BRANDS I LOVE : BIOEFFECT INNOVATIVE ANTI-AGING SKINCARE WITH EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS (EGF)
I love delving into the heart and soul of a brand. To me, brands are like people. They have character and depth, they’re intriguing, sometimes smart, and they even have integrity — or they don’t.
When I was at Kiehl’s back in the day, I knew I was working for a brand like no other. Beyond the fact that it was by that point more than 150 years old, it had this nerdy quirkiness, rooted in smart apothecary science that I could relate to.
Plus, there was a skeleton named Mr. Bones!
I was a true-blue, stereotypical nerd as a kid. I was studious. I was introverted. I studied Latin every day for four years and studied communism on my own when I got home.
When I wasn’t sitting a mere foot from the television re-watching an episode of Star Trek (yes, the original one with Spock, Dr. McCoy and Captain Kirk!), I was spinning the globe in my room. I would close my eyes and stop the globe with my index finger, imagining what life was like in that country.
Just as the Starship Enterprise explored life on other worlds, I wanted to break free from the confines of my sheltered life and explore my own world here on Earth. I longed to go to far away places like Italy, Russia, South Africa and Iceland. (I’m happy to say that I’ve made it to all of them!)
I love science and the science of skin care!
In high school, my favorite courses were English and Latin — and anything to do with science. In fact, it was my first year of high school when I learned not to be so trusting of everything I’m confronted with in life. I learned to be skeptical. Until that point, I was pretty naive, sheltered in a small Connecticut town just two hours from New York City, yet a world away.
When, on the first day of school, my Earth Science teacher told the entire class that “trees make the wind blow,” I believed him. On the last day of the school year, he reminded us all that we had agreed with that assertion. And then he disclosed that not only was it not true that “trees make the wind blow,” but that it was ridiculous to have believed it in the first place. Even worse, it was outrageous that we had all trusted him implicitly — and had so easily fallen for this deception.
Nikita and I were the cool kids in class at the Bioeffect launch event.
Fast forward a million years and I’m still that nerdy, skeptical linguaphile who’s fascinated by science and the stars. That’s why I can’t get enough, know enough, learn enough about the science of skincare. In my head, I’m living out my very own Star Trek episode on a mission to discover the unknown.
So, I was thrilled a few weeks ago to have the opportunity to meet the founder of one of the most intriguing science-based brands I’ve come across, Bioeffect.
My friend and fellow skincare fanatic, Nikita (@nikitaupadhyay) was in town. In addition to being a skincare afficionado, Nikita is also the published author of the best-selling DIY skincare compendium Roots to Radiance, “a self-care bible to good skin, hair, teeth, nails and, most importantly, to good health.” Who better to take with me to the Bioeffect science class masked as a product launch event for two new products — the Bioeffect EGF Essence and Imprinting Hydrogel Mask.
I’ve been intrigued by the brand’s proprietary science story for years. Bioeffect was founded by three Icelandic scientists who discovered a means of bioengineering a replica of human Epidermal Growth Factors (EGF) from barley, a common cereal grain.
““Epidermal growth factor (EGF) is a single polypeptide of 53 amino acid residues which is involved in the regulation of cell proliferation.” The National Institutes of Health, The Epidermal Growth Factor, May 1995”
What’s EGF?
This is when science gets super cool!
In short, EGF is a protein that’s found in human skin. EGF facilitates inter-cellular communication and stimulates the proliferation, or growth, of different types of cells in the body. It plays an important role in skin regeneration and even in wound healing. While its function in the body is understood, its function in skincare is far more mysterious — though promising.
Here’s what my skincare muse Paula Begoun has to say about the epidermal growth factors:
“In theory, epidermal growth factors (hormones that induce skin-cell production), when applied topically, may trigger repair mechanisms in skin that have become faulty due to age and sun damage (DNA damage caused by sun exposure). However, theory isn’t fact. The problem is, we don’t know for sure which growth factors work best, how much is needed, and whether or not long-term use is safe.”
(Sources: Skin Research and Technology, August 2008, pages 370–375; and The Surgeon, June 2008, pages 172–177).
And with that…
Meet Bioeffect.
In the purity of nature, Bioeffect was born.
Iceland-based Bioeffect was founded in 2010 by three scientists; among them, Dr. Björn Örvar — the gentleman that Nikita and I met at the launch party at 1 Hotel Central Park, “an urban retreat inspired by nature.” Over the course of an hour, Dr. Örvar explained the brand’s unique, ground-breaking science and its unusual ability to repair and strengthen skin to improve overall skin health.
My trip to an Icelandic glacier in 2011 was epic.
Over ten years of research, Bioeffect’s scientists discovered a way to bioengineer EGF from barley and to infuse it into skin care, where it has the ability to boost collagen production and thus ameliorate the effects of collagen loss as a result of chronological aging and UV damage.
Bioeffect’s uniquely pure, plant-based EGF protein is produced from barley grown, of course, in inert volcanic pumice. It is Iceland, after all! The plant is cultivated in an ecologically-engineered greenhouse using geothermal energy and Icelandic water.
It felt like Nikita and I were back in my high school science class together. We listened attentively and hung on every word Dr. Örvar uttered as if we were going to be quizzed on it all later.
Only this time, we were the coolest kids in class!
Did you know that as we age, the body’s production of growth factors declines, leading to a loss of collagen and elastin? It’s that decline that results in visible loss of density and firmness. Increasingly, as skin density is compromised, the surface of the skin sags, folds in on itself. These not-so-subtle folds appear as wrinkles on the skin surface.
By infusing skincare formulations with the barley replica of human EGF protein, Bioeffect formulas are able to enhance and restore skin density so skin appears plump and youthful — to ameliorate some of the decline in collagen levels.
Not to take the mystery out of the science here, but I like to think of it simply — as helping to strengthen the skin. The more you can do to strengthen skin and prevent further damage, the better. Stronger, healthier skin is able to preserve the functions of youthful acting skin and show fewer signs of skin aging.
It’s that simple. No need to over-market or overstate the science. When the science is solid, it speaks for itself. (I learned that from Spock!)
Bioeffect EGF Serum
Of the eight or so Bioeffect products I’ve been testing over the last month, the EGF Serum is by far the most noteworthy. I rarely notice texture if I’m not actually examining or assessing a product’s texture with intent. For the texture of a product to stand out to me on its own is a big deal.
There’s something otherworldly about the silky, oily texture of the EGF Serum. It feels like alien technology — reminiscent of my all-time favorite Skin Aqua UV Milk sunscreen. Both formulas give me the sense that there’s just something vastly different going on here.
Maybe it’s that I’ve never felt human-replica Epidermal Growth Factors before. If that doesn’t sound alien, I don’t know what does!
In the EGF Serum, there are just seven ingredients in all — Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Sodium Hyaluronate, Tromethamine, Sodium Chloride, Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Seed Extract, and EGF (Barley Sh-Oligopeptide-1).
I’ve been using the EGF Serum as part of a nightly Bioeffect regimen in which, as Dr. Örvar instructed, I have dutifully applied all EGF products before moving onto anything else in my routine. This apparently gives the EGF in the formulas — toning mist, EGF Essence, EGF Eye Serum and EGF Serum — the opportunity to be as deeply absorbed into the skin surface as possible, unimpeded.
It’s impossible for me to know if Bioeffect’s EGF-powered regimen is actually thickening my skin. I don’t have the high-tech measuring instruments I’d need to determine that. But I have noticed a change in my skin.
It’s obvious to me that my complexion appears less splotchy and more uniform and even-toned. I don’t know why that is exactly, but the fact that I’ve noticed it is enough for me to know that something is working — and really well.
Bioeffect Daytime Moisturizing Day Cream
The Bioeffect Daytime Moisturizing Day Cream is no where near as impressive and otherworldly as the EGF Serum.
It’s a somewhat lightweight cream that melts right into the skin. I assume its true purpose, whether it’s used in the day or in a night time routine, is to seal in everything that’s applied before it — in the case of Bioeffect, it seals in the powerful Epidermal Growth Factors in the other products.
Honestly, I’m unimpressed with the Daytime moisturizer. While the Barley Seed Extract in the formula can deliver legitimate antioxidant protection, there are no other antioxidants in the formula — IMO a big miss for a product marketed and intended for daytime use. And, where’s the sunscreen?
Significantly, all of the goodness in the formula, including the brand’s proprietary EGF extract and humectant Sodium Hyaluronate — the skin-compatible salt form of Hyaluronic Acid — are at minimal levels. In fact, both Phenoxyethanol and Chlorphenesin, two known sensitive skin irritants are at higher levels. Even worse, is the added fragrance, also higher than the really good, pro-skin health stuff in the formula. As part of the Bioeffect regimen, the cream may make sense, but on its own, it’s a bit of a snooze.
What would I love to see in a Bioeffect “daytime cream”? How about a potent antioxidant moisturizer with a high level of the brand’s antioxidant Barley Extract along with Niacinamide, Vitamin C — and additional protective antioxidant botanical extracts and nourishing plant oils from native Icelandic botanicals. And, of course a blend of mineral sunscreens and Bioeffect’s proprietary EGF protein!
I’ll even name it: EGF + Antioxidant Daytime Moisturizer with native Icelandic Botanical Extracts.
**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF COOL EGF SCIENCE BRAND BIOEFFECT ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
Bioeffect EGF Essence
The Bioeffect EGF Essence is one of the two new products that Nikita and I were among the first to experience. The other was the super cool Imprinting Hydrogel Mask. (More on it in a minute.)
I gotta say I love using the essence.
Sure, it’s super refreshing — as an essence should be. But it’s also an intriguing formulation. In addition to the brand’s EGF extract and, again, the antioxidant Barley Seed Extract, there are two humectant actives at high levels. The first, Glycerin, is as common and effective as it gets. Not so noteworthy, but a true skincare workhorse.
It’s the second humectant that caught my eye: Isopentyldiol. I’ve never heard of it until coming across it in the EGF Essence INCI!
So down a Google rabbit hole I went…
Isopentyldiol is a “fully water-soluble, colorless, odorless humectant liquid ingredient. It behaves as a hydrotrope and provides with emollience along with a dry, non-tacky skin feel.” It’s rated EWG green for safety yet is rarely used in skin care. According to EWG it’s only found in the Estee Lauder Idealist pore-minizing serum and two Tony Moly products.
The EGF Essence also contains Sorbitol which, according to Paula Begoun, is a type of sugar similar to glycerin. What’s more, “its sugar component makes sorbitol an intriguing prebiotic, an ingredient that can ‘feed’ the probiotics that make up a person’s skin microbiome, thus helping it become balanced. Specifically, sorbitol’s breakdown by certain probiotics can create beta-glucan, a skin-calming antioxidant.”
My friend Idris and I chillin in Iceland.
It appears, too, that the combination of Isopentyldiol with Sorbitol helps boosts moisturization in the skin — an often under-appreciated, yet essential part of a healthy skincare routine.
I think Bioffect’s intent here is, in fact, to prep skin for the application of the EGF by effectively restoring hydration levels. Optimally hydrated skin is better able to absorb skincare treatments. A great analogy is to think of two sponges — one wet, one dry. Now imagine soaking up water on the kitchen counter with each. The wet sponge will more quickly absorb the water than the dry sponge. Why? It’s because water molecules attract one another like a magnet. The same goes for the application of skin care! Damp skin will draw in water-based products more quickly — and more deeply — than dry skin.
Bioeffect says that the EGF Essence “enhances EGF efficacy.” I can certainly agree with that assertion. For sure, this one’s a win in my book.
Bioeffect Imprinting Hydrogel Mask
I’m not usually a big fan of hydrogel masks. I know, it sounds crazy to have a strong opinion about a specific type of sheet mask. We’re not talking about big issues like climate change, world hunger, and humankind’s overuse of polluting plastics.
It’s just a sheet mask!
But, the thing is, the bottom part of a hydrogel mask never sticks; it nearly always falling off my face. No, my skin isn’t slick. It’s the stubble! Unless I’ve just shaven that day, there’s just no hope.
In fact, I tried the Imprinting Hydrogel Mask twice — once on a day I had not shaven and again while filming my YouTube video review this past weekend, on a day that I had. (Psst…scroll all the way down to see my mask disaster in the making…be sure to “wait for it!”)
But, as with the hydrogel Bro Masks from my friends at Jaxon Lane, the Bioeffect Imprinting Hydrogel Mask is just too good to pass up. I went for it — even starting with Bioeffect’s EGF Eye Mask Treatment for a Selfcare Sunday power mask treatment!
The Imprinting Mask, interestingly it seems, is the only Bioeffect product that doesn’t contain the brand’s proprietary EGF serum. No matter, it’s loaded up with water-binding humectants to help hyper-hydrate skin, including Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate and Chondrus Crispus Powder — commonly referred to as “sea moss” or red algae.
I ended up leaving this one on for over an hour. My skin was super soft, healthy, hydrated and plump. (And, yes, it stayed on!)
That’s it guys. Thanks for joining me on this journey back in time to my high school science class, to the upper deck of the Starship Enterprise, and to chilly Iceland!
I’m off to explore the world…
🖤 SKINCARMA
**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF COOL EGF SCIENCE BRAND BIOEFFECT ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**
The Ingredient List of the Bioeffect EGF Serum:
Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Sodium Hyaluronate, Tromethamine, Sodium Chloride, Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Seed Extract, Egf (Barley Sh-Oligopeptide-1).
The Ingredient List of the Bioeffect Daytime Moisturizer:
Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, C12-20 Acid Peg-8 Ester, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Carbomber, Dimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium Edta, Fragrance, Sodium Hyaluronate, Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Seed Extract, Egf (Barley Sh-Oligopeptide-1).
The Ingredient List of the Bioeffect EGF Essence:
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Isopentyldiol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Seed Extract, Egf (Barley Sh-Oligopeptide-1).
The Ingredient List of the Bioeffect Imprinting Hydrogel Mask:
Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, C12-20 Acid Peg-8 Ester, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Carbomber, Dimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium Edta, Fragrance, Sodium Hyaluronate, Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Seed Extract, Egf (Barley Sh-Oligopeptide-1).
