BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUM, BEST PEPTIDE SERUM
When I was a kid in a small town in central Connecticut, I thought I was going to be a doctor when I grew up. I had a microscope, a stethoscope and a blood-typing kit. I loved science as much as I loved language. Spock and Dr. McCoy were my heroes.
I was fascinated by ancient Roman and Greek philosophers, poets and scientists — greats like Galileo, Plato, Socrates and Aristotle.
Later, I was obsessed with the High Renaissance frescoes and sculptures of Michelangelo. Visiting Florence and Rome in high school and standing a foot in front of Michelangelo’s statue of David IRL was a seminal moment of my early adulthood. As was gazing up at the Florentine artist’s fresco on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. I’ve returned to repeat that majestic moment a half dozen times over the years.
As a child, I would gaze up at the stars for hours imagining what life out there was like. And, yes, I was a Trekkie — a die-hard Star Trek fan! If you know Star Trek well, you know it’s truly one part science, one part fiction, melding the two disciplines. Many of the original Star Trek episodes were based on and inspired by classic literature, particularly Shakespeare.
I studied both Latin and English language and literature from my first day of high school, continuing through college. In fact, two quotations adjacent to my graduation photo in my high school yearbook were taken from Star Trek. The second quoted the words of French poet Anatole France: “To know is nothing at all; to imagine is everything.”
Looking back on it now, it would seem that I had chosen my path — it would be language and literature. I would become a writer, not a doctor.
The skincare stuff starts here.
Over the course of my life, I have often existed and thrived at the intersection of science and language. Where I could combine my passions for each, I have. As a skincare copywriter and blogger, my favorite brands and products are always the ones rooted in legitimate science.
My favorite copywriting job was and will always be my work at Kiehl’s. Founded as an old-world apothecary, Kiehl’s was the perfect place for me. Kiehl’s has always had a nerdy, wonky and imaginative personality (much like me!) — imbued in the brand by its second generation family founder, Mr. Aaron Morse.
Though Mr. Morse had passed away by the time I moved to New York to work for Kiehl’s in 2002, I cherished his every word. In fact, there was one quotation by Mr. Morse that moved me then and moves me now: “Love what you do. Put your heart into it and you will be rewarded.”
Kiehl’s sparked my affinity for science-based skin care. In the years since, by favorite skincare brands are the ones inspired by and rooted in science — dermatological science, clinical science, and pharmaceutical science. The weirder and wonkier, the better!
Last year, I was honored to be recognized as one of the best skincare bloggers with a passion for science in an article by the online beauty publication Byrdie titled, Scientific Beauty Bloggers Are on The Rise—Here’s Who to Follow Now. In her piece, author Fani Mari wrote:
Now more than ever, consumers want to be thoroughly informed about what they're putting on their skin and in their bodies. If you’ve ever looked up every single ingredient within a product or wondered what each of these will do for your skin, then you are in for a treat. Thankfully for Instagram’s existence, we can now connect with brands and industry experts from all over the globe. Beauty experts versed in the science of it all have become increasingly popular—whether that means measuring the pH of products, myth-busting a brand’s claims, breaking down ingredients, and cutting out the fear-mongering.
His favorite products: "If I had to choose one product of all the skincare I have in my skincare vault, it would be the NIOD Survival 30 ($30). It’s simply the best sunscreen I’ve ever used—and it’s much, much more than SPF. It’s powered by an antioxidant matrix that protects skin and promotes skin health."
Deciem’s deep-science brand NIOD has been a longtime favorite. In fact, it’s perhaps the most scientific skincare brand I’ve come across — with product names and descriptions seemingly written by the scientists and chemists behind the brand’s formulations.
There’s always been something exceptionally intriguing about NIOD — the nerdier sister brand of the more popular The Ordinary. First and foremost, it’s a smart, hard science brand — not for the casual skincare user. The products are more scientific, more potent and more costly than the democratically priced, simple, one-note products offered by The Ordinary.
NIOD requires somewhat of a commitment to learning what ingredients work for your skin; it’s definitely not for beginners or anyone uninterested in much beyond the basics of cleansing and moisturizing.
I have always strongly aligned with the brand’s overall formulation philosophy. A brand's formulation philosophy matters to the end result, whether the product is genuinely good for your skin — and not just marketing fluff. And while most skincare brands offer some well-made products, which of their products are actually doing right by your skin comes down to who exactly is formulating the company’s skin care — and whether the formulator (often a chemist or someone who works closely with a chemist) follows a solid formulation philosophy. Does the chemist follow strict guidelines about ingredient no-no’s like denatured alcohol, parabens and fragrant plant (essential) oils that can compromise skin health and can actually be pro-aging?
NIOD seems exceptional to me, or as Deciem would describe it, abnormal!
So, what exactly is NIOD? The brand name is an acronym that stands for Non Invasive Options in Dermal-Science. This is how they describe themselves:
“Ahead is not further than behind.
True learning is a form of love — it is humble. It respects that to look forward, it must look backward. The few observers of NIOD’s childhood know that NIOD isn’t a brand. It is a force and it has a soul. While NIOD’s genetics are committed to science, its soul is ultimately rooted in learning. Perhaps the only flaw of modern science is that it grows proud and loses respect for our deserving past — but learning stays humble and looks back.
NIOD’s journey will offer respect to our past with a series of formulations informally called yešti. NIOD’s caretakers live with exhausting standards in science. The journey of NIOD’s yešti formulations is not one of a lower standard — it is instead one that allows our collective past an overdue chance to speak.”— http://niod.com
I love the spirit and intent behind the NIOD brand! And I’m pretty sure it’s available on the Enterprise. Let’s take a look at some of my favorite NIOD products…
NIOD | Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex
My first introduction to NIOD was what I suspect to be the brand’s most popular product — the Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex. Referred to by the brand and its most ardent followers as MMHC2, Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex is one of the best Hyaluronic Acid serums I’ve come across.
Last week, I published my latest blog article on what I consider some of the best humectant serums titled, My Favorite Humectant Serums From Paula's Choice, The Inkey List, Ghost Democracy And More — which you can catch here. Truthfully, NIOD’s MMHC2 could easily have been included in the collection, but I was saving it for this week’s blog.
MMHC2 is the mother of all Hyaluronic Acid treatments! In my earlier piece on my favorite humectant serums, I discussed the most obvious difference between Hyaluronic Acid serums — the pricer ones are watery, the least expensive ones tend to be thicker and pulpier. That’s no coincidence. It’s a result of the quality of the Hyaluronic Acid itself, the particular form of the molecule used in the formula.
Low-molecular weight HA is a smaller molecule; high molecular weight HA is the larger. Low-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid is more expensive and better able to penetrate the skin barrier, which is constructed for the purpose of keeping everything out — whether good or bad — from bacteria, viruses and free radicals to beneficial skincare actives like Hyaluronic Acid.
MMHC2 is one of the most watery of Hyaluronic Acid treatments. It’s formulated with multiple forms of HA in what NIOD describes as, “15 forms of hyaluronic compounds, hyaluronic precursors and a hyaluronic support technology in a peptide-charged delivery system.” I said it was the mother of all HA serums and I meant it!
What is hyaluronic acid for skin?
I recently found an excellent albeit wonky article on Hyaluronic Acid titled, Why Science Says Hyaluronic Acid Is the Holy Grail to Wrinkle-Free, Youthful Hydration.
This bit stood out to me, in particular:
“The benefits of hyaluronic acid on the skin has to do with its molecular weight and concentration. In this case, size matters! The molecular weight refers to its mass, or how big the HA molecule is. This is measured in something called unified atomic mass units — daltons, or kDa for short.
HA between 50 to 1,000 kDa is the most beneficial for skin, with about 130 kDa being the best, according to the most recent human studies. Anything higher won't make too much of a difference. Anything lower might cause inflammation. How did we get this number? When you look at studies, you'll see a pattern, but one of the most thorough studies looked at HA with different molecular weights, including 50, 130, 300, 800, and 2,000 kDa.
After one month, they found that treatment with 130 kDa HA was the most effective, increasing skin elasticity by 20 percent. Both the 50 and 130 kDa groups had significant improvement in wrinkle-depth and skin roughness after 60 days. All the other molecular weights still improved elasticity and skin hydration, just less so. You can read more about this molecular weight analysis from the original breakdown here.”
According to the nerds at NIOD, MMHC2 is formulated with a “rare direct form of hyaluronic acid.” They go on in great detail, as they often do on the NIOD product pages, stating that, “while several sodium salt forms of hyaluronic acid are included in MMHC2, the formula also includes 1.0% direct hyaluronic acid which appears as "hyaluronic acid" in the ingredient listing. This inclusion is exceptionally rare for a broad range of formulation and commercial reasons. Direct hyaluronic acid offers pro-repair support far beyond basic water hydration that sodium hyaluronate offers, resulting in improvements to the elastic appearance and the general healthy look of skin.”
In addition to this direct form of Hyaluronic Acid, there are several distinct, natural humectant complexes derived from bio-yeast, tamarind, mushroom and locust beans.
The purpose of using multiple molecular weight formats is to deliver a broader, more extensive humectant effect at varying depths in the skin’s upper layers. This helps to more effectively defend skin against trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL.
What is trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)?
There’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? available here. In the piece, the author defines TEWL as follows:
“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).
While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.
Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.
To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”
The NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex also contains what the brand refers to as a “Hyaluronic Support System of Adaptogenic Water-Starved Clary Sage Flavonoids, Phenylethanoid Glycosides from Narrow Leaf Plantain and Dermal Amino Acids”.
What?!
This is the kind of imaginative science stuff that I love about NIOD! The complex is purported to enhance the efficacy of the multiple forms of Hyaluronic Acid in the formula to further prevent dehydration.
Maintaining proper hydration levels year-round is the key to preserving skin health and even more important during the colder winter months when the dry air around us sucks the water through our skin barrier like a magnet. I like to think of MMHC2 as a coat of armor for the skin.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex for $35 here.
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NIOD | Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1
As I said, NIOD isn’t for beginners or casual skincare users. And there’s perhaps no better example of this than the brand’s iconic Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1 — or CAIS2. What is it? An anti-aging peptide powerhouse — and one of the best peptide serums available.
Of course the NIOD scientists don’t describe it in as quite a simplistic fashion.
According to the NIOD team, CAIS2 is described this way: “As a highly-focused effort to maintain healthy-looking skin, this pro-repair, pro-collagen serum offers a novel approach to target all signs of skin aging indirectly. This indirect approach departs from the traditional thinking of addressing visible aspects of skin aging individually and instead forms a foundation to respect skin health.”
The Copper Amino Isolate Serum contains multiple forms of peptides and amino acids, notably a 1% concentration of pure, undiluted Copper Tripeptide-1 — from which the serum gets its name and its exceptional age-fighting efficacy.
And here’s where the wonky science experience kicks in. CAIS2 is a freshly activated treatment, requiring mixing the contents of two separate bottles into one to activate the copper peptides, something that apparently has a shorter shelf life. The self-activation process assures maximum anti-aging efficacy.
What are copper peptides (and what makes them special)?
I found an insightful piece on peptides, and specifically copper peptides, on the Byrdie website titled, Copper Peptides Are Like Nature's Botox, Here's How to Use Them.
Over the past few years, we've noticed a major trend gaining ground within the beauty industry and among skincare enthusiasts like ourselves: From 24 karat gold–infused facial oils to diamond dust–encrusted setting powders to colloidal silver eye masks, metallics are taking over.
And most recently, copper—specifically copper peptides—has repeatedly caught our eye as we peruse the ingredient lists of our favorite serums. And apparently, we aren't alone. We spoke to experts Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD, founder of Mudgil Dermatology in NYC; Joanna Vargas, celebrity facialist and founder of Joanna Vargas Salons and Skin Care; Marie Hayag, MD, Board Certified Dermatologist and Founder of 5th Avenue Aesthetics; and Nancy Pellegrino, NP and co-founder of THE ROUTE.
“Copper peptides are well known in the skincare world with decades of data as a skin restoring ingredient causing skin improvement including skin firmness, smoothness, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, by promoting collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycan (think HAs) and improved antioxidant activity,” says Pellegrino. They're increasingly popular—for instance, in just one month, ‘copper peptides serums’ was searched more than 1000 times on Google. And considering the acclaimed benefits of this particular kind of peptide (like the collagen-increasing and wrinkle-reducing), we're not all that surprised by the apparent fascination.
Fascination indeed! Spock would certainly be intrigued.
With the proliferation of more advanced skincare products that put consumers in the driver’s seat, what’s often lost is the expertise of a dermatologist or the chemists themselves. As effective as peptide serums like CAIS2 are, it’s important to do your research and learn how to use them.
It’s essential to understand what you can and cannot mix when you’re using potent antioxidant and peptide serums. Notably, Deciem advises against using peptide serums with Ascorbic Acid, the pure form of Vitamin C. One apparently deactivates the other.
According to Deciem,
“It is best to not use Peptides in the same routine as the following products: Direct acids, LAA (L-Ascorbic Acid) and ELAA (Ethylated Ascorbic Acid). In addition, we would recommend avoiding the use of products containing copper peptides in the same routine as strong antioxidants as well as direct acids/LAA/ELAA.”
The Copper Amino Isolate Serum contains multiple pro-skin health and anti-aging technologies, beyond its signature copper peptide complex. There are two pro-collagen amino acid complexes including a 9% concentration of pure, undiluted Tripeptide-29 and a 4% blend of Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 and Trifluroacetyl Tripeptide-2. These combine to enhance collagen production in the skin to firm and plump skin from within, defending against sagging and loss of density — and smoothing the appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin’s surface.
CAIS2 has always intrigued me — it’s one of the coolest skincare products, hands-down. If you’re looking for a superior peptide serum — and a treatment that is literally anti-aging, not anti-aging marketing — CAIS2 is for you.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1 for $90 here.
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NIOD | Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate
I tend to be rather lazy when it comes to eye creams. Before your mouth hits the floor, know that it doesn’t mean that I neglect my delicate eye area. Far from it! Both morning and evening, I very often simply use my face cream in my eye area, after applying the same Vitamin C or peptide serum that I use on the rest of my face.
Seriously, if you’re using a well-formulated, gentle moisturizer, it will work perfectly well around your eyes, too. Face creams that I consider the most gentle and safest for my eye area include the Paula’s Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer and First Aid Beauty’s Ultra Repair Cream — one of the best face creams for sensitive skin.
In the winter, a facial oil that’s devoid of fragrant plant oils is wonderful for maintain optimum moisture and hydration levels in the thin skin around the eyes.
And, of course, a daily sunscreen is even more essential for your eye area than anywhere else on your face. A personal fave is the Supergoop! Bright-Eyed 100% Mineral Eye Cream SPF 40. Get yours for $36.00 here. (You’ll thank me in 10 years.)
All this to say, what’s most important is that you take really good care of your eye area. If that’s a combination of a well-formulated, nourishing eye cream paired with a sunscreen that doesn’t bleed into your eyes, great!
NIOD’s Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate is a really well-formulated eye treatment — one of the best eye creams I’ve come across. It’s actually not a cream at all; rather, it’s a silky soothing peptide-enriched serum — and the perfect blend of texture and technology.
According to Deciem, FECC is formulated with, “28 complex approaches to fight visible aging of the eye contour. This abstract highlights the most novel of these approaches.”
There are six ingredient complexes in FECC that combine multiple forms of Hyaluronic Acid and peptides to hydrate skin, and firm and smooth the look of fine lines in the eye area.
Among these anti-aging technologies is what NIOD refers to as a firbroblast drone. That sounds like something Captain Kirk would employ to search for a lost crew member on the planet below.
It’s described by the brand’s chemists as follows: “Perhaps a most advanced skin technology available, this suspension contains extraordinary capsules that secure a pro-HA peptide within a polymer core that is surrounded by a Heptapeptide to specifically bind to targets before release, exponentiating delivery and effectiveness to an accuracy level previously impossible. No technology today delivers the visible filling activity of this truly complex system to support Hyaluronic Acid.”
I feel like I always learn something when I’m on the NIOD site. This time, it’s the word exponentiating. Was the NIOD chemist high? Is that even a word?! I’m not sure it is. No matter, though, what I am sure of is the fact that FECC is an extra-ordinary anti-aging eye treatment.
Unique to the NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate, the formula also targets visible aging and loss of elasticity in both the upper and lower eyelids, something I’ve rarely seen claimed for an eye product. Notably, the brand lists an active bio-complex that combines marigold extract and yeast ferment that “has shown up to a 94% positive response in reducing both the look of dark circles and feelings of sensitivity.”
I’m not convinced that anything can treat dark circles effectively. It’s best to prevent them in the first place by drinking lots of water, getting proper sleep and using sunscreen in the immediate eye area — all of which are leading contributors to the appearance of dark circles in the under-eye area.
In addition to the formula’s numerous peptides, there are multiple antioxidants in FECC including Ascorbic Acid, Birch Bark Extract, Superoxide Dismutase and Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside — the most powerful antioxidant component of green tea.
And about the intriguing texture of NIOD’s Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate? It’s so silky smooth that it’s oddly pleasurable to apply around the eyes. As crazy as it sounds, it feels like a watery oil — which is an impossibility, I know. Is it possible that NIOD achieved some feat of alchemy to perfectly blend oil and water? Nah, I suspect it’s the high level of Glycerin and Propanediol at ingredients number two and four, respectively.
But it feels so good! This FECC stuff is quite the age-fighting powerhouse for the eye area.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate for $68 here.
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NIOD | Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist
I’m always in the mood for a good hydrating face mist. Several weeks ago, just as winter was hitting here in NYC, I crafted an entire blog article titled, Favorite Face Mists For Keeping Skin Hydrated In The Cold – Best Face Mists, Best Hydrating Toners For Dry, Dehydrated Skin. If you’re feeling dry and dehydrated, be sure to check it out here.
Among my faves reviewed in that piece are the Derma E Hydrating Mist, the Skinfix Barrier+ Nutrient Water Misting Tonic and Sunday Riley’s Pink Drink Firming Resurfacing Essence — a fermented dream come true.
As with everything NIOD creates, the Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist isn’t just some run-of-the-mill skincare product; it’s much more than a hydrating toner. As a matter of fact, NIOD denies that SDSM2 is a toner at all.
“SDSM2 is the second generation of SDSM, NIOD's dermal treatment mist–not to be classified mistakenly as a "toner"–that acts as a fundamental daily force against oxidative stress, water loss and the look of inflammation, all of which contribute to loss of visible skin quality over time.”
There’s clearly no accounting for the fact that SDSM2 is used in place of a toner. And, to be honest, I make no distinctions between even the best toners for face and the best hydrating face mists. It’s a matter of how they are dispensed; clearly a mist is easier to apply than a conventional toner. And the sole purpose of each is to restore skin’s hydration levels.
So, while we can agree to disagree on how to refer to SDSM2, what exactly is NIOD’s Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist?
What’s the difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin?
For the answer to that vexing questing, as I most often do, I turned to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team for insights. There’s a superb piece on the Paula’s Choice site titled, What is Dehydrated Skin & How to Choose the Best Products. Here is an excerpt:
Dehydrated skin often looks and feels like dry skin all over your face, but there's a major difference between the two: dehydrated skin is usually a temporary concern (with various surprising causes) and dry skin typically doesn't change over time. If you have dehydrated skin, your skin may also produce a normal or even excessive amount of oil on its surface.
"Dehydrated skin" is something we’re asked about frequently. It seems there’s a lot of confusion about what this skin concern is about. A major part of the confusion is that the term "dehydrated skin" is often used interchangeably with "dry skin" or "combination skin" but they are not the same! Dehydrated skin can occur in all skin types and is not exclusive to those with dry skin or combination skin.
The Difference Between Dry Skin and Dehydrated Skin
Having classically dry skin is easy to recognize. Dry skin frequently feels tight and dry, with no oil anywhere to be seen. This situation rarely fluctuates; skin feels dry all year long. The dryness might get worse depending on the climate, season, or activity, but regardless of those things, without great skin care products, the uncomfortable dry, tight feeling will persist.
As mentioned above, dehydrated skin can look and feel similar, but there’s a major difference: Dehydrated skin tends to come and go, it does not persist.
First, as indicated by the product’s very name, SDSM2 is enriched with Superoxide Dismutase — a naturally occurring antioxidant found in the skin that’s the body’s most essential antioxidant to fend off cell damage.
According to the NIOD scientists, “Superoxide is the main reactive oxygen species in each cell and SOD is the body's natural way of out-competing the ongoing and very damaging effect of superoxide in cells. Arguably, SOD is the most important force against oxidation in the human body.”
I had never heard of Superoxide Dismutase until discovering this remarkable, ahem, hydrating toner, about three years ago. It’s relatively infrequent to find in an INCI and when I do I always think about this powerhouse formula.
SDSM2 is certainly a potent skin re-hydrator. But, in classic NIOD fashion, it does so in its own way. There are only low levels of two common humectants in the formula, Glycerin and Butylene Glycol — not exactly power hydrators. Instead of going the easy Hyaluronic Acid route, the NIOD formulators got all wonky.
SDSM2 delivers its humectant oomph to hydrate skin and maintain water levels through a high concentration of Marine Exopolysaccharides. The sustainably-sourced marine polysaccharide apparently has superior water preservation properties to the highest molecule weight Hyaluronic Acid molecules. And as such, “With continued use, the longer-term benefits of preserving hydration are far beyond just hydration itself; however, from a more immediate perspective, this technology increases skin hydration by more than 35% and measurably reduces the look of roughness within 2 hours.”
Call it whatever you want, but don’t call it boring.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist for $50 here.
FAVORITE FACE MISTS FOR KEEPING SKIN HYDRATED IN THE COLD
NIOD | Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1%
If you’re a fan of NIOD, you know the brand doesn’t introduce products often. As I said earlier, one of NIOD’s more intriguing products is the copper peptide-powered Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1, or CAIS2. The cool, electric blue two-step serum you mix yourself makes me feel like I’m back in my high school chemistry class paired up with my prom date, Carla Pia Mills. (I have to find those pictures!)
So when NIOD came out with their latest product, the copper peptide moisture treatment Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1%, I was intrigued from day one. CAIL was NIOD’s only new product introduction of 2020. And the stuff, as expected, is just so weird.
The Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% is tough to characterize — classic NIOD. It’s formulated for evening use and has a thick gooey, glue-like texture that feels like it should be used alone. It’s pretty impossible to layer.
Deciem says the CAIL formula is a “pro-collagen, pro-lipid, pro-fat formula [that] branches from the concept of NIOD’s multi-award-winning Copper Amino Isolate Serum, with the additional benefits of building and enhancing skin barrier function, elasticity and integrity via lipophilic pathways.”
You know I was like, okay where am I, on the Starship Enterprise getting a facial on the holo-deck? Lipophilic pathways don’t seem like they should be blocked by anything.
The Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% is a weirdly cool treatment that really is best used alone as the last and only step of your skincare routine. I’ve certainly had my share of nights where I don’t feel like doing anything, but don’t want to wake up looking like I did nothing!
In addition to the skin-plumping and fortifying copper peptides, there’s a significant level of plant-derived Squalane at ingredient number one. It has this remarkable occlusive benefit to it that really does keep skin moisturized throughout the night.
I have to say I was, and remain, befuddled by Deciem’s advice that CAIL should be applied before Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex or, I would assume, your humectant serum. So, I DM’d Deciem. Apparently it has to do with the molecular sizes of the formula’s ingredients. I was totally trippin’ on this for weeks then realized some things are better left alone.
So, I use CAIL alone and get my zzz’s…
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% for $90 here.
I hope you enjoyed this week’s high school science class — and taking my trip down memory lane. Check out these dope NIOD treatments and step into a whole weird world of high-science skin care.
That’s it guys! Beam me up, Scotty…
💟 SKINCARMA
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Orpheus loves his #solaraglow too!
The Ingredient List of the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex:
h, Glycerin 
sii|h 0 0, Hyaluronic Acid sii|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate h, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate h, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate h, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate cci, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides h, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum h|vc, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract aox|h, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum emo|vc, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 cci, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract so|aox|amic, Salvia Sclarea Extract so, Arginine sii, Aspartic Acid sii, Glycine sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Valine sii, Isoleucine sii, Proline sii, Threonine sii, Histidine sii|h, Phenylalanine sii, Pca sii|h, Sodium Pca sii|h 0 0, Betaine h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside aox|so, Gallyl Glucoside aox|so, Algae Extract emo|h, Sodium Salicylate pres, Lecithin emo|emu, Polyglucuronic Acid h, Xanthan Gum vc|emu|surf, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Sclerotium Gum vc, Pullulan, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose vc, Propanediol solv|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Citric Acid buff, Magnesium Chloride vc, Silica vc, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Propyl Gallate aox|perf, Dehydroacetic Acid pres, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenoxyethanol presThe Ingredient List of the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1:
so, Isoceteth-20 emu|surf, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amic, Aqua (Water) solv, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Tripeptide-29 cci, Tripeptide-1 cci, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 cci, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2 cci, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 cci, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Glycogen h, Propanediol solv|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Dextran vc, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Isoceteth-20 emu|surf, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate amic|pres, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amic
The Ingredient List of the NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate:
cci|sb|aacne|h, Propanediol solv|h, Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid) sii|h 0 0, Tilia Cordata (Linden) Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract aox|so, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Phytic Acid chel, Xanthan Gum vc|emu|surf, Phenoxyethanol pres, Ethylhexylglycerin presThe Ingredient List of the NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide MIST:
aox, Malachite Extract aox, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides h, Mirabilis Jalapa Extract, Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome Extract aox|h, Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract h, Sphagnum Magellanicum Extract, Arginine sii, Propanediol solv|h, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Butylene Glycol h|solv|vc 0 1, Sodium Salicylate pres, Gellan Gum vc, Sodium Chloride vc, Ppg-26-Buteth-26, Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil emu|surf, Citric Acid buff, Tromethamine buff, Phenoxyethanol pres, Chlorphenesin pres|amicThe Ingredient List of the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1%:
sii|emo 0 1, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Aqua (Water) solv, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate h, Glycolipids, Sucrose Laurate emo|emu|surf, Propanediol solv|h, Copper Tripeptide-1 (Palmitoyl) cci|so|aox, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran, Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Extract perf, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract h, Sucrose Stearate emo|emu|surf 0 0, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Phenoxyethanol pres
