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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

THREE FACIAL CLEANSERS I LOVE BUT YOU’VE (PROBABLY) NEVER HEARD OF
I look forward to my self-care Sunday ritual all week long.

I look forward to my self-care Sunday ritual all week long.

If you’ve been following my Skincarma IG page for a while, you know I love nothing more than a good face cleanse. To me, it’s like a religious ritual — a rite reminiscent of a spiritual cleanse.

In fact, that’s the whole point of my “self-care Sunday” IGTV videos! I’m home giving myself up to a deep facial cleansing while others are in church giving themselves up to a deep spiritual cleansing.

But yeah I’m a facial cleanser fanatic. At any point in time, I have in the neighborhood of a dozen or more open cleansers in the shower caddy within reach of the bathroom sink. There are gel cleansers, cream cleansers, cleansing balms and cleansing oils. There’s cleansing waters, cleansing wipes, and cleansing foams. There are at least 3-4 enzymatic powder cleansers in the rotation, too. To me, masks are a separate category and there are probably a dozen of those under the sink — some that cleanse, some that hydrate, even some that seem to do nothing at all!

I love a good enzymatic cleansing powder like this one from Jaxon Lane.

I love a good enzymatic cleansing powder like this one from Jaxon Lane.

I have a running joke with myself (oh sure, Orpheus is probably in on it!) about which cleanser I’ll reach for. It’s a split second, in-the-moment decision — nothing I’m sweating over.

Orpheus always joins me for my morning cleansing ritual.

Orpheus always joins me for my morning cleansing ritual.

There are literally four, sometimes five times a day that I use a facial cleanser. The day’s first cleanse is first thing in the morning — minutes after my feet have touched the floor alongside the bed. Of course, Orpheus gets fed first; then he joins me by the bathroom sink for my early morning ritual.

That first-thing cleanse is a relatively simple one and nearly always involves a cleansing water. I’ve had some variation of the conversation about morning cleansing about 100 times. A lot of people think they don’t need to wash their face in the morning; they’re under the impression that since they hadn’t gone anywhere but bed the night before, they have nothing to wash off.

That makes me nuts.

If you applied skincare the night before, and I assume you have at least applied a moisturizer before bed, then some of that is still on your face. Particles from the air and your pillowcase are embedded in your pores. If you sweat at all during the night, sebum and other residue remains on the surface of your skin in the a.m. Leaving that on your face is nonsensical and, importantly, not the lease bit pro-skin health. So you gotta wash your face in the morning!

Of course, since I’m testing out so much skin care on a regular basis, I come across many niche brands and obscure products that aren’t well-known, if they’re known at all. And that got me thinking one day in the shower. I had reached for this magnificent cleansing powder from Jaxon Lane and thought, “It’s such a shame that hardly anyone knows about this stuff!”

So, I’m here to introduce you to that one — and to two other really cool cleansers that I love but you’ve (probably) never heard of…

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Jaxon Lane “Shake And Wake” Enzyme Powder Face Wash

I’ve said it many times, but hey, I’ll say it again. I’m no fan of physical exfoliation! The sole exception is a cleansing powder — and especially an enzymatic cleansing powder. If you haven’t heard of Jaxon Lane, they’re that cool brand that created the “Bro Mask” for men! Yes, of course skin is skin and a man doesn’t really need a sheet mask made specifically for him. But you know what else a man doesn’t need (or want!)? A sheet mask with a cute little panda bear, a Disney princess, or tiny pink hearts on it.

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So yeah, I love my Bro Masks! And I was super excited to try Jaxon Lane’s new “Shake And Wake” Enzyme Powder Face Wash. I’ve tried dozens of cleansing powders and while they’re nearly always effective, combining a gentle physical and chemical (enzymatic) exfoliating action, they’re rarely fun to use.

Shake and Wake is on another whole level. As with similar powder cleansers and even peeling gels, it contains cellulose — an innocuous plant fiber that functions as a thickening agent to bind other skincare ingredients together. But it can also function as an ultra mild exfoliant that gently sweeps away dead surface skin cells.

As expected, when mixed with water, Shake and Wake transforms into a creamy, velvety and only mildly abrasive scrub.

In addition to cellulose, there are a number of pro-skin health antioxidants in the form of Vitamin B5 (Panthenol), Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), and Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Glucoside). There are also several healthy non-fragrant plant oils.

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Funny, though, my friends at Jaxon Lane missed a beat here in the usage recommendation: “Pour a nickel size amount into hands. Add water and rub hands together to create a foam. Massage onto wet face, avoiding eyes, and rinse off completely. Use daily, morning and night.”

Why? Well, Shake and Wake has a terrific enzymatic action which, to really benefit from, needs to remain on the skin for a few minutes before rinsing off. I like to leave it on for 10 minutes to really benefit from the fruit enzymes in the formula. Those enzymes are derived from papaya (Papain) and pineapple (Bromelain) — the most common enzymatic actives.

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And then there’s the fun part!

I’m not a fan of citrus extracts in skin care any more than I am of harsh scrub particles. The only exception is in a wash off formula, like a cleanser. So while fragrant oils aren’t good for skin, the extract form — in this case Bitter Orange Extract — is far less of a potential irritant. And, again, the product isn’t remaining on the skin for long. The citrus extract is in just the right amount, less than 1% of the formula — but enough to give off a subtle burst of citrusy freshness! It’s just what you want in the morning. Thanks, bro!

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Öko Skincare Purifying Cleanser

I love when a formula smells really herbaceous, even medicinal. I dunno why, but I always have. I get why people are turned off by it, too. But I’m one of those who even loves the pungent taste of oily, inky black, shriveled Portuguese or Greek olives! And black licorice? Mmm.

So, I was enthralled the first time I tried the Purifying Cleanser from the clean, organic spa brand Öko Skincare. Öko is one of those super niche brands that I wish more people knew about. Their founding story is so inspiring and the brand’s non-toxic positioning is spot on.

In fact, this really should get you thinking; it sure got me:

“The average woman uses anywhere from 9-15 personal products a day. If these are conventional products, brimming in synthetics, then just imagine the alarming concentration of chemicals women are exposing themselves to on a daily basis.”

-Öko Skincare

Öko is a clean, organic spa brand made with potent actives for clinical-level results.

Öko is a clean, organic spa brand made with potent actives for clinical-level results.

Of course, the same goes for men. All humans need to be concerned with the level of toxins we allow into our bodies each day — whether it’s through the foods we eat or the products that get absorbed through our skin.

Öko was founded by Kerisa Weir, who was experiencing serious health issues in reaction to chemicals in the skincare she was using. Keri even struggled with treatments at her favorite spa — where they used potent formulas to achieve the kind of clinical results she expected.

But there was one big drawback — the formulas weren’t clean, were high in chemicals and synthetics, and the treatments only exacerbated her skin’s reactivity. That’s a tough pill to swallow, as they say.

So Keri made a clean, organic spa brand with potent actives that could deliver all the same results she wanted for herself — with none of the irritating side effects.

“You deserve to be pampered and enjoy some time all for yourself, without ever worrying about the dizzying array of toxins you may be exposing yourself to.”
- Kerisa Weir, Öko Skincare
Öko was founded by Kerisa Weir, who had struggled with the toxic chemicals in skincare.

Öko was founded by Kerisa Weir, who had struggled with the toxic chemicals in skincare.

Sure, I’ve been on a clean, organic kick lately. In my skin care and in what I eat. Part of it is certainly the recognition that all those tiny amounts of toxic or irritating ingredients like Phenoxyethanol add up, as Öko is drawing attention to. But I’ve also been forced to come to grips with how my body reacts to even the tiniest amount of a particular substance.

I live with daily management of migraines, which are more often than not caused by something I’ve ingested. Even a single sip of coffee will trigger one. That’s obvious. But foods and beverages high in an amino acid called tyramine are also very likely to trigger a migraine in me. High amounts of tyramine are found in fermented foods — like blue cheese, wine and kimchi. Even the white rind of a chili pepper or banana contains migraine-triggering tyramine. So, I have to be hyper aware and practice avoidance of some of the foods that I love most.

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Öko has struck the right balance with products that are not only 100% natural and organic, but are also formulated with concentrated actives like fruit enzymes, AHAs and superfoods. 

The Öko Purifying Cleanser is an incredibly functional, clean and organic cleansing gel. If you’ve ever tried a cleanser rich in the humectants like Glycerin and Aloe Vera, you can imagine how silky the gel-like texture is. It feels rich and pampering — like a spa-level cleanser would.

The formula is infused with a multitude of nourishing, plant-based actives including organic Green Tea Leaf Extract, Sea Kelp Extract and Soapwort Root Extract. It’s packed with antioxidant-rich botanicals, too, that deeply nourish and replenish the skin.

Superfoods include spirulina, chlorella and kelp — a blend that’s rich in vitamins, minerals and amino acids. An algae harvested from warm lakes in Africa and Central and South America, healthy spirulina is a superfood that’s interesting for use in skin care — with its high level of vitamins and minerals considered essential to our overall health.

The Inkey List’s Bakuchiol moisturizer contains 1% Bakuchiol along with nourishing Squalane.

The Inkey List’s Bakuchiol moisturizer contains 1% Bakuchiol along with nourishing Squalane.

Öko Skincare’s Purifying Cleanser doesn’t strip the skin — and couldn’t possibly given its high levels of pro-skin health ingredients. It leaves my skin feeling fresh and soft, like it’s self-care Sunday every time I use it!


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Way of Will Face Cleanser

I know I mention the Indie Beauty Expo that I attended in September quite often. It was literally like being a kid in a candy store for me. I discovered and rediscovered so many amazing indie brands over those two days, among them Ethique, Herbal Dynamics Beauty and, well, Way of Will.

Way of what? Yeah, will.

Way of Will was founded by a guy named Will who believes strongly in the power of aromatherapy to promote health and wellness. He knows all too well the effects that naturally derived scents common in aromatherapy treatments can have on the mind and body.

Have a look at this from the brand:

That cool periwinkle blue hue is faked with dyes.

That cool periwinkle blue hue is faked with dyes.

“The idea for this brand was inspired by my dad when he was very ill and stayed in the hospital for eight months – this happened about a year and a half ago. Cancerous cells spread to his brain, which caused him to be confused and unable to recognize a lot of things around him. Although he couldn’t express himself well, I, my sister and my mom took care of him day and night; trying to stimulate his mind in every way. I started to notice that the only time he would react and show happiness was when he smelled food or other familiar scents around him. It was then that I started to realize how powerful scent could be and started to look into the benefits of scent stimulation.”

Will is also a workout fanatic. Inspired by his dad’s experience with scent, he came to realize that building a brand based on aromatherapy with products for active people, particularly people who work out, was something he could be passionate about. So he created Way of Will, a brand that believes in the health-enhancing power of aromatherapeutic oils.

And since I’ve discovered so many indie brands during my own early morning workouts, Way of Will kind of spoke to me — and to my own passion for wellness and the intersection of health and skin care. I’m not gonna front, though — while meandering the aisles of the Indie Beauty Expo, I was immediately drawn to Way of Will’s functional, masculine, modern apothecary packaging!

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So, Toronto based Way of Will promotes the belief that plant oils are the key to skin health. No joke, WOW formulas are rich in them! Each product is formulated with 100% pure grade essential oils extracted from flowers, barks, stems, leaves, roots, fruits, plants, and resins.

“Oil is a symbol of purity, power, and brotherhood. Historically used in rituals of cleansing and protection, oil is the substance we use to start and end our days with a clean slate.”

Sure, I’m not fond of fragrant plant oils as fragrance isn’t skincare. But, the WOW Face Cleanser is a rich blend of both non-fragrant plant oils and essential oils, including Sweet Orange Oil, Grapefruit Oil, Roman Chamomile Flower Oil and Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil — one of the most versatile and pro-skin health plant oils I’ve come across.

I’ve sniffed it 1,000 times and can’t remember where I’ve smelled it before.

I’ve sniffed it 1,000 times and can’t remember where I’ve smelled it before.

The funny thing about this cleanser is I wasn’t expecting to like it as much as I do. The WOW Face Cleanser is a lot like a conventional cleansing cream — the kind of cleanser I prefer during colder months. Cleansing balms, cleansing oils and cleansing creams are the most comforting as they all infuse skin with the kind of oils it tends to lose in the cold.

As most cream cleansers, it’s very low-foaming. The mild cleansing agent Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate is the formula’s source for the gentle cleansing effect. The substance is derived from coconuts and, interestingly, the key ingredient in the iconic non-soap Dove Beauty Bar.

The Way of Will Face Cleanser bathes skin in nutrients, vitamins and nourishing oils, leaving only a mild, oddly familiar scent on the skin. I’ve sniffed it 1,000 times and can’t seem to recall where I’ve come across it before! Isn’t scent amazing like that?

That’s it guys! I hope you’ll give these three indie brands a look.

🖤 SKINCARMA


**BE SURE TO CATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF MY COMPLETE $175 CLEAN SKINCARE ROUTINE WITH HERBIVORE, THE INKEY LIST, SOLARA SUNCARE & MORE! IT’S ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**


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The Ingredient List of the Jaxon Lane Shake And Wake Enzyme Powder Face Wash:

Microcrystalline Cellulose, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Mannitol, Silica, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Ethylcellulose, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Ascorbyl Glucoside (Vitamin C), Allantoin, Water, Butylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Papain (Papaya Enzyme), Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Bromelain (Pineapple Enzyme), Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit (Sea Buckthorn) Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Opuntia Ficus-Indica (Prickly Pear) Extract, Poncirus Trifoliata (Bitter Orange) Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Fragrance.

The Ingredient List of the Öko Skincare Purifying Cleanser:

Aqua (Water), Glycerin (Vegetable), Decyl Glucoside (sugar surfactant), Aloe barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Extract*, Saponaria officinalis (Soapwort) Root Extract*, Camellia sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract*, Spirulina platensis (Spirulina) Extract*, Chlorella pyrenoidosa (Chlorella) Extract*, Ascophyllum nodosum (Sea Kelp) Extract*, Fucus vesiculosus (Bladderwrack) Extract*, Rosa canina (Rosehips) Fruit Extract*, Morinda citrifolia (Noni) Fruit Extract*, Xanthan Gum, Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) Oil*, Tocopherol (Vitamin E)*, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus, Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract*, Eucalyptus globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil*, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Oil*, Citric Acid.

The Ingredient List of the Way of Will Face Cleanser:

Aqua, Stearic Acid, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Olefin Sulfonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus Sinensis (Sweet Orange) Oil, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Rose Geranium) Oil, Glycerin, Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) Flower Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Panthenol, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinol, L-Ascorbic Acid.

Orpheus and I enjoying our self-care Sunday.

Orpheus and I enjoying our self-care Sunday.

THE YEAR’S BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH THE ORDINARY, CLINIQUE, BEAUTY STAT & MORE!

THE YEAR’S BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH THE ORDINARY, CLINIQUE, BEAUTY STAT & MORE!

A COMPLETE $175 CLEAN SKINCARE ROUTINE WITH HERBIVORE, THE INKEY LIST, SOLARA SUNCARE & MORE!

A COMPLETE $175 CLEAN SKINCARE ROUTINE WITH HERBIVORE, THE INKEY LIST, SOLARA SUNCARE & MORE!