’s natural production of Hyaluronic Acid and Chondroitin Sulfate — a mucopolysaccharide that’s one of a group of complex proteins and a component of skin tissue.

KPS’s DermaNu Technology helps fortify the skin barrier by rebuilding the ceramide layer of the skin, enhancing skin’s water reservoir, and preventing TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss).

While the Renu Lumin is helping to maintain hydration levels and strengthen the skin barrier, it also helps diminish visible hyperpigmentation. It’s an excellent, well-rounded treatment, particularly for more mature skin experiencing dryness, dehydration and discolorations.

SHOP THE BLOG: For a limited time, save 10% on all KPS skincare. Purchase the new KPS Essentials Renu Lumin for $117 (reg. $130; with discount $104). Follow this link and enter code SKINCARMA at checkout.


That’s all for this week, guys! I hope you found this helpful in find products that are effective at treating acne marks, fading acne scars and dark spots on the face — and overall uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation. And be sure to enter the giveaway for the KPS Essentials Renu Lumin treatment just below!

See you next week with more news of baked goods and positivity…

🖤 SKINCARMA

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SKINCARMA….

GIVEAWAY!

Enter to win the KPS Essentials Renu Lumin — the newest product from the KPS brand and one of the most innovative, well-rounded anti-aging moisturizers available today. ($130 value)

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 05/31/2020.


**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF THE BEST BRIGHTENING SERUMS TO EVEN OUT SKIN TONE AND LIGHT UP YOUR COMPLEXION…ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**


We’re hanging out and hanging in there.

We’re hanging out and hanging in there.

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The Ingredient List of the Paula’s Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment:

The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of the Rohto Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence:

Active Ingredients: Ascorbic Acid aox|sb|buff, Tocopheryl Acetate aox 0 0, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate so|h, Thymol
Inactive Ingredients: Water solv, Ascorbyl Palmitate aox 0 2, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Alpinia Katsumadai Seed Extract, Butylene Glycol h|solv|vc 0 1, Edta chel, Viscosity Modifiers, Fragrance perf
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of The Inkey List Tranexamic Acid Hyperpigmentation Treatment:

The Ingredient List of the Banish Oil Vitamin C Serum:

The Ingredient List of the KPS Essentials Renu Lumin:

Water, *Argania Spinosa (Argan) Nut Oil, *Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, *Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba Seed) Oil, Steric Acid, phenylalanine, *Echinacea Angustifolia Extract, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronic Acid, Lupinus Albus Extract, Co-EnzymeQ10, *Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate HCl *Proprietary Blend of Essential Oils *Organic Ingredients

PRODUCT REVIEW: THE INKEY LIST 15% VITAMIN C AND EGF BRIGHTENING SERUM - ONE OF THE BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS

PRODUCT REVIEW: THE INKEY LIST 15% VITAMIN C AND EGF BRIGHTENING SERUM - ONE OF THE BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS

PRODUCT REVIEW: ROHTO HADA LABO HYALURONIC ACID LOTION - CULT FAVORITE J-BEAUTY TONER FOR DEHYDRATED SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: ROHTO HADA LABO HYALURONIC ACID LOTION - CULT FAVORITE J-BEAUTY TONER FOR DEHYDRATED SKIN