BRANDS I LOVE: BIOPHILE AWARD-WINNING PROBIOTIC SKINCARE AND THE BEST FACIAL SERUM TO SUPPORT SKIN’S MICROBIOME
Orpheus loves living in Brooklyn even more than I do!
A year ago, I started paying serious attention to fermentation in skin care. While it’s a relatively new phenomenon on the US beauty scene, fermented products have long been popular in A-beauty.
Japanese skincare brand SK-II’s fermented pitera broth is a skincare icon — and the brand’s $185 Facial Treatment Essence seems worth its weight in gold. (It is not; but it’s still good stuff!)
Korean skincare brand Whamisa’s deliciously pulpy, fermented Organic Flowers Toner Deep Rich is one of my favorite products ever. If you haven’t tried it, you need to. It’s the perfect treatment for use in the 7-Skin Method, too.
Right under our noses is an American skincare icon powered by fermented ingredients, Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair. And, of course, there’s its infamous K-beauty dupe, the Missha Time Revolution Night Repair, which I reviewed in my blog article titled, A Complete K-Beauty Routine here.
Funny, looking back at that article, I just now realize that four of the seven products in the regimen are powered by fermented actives. So yeah it’s all about fermentation!
While fermentation is seemingly hot in skincare, the art of fermentation dates to the Roman Empire and even earlier. Like a lot of people, I love grape juice; but guess what! Wine is actually a healthier option — with potent antioxidant activity.
Fermented ingredients are often richer in vitamins, peptides, enzymes and probiotics derived from the microorganisms creating the fermentation to begin with.
But none of that goodness has any value for the skin if it it can’t get past skin’s defensive barrier — which is constructed to keep most things (good and bad!) from entering the body. The skin barrier is like the defense shields that envelope the Starship Enterprise. Break through that shield and not even Scotty can help you!
The great challenge for chemists and formulators is getting past the skin barrier to deliver pro-skin health actives to the inner skin layers.
Alison Cutlan, founder of Biophile.
And that’s what makes fermentation in skin care so intriguing. Fermentation breaks down active substances into smaller parts. Not only are ferments more nutritious for skin, but they enhance penetration of actives into and through the skin barrier — right past the Enterprise’s shields!
How do I know that?
I learned it from a scientist. But not just any scientist; one who knows the intricacies of the skin barrier and how ingredients work with, and in, the skin.
I’ve learned that and more from the founder of Biophile Skincare, including the vital importance of skin’s microbiome to skin health. Based right here with me in Brooklyn, Biophile is the brainchild of Alison Cutlan — a brilliant biologist and former colleague of mine from Kiehl’s.
Alison and I have been spending a lot of time together the past few weeks and every time we meet up, I feel like I’m in science class. In fact, we recently filmed a wonderful session in her Biophile labs in which we talk in depth about the skin barrier and how ingredients penetrate the skin barrier — why they do, and why they don’t.
You can catch it on my YouTube channel here.
Alison and I talking skin barrier function in the Biophile labs!
Alison introduced her futuristic, fermentation-powered skincare brand in the fall of 2019 — just a few months ago. And it’s come at exactly the right time…
Meet Biophile!
Biophile offers an ultra clean range of products formulated with unique bio-fermented broths that Alison calls “Biotic Broths™”. These innovative concoctions are made from a blend of probiotic bacteria and plant extracts.
Nutrient dense, probiotic, and active, the Biophile broths are not just an “ingredient,” they’re actually the water phase of the products themselves. Water in skin care has zero benefits on the skin. Simply, the molecular structure of water means that it cannot pass the skin barrier. So what’s the point of using water in a skincare formula then?
Alison shared with me the reasoning behind it:
“Water is essential to dissolve water-based ingredients in a formula and carry them to the skin (and necessary in making emulsions, of course). However at 60% or higher in formulations, this mere (and cheap!) carrier is a wasted opportunity to create something more nutritious for the skin.
“I create 100% active products and that means that the ‘water' has to work for your skin too. Our Biotic Broths are made by combining liquid extracts from plants/fungi and superfoods along with probiotic bacteria in a unique fermentation process. The result is a liquid full of aminos, vitamins, polysaccharides and lactic acid that all nourish the skin and its microbiome AND the fermented plant extracts now have higher potency and penetration into the skin.
“It’s like drinking a glass of water versus a bone broth or a concentrated probiotic drink. You're still getting your liquids, but the broth will nourish your body SO much more!”
By opting for nutrient-rich fermented broths in place of useless water, Alison supercharged Biophile’s formulas to maximize the nutritive benefits for the skin and its microbiome — and to amp up the efficacy of her products.
Made in small-batch quantities in Biophile’s Gowanus, Brooklyn lab, the initial three products are a gentle, skin-refining essence; a concentrated, mushroom-powered serum; and a nourishing, fermented treatment oil.
And just like baking a cake (make that a cupcake!), the ingredients are everything. With the power to enhance penetration into the skin barrier, it’s essential to get the formulas just right.
And Alison is highly selective — even obsessive — about the kinds of ingredients she uses for each formula.
Biophile products are made in small-batch quantities — with formula date and notebook reference number on the labels.
“I am an ingredient nerd! I’ve always preferred natural, nature-identical ingredients that work well with the skin. In my time developing advanced skincare for others, I was notorious for packing formulas full of actives! With Biophile I wanted to push the boundaries and formulate in a new way — to create advanced, microbiome friendly formulas that are synergistic and BIOLOGICAL in nature.
What does that mean? It means several things:
1). That the backbone of my formulas is ingredients made through living microoganisms (made through fermentation). This includes our broths, fermentation actives, and sustainable biotech ingredients.
2). That every ingredient must have a biological benefit for the skin (my thickener is a pre-biotic, my pH adjuster is wound healing amino acid) — and I like to use ingredients found in the skin.
3.) The formulas must nourish the skin's microbiome. So that means I use ingredients that are microbiome friendly and don’t use ingredients that disrupt it — no preservatives, no harsh ingredients or toxic compounds, ever.
I like to say that I create skincare ‘by the living for the living’. Current skin research is uncovering just how important our microbiomes are to skin protection, vitality and youth. Biological formulating means they are super clean, sustainable and are more effective because they speak your skin’s language. This is what I want to use, what works and what I believe in… knowing it’s still an experimental process.”
Alison’s musings in the Biophile Gowanus, Brooklyn labs.
What is the microbiome?
I found an insightful article on the NIH website simply titled, The Skin Microbiome. This segment is helpful in understanding what the skin’s microbiome is and its role in the health of the skin:
An enhanced understanding of the skin microbiome is necessary to gain insight into microbial involvement in human skin disorders and to enable novel promicrobial and antimicrobial therapeutic approaches for their treatment.
The skin is an ecosystem composed of 1.8 m2 of diverse habitats with an abundance of folds, invaginations and specialized niches that support a wide range of microorganisms. The primary role of the skin is to serve as a physical barrier, protecting our bodies from potential assault by foreign organisms or toxic substances. The skin is also an interface with the outside environment and, as such, is colonized by a diverse collection of microorganisms — including bacteria, fungi and viruses.
Just how good are the Biophile formulas? Well, just weeks after the brand launched, Biophile’s Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum was named “Best Face Serum” by the trend authorities at Indie Beauty — the company behind the bi-annual Indie Beauty Expo in New York and Los Angeles, as well as the Beauty Independent website.
If that sounds familiar to you, it may be because I’ve mentioned Beauty Independent in the past. That’s where I discovered several of the most groundbreaking clean beauty brands of 2019 — including Solara Suncare, Codex Beauty, and plastic-free Ethique, all of which I’ve reviewed on my blog.
And now Biophile!
I’m so inspired by what Alison has created and look forward to what she’s got brewing next! Let’s take a look at the breakthrough Biophile products…
Biophile | Root Bionic Refining Essence
Biophile’s Root Bionic Refining Essence is a concentrated treatment that helps to deeply hydrate, smooth, and refine skin texture.
Root Bionic Refining Essence is considered step one in Biophile’s three-step regimen.
Ninety-one percent fermentation-derived, it’s formulated with what the brand calls its roots biotic broth™ — a rich, bio-fermented blend of burdock, ginger and licorice root extracts.
The lightweight, watery treatment has a gentle exfoliating effect on the skin that’s ideal for daily use to refine the complexion without overdoing it — something that can lead to sensitization. If you’re in the habit of using a more powerful AHA-powered acid toner, you know what I’m talking about.
In addition to Alison’s proprietary fermented broth, the Root Bionic formula contains three humectants, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid, to help hydrate skin and prevent needless water loss.
About that gentle exfoliation. It’s achieved by the inclusion of Willow Bark Extract, a natural substance that’s metabolized in the body to create Salicylic Acid, as well as two Polyhydroxy Acids — Lactobionic Acid and Gluconolactone.
PHA’s are increasingly finding their way into skin care. Along with Bakuchiol, PHA’s were the rockstar ingredients of 2019. I consider them the kinder, gentler siblings of the more popular and far more potent AHAs, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid.
The Biophile refining essence is super lightweight — nearly as light as water — and very easily layered. Since it’s clean and bio-fermented, it’s one of the best exfoliating treatments I’ve come across.
Root Bionic Refining Essence was an award nominee for best sustainable packing at the 2019 IndieBeautyExpo.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Biophile Root Bionic Refining Essence for $78 here.
OR, YOU MAY JUST WIN IT!
Scroll to the bottom of the page for details on the Skincarma x Biophile exclusive giveaway and enter for a chance to win the complete range of Biophile’s fermented skin care!
WATCH AS ALISON AND I TALK ABOUT THE SKIN BARRIER AND INGREDIENT PENETRATION IN OUR SERIES
SKINCARMA X BIOPHILE: STRAIGHT FROM THE LAB
NOW PLAYING ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.
Biophile | Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum
Biophile’s award-winning Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum is perhaps the star of the three-product range. There’s just something that seems so otherworldly about this serum! And that’s precisely the reason it was awarded the 2019 Indie Beauty Expo “best in show serum”.
Ninety-percent fermentation-derived, the Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum is powered by another of the brand’s unique, proprietary roots biotic broths™.
In this case, the broth is a blend of Chaga, Reishi and Tremella Mushroom extracts that “are bio-processed with multi-strain probiotic bacteria to create a unique fermentation broth rich in adaptogens, antioxidants, lactic acid and hydrating fungal polysaccharides to feed the skin while supporting the barrier and biome.”
You see what I mean! How much more pro-skin health can you get?
I love the pulpy deliciousness of the Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum!
The Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum has a slightly pulpy, amber formula that feels like liquid silk on the skin. It’s intended to calm reactive skin and protect against environmental stress.
The serum is infused with protective antioxidant vitamins, including both Niacinamide and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid — a relatively stable form of Vitamin C that’s close in molecular weight to pure Vitamin C and has a visible brightening benefit on the skin. In case you missed it, I spoke in depth about Ethyl Ascorbic Acid on my blog last week in which I reviewed The Ordinary’s Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution.
Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum has a slightly pulpy, amber formula that feels like liquid silk
Perhaps one of the most intriguing actives in Biophile’s Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum formula is Acetyl-Glucosamine (NAG) — a component of polysaccharides in our cells that helps to stimulate the production of Hyaluronic Acid in the skin.
I have never once come across a brand or skincare product that talks about stimulating skin’s own Hyaluronic Acid. IMO that’s true innovation! Beam me up, Scotty!
Also included in the serum concoction is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, a smaller molecular peptide that is believed to have the unique ability to enhance skin firmness.
Biophile says it “can activate the body’s own Tissue Growth Factor (TGF-B) and stimulate collagen synthesis in fibroblast cells.” I love dope science.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Biophile Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum for $148 here.
The Biotic Broth for Biophile’s Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum.
Biophile | Bio Barrier Nourishing Oil
When fall hits and the cold, chilly air sets in, one of my favorite treats is a good facial oil. In fact, I’m no fan of winter and there are only two things I look forward to between November and March — basketball season and facial oil season.
And quite fortuitously, I discovered both Biophile and the brand’s Bio Barrier Nourishing Oil at the start of the holidays, just as the bottom fell out of the weather in New York City and temps began to drop.
The Biophile Bio Barrier Nourishing Oil is 82% fermentation-derived and powered by fermented Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Seed Oil. Biophile says it’s “a unique fermented oil with amplified nutrition, moisturization, and antioxidant power than conventional oil.”
Bio Barrier Nourishing Oil is a relatively lightweight, velvety oil that has no greasy feel and is more reminiscent of a dry oil — though it’s not exactly a dry oil. It feels super nourishing. And that’s because it is!
The first ingredient in the INCI is Squalane — one of my favorite non-fragrant plant oils that’s bio-compatible, meaning the skin recognizes it. In fact, there’s a power blend of superb plant oils, in addition to both Squalane and the brand’s fermented Green Tea Seed Oil. Next is antioxidant powerhouse Grape Seed Oil as well as Sacha Inchi Seed Oil and Rosehip Seed Oil — which I consider the best anti-aging plant oil for use in skin care.
The Bio Barrier formula also features moisturizing Vitamin E and Vitamin C in the form of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, or THD — a stable, fat soluble form of the vitamin.
One of the more intriguing actives in this particular formula is Shizandra Berry Extract. Yeah, I had to look this one up as I’ve never heard of it! And good thing I did.
Schizandra (or Schisandra) is a fruit extract used in traditional Chinese medicine to treat liver conditions and stomach disorders — and it’s often found in a medicinal tonic that helps improve vitality.
“Also called the ‘five flavor berry’, oil soluble extracts from this ancient adaptogen have been shown to restructure and reinforce the Dermo Epithelial Junction (DEJ), thereby increasing skin firmness, elasticity and tone.” - Biophile
And just how unique is this bio-fermented oil? Biophile recommends using it on moist skin for an “enhanced balm-like effect.” When you do, you’ll see just how remarkable the formula is. Your skin feels like it’s cocooned.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Biophile Bio Barrier Nourishing Oil for $118 here.
That’s it guys! I hope you’ll have a look at Biophile — and that you, too, begin to recognize the very legitimate benefits of fermentation in skin care. It’s one of the most pro-skin health trends in skin care today.
Be sure to check out the details of the Skincarma x Biophile giveaway — and don’t miss the first in our collaborative series “Straight from the Lab” on my YouTube channel here.
🖤 SKINCARMA
WATCH AS ALISON AND I TALK ABOUT THE SKIN BARRIER AND INGREDIENT PENETRATION IN OUR SERIES
SKINCARMA X BIOPHILE: STRAIGHT FROM THE LAB
NOW PLAYING ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.
SKINCARMA….
GIVEAWAY!
Enter to win Biophile’s Explorer Trio collection – the perfect introduction to the Biophile system of highly active, fermented skincare. Includes TSA-approved travel sizes of all three Biophile products. ($125 value)
Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to my Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 03/08/2020.
What a life!
The Ingredient List of the Biophile Root Bionic Refining Essence:
Bifida/Lactobacillus/Arcticum Lappa (Burdock)/Zingiber Officinalis (Ginger)/ Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Ferment Lysate Filtrate*, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Gluconolactone*, Propanediol*, Lactobionic Acid*, Betaine, Sodium Lactate*, Glycerin, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Inulin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Sodium Hyaluronate*, Aqua, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, L-arginine
*91% bio made (fermentation derived)
The Ingredient List of the Biophile Bio-Shroom Rejuvenating Serum:
so|h, Propanediol solv|h, Niacinamide 
cci|sb|aacne|h, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid aox|sb, Betaine h, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Acetyl Glucosamine sii|sb, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 cci, Inulin , Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide surf, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Sodium Polyglutamate h, Maltodextrin, Biosaccharide Gum-1 so|h, Leuconostoc Radish Root Ferment amic|pres, DL-Panthenol so|h 0 0, L-Arginine sii, Aqua solv, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Phytic Acid sb|chel, Sclerotium Gum vc, Glucomannan* hThe Ingredient List of the Biophile Bio Barrier Nourishing Oil:
Squalane*, Pseudozyma Epicola/ Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil^, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil^, Plukenetia Volubilis (Sacha Inchi) Seed Oil^, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil^, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Schizandra Chinensis (Schisandra) Fruit Extract, Glycolipids*, Tocopherol, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil^, Vanilla Planifolia (Vanilla) Extract^
*82% bio made (fermentation derived) | ^Organic
