MY FAVORITE FACIAL OILS FOR COMBATTING COLD WEATHER WITH KIEHL'S, CODEX BEAUTY, HERBIVORE & MORE!
Yup. That’s me on the left smiling thru it.
Winter is my fourth favorite season. The fact that some people love the cold is one thing I will never understand. How anyone could love being cold is beyond me. But hey, it’s one of those things that makes us unique, right?
Personally, I loathe the cold deep in my soul.
I always go back to this one specific moment as a kid. There I was, standing by the side of the road in the dark heart of winter — otherwise known as February in small town Cheshire, Connecticut. I was waiting for the school bus in my puffy winter coat from Two Guys; mittens, knit cap, scarf, sensible snow boots — shivering violently. And in that moment, I knew one thing for sure. The second I could, I was getting the hell out of there and moving to California where I just knew it was always sunny and warm.
That small sliver of hope was all I needed. Today, hope is not enough. I need a rich, nourishing facial oil. I think facial oils are perhaps the most misunderstood skincare product there is. Uh, maybe toners are too. Toners and facial oils. They’re trapped on the Island of the Misfit Toys. Where it’s cold, of course! Think of facial oils as moisturizers without the cream.
Sure, a good facial oil is essential to maintaining healthy, hydrated and moisturized skin in the colder winter months. But, not all oils are created equal. There is a very common misperception that essential oils that smell amazing are perfect as skin care simply because they, umm, smell amazing.
It’s that time of year again where only a facial oil will save your skin from the harsh cold air.
Nothing could be further from the truth.
Fragrant plant oils are essentially fragrance. The only thing “essential” about them is that they should stay away from your face. Simply, as my Skincare Muse Paula Begoun so aptly states, fragrance isn’t skincare.
A good rule of thumb is this:
If it smells really good, it’s probably not really good for your skin.
Lavender is the perfect example. The smell of lavender is divine. Few would disagree with that. Lavender is like Dolly Parton. If you hate her, there’s something really wrong with you. Lavender is one of my absolute favorite scents. But just because it piques my senses doesn’t mean it belongs on my face.
Let’s talk about molecules for a second. Have you ever wondered what it is you’re actually smelling, what your sense of smell is picking up when you sniff something fragrant? It’s molecules; lost molecules actually. Scent is given off as a result of a volatile chemical reaction. In that process, molecules break away from the host — perhaps a budding flower, a block of parmigiana cheese, or stale milk.
These castaways fly into the air where they either dissipate in time or enter our bodies through our nostrils, where receptors signal the data to our brains. The brain processes these molecular signals and disseminates the information you need to make an informed judgement about the object you’ve sniffed. Sometimes these smells are perceived as pleasant (the flower), sometimes they’re unpleasant (the stale milk).
**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF MY FAVORITE FACIAL OILS FOR COMBATTING COLD WEATHER - NOW PLAYING ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
When a fragrant plant “essential” oil is applied to your skin, that volatility caused by the chemical reaction occurs on and in your skin where it disrupts the skin barrier. Depending on the nature and severity of the volatility, that disruption very often leads to irritation.
Calming lavender isn’t the only volatile fragrant plant oil that shouldn’t be applied to your skin. Others include crisp, refreshing Orange Peel Oil and intoxicating Rose Oil. What wonderful smells they are! What about soothing Eucalyptus Oil? That’s a big no-no, too. What they all have in common is an intense scent. That is, they’re volatile with a greater potential to cause irritation.
There is an excellent article on the Paula’s Choice website about the inherent value (or lack thereof) of plant oils for the skin and the benefits of a well-formulated facial oil titled, How Facial Oils Help Skin.
In it, Paula breaks it down.
“Facial oils can include any fragrant plant oils (often called essential oils, but they are anything but essential—more on that in a moment), non-fragrant plant oils (your skin will love these) or synthetic oils (such as mineral oil—which gets a bad rap in the world of skincare but for the record, the research doesn't support the negative information you find on the Internet).”
Paula’s list of the most common fragrant plant oils to avoid:
So, thinking about all plant oils, now that I’ve established the drawbacks of fragrant plant oils, what about the non-fragrant ones? Think about what olive oil smells like. Basically nothing, right? It’s certainly not something you can apply before a date and get complements on.
“Oh, my what fragrance are you wearing?”
“Actually, it’s plain old olive oil!”
What a conversation starter!
Nearly all non-fragrant plant oils can benefit the skin by delivering pro-skin health replenishment, nourishment and moisture. Among them argan, jojoba, squalane (derived from olives), sunflower, oat kernel, rosehip seed, sea buckthorn, almond and evening primrose. The list goes on. What they all have in common is that they have no pleasant smell and thus no volatile, sensitizing reaction on the skin.
Some non-fragrant plant oils like Rosehip Seed Oil and Sea Buckthorn Oil have anti-aging benefits.
Many plant oils deliver antioxidant benefits as well, helping skin defend against environmental damage. Some like Rosehip Seed Oil and Sea Buckthorn Oil even have more potent anti-aging benefits.
Non-fragrant plant oils are your friend. And a well-formulated facial oil is your BFF! I probably have 20-30 facial oils on hand right now — some are favorites, some I’m currently reviewing — but I wanted to share about just six of them, each noteworthy in its own way.
So, let’s take a look at some of my favorite facial oils for combatting dry, winter skin (and more!)…
Herbivore | Phoenix Rosehip Anti-Aging Face Oil
One of the standout plant oils that delivers additional pro-skin health benefits beyond basic nourishment and moisture is Sea Buckthorn Oil.
And clean luxury brand Herbivore’s Phoenix facial oil contains significant levels of beneficial plant oils including Rosehip Oil, Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Chia Seed Oil and Sea Buckthorn Oil — from which it derives its electric, deep orange hue.
Paula rates Sea Buckthorn Oil as among the best actives, her highest ingredient rating.
“Also known as seaberry, this berry is a good source of vitamin C as well as various B vitamins, vitamin E, lycopene, phytosterols, and numerous phenolic compounds that provide antioxidant benefit. A unique aspect of this fruit extract is its ability to help stabilize elements in skin that would normally break down in the presence of peroxide and other types of free radicals. Like other berries, it also has a pronounced soothing effect on skin.”
Skin loves all of that!
And I love the luxurious super silky texture of Herbivore’s Phoenix oil. It’s a cleanly formulated, spa-quality treatment that feels like some sort of otherworldly power oil on application. It’s that pampering. With seven non-fragrant plant oils, it has a mildly herbaceous scent and is simply one of the best facial oils I’ve come across. There is a tiny amount of fragrant Neroli Oil as the last ingredient, but it’s highly unlikely to irritate skin at that low level — even the most sensitive of skins.
Phoenix is a richly emollient oil, not a dry oil, making it ideal for very dry skin or all skin types in very dry conditions like freezing cold air. It’s perfect for winter nights as the last step in a PM skincare routine.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Herbivore Phoenix Rosehip Anti-Aging Face Oil for $88 here.
Good Molecules | Pure Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil
While Herbivore’s Phoenix is a blend of six replenishing plant oils, Good Molecules’ Pure Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil is what’s called a “single-note” oil; that is, it contains just one ingredient — Rosehip Seed Oil.
And again, like Sea Buckthorn Oil, Rosehip Seed Oil is remarkable. Sure, it’s a non-fragrant, emollient plant oil with antioxidant properties and is a rich source of pro-skin health fatty acids; but this is no ordinary oil.
Rosehip Seed Oil, for example, contains anti-inflammatory fatty acids and both vitamins A and C. It can also help even out skin tone and deliver additional anti-aging benefits. There’s an excellent piece on the oil’s multitude of benefits for the skin called the 7 Amazing Benefits of Adding Rosehip Oil to Your Skincare Routine here.
If you’re unfamiliar with Good Molecules, it’s one of a few new “democratic” skincare brands like The Ordinary and The Inkey List that offers simple, yet effective products at a very low price — making well-formulated skincare products accessible to everyone.
The Korean skincare brand offers a broad range of products, many of them more interesting than just single-note oils. Among Good Molecules’ range is the $14 Niacinamide Brightening Toner, a personal fave, and the $6 Overnight Exfoliating Treatment with 8.05% Glycolic Acid.
The Pure Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil is comprised of 100% Chilean Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, derived from the rosa canina rose bush which is, in fact, grown predominantly in Chile. Unlike both rose oil and rose extract, which are drawn from the rose petals themselves and thus fragrant, Rosehip Oil is pressed from the fruit and seeds of the rose plant. Because it’s a non-fragrant plant oil, it smells of virtually nothing. That may be surprising since it’s extracted from roses. Again, it comes down to molecular science.
And about the essential fatty acids in Rosehip Seed Oil? They help promote elasticity, support a healthy lipid barrier and, because of their occlusive nature, they even reduce trans-epidermal water loss to keep skin moist, healthy and hydrated.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Good Molecules Pure Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil for $10 here.
**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF MY FAVORITE FACIAL OILS FOR COMBATTING COLD WEATHER - NOW PLAYING ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
BYBY | Beauty Bakuchiol Booster
Next up in the facial oil rotation is Bakuchiol Booster from UK-based indie brand BYBI Beauty. I first reviewed this particular oil in my blog article titled, Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Anti-Aging Serums from The Inkey List, Herbivore & More!
In it, I declared BYBI’s Bakuchiol option as the simplest of the five formulas I reviewed — and among the most notable of the wave of Bakuchiol products available today. At last count, there were thirteen with Herbivore’s Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Serum the best of them all.
If you’re curious (I know I was!), “BYBI” stands for By Beauty Insiders and was founded just two years ago by “two beauty bloggers, trained formulators and skincare experts who create products based on what we want and what we know doesn’t yet exist.”
That speaks volumes about the brand itself and what they focused on right out of the gate — uniqueness. The brand’s Bakuchiol Booster is certainly unique. It contains just two ingredients, Bakuchiol and Squalane — both of which are, of course, non-fragrant plant oils.
The BYBI Bakuchiol Booster contains one percent Bakuchiol and 99% Squalane. And because I love Squalane, a bio-compatible ingredient already found in our skin, I love this facial oil. It’s light, silky, nourishing, and a pleasure to use.
Like all of the brand’s products, Bakuchiol Booster is 100% natural, vegan and cruelty-free.
But what I may love even more is BYBI’s genuine commitment to sustainability. They dub themselves as “sustainable skincare made in the U.K.”
The brand’s 15-product range is comprised of intriguing products like sustainably-sourced Mega Mist Hyaluronic Acid Facial Spray, a CBD Booster infused with both Hemp Seed Oil and Cannabidiol, and Babe Balm — a 100% natural, vegan multipurpose balm and an “all-round dry skin saviour”.
Bakuchiol Booster has earned its place in my PM regimen. I love its rich, silky texture that doesn’t feel overly greasy or uncomfortable on the skin — as Squalane often does. If you’re looking for a facial oil with some real oomph, this is a terrific option given the proven benefits of Bakuchiol as a “retinol alternative” that helps plump skin and smooth out wrinkles.
SHOP THE BLOG: For a limited time, purchase the BYBI Bakuchiol Booster for $14.28 here.
Kiehl’s | Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Herbal Concentrate (Hemp-Derived)
If BYBI’s Bakuchiol Booster is something its founders determined “doesn’t yet exist,” consider Kiehl’s hemp-derived Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Herbal Concentrate right alongside it. To clarify, and it bears repeating over and over again, the ingredient Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil is not the same thing as Cannabidiol, or CBD. Both are simply different components of the hemp plant.
Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that’s relatively new to the scene. Also known as Hemp Seed Oil, like Sea Buckthorn it’s characterized as one of the best actives for the skin by Ms. Begoun. It’s a terrific nourishing emollient oil that’s also rich in replenishing fatty acids, amino acids and antioxidants. All of which are superb for maintaining and restoring skin health.
Here’s what Paula has to say about this multifaceted active:
“From the hemp plant, Cannabis sativa. Because both hemp and marijuana are from the genus Cannabis, they are often thought (erroneously) to have similar properties. In cosmetics, hemp seed oil is used as an emollient and to supply skin with omega fatty acids it needs to replenish itself and strengthen its surface against moisture loss. Specifically, hemp seed oil contains the omega-3 fatty acid, alpha-linolenic acid, and the omega-6 fatty acid — linoleic acid.
Hemp seed oil also contains beneficial phospholipids, plant sterols, amino acids (it’s especially high in the amino acid arginine) and is a rich source of antioxidant vitamin E.
Another benefit of hemp seed oil is that it seems to enhance the benefits of cannabidiol, also known as CBD. This is likely due to the interaction between trace amounts of cannabinoids in hemp seed oil and pure cannabidiol.”
Kiehl’s Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Herbal Concentrate is by no means a one-hit wonder. There are several beneficial actives in the formula. To start, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil is itself the number one ingredient of just 12, which I presume puts it at about 65-75% of the formula.
At ingredient number three is Vitamin E, a multi-beneficial active that’s both a reliable moisturizer and a potent antioxidant. The goodness continues with common, effective Sunflower Seed Oil.
Regrettably, there are a few drawbacks in the formula with the inclusion of two big skincare no-no’s: Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil and Mentha Piperita Oil, more commonly known as Geranium Oil and Peppermint Oil — one of the worst skin irritants, right up there with the dreaded lavender.
As they say, you can’t let the perfect be the enemy of the good.
This is no perfect oil — but it’s a damn good one. I wouldn’t recommend it for those with truly sensitive or sensitized skin. By sensitized I mean skin that’s inflamed for one reason or the other. My skin can become sensitized when I use a strong Glycolic Acid peel — as was the case this past week with a professional facial.
There’s just something that’s so pleasing about the Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Herbal Concentrate. It’s resides somewhere between a greasy oil and a dry oil. And I love the mildly herbaceous scent.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Kiehl’s Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Herbal Concentrate for $52 here.
Mimouna Botanicals Superfood Recovery Oil
Speaking of Kiehl’s, I first discovered Argan Oil during my copywriting work on the brand nearly ten years ago. Literally no brand on the planet — at least no well-known brand on the planet — had yet featured Argan Oil very prominently. Let alone create an entire collection of skincare products around the now ubiquitous Moroccan nut oil.
But it was Kiehl’s and we did!
Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Argan Body Lotion never seemed to catch on, though it’s still available. It was destined to live a life in the shadow of its superstar older sibling, Kiehl’s iconic Creme de Corps — first introduced in 1967.
But with Argan, we knew we were onto something. In fact, I recall a good friend and colleague at the time joking that “Argan oil is the new olive oil.” While that didn’t sit well with me as an Italian raised on olive oil, the nut oil’s benefits were undeniable.
Like both Sea Buckthorn Oil and Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Argan Oil is classified in Paula’s ingredient glossary as among the best actives for the skin. She says Argan Oil is a “non-fragrant plant oil expressed from the kernels of argan trees. Argan oil contains several beneficial lipids and fatty acids for skin, including oleic acid, palmitic acid, and, especially, linoleic acid. It is also a good source of antioxidant vitamin E (tocopherol) and, like several other plant oils, a source of other antioxidant compounds.”
She does warn against the hype stating that, “argan oil isn’t a miraculous ingredient by any stretch of the imagination. It’s merely a good, emollient, non-fragrant plant oil.”
During our exploration of Argan Oil for the Kiehl’s collection, I recall that it was being sourced from a Moroccan collective of Berber women. So it was particularly striking and poignant to me when Mimouna Botanicals reached out to me for a collaboration.
Mimouna Botanicals is based in Morocco and sources its 100% organic, cold-pressed Argan Oil from the same region. In fact, Mimouna owes its name to a strong Berber woman and leader — the founder’s grandmother, Lala Mimouna, born a century ago.
I love what the brand shares about her. “Growing up a Berber woman was not easy – her options were limited, her destiny was for kitchen-dwelling and child-bearing. BUT Lala Mimouna had an indomitable spirit. She decided from an early age that she would live by her own rules. Three marriages later, she became the village leader for a mountain town 100 km from Fez. Nobody could have predicted the ascendance of this extraordinary woman. But no one – certainly no man – could deny her strength.”
Indeed, Lala Mimouna’s namesake oil is a formidable one with multiple benefits for the skin.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Mimouna Botanicals Superfood Recovery Oil for $23.99 here.
Codex Beauty | Bia Facial Oil
The last of the six facial oils I consider among my favorites comes from the brand that I consider my favorite brand discovery of the year, Codex Beauty.
I’ve blogged about Codex Beauty several times, having included the brand’s Bia collection Day Cream in a recent blog on my Clean, Green Skincare Routine, which you can read here. I also dedicated an entire blog article to the Codex Beauty brand with a full brand immersion and reviews of several of the clean beauty brand’s products.
The Codex Bia Facial Oil is a superb — and I’d venture to say perfect facial oil formulation. Yes, I saved the best for last!
As I said in my original review of the product, Codex really nailed it with the Bia collection Facial Oil.
The Facial Oil formula is a wonderful blend of seven non-fragrant plant oils, including my cherished Rosehip Seed Oil, the first ingredient and thus a substantial amount of the formula.
In addition, Codex included Kiwi Seed Oil, Baobab Seed Oil, Prickly Pear Seed Oil and Almond Oil. Similar to Argan Oil, the oil extracted from almonds “is a rich source of skin-replenishing ingredients including triglycerides and several fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, and myristic among them).” - Paula!
Vitamin E and three botanical extracts round out the Bia Facial Oil’s INCI list.
As you’d expect, the Bia Facial Oil is rich, silky, and elegant. It doesn’t feel overly greasy on skin but it does feel like your skin is being treated to something really healthy and nourishing.
What sets it apart from the other facial oils I’ve reviewed is the fact that it’s so well-rounded.
It’s just a clean, non-toxic, reliably efficient formula that does what it’s supposed to do and nothing it shouldn’t.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Codex Bia Facial Oil for $90 here.
With winter nearly upon is, you’d be wise to find a well-formulated facial oil that suits the needs of your skin right now — and that protects against dryness and dehydration, both of which only make you look older than you should.
🖤 SKINCARMA
**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF MY FAVORITE FACIAL OILS FOR COMBATTING COLD WEATHER - NOW PLAYING ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
The Ingredient List of the Herbivore Phoenix Facial Oil:
emo 0 0-2, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil emo, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil emo, Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Oil aox|emo|h, Coenzyme Q10 aox, Hippophae Rhamnoides L (Sea Buckthorn) Oil aox|emo, Tocopherol (Vitamin E) aox 0-3 0-3, Rosa Damascena (Moroccan Rose) Absolute 
aox|perf|amic, Citrus Aurantium (Neroli) Essential Oil The Ingredient List of the Good Molecules Pure Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil:
The Ingredient List of the Bybi Bakuchiol Booster:
The Ingredient List of the Kiehl’s Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Herbal Concentrate (Hemp-Derived) :
aox 0-3 0-3, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil perf, Origanum Heracleoticum Flower Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil/Sunflower Seed Oil emo 0 0, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, Mentha Piperita Oil / Peppermint Oil perf, Citral perf, Citronellol perf, Geraniol perf, Linalool perf, Limonene perf|solvThe Ingredient List of the Mimouna Botanicals Superfood Recovery Oil:
Argan Oil.
The Ingredient List of the Codex Beauty Bia Collection Facial Oil:
Rosa canina (Rosehip) seed oil, Actinidia chinensis (Kiwi) seed oil, Adansonia digitata (Baobab) seed oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Almond) oil, Opuntia ficus-indica (Prickly pear) seed oil, Hippophae rhamnoides (Sea buckthorn) fruit extract, Fucus serratus (Serrated wrack) extract, Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil, Tocopherol, Myrica gale (Sweet gale) oil, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) leaf extract.
Orpheus always takes his morning vitamins!
