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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD FLAVANONE MUD (FM) - BEST DETOXIFYING MASK, BEST CLAY MASK

NIOD | FLAVANONE MUD

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Be sure to catch my full NIOD brand review titled, Brands I Love: Niod High-Science Skincare - Best Hyaluronic Acid Serum, Best Peptide Serum. You can catch the full piece here.

Deciem’s deep-science brand NIOD has been a longtime favorite. In fact, it’s perhaps the most scientific skincare brand I’ve come across — with product names and descriptions seemingly written by the scientists and chemists behind the brand’s formulations.

There’s always been something exceptionally intriguing about NIOD — the nerdier sister brand of the more popular The Ordinary. First and foremost, it’s a smart, hard science brand — not for the casual skincare user. The products are more scientific, more potent and more costly than the democratically priced, simple, one-note products offered by The Ordinary.

NIOD requires somewhat of a commitment to learning what ingredients work for your skin; it’s definitely not for beginners or anyone uninterested in much beyond the basics of cleansing and moisturizing.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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I have always strongly aligned with the brand’s overall formulation philosophy. A brand's formulation philosophy matters to the end result, whether the product is genuinely good for your skin — and not just marketing fluff. And while most skincare brands offer some well-made products, which of their products are actually doing right by your skin comes down to who exactly is formulating the company’s skin care — and whether the formulator (often a chemist or someone who works closely with a chemist) follows a solid formulation philosophy. Does the chemist follow strict guidelines about ingredient no-no’s like denatured alcohol, parabens and fragrant plant (essential) oils that can compromise skin health and can actually be pro-aging? 

NIOD seems exceptional to me, or as Deciem would describe it, abnormal! 

So, what exactly is NIOD? The brand name is an acronym that stands for Non Invasive Options in Dermal-Science. This is how they describe themselves:

“Ahead is not further than behind.

True learning is a form of love — it is humble. It respects that to look forward, it must look backward. The few observers of NIOD’s childhood know that NIOD isn’t a brand. It is a force and it has a soul. While NIOD’s genetics are committed to science, its soul is ultimately rooted in learning. Perhaps the only flaw of modern science is that it grows proud and loses respect for our deserving past — but learning stays humble and looks back.

NIOD’s journey will offer respect to our past with a series of formulations informally called yešti. NIOD’s caretakers live with exhausting standards in science. The journey of NIOD’s yešti formulations is not one of a lower standard — it is instead one that allows our collective past an overdue chance to speak.”

— http://niod.com

I love the spirit and intent behind the NIOD brand! Let’s take a look at some of my favorite NIOD products…

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NIOD | Flavanone Mud

I’ve been a big fan of the NIOD Flavanone Mud for years now. While FM is one of the best clay masks for skin, Deciem would prefer you didn’t actually refer to it as a clay mask at all.

“Flavanone Mud is a three-phase rinse-off decongestion system that disrupts neither the skin surface equilibrium nor its density. While FM can be classified as a masque for categorical convenience, its approach varies substantially from that offered by the concept of masques today both in terms of its way of positive visible influence on the skin as well as its respect for dermal integrity.”

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But, yeah, Flavanone Mud is a clay mask. I look at it as a clay mask on steroids. The third and fourth ingredients are Montmorillonite and Kaolin — two of the most common clays found in more conventional clay masks.

But that’s where anything common ends. The fourth ingredient is Bisabolol — the soothing, active component of chamomile. And soothing is definitely a plus with NIOD’s Flavanone Mud. It has this surprising tingling effect that borders on burning. The effect is temporary and I have never really been able to put my finger on it.

What I do know is that once the crazy tingling subsides (about 20 minutes after removal), my skin is extraordinarily bright and refreshed. That’s the instant benefit. What happens in the days following is what makes Flavanone Mud unique — and what takes it beyond a simple clay mask.

There is a potent triple phase decongesting effect — what NIOD defines as a purifying phase, a protective phase and a responsive phase. These phases create a pro-skin health cascade that’s increasingly visible in the complexion for days after masking with Flavanone Mud.

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The purifying phase removes surface impurities including excess sebum and pollutants that become embedded in pores, congesting pores and leading to the occurrence of blemishes and a decline in the healthy functions of the skin. This phase also infuses skin with healthy minerals.

The protective phase of Flavanone Mud “offers the most innovative approach to decongestion by introducing technologies that offer a physical shield against external build-up.” This is where the exceptional benefits of this entirely unconventional clay mask are most notable. It’s powered by polysaccharide from microorganisms that help to shield skin against pollutants that bombard skin throughout the day and compromise skin health. If you live in a city as I do, you’ll benefit from the effect.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

HAPPY SELFCARE SUNDAY! DETOXING WITH NIOD’S FLAVANONE MUD – ONE OF THE BEST CLAY MASKS EVERRRRR!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


There’s also a potent antioxidant that NIOD says is an analogue of Resveratrol, the beneficial antioxidant component of red wine. And, the pure form of Bisabolol helps to “reduce the look inflammation through a secondary support mechanism while forming mild but sustainable support against climate change.”

Flavanone Mud’s third, responsive phase amps up the environmental defenses that are the longterm, multiple day benefit and from which the product gets its name. “This phase is the most important phase of FM as it respects health and longevity. The presence of ‘Flavanone’ in the name of the product emphasizes the importance of this phase.”

What’s Flavanone? It’s a highly purified extracts derived from the white pith of citrus peels that helps to power the detoxification benefit of the Flavanone Mud mask.

Flavanone Mud is one of the most unique an innovative masks I’ve come across. Call it whatever you want, but don’t call it a clay mask.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the NIOD Flavanone Mud for $39 here.



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FAVORITE FACE MISTS FOR KEEPING SKIN HYDRATED IN THE COLD


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


Orpheus loves his #solaraglow too!

Orpheus loves his #solaraglow too!


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Flavanone Mud:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex:

Aqua (Water) solv, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract h, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Hyaluronic Acid sii|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate h, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate h, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate h, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate cci, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides h, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum h|vc, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract aox|h, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum emo|vc, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 cci, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract so|aox|amic, Salvia Sclarea Extract so, Arginine sii, Aspartic Acid sii, Glycine sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Valine sii, Isoleucine sii, Proline sii, Threonine sii, Histidine sii|h, Phenylalanine sii, Pca sii|h, Sodium Pca sii|h 0 0, Betaine h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside aox|so, Gallyl Glucoside aox|so, Algae Extract emo|h, Sodium Salicylate pres, Lecithin emo|emu, Polyglucuronic Acid h, Xanthan Gum vc|emu|surf, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Sclerotium Gum vc, Pullulan, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose vc, Propanediol solv|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Citric Acid buff, Magnesium Chloride vc, Silica vc, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Propyl Gallate aox|perf, Dehydroacetic Acid pres, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenoxyethanol pres
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1:

Copper Concentrate, **Activator
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of the NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide MIST:

The Ingredient List of the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1%:

* Palmitoyl-GHK-Cu is a version of GHK-Cu with a Palmitoyl group attached to its structure to enhance its lipophilic properties for improved skin affinity.
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

BRANDS I LOVE: HUMANRACE - PHARRELL WILLIAMS' SURPRISINGLY CLEAN, SUSTAINABLE & REFILLABLE SKINCARE - BEST CLEAN FACE CREAM, BEST EASY SKINCARE ROUTINE

BRANDS I LOVE: HUMANRACE - PHARRELL WILLIAMS' SURPRISINGLY CLEAN, SUSTAINABLE & REFILLABLE SKINCARE - BEST CLEAN FACE CREAM, BEST EASY SKINCARE ROUTINE

PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD COPPER AMINO ISOLATE LIPID 1%  (CAIL) - BEST MOISTURE MASK, BEST SLUGGING CREAM

PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD COPPER AMINO ISOLATE LIPID 1% (CAIL) - BEST MOISTURE MASK, BEST SLUGGING CREAM